Literally

Then the third and final contribution from Sascha's Azerbaijani adventure. 

He now heads for the south of the country with a report on the thermal springs of Masalli, otherwise known as Istisu.

What to expect?
The wikivoyage  entry on the (nearby) city of Lankaran:

'Istisu Hot Springs.  
Some hot springs (istisu) near east of Lankaran of the same name as the sanatorium further away. Situated in a natural area with oak and iron-wood trees and a small stream'.

goazerbaijan:

'If you are interested in thermal waters, therapeutic lakes, springs and caves, you have to visit Azerbaijan. You can not only relax, but also to improve your health. One of the most famous thermal springs is Istisu health-resort in Lankaran region, in Masalli. Today in Istisu there are several health-resorts, which are aimed at both budget and vip-guests. The first thing you notice upon arrival at Istisu is the smell of sulfur and steam, swirling above the ground. Therapeutic sulfuric water exits the depths of the earth, and its temperature is above 60 degrees.  The composition of natural spring – hydrogen sulfide, sodium chlorine, calcium, magnesium carbonate, and each liter of water contains 30 milligrams of iodine.
...
Hot water from the thermal springs flows into small individual pools or baths, in which one can stay no longer than ten minutes. Meanwhile, the water temperature is not higher than 35-40 degrees'.

Azerbaijan.travel:

'Masalli is known for its mineral springs, the most famous of which is Istisu (literal meaning 'hot water'). This thermal spring appears in several places along the Vilashchay River bank on the Dombal hillside at 1,650 metres above sea level. The water comes out hot (about 69 degrees) from a depth of 90-250 m and is used to treat many diseases. Today, there's a sanitorium called Fatima Zahra, as well as guesthouses, teahouses and other tourist facilities'.

More details from cbt.az:

'Isti su – is one of the therapeutic water of Azerbaijan. It is situated at 13 km distance form Masalli city, on the bank of Vilash river. This water contains hydrogen sulphite, sodium chlorite, magnesium, hydrocarbonate and 30 milligrams of iodine in 1 litre. This water is extracted from 90-250 km depth of the earth at temperature more than 60 degrees. The following diseases can be treated with this water: rheumatism and its complications (arthritis, polyarthritis, joint pains, arthrosis); skin diseases (psariosis, dermatitis, neurodermatitis, fungus, eczema); diseases of kidney and urinary tract (pielitis, uretritis, pielonefritis, pielocystitis); radiculitis; prostate; hypertension; diseases of liver and bile duct; female diseases (metritis, endometritis, erosion of the neck of uterus, herbicide, colpitis); female and male childlessness; gastrointestinal diseases (gastritis, esofogitis, colitis, intestinal defecation); traumatic injuries'.

So quite a bit of info available.

Classic

How about the experience? Sascha:

"In the South of Azerbaijan close to Masalli are several hot springs. 

One of them is part of a sanatorium where I stayed for one night. 

The thermal water is captured and used for small private pools and bathtubs in small houses. In other houses mainly women are offering massage, the accommodation includes 3 meals but the bath and the massage are extra charged. It is advisable not to soak more than 15 minutes per day.

Do not expect the classic soviet style sanatoriums, it is more a couple of houses and huts close by the river on the rocks.

On the other side of the river is a building with other hot springs (see picture below). Here, the water is coming from the source with gas that burns. On the hill is a small field with burning gas that comes out of the ground.

 

The entrance fee is 5 Manat (€2,5).

A system of hot thermal water (45°C) and cold water permits to find the right temperature.

In Isti-Su you are not obliged to stay in the sanatorium (although it is a cheap option to stay), for 1 Manat you can park the car on the main place and walk down either to the bathing rooms or to the river. From there, head to the left and walk up the river. After 300m or 400m you will find natural hot springs that are coming out the rocks. 

Unfortunately, the rain was again too strong that it was impossible to soak inside. I understood that small pools in the river give the possibility for a nice soak".

 

What a bath looks like:

Witness
I've got a couple more experiences to share.
Herderlicemil notes (2014):

'Istisu is a hydrogen-sulfide treatment center. The local people call the water a “miracle”. Hot water of 69o C comes from under the ground here. This water is used to treat problems with joints and muscles, skin, gynecological and other diseases. The local sanatorium has mi­neral water baths as well. The water coming from rocks at Istisu is ice cold. Rich in hydrogen-sulfide, it smells like rotten eggs. It is poured into a glass and drunk in one gulp. There are “kidney water” and “stomach water” signs above the springs. Spring water can heal ulcer and kidney stones. The local treatment center recei­ved the status of a sanatorium in 2007. Due to its subtropical climate, the rate of precipitation in Masalli is higher than elsewhere in the region. Frequent rains make the Talysh forests even more ro­mantic. Istisu forests are 12 km from the center. Istisu is beautiful at any time of the year. In autumn, one can see all colors of na­ture here. There are not many hotels working in this season. To witness the entire beauty of Istisu, it is worth visiting in spring, autumn and winter. There are fewer people and the relatively cool weather makes the local baths very ple­asant. Whereas it is difficult to spend more than three to five minutes in the bathtub in the summer, one can swim for hours when the heat is not oppres­sive. The feeling after an Istisu bath is one of relaxation. If you have wounds or gashes on your body, you can see what wonders the water can work.
In the summer the forest looks different as scores of people come here for treat­ment in July and August.
Istisu is also famous for its waterfalls. They make the place even more gor­geous. Hiding deep inside forests, wa­terfalls make their surroundings a little cooler, which attracts people to picnics'.

An additional experience of the same (?), fizzoflife:

'On the way back, this time downhill to Lankaran, we came across our final treasure of the day, the natural sulphur hot springs at Haftoni settlement. The Istisu (hot water) signs took us up and along ever narrowing rocky dirt tracks for much longer than we expected, so that we were beginning to wonder whether we were hopelessly lost in the woods about to enter Iran, perhaps, when the ‘baths’ suddenly appeared, a collection of small and simple individual bath houses. We had not brought a towel with us but one was soon produced from a washing line. Our friend Karen took off into the woods to take photographs while the lovely husband and I entered our own little bathhouse. There was absolutely nothing fancy about it, I can assure you, and it smelled, well yes, slightly of rotten eggs, but it had a fairly large plunge pool with very hot water, hotter in temperature than a normal bath, say. Here we wallowed for three minutes at a time, then rested on a bench for a further three, three times successively. Sulphur baths are beneficial for all sorts of things, from skin complaints to damaged ligaments and arthritis, and I must admit, I felt a million dollars when I emerged from my bathing session. My asthmatic breathing was much improved and the lovely husband’s painful sprained ankle felt almost healed. This wonderfully therapeutic experience cost AZN3 per head, including the loan of the towel. As an added bonus, we both slept like logs that night'.

Oversight

Hot springs are just one of the many gifts natures gives us to enjoy.

It's weird then that the hot spring of Damasta (or Dhamasta) (Gorgopotamos, Phthiotis, Greece) somehow lies in a very unappealingly terrain. Yin and Yang?

Set between the cliff face of the Kallidromo mountains to the south and the dusty, flat no-man's land towards the main motorway north, it's quite a surprise to find out that these springs are actually quite fantastic.

Parallel to the Athens-Larissa motorway runs a road which serves as a local access road. From the more well-known soak and historically significant landmark of Thermopyles the motorway itself turns sharply to the north (and where one can into the Kallidromo mountains to the south and Delphi beyond). Just in this bend one can head take a turn under the motorway, west towards the villages of Damasta and Iraklia. About 500m up this road a dirt road heads to the scrub covered mountain face. A hundred meters further up this road, the arrival and departure of what seems many a car has created a impromptu parking area.

Beyond this parking area are two pools to be seen. One to your right which seems less appealing and slightly muddy, one to your left (see following photo) which contains rocks and is shaded by greenery from the mountain face. 

Body blows
Which to choose? In either pool, there are already soakers minding their own business. We choose the more natural soak, the one to our left.

Most change next to or in their car, depending on how well one can change quickly or whether or not one believes in bodyshame, we quickly change behind a rock next to the soak itself.

This hot spring is bliss, very clear, nice and warm, I would estimate it to be around 35 degrees.

What's not heaven are vicious blow flies which are in party mood on the scantily clad soakers, yeah! Someone has been thoughtful enough to leave a fly swatter behind, but such is their hunger that despite the setting the soak is terminated a wee bit (too) early.

But the lure of this spring means we revisit this place, this time aware of the blow flies we take the right pool, which is considerably devoid of the beasts.

Slightly hotter, the experience is just as good. Certainly one of the better natural soaks. A plus for non-development.

Illuminated
There's suspiciously little extra info available on internet. The government website Lamia.gr:

'In Dhamasta, close to highway Lamia - Athens are spas Kallidromos (Psoroneria). In the open pool of hot springs, formed, one can enjoy swimming at 33^o C water,  even if you suffer from rheumatism and skin diseases.

The thermal waters of the ancient Greeks they offered to Hercules because they strengthen and heal the body and Hercules represents strength. The Psoroneria like, and baths at Thermopylae were known from antiquity. They believed that the goddess Athena donated to Hercules. Temple dedicated to Hercules was at Thermopylae, as we mentioned by Herodotus and Pausanias. The 2nd century a.C., the Irosis the Atticus had built tanks to use them the inhabitants of the surrounding areas. In contrast, during the Turkish baths were completely neglected'.

There are two problems with this reference: The map is slightly off, it would require a hike into the mountains. And the picture seems not to add up. 

It's then that I discover that this hot spring is part of where I was, just a couple of 100m to the west. It's lot more developed and larger. See following photo:

jazzy_tiligada

#thermal #spring #damasta #centralgreece #bubblebath #hot #33degrees #bubbly #regenerating #skin #bones #strength #relaxing #jazzy #grbloggers #be_unique #crazy_jazzy

From Virtualtourist:

'Damasta SPA is an open little lake near the village Damasta, between Lamia and Thermophiles- on the old road- the water is not so hot like Thermophiles SPA but for sure it deserve a visit. It is an open aria and it can be easy reached all day and night (illuminated aria) their is no entrees fee'. 

Earlier (2014) on this blog, it was reported that these springs were to be developed (source).
Just last month (golamia, May 16) there was a very brief report on this soak being cleaned (by tractor) by the local government for the benefit of 

'... the tens of swimmers who are there every day'.

Έκλεισαν τα ψωρονέρια στην Δαμάστα λόγω καθαρισμού door LAMIASTARGR

No mention of blow flies ...

There's not much more to do in the area, Lamia town is nondescript the delta area could be nice (if accessible) and the Kallidromo mountains pretty barren. 

 
A sight for sore feet 

Carving

Spring bound
The city of Viterbo may be famous for it’s papal stays in the early medieval times, but actually the town should be better known for it’s many hot springs. Fortune has dictated that these hot springs to be mostly freely accessible, nice rambling and non-snobistic affairs, practically unknown to and on the European bathing circuit. So it's no wonder that I want to spend a fair amount of time researching and soaking.

It’s a new day, sun is already out in full force and I’m driving at this delicately early hour, out from the city, northwards, to try a soak at Viterbo’s bad waters or as we are in Italy the Terme del Bagnaccio. It’s not far out of Viterbo, many of Viterbo’s soaks aren’t. At the first crossroads I cross the morning city bound rush hour traffic and with the country side opening up, a km or so along the quieter  SP 7 road (in the direction of Valentano) a small sign leads me to an unpaved white crushed rock road which divides the green grain fields while continuing in southerly direction. 

The only apparent building is a Roman ruin archived under the name of Bacucco or possibly the Terme della Lettighetta. It's not really clear to me and the few websites seem to differ as well. This website (once google translated) adds:

'The Baths of Bacucco, they refer to two detailed drawings of Michelangelo Buonarroti drawings during one of his trips in the area, were probably the most important spa, as shown by the discoveries made during the excavations of 1835. In the area, in addition to the remains of a Roman villa, there are the sources of Bagnaccio, near which was the important Roman resort of Acquae Passeris, reported in Table Peutingeriana, ancient map which included all the Roman military roads'.

The ilbagnaccio.it website claims (or so I interpret the translation) that the existence of the springs dates back to at least the third century B.C.. Thereafter under Roman rule it was known as Aquae passeris, a name used for the wider area surrounding Viterbo (not yet in existence then) where many a hot spring came to surface. 
With Christianity came the end to any organisational bathing and these soaking sites withered away. Though there were plans to modernize  and commercialize these early last century, they never came to fruition and (with one exception) the soaks remained natural and abondoned until 20-25 years ago when a movement of concerned citizens of Viterbo came to conserve and manage the Bagnaccio springs.

Members only

Anyway, just past this ruin and over the gentle rise, one can’t miss the big car park which at this hour is deserted of cars, but packed with camper vans, about 20 or so.

Soaking campervaning

This is the Bagnaccio terme which is managed by a non-profit entity for let’s hope the better of society. The website of ilbagnaccio.it notes that this is a soak on private land managed by Associazione di Promozione Sociale (APS) Il Bagnaccio.

Having done some pre-research, I know an entrance fee is required. Well not technically, it’s a day membership. So loitering around the caravan placed directly net to the entrance, I'm finally rewarded with a suspicious amount of paperwork and a €5 down payment for whatever they legally believe it to be; it's an entrance fee to me.

 Enter

The management team has done it’s best to make soakers feel their contributions are been well spent. There are a number of pools (six apparently) all neatly constructed with wooden walk ways between. Natural vegetation has been kept in check, and there are even changing cubicles as well as some other amenities (toilets, vending machine, picknick area). 

The many campers are already taking in their daily dose of soaking only having to walk (in their bathrobe) from camper van to soaking pool. 

 

The one pool with best temperature waters is moderately packed, but mostly with a silent bunch. The experience has not much more to offer. 
It’s a beauty of a soaking site, it’s a wonder that European soaking sites have turned into over-commercial malls with a soak on the side as compared to this center of bliss. Waters are heavenly warm, hot even and though filling up was taking place, later in the day one can choose a pool to one's liking. The ilbagnaccio.it site notes:

'The waters of the springs Bagnaccio, already known in antiquity as "Aquae Passeris" are a total of type sulfate / bicarbonate / alkaline earthy slightly sulphurous, hyper. They flow at a temperature of about 63 ° C'.

The source itself sits under a wood lid.

Bring your own
Evidence points to the hot springs of Il Bagnaccio being pretty popular. Besides the sizable parking site and the ability to cater for crowds, it's Facebook page has nearly 3,500 likes. Photo sites such as instagram note an encouraging amount of photo's (most soakers are somewhat of an older generation, one to which instagram is something foreign) and tripadvisor has more than 100 reviews.

Despite this popularity, there seems precious little English language experiences to share. 
Why? 
I'm not totaaly sure, but I think that Viterbo is not on the foreign tourist itineray. This conclusion can also be drawn by the fact that despite the more than 100 reviews on tripadvisor (rated no. 6 in Viterbo, 4.5 stars), only 3 are in English while the only other language involved is a solitary review in Spanish. More for Italians?

There is though the odd expansional article on Viterbo and it's hot springs with reference to it being a best-kept secret (Italy Magazine; April 27, 2014):

'Also worth a visit is The Bagnaccio baths, which are positioned 8km northwest of Viterbo; these baths are situated on what was the ancient via Cassia on the road to Montefiascone, and the site is still marked by the Roman ruins of Baccucco'.

Then there is the Guardian (March 9, 2012) which explains:

'One of the joys of the volcanic northern reaches of Lazio is the abundance of hot springs, perfect for a restorative wallow. Some, especially around Viterbo, have been channelled into thermal resorts with a faintly institutional feel, but many rise in open countryside and attract a democratic mix of locals (who see free thermal pools as a basic human right) and adventurous tourists. One of the best is Il Bagnaccio, where pools have been carved out of white clay in a bucolic landscape that can't have changed much since Etruscan times. Bring a towel and claim your corner'. 

Also worth a visit is The Bagnaccio baths, which are positioned 8km northwest of Viterbo; these baths are situated on what was the ancient via Cassia on the road to Montefiascone, and the site is still marked by the Roman ruins of Baccucco. - See more at: http://www.italymagazine.com/news/best-kept-secret-viterbos-thermal-baths#sthash.02NmSfoB.dpuf

Also worth a visit is The Bagnaccio baths, which are positioned 8km northwest of Viterbo; these baths are situated on what was the ancient via Cassia on the road to Montefiascone, and the site is still marked by the Roman ruins of Baccucco. - See more at: http://www.italymagazine.com/news/best-kept-secret-viterbos-thermal-baths#sthash.02NmSfoB.dpuf

Not much more experiences though.

Deregulation
I looked into the background of how management was regulated at Bagnaccio hot spring. As stated above the APS Il Bagnaccio runs the shop, but the ilbagnaccio.it states that the hot spring occurs on private land and that this non-profit organisation run by volunteers manages the soaking site. As part of this management they pursue rule abidance, clean (and refill) the pools every night (pools are open from 07.00-24.00 depending on season), hope to keep site clean and collect membership fees from their members. 
This latter means collecting the annual 2015 membership fee of €40 or as above a daily fee of €5. all to be found on their own website, ilbagnaccio.org with emphasis on the .org ...

That said, there is some controversy on how the site is run. Needless to say, some oversight is required, after all access is good and close to Viterbo / motorway ensures you'll have many a potential visitor. However it's the form in which this management is fulfilled that raises questions. As I have understood ,the city of Viterbo has in the past received permission from the Lazio region to pursue development of it's hot water resources so as to increase the touristic value. However at the time many of the hot springs were on private land, as in this case. The management vehicle chosen seems to be legal, it is though questionable where membership fees can be requested.

From the Corriere di Viterbo (March 5, 2015). If my interpretation of the google translation of this article is more or less correct, it states that Lazio Region officials have warned the Il Bagnaccio (and Terme di San Sisto) managing organisations against requesting entrance fees. The article does advocate some form of management if only to avert less diserable activities but especially on the Terme di San Sisto it alleges that the practice of charging entrance fees has been going on for quite a few years, pandering to more well-heeled and probably well-connected Romans.

Elsewhere management of Il Bagnaccio were notified that certain illegal structures were to be de-assembled (Viterbonews24; May 23, 2014).

There are are quite some rules guiding soaking here, which seem to be the raison d'être of management. Much in line with Italian vogue it seems. these are the most important:

What's not allowed.

 

That said, hoping that patrons toe the line is altogether something separate. Of the above I already managed to take photo's and walked around bare-foot. 

On their website, management have another load of rules, more or less obvious. Strangely whereas in all languages but Italian, there's a call for decency in soaking, Italians are called upon to use swimwear. 

 

Boiled

I wish there were loads to update you on, there isn't. There's scarcely enough recent information for an update. But o so many photo's ....

In the months ahead there will be postings on some Italian hot springs, in and around Viterbo, north of Rome. Well hope that I have enough time, the more research I do, the less time I have to soak ...

In this edition I'd like to ask attention for Sascha's soaks: Sascha has a request. He would like to have some good info on what / where, while seeking to soak in Serbia? Any takers? Just send me an email, I'll forward these to Sascha.

Armenia

Ohhh Gosh...it looks like we will be boiled...hot springs in "a specific standard" in Hangavan without changing room and toilet haha :) the owner allowed us to dress up in the house#hotsprings#hangavan#friends #poland

Source, actually Hankavan.

France

#Natural #termal #relax #free

Prats Balanguer, Languedoc, source.

Greece

See here a nice photo from an in-the-sea-soaking site on the island of Ikaria, permission is required to reproduce .... A destination high on my list of to visit ...

Meanwhile thinkgeoenergy (Feb. 10) report on possible Russian interest in Greek geothermal power generation.

Hungary

A novel concept to introduce Budapests' soaking opportunities to it tourists, with a thermal spa tour. From Budapestbug:

'During the tour we can show you the most famous ones, giving all the informations regarding their history and medical advantages of the water of the springs supplying the pools, then we give you the possiblity the relax in the choosed one just as long as you wish'.

Iceland

Didn't get to see the Golden Circle, but I got to see a random naked dude in a hot spring. Success. He invited @ardemoniia to join him, but she sadly had to turn him down. #Iceland #HotSpring #MissedOppertunity

Just shy of Reykjavik, source.

From Handluggageonly a report on their first day in what they name the land of Fire and Ice: Iceland. 
They actually stay at Laugarvatn Fontana, a smaller version of the Blue Lagoon concept: a wellness center featured on hot springs. The authors go into great lengths to describe and illustrate how hot springs bread is baked.

Co-incidentally (or not) but unlockingkiki also visited the same country of fire and ice. The blog starts off as follows:

'Ask any local what one thing you must do while visiting Iceland and 9 times out of 10 they will tell you, visit a local swimming pool. I say take things up a notch and have a true Icelandic experience with a dip in some toasty warm hot springs that are flowing all over this country!'

It then lists 5 natural soaking places. The comments are more entertaining:

'I did the Secret Lagoon at night as part of the Floating Tour with the hopes of seeing the Northern Lights, but weather was bad aka blizzard :( we weren't able to see the lights but floating in the Secret Lagoon while they played Sigur Ros and having snowflakes coming down was an experience. Can't wait to go back!'

trošku moc pálí

Rekjaladur hot river, one of the five suggestions, source

A letter to Dear Nanna:

I’m heading to Iceland soon and am looking forward to checking out the “swimming pool” culture. Any do’s and don’ts I should be aware of?

Answer:

'Actually yes, a visit to an Icelandic swimming pool is a complex social ritual with three basic tenets'. 

The answer lies in a video.

Italy

naked! #me #pozza #bormio #pozzaleonardodavinci #leonardo #amazing #gopro #goodtime #hero #hero3 #landscape #enjoy #nature #apreski #skiing #nonmale #cool #water #igers #italyigers #italy #freeride #freerideworldtour #follow #followme #post #skiing #top

source

Sascha's soaks

Terme di Casteldoria, Sardinia, Italy

Very hot water comes out of a tub and flows into the river. The water is too hot for taking a shower and when I visited the spot, there was too much water in the river to soak in. Better cross the bridge and go to the little sandy beach where hot water goes into the river. It is kind of “fumarole”, you cannot see the hot water, but the beach is very hot. On one picture [below] you can slightly see the steam coming up. You have to construct on the right place a little hole and add from times to times water from the river. It would be nice spot, but just behind the beach is a very ugly hotel complex, therefore: 

My evaluation: 2 stars (no real soaking possible, ugly hotel behind)

There's more than just what Sascha reports, apparently there's a mud bath nearby, though not often used. Here's the website and for reviews of the hotel, here's the exact location on tripadvisor.

Meanwhile in Saturnia, southern Toscane:

/// Spiritual journey #hotspring #italia #toscany #italy #jodorowsky #waterfall #spiritualjourney

 source

 









Portugal

Feeling so refreshed after soaking for two hours in a 37C hot spring. #açores #azores #portugal #travelporn #caldeiravelha #hotspring #geothermal #naturetrip

source

 









Spain

#Termas #waterhot #Granada #cascada #buendia #me #girl #woman #likethis

Termas of Santa Fe near Granada (Andalucia), source. 

Oh, another (now removed (by Instagram??)) of the Termas de Santa Fe:

#latergram #december2014 💚#letsgetnaked #hotspring #termasdesantafe #santafe #andalusia #spain

Finally this look to be in Spain's Navarra ...:

Drive in toplice/spa!!! #spa #terme #vrelci #narava #nature #honda #indie #jacuzzi #pool #bazen #pivo #beer #leserpentine #mineral #voda #water #civic

source

Smells like mud

Laghetto di Fanghi with the volcano of Vulcano rising beyond

Topping it

Geothermal mud baths are just another universal way of soaking. In the mentioned link, a full overview is presented of most of our globe's geothermal mud baths, most it must be said in Europe. 

If a list would be drawn up with the most popular of the earth's mud baths, included would need to be Japan's Hoyo (Beppu), New Zealand's Rotorua, Calistoga (U.S.A.), St Lucia, Colombia's Volcan del Totuma, Dalyan in Turkey and the Laghetto di Fanghi on the island of Vulcano, Italy.

Named after the Roman god of fire, the island of Vulcano makes up one of the Aeolian islands, tucked in between Sicily's north coast and the mainland of Italy's peninsula.  Roughly sized 15 by 10 km, Vulcano consists of two active volcanoes which were especially active in the latter years of the 19th century, though the island has always been known for it's eruptions.

Happy

Getting here is already part of the adventure and once on the Aeolians one is transponded to another world; a much more peaceful and delicate one.

Vulcano itself is rather sleepy in the beginning of May, but I read that come summer the tourists are out in force and the peace is disturbed by those similar souls seeking solitude. 

Arriving by hydrofoil from my holiday base of Lipari (see the ENSS entry on San Calogero), it's just a 10 minute affair to cross the narrow strait that divides the two bigger Aeolian islands. Whereas Lipari is more bustling, Vulcano is strangely nearly deserted this time of the year.

Another aspect which strikes one when just arriving, is the smell of sulphur, which seems all-present. 

Before setting out to explore the island we take a coffee plus from the cafe adjoining the pier, what a choice of plusses! 

It's best to tackle a hike up the volcano of Vulcano first. Not that it's a really challenging climb but with no shade, a hike up to the crater is not intended as refreshing walk. 

Only an hour away, Vulcano's volcano crater edge.

Overall it's roughly 1 hour from the harbour to the fumaroles on the crater's edge. Up there, some French are busying themselves with measuring all kinds of data.
But most people are happy enough to take in the views of the northern Eolien islands of the nearby Lipari, Salina, Panarea and even the volcanic might of Stomboli.

The muds

After this mostly dusty action, we head back to the pier, as just beyond the pier northwards, is the famous mud bath of Vulcano. Between the harbour and the baths themselves is a small section of fumaroles through once a walk wound itself through; not anymore. Just beyond the slight rise lies the laghetto. The public road runs alongside and semicirculars the little lake. A pole fence ensures that those interested in joining the fun of those seen in the lakes themselves can neatly and orderly enter via the small kiosk which charges a fee of 2 €. 

There is even an official company running the baths, Geoterme Vulcano. Despite most visitors being foreigners, the website is solely in Italian and I need to rely on google for a correct translation.

Geoterme's information sheet:

•  Due to radio-action (radon), no soaking for youngsters (the English translation mentions 15 years as the underlimit, in other languages this is lowered to 12 years!)
• Don't soak midday
• Don't remove the mud

Interesting facts about the mud bath history: the lake has existed for only 30 years, when a small pond was dug. Fumarole's met fluids and the lake has since been enhanced to it's current setting. With the unique combination of brackish waters, liquefied earth and mineralization from the fumaroles, the interaction results in mud with extremely high mineral content.
The mud is supposed to help with joint problems, skin diseases, respiratory diseases. Bathing is suggested to take place before the morning and evening meals, thus also avoiding the intense midday heat; but the soak should not last any longer than 20 minutes and a kür should last 6 days for full benefit, not counting on the two days prior to starting which are required for acclimatization purposes.
Geoterme's site also includes a video.

Soak it

After paying the entrance fee, to your left are just three changing rooms, a wee bit insufficient at meeting the demands for the few visitors that day; if in summer don't imagine you can use them at all! There's also a forlorn toilet, it's actually not clear what the 2 euro buys you other than a tax which falls to the government, lucky man him, Mr Goverment.
Anyway an extra euro buys you a cold shower, one takes a shower after the bath of course (though here´s a hint: it won´t help much). 

If some see a challenge in the lack of changing facilities (shy?), the advice on what to wear is even more daunting. With the facilities open to the views of the wandering public many choose for their flaunting best. Not correct.

Lonely Planet is clear on the subject: 

'Don’t wear your designer swimsuit (you’ll never get the smell out), and be sure to leave your gold chains behind (they will tarnish)'.

Others 

'A word of warning: always warn friends who plan to go there, wear an old swimsuit, one that can be thrown away afterwards, because it will never be the same again'.

Or 

'It’s best not to wear clothes or swimming attire that you want to keep as the smell may linger and the mud could stain'.

Wikitravel though makes it very confusing:

''Swimsuits are not optional here, and it's a good idea to use a suit that you won't be wearing in more conventional settings for a while (and that you can bag in some airtight container after use), as a sulfurous odor will continue to emanate from the suit for some time after you exit the baths'.

The funny part of all this is that, if anything, the bathing costume restricts the mud coming in, but equally restricts the mud getting out. If any advise is needy, is to wear as less as possibly can be achieved / accepted, it's not uncommon for women to wear only their bikini bottoms.

Author lathering up

Anyway, feeling fit for the fumarolisch fanghi, one can walk over the wood walkway towards the pond. The pond itself is never deep. At regular spots one can see (and feel) the heat spring up. On the far side there are even a number of tiny vents just out of the water. Tiny, but strikingly hot. The process is to smear oneself with the mud and then jump into the sea, just 5 m's away.

Surely with this kind of services available, Vulcano must rank as the best of all geothermal mud baths. But the geothermality does not stop here. Jumping in the cold may sea, one can swim a meter or twenty and delite in a jacuzzi like hot spring vent! Wow, surely this must be the best!

Braving the cold sea, note the lighter coloured waters further out

 are where the geothermal springs sprout.

A few rounds of alternating the mud and sea along with some real relaxation in the spring sun and the clock indicates it's time to catch the ferry back.

Souvenirs

Many people complain about the smell of sulphur. For instance, my Rough Guide Sicily states: 

'... one pool containing a thick yellow soup of foul-smelling sulphurous mud, ...

The smell is indescribable, ...'.

Further on it actually dissuades tourists from staying on Vulcano, due to the lack of good accommodation adding

 'even if the lingering smell doesn't put you off'.

Elsewhere it's noted

'Please be aware that the smell of sulphur, a direct characteristic of a trip Vulcano, may be overpowering at times, however this smell is absolutely safe for humans and absolutely non toxic'.

Wikitravel adds:

'Famous for its mud baths, the island literally smells like rotten eggs (sulfur)'.

Surprisingly, the fanghi (or in this case the terme) only rank 8th in tripadvisors overview of things to do on the Aeolians, so maybe it is just not for everyone?. 

Others like myself take a liking to it. 

Opinions differ on how to get rid of the smell, many of the above might just reason that the best way is not to get to the smell at all. Hmmm, not me, 2 months on, my shower towel still smells with a faint whiff of sulphur if I plant my face in it. Ahhhh ..... Vulcano mud baths!

What many do not understand is that the occurence of sulphur increases the health qualities of the water / mud.
The Soaking Life has dedicated a whole blog on the plusses of sulphur: 

'In hot springs, small quantities of sulfur can be absorbed transdermally or inhaled as a mineralized mist to provide relief from a number of conditions:

• Arthritis – when absorbed transdermally, sulfur may alleviate the pain and swelling of osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis and psoriatic arthritis
• Skin conditions -  sulfur eases irritated itchy, reddened, irritated skin and may minimize the symptoms of psoriasis, dermatitis, dandruff, eczema and warts
• Respiratory congestion – when inhaled as a mist, sulfur has a mucolytic effect, clearing mucus from the lungs and facilitating breathing
• Liver disorders – sulfur may assist the liver in its detoxifying functions
• Digestive disorders – sulfur-containing compounds may facilitate digestion and minimize the effects of acid reflux
• Gynecological disorders – sulfurous water has been used to treat disorders of the female reproductive system

Sulfur-rich mud can be applied to the skin to relieve the symptoms of arthritis, rheumatism or psoriasis'.

The parting shot:

'If you have the opportunity to visit a sulfur spring, don’t hold your breath; inhaling sulfur vapors may help you breathe easily. Consult your health-care provider before taking sulfur supplements or adding balneotherapy to your personal treatment program'.

So there.