Saturday, November 30, 2019

Crass

jennyandthejungle at Prats Balaguer, Languedoc (France):
Our secret spot ❄️💦 .
.
.
.
#nature_brilliance#pyrenees#artofvisuals#welivetoexplore#natureaddict
#outdoors#mountainstories#earth_deluxe#instanaturelover#nature_prefection
#allnatureshots#hotsprings#naturelovers#wanderlust#liveauthentic#thecreative
#livefolk#mountainlove#gottalove_a_#instamountain#nature_perfection
#mountainlion#mountains#bainssaintthomas
Winter is upon us. Nearly.
What's topical in Europe's soaking world?
The Guardian (Sep. 26) asked it's readers for tips on Europe's spa's, baths and sauna's:
'Winning tip: Free and easy, Finland
Armed only with a towel, a bundle of firewood (in case stocks had run out), a pack of sausages and some spring water (to drink and throw on the stove), I went one evening with my Swedish friends to the tiny,  do-it-yourself Sompasauna. Built by volunteers, it’s 15 minutes’ walk from the Kalasatama metro in Sompasaari, Helsinki. Free to use, it’s open day and night all year round and kept spotless. There are no lockers, showers or staff, so it’s real back to nature stuff. After enjoying the sauna, we went for a swim in the Gulf of Finland, then had a convivial barbecue with other visitors'.
Tbilisi's sulphur thermal baths gets tipped, as does Tuscany's Saturnia soak. So does Ax les Thermes (Southwest France) and Dona Beija (Sao Miguel, Azores); as well as many other hot spring mentioned in the readers comments.

betybut555 at Termas De Yesa (Navarra, Spain)

A slightly older article from GoNomad though google says November 10, so let's stick with that. It's about coming to terms with foreign habits. Or foreigners getting used to local culture:
'As a Canadian, I’m known, culturally, for living a bit of the frontier life, exploratory, open-minded, opposed to the strictures of tradition and convention, and perhaps just a little bit crass.
However, going to the nude spas in Germany, naked as the majority are, I was surprised to add to that list my own uniquely un-Canadian descriptor, “uptight.”
It seems though, despite bringing Canada into it, it's a more personal take.

michael_loveria showing off culture appropriateness at Austria's Bad Gastein-Felsentherme:
Blackbird FLY! #badgastein #blackbird #tattoo #ass #naked #nude #mountain #austria #wellness #sauna #dayoff #roadtrip #livefree #free
An article in the Guardian (Oct. 13) on the World Aufguss Championship held in the Netherlands:
'It is the final day of the week-long world aufguss championships at Thermen Berendonck, a stunning sauna complex in Wijchen, near Nijmegen, where nearly 100 contenders and 11 European countries compete for medals. Surveying the room, I see friends chatting, couples clasping hands. Some banter and clap. No one avoids eye contact or stares at their feet. This could be any spirited theatre crowd, were it not for the nudity.
...
Britain is not a competing country here and while aufguss might inspire snickering among some buttoned-up Brits, it is part of a booming European industry that intersects wellness with the arts. According to Martijn Vanhoorelbeke, a juror at the aufguss and three-times former Belgian champion, the benefits include not just the detoxifying effects of a sauna but emotional catharsis, too. He regards it as a “total experience” of the senses: “Aufguss does what other kinds of theatre cannot do with the smells [of the oils], the sounds and sights, the feeling of the heat as well as the emotional drama of the story and the effect of all of those things combined.”
We are more vulnerable when we are more exposed, he adds, and so the experience not just bring out physical toxins but “emotions rise up, too.”
A great article, don't forget the comments section: as (nearly) always with the Guardian, they are often more entertaining than the article itself.

merilyten at Santa Fé (Andalucia, Spain):
Vedelesime terve esmaspäevase päeva “SPAs”. Kui pühapäeval oli õhutemperatuur liiga kuum, siis esmaspäeval läks õhk nii külmaks, et kuum vesi oli ainus koht kuhu põgeneda. Aga ega head asja liiga palju ka ei saa ning pidime hüvasti jätma oma lemmik kohaga..Warm water is the best place to escape when the weather gets cold. But now it’s time to move on..
#minueurotripp#thermalsprings#hotsprings#nature#naturespa#spa#purenature
#naturefamily#lossipoisid#jungleboys#jungle
Pioneer
Let's look at more depth of what's happening in each region.
Think GeoEnergy reports (Oct. 20) on developments in eastern Greece:

'As reported from Greece, cheap geothermal energy and heating is coming to Alexandroupolis, a seaside municipality in the east of the country. The green light has been given for the groundbreaking work on this district heating project. After months of litigation, work will begin next and be completed in 18 months. The project implemented by the Municipality of Alexandroupolis has a budget of EUR 6.2 million (USD 6.8m) and is considered pioneering for the whole of Greece, as it gives local communities great development opportunities, while also having positive effects on residents who can afford cheap heating'.
Hopefully it doesn't affect the local hot spring.

Again Think GeoEnergy (a great source of never ending info on geothermal development; alas quite a bit of company news). It looks (Sep. 11) at Bavaria's Erding Therme. Citing and translating a local source:

'For now more than 20 years STEAG New Energies GmbH Erding has supplied the city of Erding with geothermal energy from resources at a depth of 2,350 meters. Today, about one fifth of the total heat demand of Erding can be covered by climate-friendly geothermal energy. The article published yesterday, looks behind the scenes of the geothermal heating plant Erding 2.
The history of Erdinger Erdwärmeversorgung began in 1983, when oil firm Texaco drilled for oil. With heavy equipment the company drilled to ab depth of 2,359 meters into the earth’s surface. No oil was found, but 65 degrees Celsius hot thermal water. The oil company had no interest whatsoever in the water, which resulted in the city and the the larger municipality founding a joint venture to use the “hot gold”, as they call it in 1989.  
...  
Plans were initiated for the local thermal bath Therme Erding in 1994, which then opened in 1999. The bath was planned as there was no second well planned at the time, through which the cooled down water could have been returned into the reservoir below. At the time, it was more economical to treat the thermal water and use it in a spa, almost incidentally a recreational “temple” was created that has made Erding famous around the world. The spa is today by far the largest customer of the joint venture for thermal water and STEAG for geothermal heating.  
...  
With the geothermal heating plants, the city saves almost two-thirds of carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrogen dioxide (NO2) emissions each year ...'.
A sign of the times, Austria's Maibachl flowing in autumn? See below a recent photo:

kaerntnerkrone
Das Maibachl rinnt! Wer war schon baden? ☀️💦.#kaerntnerkrone#krone#kronenzeitung#kaernten#carinthia#villach#villachfeeling
#maibach#maibachl#ausflug#ausflugstipps#kampadanes#nasvetzaizlet
#placetovisit#escapesnaps#wetter#winter#winterinaustria#winter2019
#outdoors#nature#naturesbeauty#scenery#landscape#beautiful
Where are we now? Umm, let's continue with France.
A recent find, Le Trou de Madame. Not far from Dax in France's southwest near the banks of the river Adour, it used to be a thriving thermal establishment. Apparently due to waning interest nothing has been happened in the last 50 years or so. My source further reveals:

'Si l'on prétend que les eaux et boues thermales de Préchacq étaient connues dès l'Antiquité pour leur vertus curatives, les bains ne consistaient, jusqu'au début du XVIIIe siècle, qu'en quelques sources chaudes s'épanchant dans de grands trous remplis d'eau boueuse au milieu d'une belle forêt de chênes des bords de l'Adour.
This website adds:
'L'odeur présente de cette source sulfureuse est très forte,et, assez incommodante ( odeur d’œufs pourris ). L'eau présente est d'environ 30 °C'.
A further find, a website for springs in the area of Les Landes, southwest France; most cool though.

yogaconlilin at Prats Balaguer:
Allò que fa riure als ulls és bo.Del finde 22 i 23 desembre, acampant a la fresca fent de la lluna el nostre sostre.📸 @queralt_aloy gràcies per aquests moments!!
Bliss
Sadly, Lamiacittanews (Sep. 19) notes that September 28 will be celebrated as the fifth anniversary of the Bullicame thermal spring running dry:
'Si invita tutta la cittadinanza a partecipare alla mesta cerimonia, recandosi al capezzale della callara, tenuta in vita da una flebo di accanimento terapeutico, che proviene dal pozzo S. Valentino. Non fiori, ma insistenze e solleciti su chi deve provvedere a sistemare e a fare sistemare il danno provocato'.
Then a report (Sep. 28) on the day itself.
More info on the situation (Lamiacitta, Aug. 2; Lamiacitta, Aug. 30) of Bullicame.

Lamiacitta (Sep. 22) takes a looks at nearby Carletti
'... went for a walk at the Carletti Spa on Strada Terme, where thermalism is free, as it always has been for our fathers. I must say that there were many people. Some soak in the tanks near the spring, and others who were blissfully sunbathing. The trash bins were all emptied, and there was a clear and crystalline air, like only Viterbo and a few other places in Italy, can offer'.
A lot of Sicilian soaks from soakersforum by benjaminstarr:

Gonews.it (Oct. 14) introduces us to a novelty:
'Hundreds of people, originating from the geothermal area or coming from other areas of Tuscany, took part in the twelfth edition of the geothermal Trekking along the beautiful path of natural manifestations "Geothermal and Steam" which leads from the Fumarole Park of Sasso Pisano, in the municipal territory of Castelnuovo Val di Cecina, at the Biancane Park in Monterotondo Marittimo, between the provinces of Pisa and Grosseto.
...
The participants had the opportunity to visit the Enel Green Power geothermal plant "Sasso 2", in Sasso Pisano, and the archaeological excavations of the Etruscan Roman Baths of Bagnone'.
From Rust to Road Trip has updated their list of favorite soaks: a great list of 14 natural soaks. Includes the recent addition of Pozza di Leonardo DaVinci (northern Italy).
Our main incentive for spending a week in the Stelvio National Park amongst the shaded valleys and snow-dusted peaks were the thermal waters of the Pozza di Leonardo DaVinci.⁣Morning and night, we would skirt the narrow concrete bridges and cliffs above the Adda river into the depths of the valley. Opposite the old crumbling Stelvio Pass road we abandoned our clothes to the rocks and sunk into the clear, warm waters beneath the steam.⁣It felt good to be back in a hot spring after so many months without, our skin softened by the minerals and our aches and pains soothed by the heat. It was just as spectacular to bathe beneath the stars as it was with Alpine views, the pool warming us to our very bones.⁣Our time spent in the National Park gave us a chance to explore, to experience the area in-depth, to hike its narrow crumbling paths and shop at the local weekend market. We experienced many facets of Italian Alpine life, the food, the culture and the conversation, and revelled in the harsh, unpredictable landscape.⁣The nights were cold, and the days not much warmer, as we waited for the snow atop the pass to clear so we could continue on our journey…⁣
Strength 
Let's head for central Europe. Starting with Slovakia.
Think GeoEnergy (Sep. 20) has a similar story to the one above on Erding:
'While not being successful in exploration for oil back in the 1960s, the wells drilled then actually turned out to change the village of Podhájske in Slovakia. Finding geothermal water then, was the foundation for a large thermal spa park and greenhouses.
...
The village Podhajska is situated approximately 90 km east of Bratislava in northeast part of Danube basin. The Podhájske Thermal Park features 10 pools with water temperature between 26 and 38°C. The well also provides heat to greenhouses nearby, growing flowers and tomatoes'.

Neobsidimdoma (Dec. 19, last year) with the above picture and the following report. Translated:
'The pre-Christmas season peaks and stress waves are at maximum. You know it: I don't have gifts yet…, you have to clean at home…, you don't recognize the baking dust from the shelf dust…, the gingerbreads don't soften… but simply: stress, panic, nervousness, migraine  I decided to reset my head this year I have a great trip to Liptov. Yes, it's cold outside, the tourist season is also freezing, many attractions are closed, but it doesn't matter if you choose such a beautiful area as Liptov. I chose Pension Mara in Liptovsky Trnovec as the base camp and it was a great choice!
...
This water has 20 degrees and has proven healing effects. Since the outside air temperature was below freezing, the water sensation temperature was higher and I endured the recommended 20 minutes. In the summer months, this hot spring is very popular and often visitors have to wait in rows to bathe. The home people told me that it is best to come at night and enjoy the bath by watching the stars. I think I will certainly try it. There is also a drinking mineral spring Teplica near Kade, I recommend to strengthen after the bath with this medicinal water.
...
Kalameny village is located only 2 kilometers from Lúčok and the spring will be directed by the locals. This spring is much warmer than the spring in Liptovský Ján, the water is approximately 30 degrees. So in winter the feeling of a bath is really warm and you won't want to get out of the water'.
Then Hungary.
A more older article (Feb. 8, 2014), but for me a more recent find. A wild hot spring in Hungary, well sort of. Unique? The discharge of the delicate Heviz hot spring is released into a local stream, which is free to use. Though the article focuses on canoeing in winter. The link to exact location with google reviews including soaking reports.

Travel.usnews (recent, apparently):
'A soak in a thermal bath is a quintessential Budapest experience. (It hasn't cultivated a reputation as the "City of Spas" for nothing.) These baths, or fürdok in Hungarian, are heated by natural thermal springs and usually include on-site massage services, as well as steam rooms.
With more than 100 thermal springs, the various baths around the city cater to different tastes – from relaxation to cures for illness – and some transform into pulsating dance clubs at night, so if you're bathing with your family, you might want to do so during the daylight hours'.
m_a_s_p_i at Srpske Toplice, Republica Srpska, Bosnia:
Wherever you go, no matter what the weather, always bring your own sunshine. #nature #hiking #hotspring #teplypramen #musibyt #withfriends #vodactvojespatny #krizujemebalkan #krizujememapu #dnescestujem
Health
Over to Spain. 
Ynetnews (Oct. 19) presents an article on the hot springs of Ourense (Galacia) and it's Jewish heritage. It basically revolves around the author's visit to Termatalia (Sep. 19 and 20):
'Ourense has also cleverly leveraged its thermal heritage to become the global headquarters of Termatalia, a non-profit organization whose name derives from the Spanish terms Termalismo (thermalism) and Talassoterapia -- thalassotherapy, the therapeutic use of seawater. Termatalia has grown from a small regional organization in 1999 into an international organization encompassing much of Europe and Latin America'.
elena_ni_ta at the natural springs of Prexigueiro, not too far from Ourense:
Encontré a una meiga en el río y me enamore de ella. De su sensual contoneo a la hora de andar, de los susurros al oído de los mantras al cantar, del olor de su cuerpo y la estela que deja al caminar, de su sonrisa, de su sabiduría y de su magia.Gracias amiga, por enseñarme algo tan bonito💜#termasgallegas #termasderibadavia #ribadavia #prexigueiro #ourense #galicia #naturaleza #meiga #magia #contacto #vacaciones #hollidays #remansodepaz #picoftheday
Then some late news from Iceland. 
Famous activist (who uses her body to draw attention (or is it the other way round?)) Marisa Papen has a new calendar on the shelf for 2020 with photo's from Iceland (notably as below Hrunalaug hot spring). She hopes to draw attention to plastic soup:


A Calendar-concept that aims for a healthy future of our planet.
Rough Guides (Sep. 20) finally, has an updated Top 10 soaks on Iceland. It's intro:
'An outdoor soak is an essential part of the Icelandic experience – a surreal way to spend a dark winter's day, or to unkink those muscles after a long day's hiking.In fact, the Icelandic tradition of bathing outdoors in volcanically heated pools dates right back to Viking times. A few of these old pools survive today – often sited in spectacular locations – whilst almost all settlements, however tiny, have installed geothermally heated swimming pools with accompanying hot tubs'.
Nelitko at Fosslaug (I think) 

Monday, November 25, 2019

Disrobe

Found a hot spring in a sheep field!.....#iceland#geothermalpool#geothermalpoolsoficeland#hotsprings#burners
A separate posting on Icelandic soaking and soaking related news.
Let's start with just a couple of mentions of the many intro's to soaking in Iceland.

We12travel (Sep. 24) notices the many hot springs of Iceland:
'When going to Iceland, you can’t miss a visit to a hot spring. Or a hot  pool. Or a hotpot, as the Icelanders call it. I’ve written a couple of posts about the best hot springs in Iceland and they are among the most popular posts on my entire blog. So I figured I’d combine them into one post, making this ultimate guide to the best hot springs in Iceland. Having been to Iceland no less than ten times over the past decade, I think I can say I’ve become quite an expert to all there is to know about hot springs in Iceland. Enjoy!
A Dutch website, hipenhot (Nov. 3) has it's own take on Iceland's hot pools. I counted an impressive 16 soaks in the mix. Translated:
'That's why in this blog everything about hotpools in Iceland! Where can you find them, how is the water heated, what should you think about? I explain it all so that you go to Iceland well prepared'.
jdmerryweather at Landbrotalaug 
West Iceland • We are missing Iceland and all its magic. My mermaid in action!!#westiceland#landbrotalaug#iceland#flanna#mylove#travel#travelphotography #travelphotographer#travelwriter#wanderlust#doyouseewhatisee #notallthosethatwanderarelost#seetheworld#lifeistooshort#shootfilm #leica#nikon#hasselblad#analog#digital#iPhone8 #fujifilmX100F#diana#decisivemoment#oldschool#getlost#jdwashere#chasethedream #magic#picoftheday
Helka (Nov. 7) has a top 10 of best natural soaking spots. Though the list is arbitrary, it contains quite a bit of additional background info.
'While the Blue Lagoon is definitely Iceland’s most famous hot spring, it was actually created by a mistake made by humans, so it’s not exactly natural. We’ve put together a list of the best 10 natural hot springs in Iceland. Explore some of Iceland’s most phenomenal hot springs'.
Lonely Planet (Aug. 20) looks at hot spring fed pools:
'Large or small, rich or poor, every community in Iceland has its own public swimming pool. Here neighbours catch up, children misbehave and the local mayor is confronted about his latest decision. Mix in naturally heated water and some wonderful settings right across the country, and it’s easy to see why a trip to the sundlaug is a great way for visitors to soak up Iceland. 
Here are 10 of Iceland’s best pools, where swimming is only part of the pleasure'.
mastapoul1 at Grettislaug
Tour de l'Islande avec le kuku 🚐💓En 10 jours: 21/01 ➡️ 01/02 🇮🇸 2k19DAY 8 De Grettislaug À Drangsnes 🚘 301kmPetite baignade avant de reprendre la route 😜..#iceland#islande#grettislaug#sourcechaude#hotspot#hotspots#hotsprings
#hotspring#geothermal#naturalhotsprings#piscinenaturelle#paysage#landscape
#cielgris#voyage#roadtrip#trip#hiver#winter#neige#snow#nofilter
#huaweip20pro#p20pro
The worldpursuit (Aug. 23) has the 10 best hot springs of Iceland (possibly):
'There is no way you can travel to Iceland and not experience just a few of the countries best hot springs! Hot springs in Iceland are a right of passage and even the locals regularly use them. Iceland is filled with enough geothermal pools, geothermal spas, and natural hot springs to fill up every day of your Iceland itinerary. This is really only the tip of the Iceberg when it comes to places to soak in Iceland. 
Unless you want to want to get pruney and never dry off you won’t have time for them all. Some of these hot springs in Iceland are popular tourist attractions and a few aren’t much more than a hole in the ground. We’ve broken down some of the best hot springs in Iceland, and no there is no mention of the famous Blue Lagoon'.
Big deal
Icelandin8days has a special on getting naked (Aug. 27) in Iceland:
'Ah, Iceland. Is it really as icy as the name implies? Are those stories about forced nudity in pool showers true? Can I casually walk down the street to a pool shirtless, only to then dip inside completely naked?
Those would be a triple ‘not quite’, but also an indication of a remarkable conundrum around Iceland, its restrictions or lack of on nudity, and how culture plays a major role in when and where you can and can not, should and should not disrobe'.
And then follows the explanation, sort of.

 
Always shower prior to hitting the hotpot. aritzrst:
Si estas a -10 grados no desaproveches una ducha en mitad de la nada.#iceland #islandia #viticrater #hverarönd#husavik #nofilter
#kukucampers#camper #campervan
Sort of on the same topic, Becomingheather has a long hard look (Aug 24) at group showers Icelandic style:
'The swimming pools in Reykjavik are hard core about you showering, naked, before you get in the pool. They tell you when you first pay and enter. Then there are signs everywhere. Finally, an attendant in each locker room keeps an eye out for non-showerers who think they can slip past without being noticed. Nope, there is no way around it. You’ve gotta shower. Naked.
... 
We went to Laugardalslaug half a dozen times on that trip, and I increasingly grew more comfortable with the ordeal of group showers. By the final trip I confidently walked around naked for a good three minutes before hiding behind my towel.
And something else happened. I found I grew more confident when I was wearing clothes, too. 
... 
But walking around surrounded by bodies that looked like mine, not covered up in all of the costumery we use to make ourselves pretty and preened for men (and each other) – bodies that had fat on them, or scars, or evidence of having carried a child, I started to grow more appreciative of my own body. I was there with my daughter, who grew in my belly, which expanded to fit her and give her a cozy place to grow. How could I be upset with the marks that now graced that belly, evidence of its expansion to give life?
I found that by our last time at the pool, I was going in and out like the older women I would see. They would take their clothes off at their locker, and carry their towel – not wear it, but carry it to the side – over to the shower. They wouldn’t stress about how close to the shower they left their towel. They turned the water on, and took a normal shower, washing all their parts the way you would at home. And then they walked back and got their towel, dried off, and put on their swimsuit. No big deal'.
Float
“But, I nearly forgot, you must close your eyes otherwise you won't see anything.”
-Lewis Carroll
A picture of me, by Benjamin
#iceland #instagood #naturegram #exploreiceland #discovericeland #picoftheday #naturephotography #naturelovers #moodygrams #authenticliving #wildliving #photoohtheday #wonderland #discovericeland #exploreiceland #imaginarymagnitude #wilderness #livingfolk #folkandstory #roamtheplanet #waterfall #nature_good #nordicspirit #moodmagic #inspiredbyiceland #hiddeniceland
The more newsworthy articles.
Think GeoEnergy shares (Aug. 6) info on Iceland's newest soaking theater, that of Vök:
'Vök Baths, the newest geothermal destination, and tourist attraction in the East part of Iceland have opened. The destination main landmarks are warm pools that float by the lake’s shore. This beautiful area also includes an outdoor pool bar, a steam bath, and a restaurant. EFLA was responsible for all the engineering design of the facilities.
Vök Baths is located at Lake Urriðavatn about 5 kilometers northwest of Egilsstaðir. Vök Baths harness the geothermal power of the region to create a unique bathing experience with amazing views of the lake and the surrounding area.
One of the main attractions will undoubtedly be the floating pools, which are in the lake. The pools are Iceland’s first floating pools and create a unique experience for visitors'.
Reykjavik Grapevine reports (Jul. 30) on the soaking pipeline:
'A Canadian company has purchased a 51% stake in luxury startup Geothermal Lagoon for 11 million USD, RÚV news reports. The startup will build a geothermal lagoon, at the edge of Kársnes, an industrial area surrounded by a residential neighbourhood.
...
The planned location has sparked some interest. Bathers will have a view of beautiful scenery, “including the ocean, and Bessastaðir, the villa of the President of Iceland.” The president’s offices could not be reached for comment regarding questions wether this would disrupt the president’s morning stretches routine in the gardens of Bessastaðir'.
🌄
Poached
The Reykjavik Grapevine had an article (outdated?) concerning the hot pools of Strandir area; 5 in all, all thermal fed:
'Exploring the swimming pools in the region is an adventure worth tolerating the bumpy road for. There are four of them. Yep, there are four swimming pools, and several hot tubs, for 800 people (well, and a bunch of tourists). What’s perhaps even more surprising is that the pools in the more remote areas are actually far older than the ones in the more populous areas'.
I Heart Reykjavik heads for Reykjadalur and scribbles down all the info required. Or has it just been updated (Nov. 4)?
'The Reykjadalur hike is probably one of Iceland’s best-known hiking trails for a few reasons:
  • It’s close to Reykjavík
  • It’s relatively easy
  • It offers amazing views and geological wonders
  • The reward for the effort of hiking up there is a dip in a cozy and warm geothermal river'.
 
marysue91 at Reykjadalur:
Hot springs at the end of our hike 🙌🏻 #hotsprings #iceland #natureisrad #hiking #mountainlife #swimminginsnow #goodlife #holiyay
Reykjavik Grapevine (Sep. 8) has a slightly different experience in getting to Reykjadalur:
'Eldhestar stables are located near Hveragerði, in the south west of Iceland. The area is well known for the Reykjadalur valley hot springs,  and one of the tours that Eldhestar offers is to ride up to the hot river and take a dip. It’s nothing short of idyllic—the combination of two Icelandic pastimes that are as old as the Vikings.
...
The trail up to the hot springs and hot river is rough and steep and I was amazed at our horses’ sure-footedness on the rocky terrain. We leaned forward in our saddles as we went uphill to make things easier, and admired how they are a natural fit for this landscape and topography. We reached the paddock around midday and from there it was just a short 15 minute hike to the hot river, past ominously bubbling mud springs and the ever-intensifying smell of egg. Reykjadalur is a popular trail these days and on a sunny day in August the river was packed with humans poaching themselves in the warm water. I am used to more bracing experiences of bathing in rivers so it took a while to get used to the bath-like temperatures, but lying in the middle of nowhere, hills rising up on either side, gently lapped by balmy waters—this is something I think I could get used to.
Adventurouskate relates (Oct. 8) the untold concerning soaking in the Blue Lagoon, updating her nearly 8 year old original blog entry:
'And being the most popular destination, there are plenty of guides and how-tos for the Blue Lagoon Iceland. But to be honest, I was surprised by how many things I didn’t know.
 I’ve visited the Iceland Blue Lagoon several times, in different kinds of weather. As you can see by my photos, I’ve seen the Blue Lagoon on a gorgeous day in May; I’ve also visited the Blue Lagoon on a cold and rainy August day. It wasn’t ideal, but it was still worth visiting the Blue Lagoon in the rain'.
What I learnt from the article:
'The water at the Blue Lagoon is not good for your hair. I would especially be cautious if you have natural, curly, or color-treated hair.I thought my curly hair would be okay. Well, after covering my hair in conditioner, twisting it up in a French twist, leaving the conditioner in, and going into the Blue Lagoon, then coming out, rinsing my hair, conditioning it like crazy, and leaving it in again — my hair was destroyed for the next five days. 
Take my advice — even if you condition your hair, don’t let it touch the water. You’re not missing out on much if you don’t'.
From the comments section:
'Hannah 
Thanks for this information! After hearing all this, I might consider skipping the Blue Lagoon on my next trip to Iceland. Though you said that you ultimately enjoyed your time there, it does seem like there are some negatives. Just the fact that you have to get naked is enough to scare me away! 
Loads of comments on the naked showering, as if there's another way to this.

Tradicions islandeses!! Un dels molts tolls termals k et trobes pel camí !#iceland🇮🇸 #islandia#familytrip#travelwithkids____________________________#travel #traveling #vacation #visiting #instatravel #instago #instagood #trip #holiday #photooftheday #fun #travelling #tourism #tourist #instapassport #instatraveling #mytravelgram #travelgram #travelingram #igtravel #hotsprings #aiguatermal
I Heart Reykjavik (Nov. 9) also has a personal look at Iceland's premier pool, the Blue Lagoon:
'I think I’ve mentioned before here on the blog that Icelanders have a bit of a love/hate relationship with the Blue Lagoon. I believe what the locals dislike the most about it is the prices and how they’ve kept creeping up over the last few years. Many locals also remember a time when the Blue Lagoon was a lot more rustic than it is now. They long for the old days when we could enjoy our natural wonders without “paying the white of your eye” as some have put it.
When people ask me about whether the Blue Lagoon is worth visiting, I’m often quite torn about how to answer that question.
...
So my official answer to whether the Blue Lagoon is worth it or not has been that if you feel it is worth it, then it is. As long as you know that the price is high in comparison to other pools and hot springs and you’re OK with paying that premium.
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Until last weekend that is.
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With that in mind, I feel like I need to add a new sentence to my official answer to whether or not the Blue Lagoon is worth it.
If you feel it is worth it, then it is. As long as you know that the price is high in comparison to other pools and hot springs and you’re OK with paying that premium. And you’re OK with the fact that you might be unlucky and get stuck in a changing room that feels more like the inside of a clown car than a spa.
At least now you know and you can adjust your expectations accordingly – saving you the shock I experienced'.
Nightswimming in the volcanic crater. Temperature dropped below zero. Summer is gone. Highlands, Iceland 🇮🇸
Finally, a Polish website, Icestory, headed for Askja. A long entry. At the Viti crater:
'We see a small crater, filled with milky blue, to which a group of tourists walks naked or in costumes. The water is ideal for bathing. Viti owes its name to its fragrance. Thordur tells us that they called him Hell because after you leave the water you stink like Satan. You can actually smell it even on the edge of the crater, and it should be mentioned that it is really high. However, it is not as intense as we expected. The place for it completely exceeds our expectations. We get an hour to celebrate, but we realize that if we had a book, wine and a blanket, we'd probably like to stay here longer.

Thursday, November 21, 2019

Literally

Then the third and final contribution from Sascha's Azerbaijani adventure. 
He now heads for the south of the country with a report on the thermal springs of Masalli, otherwise known as Istisu.

What to expect?
The wikivoyage  entry on the (nearby) city of Lankaran:
'Istisu Hot Springs.  
Some hot springs (istisu) near east of Lankaran of the same name as the sanatorium further away. Situated in a natural area with oak and iron-wood trees and a small stream'.
goazerbaijan:
'If you are interested in thermal waters, therapeutic lakes, springs and caves, you have to visit Azerbaijan. You can not only relax, but also to improve your health. One of the most famous thermal springs is Istisu health-resort in Lankaran region, in Masalli. Today in Istisu there are several health-resorts, which are aimed at both budget and vip-guests. The first thing you notice upon arrival at Istisu is the smell of sulfur and steam, swirling above the ground. Therapeutic sulfuric water exits the depths of the earth, and its temperature is above 60 degrees.  The composition of natural spring – hydrogen sulfide, sodium chlorine, calcium, magnesium carbonate, and each liter of water contains 30 milligrams of iodine.
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Hot water from the thermal springs flows into small individual pools or baths, in which one can stay no longer than ten minutes. Meanwhile, the water temperature is not higher than 35-40 degrees'.
Azerbaijan.travel:
'Masalli is known for its mineral springs, the most famous of which is Istisu (literal meaning 'hot water'). This thermal spring appears in several places along the Vilashchay River bank on the Dombal hillside at 1,650 metres above sea level. The water comes out hot (about 69 degrees) from a depth of 90-250 m and is used to treat many diseases. Today, there's a sanitorium called Fatima Zahra, as well as guesthouses, teahouses and other tourist facilities'.
More details from cbt.az:
'Isti su – is one of the therapeutic water of Azerbaijan. It is situated at 13 km distance form Masalli city, on the bank of Vilash river. This water contains hydrogen sulphite, sodium chlorite, magnesium, hydrocarbonate and 30 milligrams of iodine in 1 litre. This water is extracted from 90-250 km depth of the earth at temperature more than 60 degrees. The following diseases can be treated with this water: rheumatism and its complications (arthritis, polyarthritis, joint pains, arthrosis); skin diseases (psariosis, dermatitis, neurodermatitis, fungus, eczema); diseases of kidney and urinary tract (pielitis, uretritis, pielonefritis, pielocystitis); radiculitis; prostate; hypertension; diseases of liver and bile duct; female diseases (metritis, endometritis, erosion of the neck of uterus, herbicide, colpitis); female and male childlessness; gastrointestinal diseases (gastritis, esofogitis, colitis, intestinal defecation); traumatic injuries'.
So quite a bit of info available.

Classic
How about the experience? Sascha:
"In the South of Azerbaijan close to Masalli are several hot springs. 

One of them is part of a sanatorium where I stayed for one night. 

The thermal water is captured and used for small private pools and bathtubs in small houses. In other houses mainly women are offering massage, the accommodation includes 3 meals but the bath and the massage are extra charged. It is advisable not to soak more than 15 minutes per day.

Do not expect the classic soviet style sanatoriums, it is more a couple of houses and huts close by the river on the rocks.

On the other side of the river is a building with other hot springs (see picture below). Here, the water is coming from the source with gas that burns. On the hill is a small field with burning gas that comes out of the ground.

 

The entrance fee is 5 Manat (€2,5).


A system of hot thermal water (45°C) and cold water permits to find the right temperature.

In Isti-Su you are not obliged to stay in the sanatorium (although it is a cheap option to stay), for 1 Manat you can park the car on the main place and walk down either to the bathing rooms or to the river. From there, head to the left and walk up the river. After 300m or 400m you will find natural hot springs that are coming out the rocks. 

Unfortunately, the rain was again too strong that it was impossible to soak inside. I understood that small pools in the river give the possibility for a nice soak".

 

What a bath looks like:


Witness
I've got a couple more experiences to share.
Herderlicemil notes (2014):
'Istisu is a hydrogen-sulfide treatment center. The local people call the water a “miracle”. Hot water of 69o C comes from under the ground here. This water is used to treat problems with joints and muscles, skin, gynecological and other diseases. The local sanatorium has mi­neral water baths as well. The water coming from rocks at Istisu is ice cold. Rich in hydrogen-sulfide, it smells like rotten eggs. It is poured into a glass and drunk in one gulp. There are “kidney water” and “stomach water” signs above the springs. Spring water can heal ulcer and kidney stones. The local treatment center recei­ved the status of a sanatorium in 2007. Due to its subtropical climate, the rate of precipitation in Masalli is higher than elsewhere in the region. Frequent rains make the Talysh forests even more ro­mantic. Istisu forests are 12 km from the center. Istisu is beautiful at any time of the year. In autumn, one can see all colors of na­ture here. There are not many hotels working in this season. To witness the entire beauty of Istisu, it is worth visiting in spring, autumn and winter. There are fewer people and the relatively cool weather makes the local baths very ple­asant. Whereas it is difficult to spend more than three to five minutes in the bathtub in the summer, one can swim for hours when the heat is not oppres­sive. The feeling after an Istisu bath is one of relaxation. If you have wounds or gashes on your body, you can see what wonders the water can work.
In the summer the forest looks different as scores of people come here for treat­ment in July and August.
Istisu is also famous for its waterfalls. They make the place even more gor­geous. Hiding deep inside forests, wa­terfalls make their surroundings a little cooler, which attracts people to picnics'.
An additional experience of the same (?), fizzoflife:
'On the way back, this time downhill to Lankaran, we came across our final treasure of the day, the natural sulphur hot springs at Haftoni settlement. The Istisu (hot water) signs took us up and along ever narrowing rocky dirt tracks for much longer than we expected, so that we were beginning to wonder whether we were hopelessly lost in the woods about to enter Iran, perhaps, when the ‘baths’ suddenly appeared, a collection of small and simple individual bath houses. We had not brought a towel with us but one was soon produced from a washing line. Our friend Karen took off into the woods to take photographs while the lovely husband and I entered our own little bathhouse. There was absolutely nothing fancy about it, I can assure you, and it smelled, well yes, slightly of rotten eggs, but it had a fairly large plunge pool with very hot water, hotter in temperature than a normal bath, say. Here we wallowed for three minutes at a time, then rested on a bench for a further three, three times successively. Sulphur baths are beneficial for all sorts of things, from skin complaints to damaged ligaments and arthritis, and I must admit, I felt a million dollars when I emerged from my bathing session. My asthmatic breathing was much improved and the lovely husband’s painful sprained ankle felt almost healed. This wonderfully therapeutic experience cost AZN3 per head, including the loan of the towel. As an added bonus, we both slept like logs that night'.