Thursday, July 14, 2022

Pasttime

Et une autre petite source d’eau chaude naturelle à côté de notre logement pour terminer cette journée ensoleillée ! #iceland #landbrotalaug #hotsprings #roadtrip
We don't often focus solely on Iceland, but when we do ..., we realize there's quite a bit to update you on!

Here at European Natural Soaking Society we believe very much in natural soaking. But through the years we've seen this belief expand a bit into soaking culture in general and even spa business sensing that it also has its similarities to soaking. And it can be done naturally, though that may not everybody's cup of tea.

Anyway, despite Iceland having ample opportunities to seek out that natural soak (all you need is a bit of that explorer virus), we are increasingly lead to believe that the hyped up soaking palaces are to be heeded with top - top priority. If anything, to line the pockets of investors; they need their money back. And lots of it too, it seems. 
There's little reason for me to seek these soaks, especially in Iceland where free and natural soaks are always beckoning.
That said, what with newer man-made soaks developing ever faster, Condé Nast Traveller (Jan. 6) has found the need (really?) to publish an article on some of the new and old players in the luxury soaking department:
'As Iceland repeatedly ranks high on lists of happiest countries in the world, it’s safe to say there must be something in the water. And with records of public bathing dating back to the ninth century when settlers first discovered hot springs, it would be sacrilege to not indulge in this national pastime'.
It includes this new to me piece of news:
'Recently, Reykjavik announced plans to invest up to $62 million in upgrades to existing pools including the capital’s largest public pool, Laugardalslaug, as well as the construction of new ones. And as more travelers look to slow down and connect more deeply with the local culture and nature, a slew of new and sustainable outdoor spa experiences are paying homage to Iceland’s bathing traditions—and giving us good reason to plan a pool-hopping road trip in 2022'.

I suspect that once the exclusivity thing might just be wearing off, Iceland will need to ferry in more tourists probably.

naked_pixie naturally in a non-natural setting:
sólarkaffi - Coffee shared by Icelanders on the day the winter sun at last emerges from its long sleep behind the mountains.
There are colors here I have never seen before. In the sky, in the water, in the ice and snow. I breathe it all in. I am inspired.
#iceland #sólarkaffi #nakedinnature #hotsprings #krauma #kraumabaths #stormysky #spaday #bluewater #hotspringsiceland

The Reykjavik Grapevine (May 24) has an article on Iceland's newest soaking sensation:

'The Forest Lagoon, Skógarböðin, officially opened its doors to guests yesterday.
...
It is the newest geothermal spa, located in Vaðlaskógur forest, a couple of minutes’ drive from Akureyri. Tinna said that since it opened yesterday, bookings started to pour in from both international guests as well as locals, booking all the way into the fall'.
Google already has good reviews, averaging 4.8 stars (out of 5). Tripadvisor is yet to notice its existence.
CNN (Feb. 22) also notes this development. Odd, you can report on something yet to open. Snippet:
'"The history of geothermal bathing in Iceland is very interesting," Cela [Hrólfur Karl Cela is one of the lead architects working on Forest Lagoon] said.
"The act of bathing here [In Iceland] is kind of like a public right. This is where meaningful conversations happen, in the hot tub, in the pools. You get people who don't know each other at all, you're all half-naked, so there's no status, you don't know who the other is, and this encourages a more open exchange."
Still concerning the Forest Lagoon, it's existence according to travelawaits (Jan. 30):
'In 2014, crews were digging a tunnel in northern Iceland when they hit on a geothermal source. Even though the previously unknown hot water source halted the tunnel progress, officials decided to put it to use.
The hot water flowing from the Vaolaheioi mountain is now the center of the new Forest Lagoon spa'.

The entertaining TotalIceland (Jun. 29) heads over to Vök Baths on Eastern Iceland. They comment on the owners and the entry costs, even though they are impressed by the place:

'Is all this money worth it?
Yes and no. It is worth it if you have never dipped your body into water heated by natural sources. Then again, if you are on a budget, skip this joint and take a basic shower. Sure, it´s not exactly the same but the warm feeling is, and you will not fill the pockets of disgustingly rich folks back in Reykjavik'.
Would TotalIceland also frown upon the >40€ entrance fee for say the Forest Lagoon? Even though it includes 2 drinks. I see a google review that the drinks are non-alcoholic: it's orange juice or water only.

The Reykjavik Grapevine has an article (Jul. 7) on the delights of Laugarvatn, which seems to end with the (pictured busy) Fontana pool.

TotalIceland (Dec. 4, 2021) educates us in bluish lagoons and on the northern of Iceland's two Blue Lagoons (Myvatn) it concludes:
'But what makes the Northern one better is the fact that it has much grander views from the lagoon over the Myvatn lake and lava area, secondly it is much less expensive, thirdly it is not pretending to be some grand-pampering factory for the rich and lastly, the steam baths here are quite unique for the fact that the steam inside rises directly up from the resource rich ground. Hundred per cent natural'.
The Reykjavik Grapevine (Nov. 8) has a list of ... best sauna's around Iceland's capital. In reality they only tested 5, so hardly a best of.

Swimming Pool Stories will be premiered @skjaldborg_heimildamyndahatid June 2022
Skjaldborg, an Iceland documentary festival announces the premiere of Pool Stories:

'Icelanders have a special connection with hot water and the country's swimming pools play a greater role in public life than is the case in neighboring countries. The pools are not unlike culture in the squares of European cities where people meet and chat over a cup of coffee. Swimmers, however, need to undress, wash themselves and put on swimsuits before going for a swim. After a few swimming trips, people take advantage of the health of the hot water in the hot tubs, relax or chat with their hot tubs, but this tradition can be traced back to the twelfth century'.
Bucketloads
#iceland #visiticeland #hotsprings #nature #relax
The list of recent Icelandic hot spring lists:

Over to a new to me website Tophotsprings. They have a page solely for Icelandic hot pots.

Kimkim has a ultimate guide to Icelandic best hot springs. Sixteen in all, as an intro it could have been worse.

Alwaysaroundtheworld (Mar. 22) has a list of 25 ('best') Icelandic soaking spots
'...to add on your bucket list'.
If you're to add these to your bucket list as well, is your list not getting too long? Isn't your bucket list a summing up of the essential places / things you want to do? Cambridge dictionary:
'a list of the things that a person would like to do or achieve before they die'.
Adding 25 Icelandic hot springs probably won't bring you closer to fulfilling the list wishes.
Back to the article: again not a bad endeavor, good map. And yes a good intro.

Nordical has a feature (listed as 2022/1) on best hot springs and pools of Iceland. On the benefits of soaking (in general):
'Apart from their relaxing and calming effects on the mind and body, bathing in the waters of hot springs certainly has a number of other beneficial properties.
They do wonders on muscle aches. If you have any type of inflammation in your body, be it a bruise or painful tendon, dipping your toes in the warm waters of hot springs will eventually alleviate your pain. In addition, the calcium found its composition helps to increase your flow of oxygen whilst lowering your blood pressure. Last but not least, the sulfur and sodium combined aid with battling skin imperfections, from blemishes to eczema and all in between'.
I counted a list of 22 hot springs, natural and built, old and new. Another good intro.

Les cottages de @hestasport 😍
La différence entre Novembre 2018 et Février 2022 : beaucoup plus de neige ❄️
Les propriétaires sont des anges 🥰
& le spectacle des aurores boréales vu du jacuzzi 🤩🤩🤩
An updated list: an ultimate guide (Jul. 4) to Iceland's best. From Northbound with roughly 20+ listed it also notes the following:
  • Stick to paths
  • Shower on forehand
  • Leave nothing behind
  • Use bathroom before visit.
Are these not obvious then?

Twowanderingsoles (Dec. 21. 2021) have a list of 14 incredible hot springs:
'We consider ourselves hot spring connoisseurs of sorts, and have sought them out all over the world – from the snow-covered mountains in the Pacific Northwest to remote areas of Myanmar.
Personally, we’re huge fans of the free, natural hot springs. The more off-the-beaten-path, the better. Requires a hike to get there? Sign us up!
Sometimes we get a little snobbish about the ultra developed hot spring “resorts” that require a hefty entrance fee. In fact, on our first trip to Iceland, we skipped the Blue Lagoon because we thought it would be “too touristy”. Well, that and we were on an extremely tight budget'.
A very expansive article.

Fludir, Iceland • be cool guys, don't tell anyone I'm naked
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#iceland #icelandtravel #travelphotography #travel #hotsprings #outdoorlife #outdoors #nature #naturephotography
Sadness
And now to experiencing soaking. 
But first heed this. TotalIceland (Feb. 9) yet again:
'These days, in line with huge and growing numbers of tourists to Iceland, the natural order of things is beginning to break down. Sadly, even our tremendously lovely natural hot springs widely found are no exception.
...
It seems the Landmannalaugar hot springs, Lysuholl hot spring and Hveravellir hot springs are not just crowded by tourists but much less desirable visitors too. Considerable fecal contamination was found in all three places and especially where water flow was low'.
I don't know how recent their reference is. At least it's not the first time I've heard of this. You would assume that this would have improved had it been earlier flagged? And with the drop of tourists in recent time?

Triptins (Apr. 28) has all the tips on hiking out to Reykjadalur. I'm surprised why they added this:
'[It is] 70 minutes away from the airport'.
Why is this relevant to the reader? Would you need this info because you're in a hurry? Is flashsoaking something?

It's good to know that if you're taking the trouble to head here, there's an hours walk there, an hour back (so not so convenient for the flash-soakers?). And great soaking available.

HOT RIVER

Monday, July 4, 2022

Culture craze

Globally there are only a few examples of how enjoying a soak in natural hot springs has become a facet of everyday life, becoming a part of it a nation's culture. Japan springs to mind, while Iceland seems to be heading in the same direction what with the many more luxurious bathing establishments opening or on the verge of opening. Though the ease of access (for locals) might not be taken into consideration. So maybe not there yet ...

In recent years, especially in northern Europe where the absence of freely available hot waters or hot waters easily accessible subsurface, enjoying a natural swim has taken a flight. Outdoor swimming. Wild swimming. Winter swimming. Especially cities are looking at ways to encourage swimming.
Other similar to hot-spring-culture encouragement are the existence of smaller public saunas. Continental Europe though has seen a decline in these facilities as larger more luxurious sauna based complexes have elbowed the smaller sites out of the market. Thus giving the sauna visit something more elitist.

However the low threshold saunas are coming back. 
In Ireland we've seen a couple of initiatives of rental saunas, England has followed suit; I'm also familiar with companies in less traditional sauna cultured countries such as Germany, Denmark and Switzerland which offer the same: small scale mobile saunas, adjacent to natural (cool) waters, sometimes complemented by a small hot tub. You rent them privately. Or they organise it for the public to use. Or they compliment festivals.
The Guardian very recently (Jun. 18) had an article on what could Britains next rave:
'In the last two years, “at least 50 ‘new wave’ UK saunas are either already up and running or being built, with many more in various stages of planning”, says the British Sauna Society founder Mika Meskanen. This summer’s festivals are setting up wellness areas with saunas, while author Caitlin Moran called the sauna “the new pub”.
A very Brits oriented article, but it's clear that many of these new saunas are low-cost community based.

Norway's answer offers a new twist. Often very sleekly designed sauna's, that are either moored to a jetty or which can be boated out onto a bay. It's apparently all the rage.
Travelwritersmagazine (Mar. 10, 2021):
'One of the hottest trends in Norway in recent years, architecturally savvy floating saunas offer an unbeatable combination of a hot sauna experience and a more than refreshing dip in a chilly Norwegian lake or fjord'.
Alternate
Now coincidentally I was in Norway not too long ago.
So what would we be talking about? In the town of Kragerø (south Norway) we took the opportunity to enjoy one of these. 
The remaining photos of this blog are of this visit.

I had stumbled across a photo on Instagram of their account which links to their website (Kragerobadstuforening) where besides info there's also an explanation of how to book an hour of sauna fun. Unfortunately in Norwegian, but with translation opportunities it's all quite understandable.
About the organisation:
'Kragerø sauna association is a non-profit association that was established to facilitate local quality bathing for everyone in the entire municipality throughout the year. You become a member by visiting us, and everyone is warmly welcome to contribute and think according to desire and ability. Profits must be returned to the above starting point'.

We booked for a later slot at 9 pm. 

Just head online, book and pay. And then turn up at the allotted time. 
The website ensures there are no more than 12 soakers per hour, so never too busy.
As it was mid-June light or lack of this is a non-issue. 
Located midway up a jetty adjacent to the Gunnarsholmen islet (with small beach), we could already see others jumping from the float into Norway's clear waters. 
We walked the jetty to the sauna. 
There's no explanation, but there's a small 2 persons changing area, a shower (cold) and roughly three quarters of the float is taken up by the sauna, finely blazing. There were two other soakers on the verge of terminating their sauna session. They were taking a boat up the coast for delivery in Oslo and were sheltering while the coastal wind would dissipate, day after tomorrow. What else to do but take a good sauna? 
We were soon joined by someone else, who had just found out how sauna bathing was helping her health. 
Temperature inside was great and I was surprised that the fjord seawater was a nice 17C degrees. 
A great way to pass by an hour or so, with alternating cold sea plunges then back to reheating and sweating.


Trendy
The sauna in Kragero is by no means an abnormality. Now for your Norwegian topography lessons:
  • Kristainsand was inviting offers for similar initiatives (Apr. 4). Translated:
'Now we can get sauna rafts in three places in the municipality. One in the city center, one in Høllen and one east of Otra'.
  • Tonsberg (Tonsbergfjordspa; a for profit operation from an Oslo based group) had boatable saunas, they were trying to add hot tubs to their tubs but their permission seemed to be opposed by locals fearing party like atmosphere. Their Facebook page (May 13): 
'Unfortunately, we were not given the benefit of the doubt by a group of Kaldnes residents and now they have made it their mission to stop us getting permits for the area - which results in the entire city of Tønsberg not having available the awesome, healthy, fun and sustainable activities that we provide'.
  • Melsomvik: not floating, but mobile (source, community funded).
  • Skien-Porsgrunn: a company (Saunaboats) offering floating saunas.
  • Longyearbyen on Svalbard, a floating sauna owned by the port authorities.
  • Drammen has a couple of operators. Elvebadstua and KOK Oslo based as well).
  • Jevnaker, just north of Oslo has a company (Flytfjord sauna) running a single floating sauna.
  • Stavanger: a company (Dampsauna) with mobile and floating saunas for private rent
  • Sandefjord: association still acquiring the floating sauna.
  • FlåmFjordsauna
  • Moss, another town, another floating sauna. See lead photo.
  • The inner city of Oslo harbour is jam packed with floating saunas. Harbourfront redevelopment has encouraged swimming possibilities, so it's no wonder that these also very popular for tourists saunas. These possibilities are very youth oriented. The visitoslo website notes 2 floating saunas as well as the quayside SALT sauna / art / drinking hole. I think I saw at least two other operators downtown.
  • Bergen. Heitsauna has two floating sauna's in the city's center. The company also has sauna's at Akrafjord, Haugesund and Sørfjord.
I suppose the above list can go on forever. For instance Opplevnorge has a list of 17 sauna exceptional sites. But let's just say Norway has got a thing going when it comes to floating / mobile saunas.

Cheating
So, we've established that this sauna thing is catching on (in Norway) and might just be a similar-to-soaking culture, one heading for the Europe's mainstream even? 
 
But then on  a side note: what did surprise me is that where you would expect an absence of clothing to be a non-starter, the impression seems to be opposite. 
What's up here Norway?
Is this because these sauna's are often located in built-up areas? Is it because younger persons / Norwegians are taking a different direction in life? Is social media to be blamed? Is it solely for tourists?

Over at Norway's largest sauna complex, The Well Spa, they believe that promoting what they say continental sauna culture is a good business set-up:
'The Well is built on continental bathing traditions with natural nudity. Natural nudity means being naked there and when it is natural, and many find peace and enjoy the freedom in just this way - to swim naked'.
I spent a day there enjoying all what's on offer (no, no it was research for this blog!), but felt very confused by how they try to promote their ideas. 
Nakedness is essential in the saunas:
'The Well sets the highest standards for hygiene and health, and therefore in saunas and steam baths are not allowed with swimwear'.
And optional while swimming. But not on Tuesdays, when it's all optional. 
Effectively it meant that on Tuesdays you're really standing out if you choose the establishments preferred policies. And you're barred from swimming and saunaing outdoors. So much for good intentions.
It doesn't seem to a good copy of continental (?) sauna culture where enforced naked enjoyment is once more enjoying more popularity (it seems the clothed days are leading to more maintenance / management issues) and the clarity provided means everybody knows what to expect.

I'm not the only one with a case of confusion. On reddit:
'After some wonderful days in Oslo, the missus and I are spending two days at a spa (The Well). With Finnish sauna culture in mind, we expected everyone to be very liberal about their nudity here, even more so than in the Benelux and Germany where going naked is pretty much obligatory in all the spas / wellness centers.
We knew from the website nudity was optional but were very surprised to see we were in the vast minority, with like 90 percent of people wearing bathing suits and thus very much drawing attention to our nudity as something odd and non standard, which is exactly what you don't want when you're naked. Even in the saunas everyone was wearing little towels around their bits'.

I thought this other experience by ghetran (Feb. 19, 2017) shouldn't be withheld:

'Easier said then done, of course, ’cause at 12 o’clock am we’re the only people without a bathing suit! haha! It feels so awkward we almost go back and buy one [not allowed to bring one's own, only company endorsed swimming suits allowed], but then we’re like, oh, come on, you need to take it off at the sauna and in the shower anyway. Except some people don’t, not even there, even though it’s written on walls and so on. So we feel slightly cheated.
Gordana: “I’ve been in Norway for 20 years, so I’m used to showering naked before entering the pool and besides one needs to be naked at the sauna, so I don’t mind that much.” Me: “And I’ve been here for 17 years and I avoid swimming pools and saunas for exactly the same reason, although, between me and you, it’s mostly because I don’t want to see everybody else’s untrimmed bushes and tiny weenies.” We laugh so hard we make waves in the pool, waves that roll over us and crush onto our naked boobs'.
So even Norway's sauna Walhalla fails to provide proof of the pudding. 

Update Nov. 2022: I'd like to apply a figure to The Wells experience. 
Overall it's very luxiourious, very neatly finished. Other pluses were the Banya experience, the big indoor pool. 
On the negatives were beside the unclear clothing optionalities the non-use of outdoor pool and sauna as these were in a clothes obligation zone, the confusing onsen situation (was eventually closed). An 8, or 8+ even?

Fear
But what do others say concerning Norwegian sauna culture?

Fodors has a 10 step guide concerning Oslo's urban saunas (Oct. 5, 2019) and google prefers you read this as part of the research:

'Many saunas have a strict “no swimsuit” rule to limit bacteria brought in by wet bathing suits; guests are asked to use clean towels to cover up instead. Check the protocols of the particular sauna before going—and check in with your own nudity comfort level'.
Hmmm, of the above noted floating saunas, not one had such a strict rule. To the contrary: most assume / presume you going to be in a bathing suit, only the Oslofjordspa is more or less clear:
'CAN I BE NAKED OR GO IN THE SAUNA IN MY UNDERWEAR?
Afraid not! Awim [Swim?] wear is required at all times both inside and outside of the saunas.
I also tried looking up non-English info, because whereas the Norwegians might understand their own culture, others might need an explanation. 
Skigebiedengids in Dutch, turn on google translate for the gist:
'Naakt of met zwembroek in de sauna in Noorwegen
Noorwegen behoort tot de wat preutsere landen als het gaat om bloot. Net als in de andere Scandinavische wintersportlanden zijn er over het algemeen geen gemengde openbare sauna’s. Mannen en vrouwen gaan apart naar de wellness. Alleen in privé-sauna’s kun je gemengd naar de sauna. Maar hotelsauna’s zijn meestal gescheiden en dan nog houden de meeste Noren hun zwembroek in de sauna aan'.

When sauna mixed, Norwegians like to hide behind their swimming trunks (or more).

Der Zeit (23 Dec. 2020) reveals more of the same:

'Neben dänischen gehen auch französische, britische und norwegische Saunabesucher dagegen meist mit Badesachen in eine gemischte Sauna'.


So let's presume that the Norwegian craze of floating saunas everywhere catches on (northern Europe wise), would we suggest that each culture might adapt to their own? Or will we stick to the safe, all the easier to show off social media wise?

Possible answers below?

Sunday, July 3, 2022

Blown

ÍSLAND ganz nah ..
Auch bei uns gab es früher eine Badekultur in warmen Quellen .. wo ist sie hin?
Danke @bagno_popolare 💙
Starting off this line up from Switzerland. 
The above is especially topical. From the town of Baden where besides the free baths, there's now crowd funding action whereby the initiators are seeking to buy an apartment bottom floor with baths and hot spring sources: Rabenbaden.
Then to the southern side of the Alps and another mountainous hot spring from France.

#bagnidicraveggia #terme #onsernone #ticino #italy #craveggia

Llega el día
Y entonces lo sabes
Construye tus alas y vuela 💫
Lugares magicos❤️‍🔥
Treasures

Heading now south and southeast wards, nothing special just some photo's worth sharing.

Из Москвы в Турцию на своей машине. 10 июня 2022 года. Мы едем по Восточной Турции, Турецкому Курдистану. Сворачиваем с трассы, которую постоянно пересекали стада домашних животных, и едем в сторону Bedekli. Я читала, что в местных термальных источниках зимой купаются буйволы. Их мы встретили сразу же. Продолжаем свой путь и видим бассейн с газирующей водой, где купаются женщины и дети. Местные жители направляют нас дальше, где под склоном горы в заболоченной местности образовались водоемы с естественными выходами термальной воды. Видны выходы газа во всех водоемах. На берегу местные жители, курды, танцевали и пели!!! Что еще нужно для счастья? Хорошая компания, термальные источники. #термальныеисточники #термальныеисточникимира #турция #курдистан #thermalsprings #turkey
It can be hard to know what parts of our trip to share or not share but this place was a real treasure. It's cascading waterfalls of hot springs by an old stone mill house. They are the most perfect temperature of any hot springs we've ever been to. They're free and open 24/7. Wanting to avoid crowds, we chose to go at night... And had the place to ourselves! There were maybe three other people there, in another part of the springs so there was not another soul in sight as we enjoyed the water and the stars.. Lilly found her first constellations and shooting stars. While setting down towels on the shore when we arrived, I looked up to see the girls wading in together, holding hands. ♥️
#cascatedelmulino #saturnia #hotsprings #italy

Todo lo que salga del 💜❤️💙
vale siempre el intento, el riesgo y la pena 🤞🏽🤟🏽
Gracias por compartir estos momentos 🇩🇪❤️🇪🇸
#compartiresvivir #relaxing #renovacion #embalsenegratín #termas #bañosdezujar #camperlife #weekendvibes #granadaspain

Gifts
꧁ ᑭᗩᑌᔕᗩᑎIᗩᔕ ꧂
Das Bad des Pausanias... Ob es sich bei dem Bad wirklich um das berühmte Bad des Pausanias handelt, müssen Archäologen in Zukunft noch bestätigen.
Thermalbäder, ein so wundervolles Geschenk der Natur. Zur Zeit ist es in Griechenland grad nicht so warm, umso mehr freue ich mich immer wieder über diese natürlichen Badewannen.
Okay, bei dieser hier wurde nachgeholfen... in 2020 wurde dieses Becken gebaut, in die das warme Wasser läuft... aber gibt es etwas Schöneres, als in warmem Wasser zu liegen und entspannt auf das Meer, die schneebedeckten Berge, die griechischen Inseln und die
zauberhafte Natur zu schauen?
Bei dieser Quelle handelt es sich um eine gashaltige Kohlensäurequelle. Diese erwärmt das Meerwasser auf ungefähr 39 Grad Temperatur und wird mit einer Pumpe in das Becken gefördert.
1 & 2 photos by @lisellevonherzen
#pausanias #thermalquelle #thermalspring #bathofpausanias #peloponnes #methana #greece #griechenland #lovingnatur #badenindernatur #nakedgirl #natural #friends #meer #thankful #berge #inseln #saronischergolf #kohlensäurequelle #kohlensäure #heilbad #heilendequelle #niceview #happyme #stillinlove #travelling #buslife #vanlife #lebenimdüdo #vanlifeeuropesarah.
Two from Greece as parting shots. Disregard the references to colder weather ...

Best thing to do with this cold temperatures of the last weeks: Swimming in 40C hot springs and rivers 🧡 this nature is just mindblowing perfect…
#thermopylae #hotsprings #schwefelquelle #leonidas #greece #incredible #naturelovers #heissequellen