Literally

Then the third and final contribution from Sascha's Azerbaijani adventure. 

He now heads for the south of the country with a report on the thermal springs of Masalli, otherwise known as Istisu.

What to expect?
The wikivoyage  entry on the (nearby) city of Lankaran:

'Istisu Hot Springs.  
Some hot springs (istisu) near east of Lankaran of the same name as the sanatorium further away. Situated in a natural area with oak and iron-wood trees and a small stream'.

goazerbaijan:

'If you are interested in thermal waters, therapeutic lakes, springs and caves, you have to visit Azerbaijan. You can not only relax, but also to improve your health. One of the most famous thermal springs is Istisu health-resort in Lankaran region, in Masalli. Today in Istisu there are several health-resorts, which are aimed at both budget and vip-guests. The first thing you notice upon arrival at Istisu is the smell of sulfur and steam, swirling above the ground. Therapeutic sulfuric water exits the depths of the earth, and its temperature is above 60 degrees.  The composition of natural spring – hydrogen sulfide, sodium chlorine, calcium, magnesium carbonate, and each liter of water contains 30 milligrams of iodine.
...
Hot water from the thermal springs flows into small individual pools or baths, in which one can stay no longer than ten minutes. Meanwhile, the water temperature is not higher than 35-40 degrees'.

Azerbaijan.travel:

'Masalli is known for its mineral springs, the most famous of which is Istisu (literal meaning 'hot water'). This thermal spring appears in several places along the Vilashchay River bank on the Dombal hillside at 1,650 metres above sea level. The water comes out hot (about 69 degrees) from a depth of 90-250 m and is used to treat many diseases. Today, there's a sanitorium called Fatima Zahra, as well as guesthouses, teahouses and other tourist facilities'.

More details from cbt.az:

'Isti su – is one of the therapeutic water of Azerbaijan. It is situated at 13 km distance form Masalli city, on the bank of Vilash river. This water contains hydrogen sulphite, sodium chlorite, magnesium, hydrocarbonate and 30 milligrams of iodine in 1 litre. This water is extracted from 90-250 km depth of the earth at temperature more than 60 degrees. The following diseases can be treated with this water: rheumatism and its complications (arthritis, polyarthritis, joint pains, arthrosis); skin diseases (psariosis, dermatitis, neurodermatitis, fungus, eczema); diseases of kidney and urinary tract (pielitis, uretritis, pielonefritis, pielocystitis); radiculitis; prostate; hypertension; diseases of liver and bile duct; female diseases (metritis, endometritis, erosion of the neck of uterus, herbicide, colpitis); female and male childlessness; gastrointestinal diseases (gastritis, esofogitis, colitis, intestinal defecation); traumatic injuries'.

So quite a bit of info available.

Classic

How about the experience? Sascha:

"In the South of Azerbaijan close to Masalli are several hot springs. 

One of them is part of a sanatorium where I stayed for one night. 

The thermal water is captured and used for small private pools and bathtubs in small houses. In other houses mainly women are offering massage, the accommodation includes 3 meals but the bath and the massage are extra charged. It is advisable not to soak more than 15 minutes per day.

Do not expect the classic soviet style sanatoriums, it is more a couple of houses and huts close by the river on the rocks.

On the other side of the river is a building with other hot springs (see picture below). Here, the water is coming from the source with gas that burns. On the hill is a small field with burning gas that comes out of the ground.

 

The entrance fee is 5 Manat (€2,5).

A system of hot thermal water (45°C) and cold water permits to find the right temperature.

In Isti-Su you are not obliged to stay in the sanatorium (although it is a cheap option to stay), for 1 Manat you can park the car on the main place and walk down either to the bathing rooms or to the river. From there, head to the left and walk up the river. After 300m or 400m you will find natural hot springs that are coming out the rocks. 

Unfortunately, the rain was again too strong that it was impossible to soak inside. I understood that small pools in the river give the possibility for a nice soak".

 

What a bath looks like:

Witness
I've got a couple more experiences to share.
Herderlicemil notes (2014):

'Istisu is a hydrogen-sulfide treatment center. The local people call the water a “miracle”. Hot water of 69o C comes from under the ground here. This water is used to treat problems with joints and muscles, skin, gynecological and other diseases. The local sanatorium has mi­neral water baths as well. The water coming from rocks at Istisu is ice cold. Rich in hydrogen-sulfide, it smells like rotten eggs. It is poured into a glass and drunk in one gulp. There are “kidney water” and “stomach water” signs above the springs. Spring water can heal ulcer and kidney stones. The local treatment center recei­ved the status of a sanatorium in 2007. Due to its subtropical climate, the rate of precipitation in Masalli is higher than elsewhere in the region. Frequent rains make the Talysh forests even more ro­mantic. Istisu forests are 12 km from the center. Istisu is beautiful at any time of the year. In autumn, one can see all colors of na­ture here. There are not many hotels working in this season. To witness the entire beauty of Istisu, it is worth visiting in spring, autumn and winter. There are fewer people and the relatively cool weather makes the local baths very ple­asant. Whereas it is difficult to spend more than three to five minutes in the bathtub in the summer, one can swim for hours when the heat is not oppres­sive. The feeling after an Istisu bath is one of relaxation. If you have wounds or gashes on your body, you can see what wonders the water can work.
In the summer the forest looks different as scores of people come here for treat­ment in July and August.
Istisu is also famous for its waterfalls. They make the place even more gor­geous. Hiding deep inside forests, wa­terfalls make their surroundings a little cooler, which attracts people to picnics'.

An additional experience of the same (?), fizzoflife:

'On the way back, this time downhill to Lankaran, we came across our final treasure of the day, the natural sulphur hot springs at Haftoni settlement. The Istisu (hot water) signs took us up and along ever narrowing rocky dirt tracks for much longer than we expected, so that we were beginning to wonder whether we were hopelessly lost in the woods about to enter Iran, perhaps, when the ‘baths’ suddenly appeared, a collection of small and simple individual bath houses. We had not brought a towel with us but one was soon produced from a washing line. Our friend Karen took off into the woods to take photographs while the lovely husband and I entered our own little bathhouse. There was absolutely nothing fancy about it, I can assure you, and it smelled, well yes, slightly of rotten eggs, but it had a fairly large plunge pool with very hot water, hotter in temperature than a normal bath, say. Here we wallowed for three minutes at a time, then rested on a bench for a further three, three times successively. Sulphur baths are beneficial for all sorts of things, from skin complaints to damaged ligaments and arthritis, and I must admit, I felt a million dollars when I emerged from my bathing session. My asthmatic breathing was much improved and the lovely husband’s painful sprained ankle felt almost healed. This wonderfully therapeutic experience cost AZN3 per head, including the loan of the towel. As an added bonus, we both slept like logs that night'.

Needs

Grettislaug

Following is the second instalment of Sascha's visit to Iceland. 

Whereas the previous posting foussed on the country's southwest, what follows concentrates on 4 soaks accessed from the north.

One of our globes majestical soaks is up first, that in Viti crater's lake which forms part of the Askja caldera. Then it's a great find at the nearby hot spring of Laugarvalladalur.

• Lake Viti 

Lake Viti is a special hot spring in many ways. It is a long but very beautiful way to get there. An offroad car is not only recommended but mandatory, otherwise it is not possible to pass at least two rivers. However, a small Offroader like a Suzuki Jimny or a Dacia Duster are sufficient, no need to hire a big and expensive offroader to go to Lake Viti. The alternative is to book an organized tour (which is not my thing). 

The best is to stay one night at the camping site or the lodges at Drekagil. The facilities are comfortable but be aware, this place can be often crowded. I went there in September which is used to be the beginning of the off-season, but I had the impression to be in high season which means waiting time for preparing your meals in the kitchen, etc. 

Start early in the morning to lake Viti, it is an easy 40 minutes trip by car or a much longer hike from the camping site. After parking your car, a 30 minute walk though a beautiful lava landscape and suddenly the clear blue lake Viti appears, surrounded by snow-covered mountains. The scenery is fantastic, and as usual even more if the sun is shining. The way down to the lake is a bit muddy, but is not a serious problem as long as you don’t come along with flip flops. 

Unfortunately, lake Viti is not really hot, I measured 23°C. Closer to the hot spring on the left side of the lake the water was warmer but never really hot. I read, that there are other hot springs on the bottom of the lake that can be extremely hot, but this seems not to be true, the temperature was almost constant on each part of the lake. Although the water temperature is low, it is definitively worth to go there because of the scenery, the way itself and the unique experience to swim in crater. 

 

My evaluation for Lake Viti: 4 stars (of 5). 

• Laugarvalladalur 

One of the best hot springs I visited during 2 weeks in Iceland. Easy access, but not easy to find. However, Jon Snealand’s “Thermal Pools in Iceland” provides the GPS coordinates. It is quite far to the next town, better bring some food and water with you. As the hot springs are neither located in a national park, nor on private land, wild camping is permitted. Even for Iceland it is rather exceptional to camp close to a perfect hot spring. 

The temperature of the pool is around 40°C, just right to stay longer in the pool, to watch the landscape, to take a hot shower by the waterfall or just to relax. The pool is not a secret, do not expect to be alone, but due to the remote situation the pool is not (yet) overcrowded. 

My evaluation for Laugarvalladalur: 5 stars.

• Vallarlaug 

Further in the north, there is a fantastic hot spring that is definitively recommended. Drive to the town of Varmahlid and ask in the tourist office (that is at the same time gas station and supermarket) for the right way. A friendly German girl will explain you the way but she pointed out that the town wants to avoid mass tourism to the hot spring and this is also the reason why the hot spring is not further described in the hot spring bible for Iceland written by Jon Snaeland.

However, the hot spring is definitively the thing to do in this town. It is located on private land and you have to pass some cattle barriers before walking 10 minutes along the river to reach a beautiful waterfall where the hot spring is situated. Ok, there are waterfalls in the South that are more stunning, but this one has clear blue water and there is a chance that you are alone. The pool is completely natural with a temperature of around 42°C, perfect for bathing and switching over into the cold river. The bottom of the pool is muddy and camping is of course forbidden (2 camping sites exist in town). 

My evaluation for Vallarlaug: 5 stars. 

• Grettislaug 

More popular than Vallarlaug, but also great because two pools with different temperatures are waiting directly at the seaside. You are requested to pay an entrance fee (1000 krona per adult). From Saudakrokur, you need to drive 14 km to Grettislaug, the way is well described. At the location, there is also a beautiful camping site with seaview and a bar. 

The small pool has a temperature of 41°C. The bigger pool of 44°C is rather for serious soakers…Both pools have a gravel bottom. If the weather is beautiful (like it was during my visit), Grettislaug is a place worth to stay the whole day and meet people from the whole world (mainly Canadians, Germans and British when I was there). 

My evaluation for Grettislaug: 4 stars

Mythical

There's little to add to the previous European Natural Soaking Society entry on Kamena Vourla and the local hot spring of Koniavitis.

That's if one failed to continue onwards from the Koniavitis spring along the same road (north) for another couple of hundred meters. 
There along the road side are another couple of pools, two changing cubicles and beyond the cubicles another

What transpires is that this location houses two separate hot springs, the southern most tubs are the named Kallyntika / Kallintika. Which translates as cosmetic. Cosmetic what?   
While the northern most heart shaped tub is referred to as Aphrodite (source: KamenaVourla.gr).

The greektraveller delves this bit of info:

'The thermal radio-springs [of Kamena Vourla] were known to the ancient Greeks; even a sulfur spring was named after Aphrodite because in Greek mythology the goddess took her cosmetic baths there'.

Hmmm, anyway there are two springs, convenient. There were also two nice ladies enjoying the cement hot pools, apparently the cosmetic named refers to the qualities attributed to the spring: more popular for women apparently.

The heart shaped Aphrodite pool lacked any bathers so I started off testing the soaking here. It was coolish. I read somewhere just 26 degrees which possibly doesn't qualify it as a hot spring.

Much to the delight of my fellow soakers in the cosmetic pool, I joined them. They were much enthused to host a tourist and one who looked like a German even though I insisted to hail from the Netherlands. How weird. They also overemphazied their love for Ms. Merkel, don't know what to think of that.  

Anyway this pool was somewhat warmer, did I read it was 32 , still not very hot. 

Out on internet other than mentioned before there's very little to add. 

Before the void

Go west

It seems my quest to seek those natural and naturally soakable hot springs in Europe leads me to the very fringes of what constitutes the European continent. It's simply that the closer to the edge the more natural conditions are (still) available.
And it's no doubt that the Azorean islands of Portugal are yet again on this very fringe of the Euro continent. 

Geologists may even argue that the Azores are not (wholly) part of this Euro continent, as they lie on the point of where the European, African and American tectonic plates meet with some of the islands lying on different plates than other islands (source).

However, geographically and more notably socio-culturally they are distinctly European.

The offshore Termas da Ferraria are themselves just on the fringe (or even beyond thiss) as they lie off the most densely inhabited Azorean island of São Miguel, at it's most western point. 

So the western most soak of Europe? 

Alas. More searching on internet has revealed that there are still two other hot springs further westwards: Carapacho on the Azorean island of Graciosa (source) and Aqua Quente on the western coast of the Flores. And thus this must be Europe's most western most soak (source).

One would believe that a hot spring that feeds in to the sea just offshore may well be an extraordinary natural phenomena; again a disappointment. 

Even on the Sao Miguel, decidedly eastwards, the beach waters of Ribeira Quente (Praia de Fogo: Fire Beach) are rumored to be more mild. Here offshore heat vents manage to warm the sea temperature with a degree or two.

Elsewhere in Europe I have had an experience on the island of Vulcano, there's one on the southern Italian island of Pantelleria, Iceland has at least a couple near the shoreline, while in Greece there are also a couple in existence (Santorini for instance). 

On global scale there are even more of course. Off the top of my head, there's Stinson beach in California, Hot water beach in New Zealand (as well as a hot water beach near Kawhia), Japan has a few, as does Indonesia. 

Probably quite common thus.

 

On the edge
However the location of Termas da Ferraria does it's best to literally suggest you are on the verge of infinity. 

The Termas da Ferraria arejust a few kilometers from the village of Ginetes. Ginetes lies between verdant rolling hills and where these stop (at a lighthouse, see photo above) there's a sudden drop 100-150m down to sea level where there's a small promontory jutting out westwards into the Atlantic. 

Look further west: there's only ocean (even though there are still a few Azorean islands just beyond the horizon). 

Such are the views from above that local authorities have gone out of their way to construct a parking space to enable viewing of this infinity.

Having been forewarned, we're not willing to find out whether or not our rental car will make the return uphill (it should have), so we park the car at the parking space here (did I mention that it's named Miradouro da Ilha Sabrina?) and walk down the four or five switchbacks, 100m lower. 

Below is a another car park; this is nearly deserted. 

The two cars must belong to Termas maintenance staff. From the viewpoint above I could see that beyond the main building, there were two men cleaning the empty pool. 

The termas building, next to the car park, is itself in lock up: Monday and Tuesdays are no soaking days apparently.

Grab the day

Battling the winds we take the path to the south of the promontory. This path continues slightly over a rise between lava rocks and a pseudo crater. 

Beyond the rise there are a few buildings off to the left: a reception of sorts and some changing rooms I suspect. 
I didn't think the distance upcoming (100m?), combined with the prevalent weather condition would be conducive to encouraging a soak by continuing the path towardss a soak half naked. That's if a soak was to be had.  So I skipped the changing rooms / amenities. Let's see.

Waves are crashing on the edge of the rocks and in and over the inlet which supposes to contain the hot spring. 

Stated temperatures (below) should promise a nice to rather nice soaking experience. Note the waves?

Spring temperature: ~61.8°C

Sea water temperature ~18.0°C (high tide)*,
Sea water temperature ~28.1°C (low tide)* 

(*): May 2006

As I hadn't stripped yet, there was still a moment to contemplate the consequences of my upcoming actions. 

I had thought that it was low tide, but maybe I was mistaken. Waves were chunneling through, it looked decidedly rocky. What to do? 

Then again it looked like an experience to be had. There was no way able to discern whether or not the temps might be hospitable. The only one way to find out was to brave it!

As no one is around, I skipped the changing part, rather jumping in au naturel (only now do I realize that I may well be one of the few who have done this, all photo's available on internet are of suited soakers! Portugal is a little more conservative !?). 

I descend the stairs and let myself get dragged around by the waves. Something reminds me of a washing machine.

Immediately I am catching my breath as the temperature has not warmed since I had an early morning dip in the more placid ocean in front of our apartment elders on the island. Waves come crashing in, 1-2 meters high and then it makes sense to hold on to the wires which have been drawn across the inlet. 

I nudge back to the end of the inlet and yes there I do feel the odd hot flash or two. 

Well, this was a not a soak meant for proving longevity, at least not now. So after a couple of minutes I time the waves and numbly clamber back onto dry land. 

I dress and then we retrace our steps, noting that despite the maintenance men on site, there's an eerily sense of end-of-the-worldness here. And a personal sense of achievement.

Saudade

Despite the lack of other soakers on our visit, the Termas da Ferraria (sometimes referred to as Ponte da Ferraria) does see quite a few visitors. Evidenced by tripadvisor. 

Based on no less than 147 reviews it ranks the Termas as number 15 (out of a possible 75) in it's list of outdoor attractions on the island of São Miguel, with many a reviewer giving it high marks. 

Wade through these reviews though and it's obvious that the natural experience is what makes it attractive. 

Not too many reviewers are happy with the restaurant / paid hot pool, though most also have no experience of these to share: they are there for the free inlet fun. 

The official website of Termas da Ferraria has a little more info on the natural surroundings and mentions that it has been used / discovered since a number of centuries ago:

'Termas da Ferraria started in the mid XX century, but the qualities of its waters were quote four centuries ago by Gaspar Frutuoso in its [his] book “Saudades da Terra”(“Homesick of the land”)'. 

The current structure is built largely on the foundations already existing (1950's, above?) and the reconstruction was finished in 2010. 

A photo of the previous building can be found here. 

More on the re-construction events can be found here.

The Termas also maintains a well-updated Facebook page.

Basically the Termas has a wellness program (besides outdoor bath there's also an indoor bath and a sauna), which currently has a price structure of 35€, plus for any massage treatments. 

Simple use of the outdoor pool (below) is 5€.

Funny is that their guestbook is a bit short, contrasts with the findings of tripadvisor and it also has no dates of reference.

The official website also fails to note the opportunity to use the thermal inlet for free ....

Continuing, it missed the following from Acoriano Oriental (July 7, 2015) as well. The newspaper article notes recent complaints of neglect access places to the natural features as worded by a local counciler ... I couldn't agree with this, maybe since improved?

There's little additional to mention in regards to the experience itself, seemingly there's less and less about sharing while using words. We all need photo's as our imagination is lacking?

Here's a youtube experience.

A drop in the ocean?

If coming all this way on the island, try to consider a visit to the village of Mosteiros with it's natural rock pools. 

The cliffs below the nearby hamlet of João Bom are home to fresh water springs and provide a good excuse for a banter through the countryside and along the cliffs high above the Atlantic.

And then there are crater lakes of Lagoa Azul / Lagoa Verde which can all be had in a visit to this part of São Miguel.

Mountains and more

Happy
The last of the snowy soaking pictures for this winter (?). Let's hope so.

Starting off with the south of France:

 

Les Banhs d'Arties #banystermals#hotsprings#bledes#alone#arties#valldaran#termes#natural#winter#valdaran

#relax#nature#mountain#snow#termalwater#hotwater#mineral#hot#forest#montanya#neu

#termal

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feliz con lo que tengo hoy! #rutas#aguastermales #trekkings #relax#pirineos #acampadas #freskiviris #igers #igerspirineo#nieve

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#banystermals #winter #cold #snow #hot #water #bains #dorres #france @uripardo 

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Staying with the mountain theme, heading eastwards the hot spring of Leukerbad, Switzerland are probably a nice alternative to the near non-existence of wild hot springs in this part of Europe ...

#terme #Leukerbad #Svizzera 

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 Just south of the border near Bormio (that's Italy) is this hot spring:

Koupání v -10°C #winter #terme #italy

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Further eastwards Slovakia: 

 

Sleeping in -20°, swimming in +40° #valentinesday #friends #trip #slovakia #kalameny #snow #mountains #winter #wild #hotsprings #lake #adventure #fun #alcohol #party #amazing #beautiful #vsco #vscocam

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More Kalmeny, source

Next to the Horec hotel, Liptovský Ján, Slovakia, source.

Vikings

Finishing off with Iceland:

Vikings. #mystopover

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#Landbrotalaug #hotspring

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