Our avid contributor, none other than Sascha, has decided to seek soaking spots on Europe's edge, in this case Azerbaijan.
What follows, is Sascha's search (and find) mission to Jimi hot spring, located in northern Azerbaijan, not far from the border with Dagestan, in what might be coined a challenging terrain. Sascha:
"While surfing the net back in 2016, I came across a hiking description to some remote hot springs in Azerbaijan. But unfortunately without photos.
Some months later, this hiking trip disappeared from the internet, so probably not many people got interested in this truly special trip. But for me, it had immediately attracted my interest and a possible future destination. Fortunately, I had printed out the route description and thus I tried to organise the trip to the hot springs on my own.
This was the beginning of long evenings of research and mail requests.
Momentarily, no serious hiking maps of the region around the towns of Quba and Qonakend exist. According to the existing maps, there was the risk that the hot springs might be located in the Shahdag national park.
That means that a permit would be mandatory and this needs to be obtained at least 3 weeks before the departure. The procedure as described in the internet looked quite long and rather discouraging.
I decided to contact other tour guides in order to know if they could organise the trip. The result was not really successful: most tour operators did not respond at all or promised to provide details of the trip which they never did. Other tour operators admitted that they never heard of the hot springs, despite claiming to know their country and the region very well.
Hot springs that were not yet visible on the internet, that even local hiking guides did not know?
At this moment the project became even more interesting and I wanted absolutely to discover these hot springs.
At this moment the project became even more interesting and I wanted absolutely to discover these hot springs.
Rigor
Finally, I decided to do the trip on my own, together with my 9 year old daughter.
We travelled to Azerbaijan's capital of Baku where I rented an off-road car.
Finally, I decided to do the trip on my own, together with my 9 year old daughter.
We travelled to Azerbaijan's capital of Baku where I rented an off-road car.
I headed over to the Ministry of Ecology in Baku in order to obtain more information regarding the permit for the Shahdag NP.
A very friendly employee informed me, that permits for the Shahdag NP can also be obtained in Quba. Only those who want to climb up the Shahdag mountain summit need a special permit in advance because the summit is close to the Russian (Dagestan) border.
A very friendly employee informed me, that permits for the Shahdag NP can also be obtained in Quba. Only those who want to climb up the Shahdag mountain summit need a special permit in advance because the summit is close to the Russian (Dagestan) border.
It took me about 2 hours by road to get to the town of Quba (sometimes written as Guba), in the northern part of Azerbaijan.
From Quba, it was again a one hour drive on a new road to Qonakend (Qonaqkənd?).
It was beginning of September and it was raining a lot when I arrived in Qonakend.
It was beginning of September and it was raining a lot when I arrived in Qonakend.
Initially, the idea was to park the car in town and to simply hike to the hot springs, but the strong rains made this plan impossible. In addition, due to absence of a good map, I had no real idea where to start the trip.
I decided to catch some information at the local police office which was located in a big and quite modern building.
As none of the policemen spoke English, they called the English teacher of the town for us.
As none of the policemen spoke English, they called the English teacher of the town for us.
While waiting, we were offered tea and biscuits and tried to communicate with mobile phones and little drawings. Soon, the complete staff of the police station came into the office and shared a tea with us. The room had a strong smell of cigarettes, but this was not of importance at this moment. The tea warmed us and we felt good.
The English teacher arrived, an older and rigorous man. He explained us the way to the 3 surrounding hot springs, but allowed us only to go to Jimi hot springs (Cimi isti su). The other two hot springs were too dangerous to hike to, because of the heavy rain.
Well, that was better than nothing.
Well, that was better than nothing.
The chief policeman decided that one police officer should accompany us for our personal safety. Before starting the trip, the police officer suggested us to have lunch with his family. I was aware that the hospitality in Azerbaijan is remarkable, but on this day my expectations were exceeded; like on the days after.
The hike from Jimi village to the hot springs takes only 5 km but requires to cross the river several times.
The police officer decided it was better to ask a friend with an old UAZ [= Russian off-road vehicle] to drive us there. The driver asked for the trip 50₼ (= Manat, roughly 30€) which I first considered as quite high.
The police officer decided it was better to ask a friend with an old UAZ [= Russian off-road vehicle] to drive us there. The driver asked for the trip 50₼ (= Manat, roughly 30€) which I first considered as quite high.
However, I was wrong.
We spent all together more than 2 hours to get to the hot springs. Signs exist for hikers but because of the rain, we used the river to approach the hot springs. Personally, I have never met such an experienced off-road driver and I was happy that we did not take in my off-road rental car!
Several times we were stuck in the river. The water was so high that it flew into the car and made our trousers wet. Some times we had to prepare with stones a path, sometimes we had to leave immediately the UAZ because the engine need to be repaired (which is located under the middle seat).
We spent all together more than 2 hours to get to the hot springs. Signs exist for hikers but because of the rain, we used the river to approach the hot springs. Personally, I have never met such an experienced off-road driver and I was happy that we did not take in my off-road rental car!
We decided to walk the last 300m and to climb over the rocks.
The rain had made these rocks slippery and I was not sure anymore, if the effort was worth it.
However, our driver was now completely passionate to show us the hot springs. Or was it more a question of honor because he had confirmed to bring us to the hot springs?
Fifteen minutes later we finally arrived.
Relax
Two hunters from the village, stayed in a ramshackle hove above the hot springs and had made it here with their donkeys. Not a bad idea. Maybe next time.
The rain had made these rocks slippery and I was not sure anymore, if the effort was worth it.
However, our driver was now completely passionate to show us the hot springs. Or was it more a question of honor because he had confirmed to bring us to the hot springs?
Fifteen minutes later we finally arrived.
Relax
Two hunters from the village, stayed in a ramshackle hove above the hot springs and had made it here with their donkeys. Not a bad idea. Maybe next time.
Before inspecting the hot springs, we had a tea together and tried to have some conversation. It was a feeling like having found a treasure or having achieved a summit. We felt so happy and moreover we were welcomed by friendly people.
While our guides preferred to continue to discuss with the hunters, my daughter and I went down to the hot springs. The sulphur smelling water comes out of 40°C and flows into a small pool in the ramshackle.
After 5 minutes, there was enough water in the pool for a relaxing soak in the pure nature of Azerbaijan. What a great feeling.
After 5 minutes, there was enough water in the pool for a relaxing soak in the pure nature of Azerbaijan. What a great feeling.
The way back was surprisingly easy.
The policeman offered us to spend a night in his house and again we received hospitality that I never met before. I was happy not to camp in the nature as I had initially foreseen because it was raining all night long and the policeman told us of wolves in the surroundings.
The next morning we had to decide if we continue to explore the two remaining hot springs in the region.
It was clear that the rain was too heavy to risk this adventure.
Impressed
I decided to head over to the southern Azerbaijan to the Talysh mountains where also hot springs exist with a stopover in Qobustan where mud volcano's offer the possibility for a different kind of soak. See my next contribution.
I am still not sure if it was the right decision, maybe I should have stayed a couple days more, until the weather conditions became better.
Anyway, after leaving, I got a call from the English teacher in Qonakend:
“You cannot walk because your legs will sink into the mud”was the argument that convinced me.
Impressed
I decided to head over to the southern Azerbaijan to the Talysh mountains where also hot springs exist with a stopover in Qobustan where mud volcano's offer the possibility for a different kind of soak. See my next contribution.
I am still not sure if it was the right decision, maybe I should have stayed a couple days more, until the weather conditions became better.
Anyway, after leaving, I got a call from the English teacher in Qonakend:
“Why did you not contact me, I feel personally responsible for your safety in the mountains”.We agreed that next time I will contact him more regularly.
I hope that other travelers will have the same positive impressions as I had of Azerbaijan. It’s a fascinating country and their people offer a lot of surprises and at the same time we always felt welcome.
Here are some practical remarks for those who want to visit the same area in search of hot springs (please send photos!):
Here are some practical remarks for those who want to visit the same area in search of hot springs (please send photos!):
- Jimi village: 5km hike to the hot springs, there are signs that mark the way. Walking sticks are helpful to cross the river.
- Village of Dahna : 7km hike to Khaldan hot springs.
- Village of Xashi/Khashi: 4km hike to the hot springs.
The best time for visiting these hot springs is in August.
Some additional tips:
- Buy a local SIM card and download WAZE. This app is particularly helpful in Baku and is more reliable in Azerbaijan that Google Maps.
- All the three villages offer simple accommodation for around 30₼.
- A good option to relax in comfort after the hike is the 5 star Quba Palace Hotel with golf court, spa, steam bath, hamam and 2 pools. Compared to Western Europe standard, the prices in low season are very reasonable.
- Do not hire an off-road car, a simple car is sufficient. If hiking is not an option, then try to hire donkeys or the UAZ. In all villages, guides can show you the way to the hot springs but want some money for this service.
Apart from the hot springs, a trip to Azerbaijan is definitively worth your while: tourism infrastructure exists but has not the commonly known negative side effects (as it is already the case in Georgia). There is real hospitality, good food and a lot of history and culture.
Spend at least one day and night in Baku, the old town is worth a visit. My hotel suggestion is Hotel Dinamo which is a renovated gym. Very central and very friendly staff.
For a budget option, I recommend Hazanov Villas. It is located outside the town but only 10 minutes by car or taxi from the airport and 10 minutes from the sea".
Spend at least one day and night in Baku, the old town is worth a visit. My hotel suggestion is Hotel Dinamo which is a renovated gym. Very central and very friendly staff.
For a budget option, I recommend Hazanov Villas. It is located outside the town but only 10 minutes by car or taxi from the airport and 10 minutes from the sea".
Syrup
Thank you Sascha, it sounds like a terrific adventure; all the more rewarding with finding the hot springs.
Some additional info I came up on the net (though none actually describing a visit here!)
Thank you Sascha, it sounds like a terrific adventure; all the more rewarding with finding the hot springs.
Some additional info I came up on the net (though none actually describing a visit here!)
Wikipedia has an entry on Cimi village though in Azeri. This what the google translate mash up resulted in:
'Cimi oyk, simple. Guba r-nunun Gonagkend settlement iəv in the countryside. It is located in the foothills along the coast of the Cimi River (Valvalachay River). According to the local population, the village was created in the 16th century as a result of the consolidation of families who had moved from several mountain villages and was called Jamie in Arabic. In fact, the village has its name in the thousands. from the springs'.With that cleared up, the Azeri version of wikipedia even has an entry on the hot springs themselves:
'It is located in the Cimi village of Guba region of the Republic of Azerbaijan, in the subdivision of the Cimi River (Valvalacha River). It consists of two hot and one cold mineral springs. The water is sulfuric. Local people use hot springs for treatment. The body is made of "thin, thin water syrup".
This website adds the next when presenting the tourist attractions of Quba :
'There are hydrogen-sulphidous springs on Hashichay River. Here, in the narrow gorge, hot waters of medicinal features are getting out of the rocks. Nobody remembers now who constructed here something like self-made sanatorium consisting of three bathrooms made in the rock width. Each construction at the size of 2x3 m is faced with the stone wall with the shed of the tree trunks. The stone bed of the bathroom fits to the medicinal procedure strike so much that even tourists spoilt by the city civilization spend their times here great pleasure. Semi-darkness, warm water from the rock makes drunk and lull'.
There's also a fire-worship temple not very far away apparently, surprise-surprise.
Hotspringsworldwide notes on Azerbaijan, the existence of two soaking spots:'Jimi-Xashi Hot springs Masalli istisu ( photo)'.
Explore Azerbaijan offers a trip on their Facebook page:
'... From Dahna village trecking up along Utugchay river canyon towards hot sulfurated hydrogen baths (18 km) Tourists move down through the picturesque canyon, covered with bushes of sea buckthorn, barberry, wild rose hips and wild cherry plum (alycha). After 6 hours of trekking tourists descend into the canyon to the hot healing springs that flow down into the canyon from steep cliffs. In the rocks at some height there are a few stone huts with baths that are filled with the hot hydrogen sulphide water that runs down from the rocks.
...
Springs of Xashi – Utugchai river gorge – Utug village (16 km).
...
4. Utug village – Jimichai river canyon – Jimi sulphur-springs ( 6 km). Here tourists could take bath in sulphur-springs and reduce fatigue. Overnight in tents. ________________________________ Day 5. Jimi sulphur-springs – Konagkend settlement (10 km). Trekking along Jimichai river gorge'.
'Other popular Azerbaijan trekking tours feature the hot springs of Xashi in the Utugchai river gorge where most trekkers will spend the night camping the meadow besides them. Nearby are the Jimi sulphur springs that are typically incorporated in the same trek'.
But this more or less is it. Even acclaimed thermalsprings.ru isn't in on the act.
So, not more. Until now.
So, not more. Until now.
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