Following are a trio of soakable encounters from France's Pyrénées-Orientales as reported by Sascha and which I have updated late 2021.
Unfortunately, all three are very much being overrun. As a consequence local sentiment is decidedly against outside tourists (though it seems hippy culture is the main target) and others seeking soaking solace. So I'll try to report without revealing too much. Which is a contradiction: the hot springs are very much clothing optional, an antidote in our current day civilisation. Well worth preserving.
Sascha visited all 3 back in 2018 and has the following to introduce us and add on getting here:
Apart from several commercial hot springs like in Saint-Thomas or in Dorres (which are nevertheless very nice), these 3 hot springs places are completely natural and surrounded by a wonderful surrounding.
I took the Ryanair flight from Brussels Charleroi to Perpignan and then a rental car.
If you need less comfort or have more time it is also possible to take a bus to reach the 3 hot springs locations.
Should you come from Perpignan, it is advisable to buy your food in Prades, in the following towns there are only small supermarkets or no supermarket at all (like in Fontpédrouse).
Note that Prades has a very nice vibe, well worth a visit. Especially if it coincides with the Saturday farmer's market.
Fontpédrouse has a nice camping place where also huts are available.
In late October a hut was definitely a good decision as snow started to fall. Another advantage is that the camping place is not directly located in the town. In this region all churches ring each half hour, during the day and night which can make it difficult to sleep.
These pools were unaffected by the rains. They were hot and mostly full of visiting Spaniards, one man playing a didgeridoo and everyone naked.
The soaks nearest here are so popular that it is becoming a serious problem. Some visitors do not always bring their rubbish to the dustbins in town which attracts all the well known consequences. No toilets in the surroundings, does not help the situation.
What actually vexes the locals the most is the haphazard parking situation. Such that access to the village is blocked. On my visit a gendarme was checking the parked vehicles, so safe to assume that if parked in the way you'll be ticketed. Or worse.
Originally Sacha refers to the soakers as being hippies. Locals say they are Spanish. But don't discount the wanna-be influencers, who brave the situation ("oh no, naked people"). And generally lovers of soaking. But somehow the shiny campervans don't seem to be part of the problem (I wonder why?).
However, the hot springs themselves are very clean and very beautiful.
I agree, a bit muddy though, but otherwise very, very pretty.
Some people were complaining that the hot springs are overcrowded, in particular in summer, but I think this characterizes these hot springs with its hippie atmosphere. Hippies that stay around the springs for several months usually take their bath in the morning. Later, tourists and other hippies that have parked their camping cars on the street are joining. I recommend avoiding the high season, i.e. during holidays and if you really want more secrecy, you better go elsewhere.
The pools have temperatures for each preference, from (too?) hot (44°C) to lukewarm. In the upper pools there is gravel, in the lower pools some mud.
Access is possible from the camping site but the way is a bit difficult to find. The indications are old and sometimes too many paths become confusing.
Bush
We move on.
The lowest hot springs are my favorite ones [mine too]. The combination of hot springs of different temperatures close by a cold river that gives an excellent opportunity to refresh is just fantastic.
" Termas naturales y secretas, agua rehabilitadora, paisaje que te envuelve "
Sporty
The hot spring between the two above is probably the most difficult of the three to find.
Locals told me that they were upset about too many hippies at the springs although when I visited the hot springs twice, I was almost alone.
So is it a good idea to explain the access in the internet?
I think that the access is so difficult that it will never become really popular.
Let me add. On my way out (on an early a Sunday), I saw at least 3 groups (of minimally 10 persons) heading in.
No camping is possible (at least not directly at the springs) and parking possibilities are very difficult to get. A huge parking site in front of the hospital was closed and now parking space is only left for two cars.
Despite of this, you should try your luck. If you got one of the two parking places, go to the entrance of the hospital. Right from the hospital for mental illnesses there is a small way that goes up to the train station. Cross the railways. To your left you see an entrance gate where the path continues. Head to the right and hike up the hill until the way goes more to the right in parallel to the main road where you parked the car. Follow the black water pipes. After a while the way turns to the left into a valley but remains on the same altitude. After a few meters try to find a number (13?) that is written on the rocks. Directly after this rock you have to climb down to the river.
Local efforts have thwarted this, as authorities are concerned by possible electrification, as the small railway receives its power via a rail alongside. So beware.
It looks quite sportive, but in reality it is easy to manage. Then go along the river upwards (to the left) and you will come first to some smaller pools. If you climb up the rocks you will get access the grotto that was too hot for soaking.
People installed a pipe to cool down the water but even with some cooler water the grotto was still too hot.
However, just in front of the grotto is a perfect pool for one or two persons that was carved in the rocks. A real natural soaking pool made of one bold rock with a perfect view.
Is there a better way to relax?
Great article. i read that it starts snowing there in october. is it completely out of the question to attempt a visit in December?
ReplyDeleteNo, it's not. Snow is a possibility, not an assurance. But even then, the roads should be navigable and the track is not too difficult. And the waters stay hot.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for these descriptions! We went to the canaveilles river hot spring today, spent about an hour alone before a few more people came,it was wonderful, will never forget!
ReplyDeleteGreat to hear you enjoyed it. I hope to be heading there in the near future, hopefully I can experience the same ...
DeleteThank you so much for your article.
ReplyDeleteI love wild hotspring (especially in TAiWAN and Japan)
we are going to spend one week around Pyrenees next week (summer), can't wait to find out the wild hot spring at Prats-Balaguer and Canaveilles.
Next summer is still a long wait, but nonetheless I hope you will enjoy your visit. Well, I know you will.
ReplyDeletei recently came back from this region. all pools described in this article became bigger and better due to clever engineering. so next to more pools to soak, also the popularity seems to increase with out stopping... quite logical if you ask me!!
ReplyDeleteSo the more soaking spirit the better!! but part of the spirit for me is the peace and nature. So it thrills me to every year find new soaks and even hardly touched springs .... not everything is well described yet!!
Hi Hans,
DeleteThanks for taking the effort to report.
I share your concern about the ever increasing popularity of hot springs, it's a global phenomena. I've yet to see how to address this, some community management would help.
But the number of people on our planet is always increasing, we are earning more meaning we have more time and cash to travel. And enjoy these beautiful places.