Baffled

November has been a month of unforgettable adventures!

We toured the Muga Mountains on an eBike, enjoying a dreamy natural bath. We also enjoyed a tantric massage workshop at our location and participated in an exciting Rogaine. We ate oysters and took a dip in Leucate, explored Sant Martí del Canigó, and relaxed in some hot springs in the Pyrenees. An eBike tour through La Garrotxa rounded out a month full of unique experiences!

Cultureofbathing has a piece (Mar. 15) on wellness and the question:

'Whatever happened to the leisurely bath?

The article looks into the bathing art in/of many (Euro) countries, past and present.

Could it be just doing nothing, that's just a major part of the attraction of soaking? 

Be it in hot springs, sauna's, hammam's and assorted. Wherever you are?

So with this we start another overview of Europe's soaking and soaking culture.

France. 23b~log (Jan. 12) heads over to centre of the country's Chaudes Aigues:

'We were visiting in mid January 2025 at the time we had something like -10ºC outside during the night and little more during the day. I just wanted a hot bath at this point and was willing to pay entrance to enter a pool. I know it’s not uncommon for spas to be closed for the cold season: But I will remain baffled, furious and sad. Sacré bleu'.

Marks: just 1

Bert, the blogger on 23b~log, then continues further south to explore and report (Jan. 14) on Rennes-les-Bains. 

Considering that outside temperatures were freezing, it's not at all surprising that he misses the best bath, simply because the ambient temperature ensures the hot water cools down too much to enjoy. It (Rennes) is still awarded a 6.5:

'The coldest days of the year are not ideal time to bathe here, since the only hot option is quite crowded and not exactly hygienic. I can imagine having a better time in summer when he other sources become warm enough to enjoy'.

In the north of Portugal, not too far from Galicia.

Canalaltotamega (Mar. 20) reports on the new thermal hot spring fed complex opening in Chaves. Unfortunately the artcle is unquoteable.

I looked up the Termas de Chaves website:

'Part of the main Wellbeing area, the Aquae Salutem Complex [Termal Aquae Salutem] features a diverse Hydrothermal Circuit, designed to revitalise both body and mind. Highlights include naturally heated Hydrodynamic Pools, between 30ºC and 36ºC, a Sauna and a Turkish Bath — ideal for purification and detoxification. The Sensory Showers, complete with sound effects and thermal contrasts, including an Ice Fountain, stimulate the senses and promote deep relaxation.

The space has capacity for up to 104 people. Access permitted for children aged 14 and over when accompanied by an adult.

Visit the Aquae Salutem Complex — the only one of its kind in Portugal — and discover a place where history, innovation and wellbeing come together in perfect harmony'.

Portugal News (Mar. 26) though does the news and in English:

'The center's new features include the Hydrodynamic Pools, which operate outdoors and are fed by naturally hot waters, at 76 degrees, which enhance the therapeutic benefits of this natural resource.

...

The complex has capacity for 104 people. It is the result of a total investment of 2.4 million euros, financed by the Northern Regional Operational Programme, and is integrated into the existing Termas de Chaves. The new space was built through the refurbishment of part of the old building, which also received new relaxation areas, service desks and changing rooms'.

Pounded

From 2 years back (8 Jan. 2023), adventurediary headed over to Tuscany for a wintery soak / adventure:

'After breakfast was a short drive to the first of two natural hot-springs we would visit in succession. Bagni San Fillipo is a series of hillside pools surrounded by forest. Its mostly visited by locals for its so called healing properties and flies a little under the radar. At this time of year it was very quiet and we were able to enjoy one pool just to ourselves. It was quite wet and dirty getting to the pools but once in, the water was nearly 40°C and very difficult to get out of again! After a couple of lovely hours there we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and made the drive through the countryside to our next overnight stop at Saturnia.

Saturnia

Saturnia is a spa town which has been inhabited, as most towns in this region have, since ancient times. Its most famous for its sulphurous hot-spring pools which cascade at the side of an abandoned mill. These pools hold water at around 37°C and are formed by the deposition of calcareous rock from the evaporation of the water under the gushing waterfall. Its really a spectacular sight and a joy to just lie in for much longer than is probably recommended!

The van park was quite dilapidated with very uneven access, a sanitary area that really needs an upgrade and a camper service that needed to be condemned. But it served a purpose even at a high price and as it was the only park-up within reasonable walking distance.

Arriving late in the afternoon we went immediately to the pools and were a little surprised to find it completely full. It’s an incredible natural phenomenon and still free to access so it has continuous traffic through the day. And although we enjoyed it, there were far too many people for us so we went back to the van and enjoyed a sunset meal and an early night.

The next morning we were already back at the pools before sunrise which seemed to be the perfect time for us as there were only 2 other people there for the next 60 minutes. We enjoyed a wonderful time jumping between the pools and being pounded by the waterfalls. We were already making our way back for breakfast and smelling of sulphur before the masses had even opened their eyes.

The Guardian (Mar. 21) with an interesting article on Napoli's possible next point of increasing volcanic activity:

'Photojournalist Alessandro Gandolfi has been documenting the Phlegraean Fields in southern Italy, where a record 6,740 earthquakes were recorded in 2024, and the seismic swarm has continued in 2025. The volcanic field has been active for more than 80,000 years. It is dotted with craters, lakes and fumaroles as well as roads, factories and the homes of more than 600,000 people.

...

Bradyseism, literally “slow movement”, continues to raise the ground across the Phlegraean Fields. It raised Pozzuoli by two metres in the 1980s, leading to the evacuation of 40,000 people from the Rione Terra neighbourhood.

Bradyseism has always existed in these parts. On the Roman columns of the Temple of Serapis you can still see the holes made by stone-eroding organisms, created when the ground subsided about 10 metres in the following centuries. For a long time they were submerged in sea water.

Two women enter the swimming pool at the Terme Vesuviana spa in Naples. The mineral springs connected to Vesuvius have been exploited for their health benefits since Roman times. Photograph Alessandro Gandolfi

Baden (Switzerland) Bad zum Raben bath cooperation has announced the hot spring fed baths are now closed, subject to renovation. 

Until 2026? 2027 even, according to the Badener Tageblatt (Jan. 21). 

More details on the changes, likewise published by the Badener Tageblatt (Feb. 12).

Wrapping up the hot springs, another slightly older share (Jan. 29, 2024):

NUOVE ZONE INESPLORATE 🔥 Sardegna in Camper Van ⛺️

Enrico Spano

Esplorazione in Van nell'entroterra del nord Sardegna, alla scoperta di terme libere, siti archeologici e paesaggi di incredibile bellezza!

00:00Intro00:21Terme libere05:19Domus de Janas11:21On the Road12:20Lago Lerno

Equal

The sauna world. From all over Europe. No better way to start than in Finland.

New York Times (Mar. 4) looks at the sauna and questions

'Can a Finnish Sauna Improve Society?

Despite the implications of a positive answer on this, it's just a teaser for a look into the architectural significance of Finnish sauna design:

'Finland now has a social welfare system that rivals those of its Scandinavian neighbors, and about three million saunas for its population of 5.6 million people. In these spaces — from tiny lakeside cabins to semipublic spas in city centers — “it doesn’t matter how much money you have or what you do,” says Saija Silen, a 48-year-old curator at the Museum of Central Finland in the city of Jyväskylä. “The sauna is the foundation of Finnish equality.”

The article then looks at the build of a sauna (the architects), changes of society (from public to private and back again (?)) and how sauna culture is Finnish culture. And vice-versa.

Arguably, we could also have started this section with Estonia. 

Nowness has a vdo on what they describe as the Mooska (Oct. 18, 2024) ritual. If you liked the Smoke Sauna Sisterhood, head here now. Description:

'In Haanja, Estonia, the Võromaa smoke sauna tradition is observed as a unique path to emotional and physical wellness – a profound healing ritual, continued by the region’s rural community. Honored by the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage for its importance to Estonian culture, the practice initiates a transformative journey for those who enter into it, rooted in ancient practice and integrating knowledge of local herbology in a spiritual, sonic experience.

From the verdant surroundings of Mooska farm, Eda Veeroja has become renowned for her sauna healing capabilities, documented in short [12 min.] film Mooska. Directed by Samuel Aarnio, the immersive documentary ventures deep into the ritual, as Veeroja constructs a sacred space between women seeking to clear a friend’s relationship trauma'.

An article from UK's Daily Mail (Mar 11), with a report on a visit to a typical Dutch 'spa'. But this being the sensationalist press, of course the emphasis is on the lack of clothing. The author though is out to promote  the clothelessness as neutral as possible; him being a British Naturism promoter:

'The spas are not ‘naturist’ places - the nudity is simply a means to an end.

The most effective way (the only way?) to get the right results from bothering to have a sauna in the first place is to allow it to affect the whole of your body.

You wouldn’t have a bath with your underwear on.

In practice - especially in February, when I visited - most guests wander around in their dressing gowns, only disrobing (literally) when they enter a sauna or pool.

What really sets these places apart from the UK experience is the sheer number of facilities.

The buildings themselves are not necessarily huge, nor need to be surrounded by manicured lawns, topiary hedges or classical statuary to attract clients.

They’re everywhere too and, it seems to me, treated by locals as we would a leisure centre or gym.

They’re packed - not to uncomfortable levels—but I mean popular. And to all age groups. Though it has to be said, in my late fifties, I’m often one of the older people spa-ing'.

Germany then, from Reddit (Mar. 27), the enquiry to what's second best:

'They all have the same logo as they are or were associated with Josef Wund, I loved Therme Erding, so was wondering what one is the second best to try? I know the Vabali ones, but I really liked the format of Therme Erding so want to try similar places.

Therme Bad Wörishofen

Badeparadies Schwarzwald Titisee

Thermen & Badewelt Sinsheim

Thermen & Badewelt Euskirchen

I also noticed another place called Obermain Therme has a similar logo, but I don't think it is related'.

The answer:

'Here's a ranked list of the top 100 Thermes in Germany for 2024 https://www.travelcircus.de/thermenurlaub

Therme Erding is #1 Therme Euskirchen is #2 Therme Sinshiem is #3 Therme Bad Wörishofen is #6 Obermain Therme is #8 and Badeparadies Schwarzwald is way down at #29 The three Vabali Thermes show up at #4, 7 & 15

As for ownership, Therme Erding is operated by the Global Therme Group. Euskirchen, Sinsheim and Schwarzwald are operated by a Therme Group subsidiary, Thermengruppe Josef Wund.

Therme Bad Wörishofen is not connected to the Therme group, but Jörg Wund is their managing director. There's probably an interesting family story about why he's using the Therme Group logo.

Obermain Therme appears to have no relation to the others'.

The ranking checked 300 thermen throughout Austria, Germany and Switzerland.

saunasherpa

Marvel 

Saunachannel advises (Mar. 12) all followers to head over to their site and visit their latest offering: Caucasian Healing Waters: Bathing in Georgia. 

A really beautiful shot and authentic overview of what's available in the country, concerning hot springs (most), wellness and sauna's. If you have 20 minutes to spare, it's really worthwhile.

Their description:

'Experience a transformative journey through the heart of Georgia, where ancient traditions and natural wonders converge in the healing embrace of its waters. Healing Caucasian Waters: Bathing in Georgia unveils the hidden sanctuaries and therapeutic rituals that have shaped the culture of this captivating land for centuries. From the mineral-rich mud of Akhtala to the steamy sulfur baths of Tbilisi and the serene natural springs nestled in remote landscapes, this film invites you to immerse yourself in the restorative power of Georgia's diverse thermal experiences. Discover the stories, the sensations, and the profound sense of well-being that these sacred waters offer, and witness how they continue to nurture both body and soul.

1. Horizons Kakheti, Republic of Georgia

...

2. Akhtala - Mud Treatment Resort

Akhtala is a sanctuary of therapeutic mud, a geological marvel where mineral-rich mud has been used for centuries to alleviate ailments. This resort harnesses the earth's ancient power, offering treatments that soothe and revitalize. The experience is deeply grounding, a return to primal healing, where the very earth itself becomes a source of restoration. The mineral properties of the mud are known to help with many physical ailments.

...

3. Tbilisi Sulfur Baths - Banya №5

...

4. Tbilisi Balneological Resort

The Tbilisi Balneological Resort is a modern haven dedicated to the science of healing waters. Here, advanced techniques blend with natural springs to offer a comprehensive approach to wellness. From mineral baths to specialized shower and underwater therapies, the resort provides a structured path to recovery and revitalization. It's a place where the therapeutic power of Georgia's waters is harnessed with precision and care to include massage with a bath attendant similar to a Turkish Hammam treatment complete with a kisa scrub and cleansing, followed by relaxation and finishing off with tea.

5. Vani Sulfur Pool (4H3P+RQ5, Дихашхо, Vani)

Hidden away in the countryside near Vani, this natural sulfur pool offers an unadulterated experience of Georgia's thermal bounty. The rustic setting, far from the city's bustle, allows for a truly immersive encounter with the healing waters. Here, nature dictates the pace, and the simple act of bathing becomes a profound connection to the earth's restorative energy. The open air setting allows for a very natural bathing experience. 

6. Tskaltubo (8JG2+HRR, Tskaltubo)

Tskaltubo is synonymous with radon-carbonate mineral waters, a legacy that has drawn visitors seeking healing for decades. The unique properties of these waters, naturally warm and rich in minerals, offer a gentle yet powerful therapeutic experience. The grand, somewhat faded elegance of Tskaltubo's sanatoriums speaks to a time when this town was a premier destination for health and wellness. The waters are known to help with circulatory and nervous system conditions.

7. Tekhuri Thermal Springs (958W+33J, Jikha)

Deep in the lush landscapes surrounding Jikha, the Tekhuri Thermal Springs offer a raw and untamed experience of Georgia's geothermal wonders. These natural springs, located in the riverbed of Abasha River provide a pure and unadulterated connection to the earth's warmth. The mineral water contains sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and silicon which is a testament to the healing power of these natural springs.

As the steam clears and the waters settle, Healing Caucasian Waters: Bathing in Georgia leaves you with a lasting sense of tranquility and a deep appreciation for the enduring connection between humanity and nature. Our film is an invitation to experience the transformative power of Georgia's healing waters for yourself. Whether you seek physical rejuvenation, cultural immersion, or simply a moment of serene escape, these ancient traditions offer a profound path to wellness. We hope this journey inspires you to explore the hidden spas and natural springs of Georgia, and to discover your own path to healing in the heart of the Caucasus.

Arguably Belgium's no. 1 thermal resort, Thermen Katara, has announced (Mar. 21) for the Easter period two additional suits-only days. The announcement on Facebook, seems to ellict astonishment.

Read this comment from Apr. 9 (translated):

'Today we went to swimsuit day..Honestly, a completely different audience, no real sauna goers, lots of noise, children, no peace, I would like to know when there are NOT many people, Sunday morning at 8 o'clock? And where did the scrub salt go? Or does that not work with those swimsuits??

A: apparently it stains swimwear, so yes it doesn't work with swimsuits.

kollektiv_hotel_regina

4wMercii bubikon!!

@kantonzürich @mo.prax @domenico_decoco @quirin_streuli @keramikzentrale @cilio_planet @linmidara @tommasuki @albalmaseda @brunnengehn @ritterhausbubikon

#brunnengehn #hallowasser #hotpot #brunnen #wasser #pumpen #velo #anhängerkupplung #publicspace

Finally, the Swiss initiative Brunnen Gehn has spent most of March touring smaller places in the Kanton Zürich (see photo above). Translated:

'The project dream comes true: "Going to the Fountains" tours villages, hamlets, towns, and the metropolitan area. With the "Going to the Fountains" tour through the canton of Zurich , we will travel through the canton from March 14 to April 1, inviting ourselves to ten towns and villages to heat the fountains and, in turn, invite the locals to join the bathing ritual in the evening. The "Going to the Fountains" project has existed in Basel since 2016. Every year from November to March, around 15 fountain heaters heat ten Basel fountains to a pleasant 39°C using a mobile wood-burning stove. In doing so, they revitalize the neighborhoods and transform public spaces into attractive meeting places, even in winter. A reception desk, mobile cloakroom, cold shower, footbath, and lifeguard complete the " Going to the Fountains" ritual'.

i_dipfele_4_4

Bei der Kälte sind heiße Quellen einfach herrlich.

Wir sind wieder mit Michl und Yvonne zusammen und werden auch gemeinsam Richtung Türkei fahren.

#thermophylae #heißequellen #gemeinsamreisen

Fierce

 

Sascha seems to know no soaking stop.

Hot on the heels of his Georgian quest for a good soak, he now focuses his attention to the southwestern Romanian town of Băile Herculane.

There are quite a few soaks to catch up with here. 
Let's just see what we can find on Băile Herculane and it's hot springs.
Starting off with Wikipedia: 

'Băile Herculane  is a town in Romanian Banat, in Caraș-Severin County, situated in the valley of the Cerna River, between the Mehedinți Mountains to the east and the Cerna Mountains to the west, elevation 168 meters. Its current population is approximately 5,000.  
... 
Legend has it that the weary Hercules stopped in the valley to bathe and rest. Unearthed stone carvings show that visiting Roman aristocrats turned the town into a Roman leisure center.  
... 
In modern times, the spa town has been visited for its supposedly natural healing properties: hot springs with sulfur, chlorine, sodium, calcium, magnesium and other minerals, as well as negatively ionized air. Before World War II, when the first modern hotel was built (i.e. H Cerna, 1930) it remained a popular destination with Western Europeans. During the Communist rule, mass tourismfacilities were built, such as the 8- to 12-storied concrete hotels Roman, Hercules A, Hercules B, Afrodita, Minerva, Diana, UGSR, etc. which dominate the skyline. It was visited by all kinds of people, but was especially popular with employees and retirees, who would spend their state-allotted vacation vouchers there, hoping to improve their health. Today, they share the town with a younger crowd. New privately owned pensions and hotels appeared after 1989, along the Cerna/Tiena river banks, spread from the train station to the end of the hydroelectrical dam. Some of the Austro-Hungarian era buildings are derelict for the time being, including many of the baths, because of post-communism property related issues'.

From the website roman-thermal-spas.eu:

'Baile Herculane is blessed with 16 thermal springs with different mineral characteristics.
...
Around the statue of Hercules Baile Herculane’s imperial historical center offers a range of beautiful buildings like the imperial pavilions. Also see the railway station from 1878, which is one of Romania’s most beautiful stations. In imperial times, the Austrian empress Elizabeth – known as Sissi – came to Baile Herculane five times. For her the town was “the most beautiful spa resort on the continent”.

Amazingromania has a deeper look at the architecture of Băile Herculane.

Wikivoyage:

'At present, 16 natural springs wait thermal mineral water, scattered along the Cerna for about 4 km, are known in the neighbourhoud of the resort Baile Herculane'.

Crazy tourist - 15 places best to visit in Romania:

'Archaeological digs confirm that humans have inhabited the area of modern day Baile Herculane since the Palaeolithic period. You can visit Pestera Hotilor (The Cave of Thieves) to see proof for yourself. The town is now famous for its luxurious thermal springs. Legend holds that Hercules himself once stopped here to bathe and rest. The city is so fond of its famous visitor that no less than six statues of him have been discovered here. Since WWII, people have come for the healing properties of the hot springs. Baile Herculane is a funny mix of senior citizens enjoying their retirement and the university crowd, looking for a great holiday'.

Travelguideromania has an extensive entry on Băile Herculane with some very good info:

'It was first documented in 153 AD. The first name of the resort was Ad Aquas Herculi Sacras Ad Mediam. It was given by the Romans, meaning the holy waters of Hercules from Ad Mediam.
...
All the springs are emanating a smell of sulfur, some stronger, some weaker.
The source of the spring waters seems to be in fact the surface water.
The water seeps underground and penetrate to depths between 1,000 and 2,000 meters. It heats up considerably (up to 190 ° C). After it rise to surface where it breaks in the form of springs.
The whole chemical process, which begins with the water infiltration into the underground and ends the day out as thermal springs, it can take decades and even thousands of years.
The water temperature is generally 35 ° -45 ° C, but in some cases up to 62 ° C. Water has a high degree of mineralization – as the result of the action of the hot water on the rocks crossed the way back to the surface.
...
Under the administration in Vienna were rediscovered the Roman baths and the resort started to develop.
Bathrooms were built and people were coming to treatment throughout the empire. Visiting the baths in 1852, the Emperor Franz Joseph I said that “now in the Cerna Valley is the most beautiful resort on the continent“.
...
Herculane Baths Resort nowadays: although it is a very important architectural heritage, the historic center suffers a fierce degradation. Even so, the historical buildings are outstanding beauties and worth visiting'.

A very extensive and informative article, a great source of information if visiting here.

Smarthealthtourism has more details:

'The waters in Baile Herculane are extremely beneficial to the health and come in a wide array of mineralization degrees and temperatures. There are chlorosodic, bicarbonated and slightly sulfurous mineral thermal waters, with a mineralization of 0.5 – 2.6 g/L and a temperature of 38 – 53 °C, chlorosodic, bicarbonate and calcic waters, with a mineralization of 0.6 – 3.5 g/L and a temperature of 46 – 56 °C and chlorosodic, sulfurous and iodized waters, with a temperature that reaches 62 °C and a mineralization of 3.85 – 8 g/L.
The springs available in Baile Herculane are similar to those available in Vichy and Le Mont-Dore, their main characteristic being the high concentration, of around 60 mg/L, of sulfurous hydrogen. More than 15 springs are known, the most important being Neptun, Diana, Hebe, Ileana, Iosif, Hercules and Hygeea, with waters that have temperatures between 41 and 67 °C. Baile Herculane is also well known for its natural aeroionisation. The aeroions are beneficial for the human body by lowering blood pressure and calming endocrine ailments, headaches and insomnia'.

So in general, the springs are well covered on internet.

Hospitable
Let's look at how Sascha approaches Băile Herculane:

'The pictures that I saw before of Băile Herculane were often not too inspiring. But the impression was wrong; I really appreciated the town and the hot springs. In addition, Băile Herculane is a good starting point for beautiful hikes in the Cernei / Domogled National Park that is part of the UNESCO heritage. In autumn with sunshine it is just wonderful. 

The best map for the national park is published by muntii-nostri.ro, that map also helps to find the hot springs, although they are all close by the main street on the river and easy to find.

Băile Herculane is easy to reach; from Timisoara it is about 180 km, I took a rental car, but there is also a (slow) train that goes from Timisoara to Băile Herculane. 

However, some hot springs require a long hike on the main street or a taxi. Because, the best hiking trails are a bit more inside the national park, a rental car is certainly a good idea. 

It is also advisable, to spend 1 day in Timisoara, the town is in a good shape (in comparison to other Romanian cities). 

Direct flights to Timisoara exist from Frankfurt Hahn and Brussels Charleroi with WizzAir.

It is easy to imagine how beautiful the city of Băile Herculane must have been in the past, when Sissy [of Austrian empire fame] stayed several times in her house close by the river. 

Today, most houses are run down, the thermal complex is closed and also a number of (communist) hotel complex. It is like the city felt asleep and waits for complete face lift. 

It is better to know that before travelling to Băile Herculane in order to avoid being disappointed. It’s part of the Romanian reality.

I travelled to Băile Herculane in October [2018] and there was no need to make a reservation before, which permits to negotiate the hotel prices. Some hotels also have pools with thermal water, and some few of them have the pool outside, which is quite nice in the evening after a long hike. 

Do not expect too many young people; the average age should be around 60+. One reason is that retired persons in Romania get vouchers that permits to pay only 50% of the regular hotel price for a period of 60 days per year. Another reason seems to be that Romania does not have too much thermal towns, and Băile Herculane is the most known.

During my travels in Georgia I met a Romanian couple and they shared my point of view, that Georgians were not as friendly to tourists as we expected. “You should go to Romania and you will feel real hospitality” he said. Well, as most of my friends I had not a real idea of Romanian hospitality. After Băile Herculane and Timisoara, I have to admit they are really friendly and helpful. In each hot spring I found somebody who spoke a bit English or German, each soak ended in a discussions and translations for the other soakers. I had the impression, that in Romania, soaking is much more a social activity than e.g. in the Pyrénées / France where the impression was that everyone is soaking on his own'.

Murky 

Sascha has visited nearly half what is officially listed as hot springs belonging to 
Băile Herculane, but not the 16 mentioned above.
This post introduces Băile Venera.
Sascha:

'The hot springs are described in a geographical order. Coming from the main road from Timisoara, you enter first in the town of Baile Herculane and the first hot spring to visit is Băile Venera.

Băile Venera is located in the town of Băile Herculane. There are inside bathrooms (entrance fee 7 Lei for adults) and an outdoor pool which was empty at the time of my visit. This complex was first built in 1838 during the Austrian-Hungarian Emperor. To find the free concrete pool, it is advisable to check the situation from the other side of the river, as the entrance is not directly visible. It looks that you are crossing private ground, but in reality it is the path to the pool. When you enter into the official Băile Venera ground you are on the wrong way.

The pool itself is 38°C warm; warm enough for a long soak. The water is somewhat green-murky, but seems to be normal and natural (the thermal water in the hotel had the same color). According to the hotel owner it is slightly radioactive, but the intensity is so low, that even children are admitted to soak as long as they want'.

The hot spring of Băile Venera has it's own Facebook page and it does seem that there's a more official part to this hot spring. In the photo above tou can see a sign above a lower building.

What Sascha has been looking at is the more rambling part, probably the citizens bath ...?

Furthermore from the website Barepockets.com it has the following:

'Băile Venera (“Venera Baths”) in the Old Historical Center is one of the very few surviving Roman baths in the resort. Not long ago, almost every hotel had its own baths, and there were several public ones to choose from. Now, they’ve all been left to rot, sad reminders of a golden age long gone. Băile Venera bears testimony to Roman-bath architecture, with high vaulted ceilings echoing and amplifying each sound'.

Finally, there's a video:

Slim

Continuing with our soaking recherche of Georgia, Sascha now introduces us to Nokalakevi hot spring, in the northwest of the country.

Wikipedia enlightens us on the relevance of Nokalakevi :

'Nokalakevi (Georgian: ნოქალაქევი) also known as Archaeopolis (Ancient Greek: Ἀρχαιόπολις, literally meaning ancient town) and Tsikhegoji ("Fortress of Kuji"), is a village and archaeological site in the Senaki municipality, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region, Georgia'.

Absolutely no mention of hot springs are made.

But Sascha knows better: 

'These hot springs were mentioned by Lonely Planet.  
Drive first to the beach of Nokalakevi (on the left hand side, there is a hotel, the only one in the village). From here, continue the road up for around 1 km, on your right hand side there is a spring sign and a small gravel road that you need to take that leads down to the river. The last part of this way is very rocky and steep, a high clearance car is recommended, otherwise walk the last 200 m down to the river.
You first reach the 2 springs that have boiling temperature and therefore a fence surrounds the hot springs. The thermal water flows into the river on two points'.

Photo:

Two points, two options for soaking:

'Head first to the pools on you left hand side and check if there is some place free.
There are some small pools near the river and the water is only around 37/38° warm. However, warm enough to relax for hours in the small pools. Unfortunately, the pools are not very deep, you must be either very slim or only half of the body is covered by thermal water.
The river invites for a refreshing soak.
Some even flow with the river to Nokalaveki beach'.

 

Or:

'The second option is to climb down the stairs right from the little bar down to the river. 

On your right side, the hot water creates a cascade. Many man-made pools nearby the river can be found, but the hot water comes also from the ground which made the pools to hot by the time of visiting in July'.

Nikita Tiunov at Nokalavaki:

DSC06912

Stones
As accustomed in the other Georgian hot springs there's little to add / find in the internet. 
The said Lonely Planet lets us in own some info:

'Some 60km from Zugdidi via Senaki, Nokalakevi is a picturesque and historic ancient Colchian royal town and fortress. A tunnel leads down to the Tekhura River from the grassy grounds, and admission includes an interesting archaeological museum. Excavations are ongoing (see www.nokalakevi.org). About 1km upstream on the Tekhura you can take a dip in soothing thermal pools'.

The website Eurasia adds:

'Beyond a house a tiny path leads up to a fort on a hill (as opposed to the citadel, higher up and reached by a jeep track to the north, a pleasant walk of an hour or so each way); at the northern end of a very solid 19th-century girder bridge (for pedestrians and bikes only) across the river are the remains of a 5th-century bathhouse (with three rooms for three different temperatures, and red ceramic heating elements). As in most Georgian forts, there's a tunnel down to the river, to get water during a siege. On the far side of the river is a popular, if stony, beach, and a road leading up into a dramatic gorge with popular hot springs a kilometre or two along. It's possible to stay at the archaeological base if it's not full'.

A youtube find:

 And finally, Thermalsprings.ru jots down the details :

Location: near the Archeopolis Nokalakevi on the right bank of the River Tehura.

Infrastructure: two wells.

Description: Old self-flowing wells, most likely drilled in the 1970s. Pillows of carbonate sediments formed around the wells, which descend along the river terrace to the river bed. Next to the riverbed laid baths of boulders in which you can soak in the warm water.

Water type: pH = 6.9, fresh M = 879 mg / l, T> 62.7 ° C.

gogeorgia_ at Nokalaveki:

#горячиеисточники#нокалакеви #сернаявода#лекарстводлятела #турпогрузии#Gogeorgia

Sourced

 

Heading away from the Georgian capital, Sascha's next destination is the small town of Borjomi. 
Surrounded by protected nature reserves (Georgia's largest national park of Borjomi Kharagauli), Sascha introduces the town as such:

'Borjomi is famous for its carbonized mineral waters that in the past were distributed in whole Russia. Today, the City of Borjomi is a good starting point for hikes in the Borjomi National Park, but no hot springs there'.

It seems that Borjomi is synonymous with mineral water. 

The wikipedia link above notes that from the 19th century taking the waters here resulted in the town coming into existence.  
Communism seems to only have changed the soakers provenance: from the aristocracy to the new elite.

Bottling the mineral waters has both enhanced the town's reputation as well helped the local labour force. 

Advice

However the (hot) spring itself is located some way from the town, which despite the experience of the soak itself does enhance the overall experience of being in nature. 

Sascha:

'According to the [Park] Ranger, the only hot spring is located in the Borjomi Village park. You can either start the walk from Borjomi or take the car up to Sadgeri and walk down the hill to the river (around a 15 minutes walk)'. 

But is it hot? Sascha:

'The hot spring is in reality only a 28°C warm spring (at source), the pool water has only 26°C'. 

The experience. Sascha:

'The surrounding is beautiful but by far too overcrowded. It is therefore advisable to go there in the morning. It has more the character of a public swimming pool. An entrance fee of 5 Lari needs to be paid'.

There are more experiences to be had from Borjomi, much in the same vein: a fair walk to the rehabilitated pools which tend to be quite packed. Note that the changes to the pool and settings are of recent years, so if seeking to emulate an experience of say 5 years back: it's not going to happen.

Tripadvisor refers to this as Borjomi Sulfur Pools or more frequently Borjomi Central Park:

'Useful tip: visit sulfur bath early in a morning - 06:00-07:00, and you will enjoy it with only few people, after 10:00 - it will be disaster'.

A tough call

One of the reasons for maintaining this and associated blog is to broaden our knowledge of natural wellness opportunities and encourage their use. And hope that they remain publicy accessible without negative trashing the sites. 

More knowledge though may not always be a good thing. As with the increased information comes increased use. In many instances the freedom to use results in over-use and / or abuse. Clearly as a human species we have evolved, but not such that we can ourselves indicate when over-use and negatives of the over use kick in. And socially organize ourselves to keep public access and limit abuse. Hmmm.

But sometimes I also get it wrong.

Protection

High on my to-do list for years and years has been a visit to the mud baths of Espalmador. 

Espalmador is an island which lies close to the island of Formentera which (if still unknown) lies just southwest of the island of Ibiza, Spain. 

So it's all location, location here:
The southern most bay of Espalmador is reknown for it's brilliant white sands and clear blue waters. This in turn attracts a fair amount of sun / sea worshippers who wade the meter deep channel which separates Formentera from Espalmador. And this being all so close to the playground of the nouveau riche of Ibiza you'll find many a luxury yacht and their lesser cousin wannabees just lying idly in the bay of S'Alga (as the bay is officially called) itself.

The bay of S'Alga, Espalmador.

Espalmador is a privately owned island, which also falls somehow under the protection of the Ses Salines Natural Park, a safeguarded area covering the busy sea channel and islets between Ibiza and Formentera as well as the adjacent salt lakes of both islands. 
The Espalmador owners seemingly have little qualms about the above described daily invasion apparently, possibly relishing in the fact that outside this bay, the island remains largely deserted. Weighing out your options. 
It also seems difficult to dissuade the rich and famous from squatting on your door step ....

Making hey

The other actor in this play, is the island of Formentera. 

For decades Formentera was the destination of hippies and those seeking their holy grail: lying around on some of Europe's most beautiful and spectacular beaches. In boredom. 
Deliciously undeveloped, it was a haven for mostly cyclists who despite the camping ban were otherwise fine with staying in a local hut with the clear beaches never far away.

One of the hippy uses was the discovery of the use of natural mud on Espalmador. Having nothing else to do, they would consider a day of trekking out and wading accross to Espalmador to make use of it's mud bath as a day well spent. 

And to be honest it would have been. A couple hours on their way, an enjoyable slopping on of the mud followed by waiting for the mud to dry then washing it off and back to Formentera just on time for some tapas.

It would also be a great way for me to spend a day. 

With information slightly sketchy concerning the wading part, we decided to kayak ourselves there. 

That was a mistake. 

Leaving the small arrival port of La Savina on Formentera, one needs to cross the busy ferry channel with powerful catamarans servicing Formentera from Ibiza. Traversing this channel with a kayak is not a good way to do this; still nothing happened as most of our paddling happened during the siesta downtime, phew.

Coming closer to Espalmador, it's all attention to avoid a possible collision with the many luxury boats whiling away their day. 

We arrive on the south end, pretty busy as everybody there who has not come by boat has easily waded accross. So much for the unique experience!

The wading highway to Formentera.

While in the good old days, swimwear would have seemed to yet to be invented, nowadays a good pair of togs is essential: it's part of the culture to show you're in the upward mobile crowd yourself. That said, Formentera has not yet left it's hippy heyday totally behind it. So even though I'm one of the very few (un)dressed as a hippy, it's also very much acceptable. No batting an eyelid here.

Monstrous

A 15 minute walk along the bay, brings one to a major turn in the bay, as the sand beach itself ends. From here there's a sign board (see first photo) pointing towards the inland salt marsh. 

It's hot, hot hot, but 5 minutes later you are on the edge of the dry lake. The edge is delineated by a rope. 

Very near are the tempting tiny mud pools, possibly a dozen or so. No one is using them, but we had seen a couple before us return blackened, so they must have stepped beyond the rope. 
So should we. 

The mud is very luscious, black and reeks of sulphur. Good. 
The nearly dry pools are very salty. Good.
It only takes a minute or two to become a mud monster. Better.

 A mud monster in creation.

And so we return back to the seashore, looking hilariously weird to the other fashionista's. 
And though it might look tempting, there are precious few takers in the half hour as we slowly evolve from black to grey under the mid day sun. A rinse, a thorough wash and we can now walk and kayak the reverse path.

Permission
It's only a few days later when leaving Formentera I happen upon a brochure of said national park. It sternly states that it's not permitted:

'Bathing and use of the clay from S'Espalmador lagoon'.

So illegal. 
Surprisingly on official sites little is made of this, the park itself fails to list this nor does Formentera.es (the official tourism agency of Formentera) mention the forbidden nature of said mud bath.

In itself a good move, especially seeing how Formentera itself is becoming increasingly a destination for mass tourism.

But it's one thing to forbid, it's another to enforce this.
Certainly at the lagoon itself, other than a rope, there's little to indicate that it should not be done.

End of the trail?

One could also note that many a celebrity get away with taking a mud bath, Paris Hilton being one of the more recent celeb soakers muddying up (source).
Then there are still quite a few web sites which enthusiastically note the use of mud baths.
Natgeo (Oct 2014):

'Strip off on one of its white-sand beaches, wallow in the natural mud baths found in its centre, and pad about the tiny, uninhabited island of Espalmador, separated from Formentera by a sandbank'.

Firstchoice  (a website with a photo which is not of Espalmador):

'For a different sort of bathing – this time involving mud – regular ferries leave La Savina port, a 10-minute drive from Platja de Migjorn, to Espalmador. It’s a private island to the north, with pin-drop quiet beaches, no buildings, and no inhabitants. At its centre, there’s a natural mud bath where you can wallow like a blissed-out hippo. Let the mud dry before washing it off in the ocean. The kids will love it'.

SeeIbiza: 

'Sights & Attractions in Espalmador
One of the more popular reasons to visit the Island is the natural mud bath that can be found in the middle. On a wide salt plain you can spend your day wallowing in the cool mud pool, and then wash it off in the sea after! A great way to relax...although there are actually no known health benefits of the mud'.

Just to name a few.

As said official sources are rather inadequate. There is though of course the excellent formenteraguide:

'Some guide books suggest you can walk across the shallow waters that lap between Formentera and Espalmador, but this is extremely irresponsible advice. The name of the area between the two islands is Es Pas, which means the strait, and on a day when the waters are completely still and there is not a breeze in the air, then yes it is technically possible to walk across, but with even the slightest winds then it is a perilous journey.
...
Mud Baths
One of the delights on Espalmador is mud bathing. Right in the middle of this tranquil island is a natural mud bath that’s easy to find. Head along the far north end of Platja de s’Alga (s’Alga beach) and follow the narrow pathway through the scrubland that backs the beach. Finally you will emerge at a wide salt plain that has liquid mud at its centre. In years with light rainfall the sulphurous mud pond is dry across much of its four hectares.
Although it has no proven therapeutic benefits, on a hot sunny day there’s nothing nicer than wallowing in cooling mud! Let it dry as you walk back to the beach then dive into the clear sea to get clean. A great experience and the kids will love it!
A common sight is naturists emerging clothed in black mud, only to then wash it off in the ocean and appear naked once more. Unfortunately not all people treat the mud baths with respect – they throw mud at one another and the surrounding area. In the summer of 2009 this led to such significant damage that the baths were shut. With Espalmador a private island it is important to remember that access to it is a privilege, and the baths should be bathed in, not played in'.

Wikitravel is less clear:

'Espalmador also has the famous mud baths, however as of July 2010, visitors are greeted by two female guards who stopped everybody and instructed to only look, but not touch or try, because it belongs to a highly protected nature reserve'.

ibizaspotlight note the following:

'It's a dream for ornithologists, but please take note ladies and gents, mud-bathing is not permitted'.

Possibly it's more of a dream for birding in spring / autumn and/or winter, but not in summer when the lagoon simply has insufficient water to sustain any significant bird life.

According to this Dutch publication bathing in mud was forbidden since 2005 when estimates noted that 300 persons a day used the mud. 
The dairiodemallorca (19 Aug. 2012) experiences how the enforcement of these regulations are null and void. In the article it blames the tourism industry and the ineffective policing by local authorities.

The dairio de ibiza (14 Sep. 2014) notes how the owners are compelling authorities to take action beyond the simple rope. They also denounce many a tourist site which promotes the mud bathing. They mention that even though it's not allowed, up to 300 visitors still make use of the mud baths. 

Oddly they also repeat the often used counter-argument that there's no significant wellness benefit that has been scientifically proven. 

That doesn't have to mean that there's none. Speaking for myself, taking a mud bath is in itself a very pleasurable experience.

Blackened and all hanging out to dry ...

And thus we have the quandary: the use of mud pools in themselves are not a bad thing, but the whole scale en mass slopping oneself in mud does. So cut off the source? Is this the price for development? 

Surprisingly tripadvisor is yet to reach here. Odd.

There are a couple of Youtube vdo's of the experience, here is one.

At least if you want to repeat the experience, you now know it's a no-no. Unless you're one of the many not reading this blog ...