Warned

espacios_naturistas

Aguas sulfurosas saliendo de las rocas a 60 grados hacen que te puedas bañar en el río en cualquier época del año. Vaya un descubrimiento.Fotografía de @carlos290483

As the pandemic worries extend into a second European winter season, the past few months have not been very kind to the last remnants of our free and wild soaks. No need to remind you all, just look at the posts of the last couple of months.

However there is still more developments to share.

If you paid attention the last few weeks, most of the poor news came from France. Particularly the destruction of the Source Felix Croizat (b.t.w. here's a website with more historical background).  

Though there is also hope here. Apparently the local government that tore out the pools earlier this year, has now decided on an alternative plan which would see new construction of pools, but this time fenced, so at nighttime it can be locked. There is though doubt. The source itself sits within a no-construction / destruction natural zone with international status. 

In the meantime yet another makeshift pool has been composed by concerned locals. Keep on soaking.

In the overall discussion concerning this hot spring, I did come across this info on another free hot spring not too far away from above mentioned: Chateauneuf-les-Bains (Auvergne). 

Not really soakable, it does have a shallow basin in a public park. With temperature of 34-35°C. As can be expected, the majority of the two sources are syphoned off to the local thermal complex as well as to a bottling plant. This is where I delved the above info from.

Then to Austria. Europe's only natural and free and seasonal hot spring is likewise also under threat. Measures in the valley to protect flooding are rumoured to affect seasonal flows. A Change.org petition has been up and running hoping to ensure the seasonal hot spring will not go under as local authorities will see the light.

The soaking and wild swimming culture are very similar; though soaking has less opportunities whereas wild swimming is trending towards compulsive swimming rather than spiritual solace. 

But anyway. 

The Guardian reports (Aug. 26) on belated action concerning fertilizer run-off (a continent wide problem), but in this case Spain. And only after many fish in the Mar Menor (Murcia) wound up dead. Besides swimming the Mar Menor also offers excellent mud baths. However:

'Ecologists have warned for years that life in the lagoon is being suffocated by decades of nitrate-laden runoffs, mostly from agriculture, that trigger vast algae blooms – described as extreme eutrophication – that deplete the water of oxygen.
Wednesday’s ban on the use of inorganic nitrogen fertilisers within 1.5km of the lagoon was welcomed by ecologists, who have spent years calling for action. “We think it’s a good step but it comes very late,” said Sallent.
He called on the regional and central government to take urgent action, such as curbing the intensive agricultural practices of the area and creating wetlands around the lagoon that could act as “green filters”. Failure to do so risks incidents similar to that of the past week becoming more frequent.
“It’s unfortunate. This was a jewel, a singular site that at one point could have been a national park,” he said. “But instead, in the 1970s and 1980s, it bet on aggressive urban development and later intensive agriculture that was also very aggressive. They prioritised these economic sectors and they forgot the environment.”

It's odd that protecting the environment always ends up playing second fiddle to economic plundering. How long can we still use our natural waters?

Perceptions
Thus we come to the now-for-something-different section. And hopefully not too far away from the soaking culture.

Last year, Oslo's art and event center (SALT; complete with sauna) had an exhibition named Sweat. Translated:

'The artist behind the latest art installation at Salt is Mikkel Aaland (b. 1952), a San Francisco-based photographer, filmmaker and artist. In collaboration between Aaland and SALT, we have hung up more than a hundred different towels in the Arctic Pyramid.
Sauna enthusiasts from all over the world have contributed towels, personalized them with art, words and their actual sweat to our celebration of the world's well-being. Along with towels from countries such as Turkey, Japan, Italy, Australia, Russia and Mexico, Aaland's own towels with printed photographs from his world visit are also in search of the perfect sweat. Each towel represents a moment when someone leaves the stress of modern times behind and prioritizes health and well-being. Contrary to the contemporary perception of sweat, it has had magical connotations for traditional societies'.

I believe in the past (March 2018) I may have referred to Irish sweathouses. Very recently BBC has an article (Oct. 18) on these:

'Malone [Leitrim County Council Heritage Officer Sarah Malone] their aim was to identify and demystify these timeworn structures, which are scattered across Ireland and were used as a sort of extreme stone sauna from the early 1600s to the early 1900s. She said they had so far recorded more than 100 sweathouses in Leitrim alone – more than anywhere else in Ireland, and a staggering concentration given that this tiny Greater London-sized county is home to fewer than 35,000 people'.

Out of faith for quite some time (150+ years?) these were mainly built and maintained in areas with poor access to health facilities / know-how. They are believed to have come into existence organically and rely on raised atmospheric temperature to induce a sweat which assists in improving blood circulation and filtering out toxins (as the article states).

Lonely Planet also has an article (Sep. 9) on Europe's Best hot springs. Pretty much drawn up from all over Europe, there are just 1 or 2 free soaks to be had on the list; many though require splashing the cash.

Travel Tomorrow (Sep. 29, 2020) has 5 naturist-friendly thermal spas in Europe:

In many European countries, nudity inside spas is the rule and not the exception. Of course, you can wrap yourself in a towel or wear a robe when walking around, but you’re not allowed to wear any kind of swimming suite. So forget your swimwear and jump into one of these naturist thermal spas!

Note that what they don't mention is that these natural thermal spas are not so thermal; some of them  don't even have any access to natural waters!

tumimii

Dulces termas☺

#trip #happy #amazing #nature #hotsprings #termas [] #spain #backpacker #mountains #lake #water #picoftheday #naked #beautiful #lovetotravel #aragon #goodvibes #therapy 

While we are heading down this lane, I might as well bring up an article (Jan. 13) by the excellent Nakedwanderings bloggers concerning etiquette at Europe's spa's:

'Many naturists take their first steps into social nudity at the nude beach. But in parts of western Europe, another phenomenon is quickly becoming the new number one place where people get naked with strangers for the first time. Or even with friends. Especially in countries like Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands, the wellness or spa center has proven to be a great stepping stone for naturism.

Of course, these countries are not particularly known for having year-round great weather and perfect nude beach days are rather limited. Spa centers, on the other hand, are great to visit on a rainy day. With lots of indoor facilities to keep you warm. And even on sunny days, the outside pools are refreshing and the garden is excellent for working on your tan without sand crawling into places where it’s not supposed to be'.

It does need to be noted that the sauna culture works often contradictory to the general (beach) culture. For instance, all spa's in France are very much clothed de rigueur.

Another snippet from the article:

'Ever seen a very upset naked European? Try leaving the door of the sauna open after you exit. It takes a while to heat these things up, so warmth is very precious. If you hear someone yelling “this is not a church!”, it means that you didn’t close the door fast enough'.

Busted
The culture shock area. 

Germany's sauna culture once again dishes up a haunting experience. Wanderinggermany (Sep. 8):

The little board stated nonchalantly that I was entering a naked German sauna- no exceptions! It was nude or bust (no pun intended). As I glanced down at the sign and then timidly back up to the Saunahof, it was as if being naked in the sauna was absolutely no big deal to everyone wandering around inside. Apparently, for a sauna in Germany, it wasn’t. But for this little American girl….I wasn’t so sure!

Luckily, I’ve always been a bit hippy footloose and fancy-free. And when it comes to travel, I say, “Hey, when in Rome….well, Germany!”

So, off went the suit and into the German Sauna baths I went!!!

Despite the shreiks and shocks, a good and informative article. 

silvatica__

Giorno 5: bagni silvatici 🌿🛁

 []  #termenaturali #naturelovers #visittuscany #toscananelcuore

Wanderingcarol (Sep. 19) visits the thermal baths of Baden-Baden:

'If you visit Friedrichsbad, you’ll be shedding your aches, and also your clothes. Yes, the Friedrichsbad bath experience is completely without clothes. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it.

...

Today the bath circuit at the Friedrichsbad spa is a 17-step wellness ritual of dry air bathing, steaming, soaking and being pummelled and scrubbed with a brush – all while being very very naked.

It’s a dream of a building. You’ll be sweating amidst richly-painted tiles and a Beaux Arts dome, but clothing is not an option.

And don’t expect to get dressed again for awhile – the complete bathing process takes more than three hours. It also includes views of the opposite sex you might not want to see.

Yes, in addition to being naked at the spa, you’ll have the pleasure of being in mixed company.

...

The lack of restrictive clothing means better circulation for you. And don’t worry, the atmosphere at the Friedrichsbad baths is anything but wild. It’s more like being in a temple dedicated to water.

After all, being nude is all part of the German spa experience, especially in the saunas where clothing is often forbidden. (I should know. I’ve been kicked out for wearing a bathing suit, and learned my lesson fast.)Avoid my mistakes and read my guide on German sauna culture, and while you’re at it, don’t miss these essential rules of sauna safety.

While there’s no escaping nudity at the Friedrichsbad Roman Irish bath, it does elevate a mineral bath into an adventure – maybe that’s why it’s the best-known Baden-Baden spa of all'.

Rachelsruminations looks (Aug.?) at the European soaking society; but that of the late 19th century:

'All over Europe in the 19th century, nobles and royals traveled to European hot springs to “take the waters.” Many of these thermal towns are still spa towns today, and they’ve united as part of the European Historic Thermal Towns Association, (EHTTA) one of the Council of Europe’s Cultural Routes'.

She visits a few German spa's and has more recently published 23 fun facts about Wiesbaden which include 10 about the hot springs of this city.

Revealations

We are now heading into south-eastern Europe.

Lonely Planet (Sep. 20) has put online an article on Budapest's thermal leisure sites:

'Following an unprecedented four-month closure to all of the city’s pools due to COVID-19, Budapest’s thermal baths are now reopen and back in business. Don’t get your towel in a twist deciding where to go, we’ve tried the lot—from the city’s 16th-century Turkish baths to Széchenyi Baths' "Sparty" nights (spa-party, geddit?!!)—and can now reveal all.

Here's the naked truth about Budapest’s thermal baths: Everything you wanted to know (but were too self-conscious to ask)'.

Though it covers many aspects, despite the titillating title and above potential, naturalistic soakers need to heed this:

'Nudity is not permitted in the public areas at any of the thermal baths'.

Ukraine. 10 best hot springs in Transcarpathia (Jun. 26), all very much developed and well visited though.

anastasia_guk15 at Chans - Lumsory (one of the highlighted soaks):

•Feel it and enjoy• ⛰

Kostenurka (Apr. 2) visits the Bulgarian hot springs of Rupite:

'But behind the fence there are thermal lakes in which people sit in the open air. Returning to the car, we moved along the right road to the next parking lot. There is a simple bathing house with swimming pools and recreation areas. Entrance fee is 3 levs (1.5 euros).

And since at the moment all the spas and pools are closed due to a lockdown, everyone is basking in the wild baths. Behind the lakes, there is an unofficial camping site and people in swimsuits and robes constantly come from there.

...

I very carefully dipped my hand into one of the pools - the temperature to the touch was much higher than +40. Like an incredibly hot bath. And people go and go, in bathrobes, in swimsuits from cars and from the camping. They sit down in the lakes, smear themselves with white clay ... Changing rooms and benches are installed near the lakes, everything for comfort even in a "wild" place'.

The excellent World Thermal Springs undertook a recent soaking sojourn to Bulgaria. My admiration to their whirlwind tour: sometimes up to 5 resorts are visited daily. All quite staid though. They also did visit Rupite (Oct. 9).

Getting muddy in Bulgaria. A Danish article (Vesterbroliv, Sep. 27) concerning a visit to Burgas and around. Google's translation is gibberish though. So just a photo then:

More mud to finish off with. Things to do in Kavala (Greek Macedonia)? Midnightblueelephant (Nov. 2020):

'To my utter surprise, the mud bathing [at Krinides] wasn’t done in a bathtub of sorts but in a huge pool of mud. Men and women are separated and there are various grid steps that you can access the pool with, which come in handy getting rid of the big chunks when you leave.

The mud itself feels weird in the best way possible. You float, you move in slow motion and it took me a moment to get over feeling a bit claustrophobic. After a while, I copied the other bathers, held on to a rope, and floated on my back.

THESE LADIES WERE AN ABSOLUTE HOOT. I ASKED FOR PERMISSION TO TAKE SOME PHOTOS, NOT THINKING IT WOULD BE GRANTED BUT THEY LOVED IT AND WOULDN’T STOP POSING'.

Dirty

The second part of Sascha's Azerbaijan journey. 
He now reports on the mud volcanoes, located a lot closer to the nations's capital of Baku. 

Sascha:

"The mud volcanoes are not real hot springs but none the less worth a mention. A visit is very touristic because they are only 60 km from Baku.

The highway to Qobustan is quite straightforward, but finding the volcanoes is particularly difficult. On internet (or in the Trescher Guidebook for Azerbaijan) the GPS coordinates are mentioned. Otherwise you will be obliged to pay for a taxi driver or a guide to show you the mud volcanoes. It seems that the absence of indications is purposely to provide some income to local taxi's who are waiting at the entrance of the park. 
But without GPS data and local help it is impossible to find the volcanoes.

Most of the people just take some pictures and leave the volcanoes after 10 minutes. As the mud has positive effects for the skin and the body, you should nevertheless benefit from a unique experience and take a soak. 
Take pictures before soaking, after the soak you are too dirty. 
 
The mud is not hot, but neither cold; I would estimate about 25°C. 
Due to the high mineralization, there is a floating effect similar to the Dead Sea.

 

From the volcano, you can see a small round lake with the possibility to clean yourself. 
Another smaller lake with cleaner water can be found further down the hill. Anyhow, I did not get 100% clean; so it is advisable to wear old clothes and protect the car seats and bring a towel with you that you do not need anymore".

Bubbly
More info gleamed from our never-ending source of info.
Wikipedia has a special page on mud volcanoes in Azerbaijan:

'Azerbaijan has the most mud volcanoes of any country, spread broadly across the country. 350 of the 800 volcanoes of the world are in the Azerbaijani Republic. Local people call them “yanardagh” (burning mountain), “pilpila” (terrace), “gaynacha” (boiling water) and “bozdag” (grey mountain) alongside its geographical name – mud volcanoes'.

On Qobustan itself Wikipedia notes:

'Qobustan (also, Duvannaya, Duvanny, Duvannyy, Duyannaya, and Gobustan [!]) is a settlement and municipality in Baku, Azerbaijan. It has a population of 14,470'.

While the mud volcanoes themselves are located in Qobustan National Park.
Wikipedia:

'Gobustan State Reserve located west of the settlement of Gobustan, about 40 miles (64 km) southwest of the centre of Baku was established in 1966 when the region was declared as a national historical landmark of Azerbaijan in an attempt to preserve the ancient carvings, mud volcanoes and gas-stones in the region.
...
Mud volcanoes
It's estimated that 300 of the planet's estimated 700 mud volcanoes sit in Gobustan, Azerbaijan and the Caspian Sea Many geologists as well as locals and international mud tourists trek to such places as the Firuz Crater, Gobustan, Salyan and end up happily covered in mud which is thought to have medicinal qualities. In 2001 one mud volcano 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from Baku made world headlines when it suddenly started spewing flames 15 metres (49 ft) high'.

Seems a slight mismatch with other info likewise found on Wikipedia. But let's reckon that a significant amount of the earths mud volcanoes can be found near Qobustan. 

How about the rating of a visit? Tripadvisor dolls out 4.5 stars (207 reviews), while google gives a visit 4,6 from 46 reviews.

Another first hand experience by dark-tourism by^:

^'The mud volcanoes of Qobustan are not the biggest specimens of their kind, but they are fascinating all the same. In fact, their comparatively small size has the advantage that you can get right up close – you can even touch the mud if you like (it's indeed just cold mud, as I can testify). The best bit, however, is just watching the bubbly action. And listening to it. Many of these flatulent little vents make rather suggestive noises.

How much action there will be at any given time will vary a bit, but at the very least you should be able to see some bursting gas bubbles and spluttering ejections of mud from the more virile volcano vents.

Most of them are on the top of cones some 10 to 15 feet (3 to 5 metres) high, but there is also one flat, almost perfectly circular mud lake a bit off the mud volcano cones proper.  

And if you're really into mud, you can even do so literally: go into the mud that is, namely in that same said mud lake, and wallow about in it. I've not done it myself but have seen video clips online of some quite astonishing mud-bathing – with one person even completely submersing herself in the mud only to suddenly come out looking like some horror movie zombie …

A clip:

Finally traveltoe adds:

'By reaching the Mud volcanoes, you'll see this unique wonder and not only touch, but also dive into this healing mud. Having fun with mud volcano will continue with salty lake swimming, and having cold local beer with some snacks'.

A tough call

One of the reasons for maintaining this and associated blog is to broaden our knowledge of natural wellness opportunities and encourage their use. And hope that they remain publicy accessible without negative trashing the sites. 

More knowledge though may not always be a good thing. As with the increased information comes increased use. In many instances the freedom to use results in over-use and / or abuse. Clearly as a human species we have evolved, but not such that we can ourselves indicate when over-use and negatives of the over use kick in. And socially organize ourselves to keep public access and limit abuse. Hmmm.

But sometimes I also get it wrong.

Protection

High on my to-do list for years and years has been a visit to the mud baths of Espalmador. 

Espalmador is an island which lies close to the island of Formentera which (if still unknown) lies just southwest of the island of Ibiza, Spain. 

So it's all location, location here:
The southern most bay of Espalmador is reknown for it's brilliant white sands and clear blue waters. This in turn attracts a fair amount of sun / sea worshippers who wade the meter deep channel which separates Formentera from Espalmador. And this being all so close to the playground of the nouveau riche of Ibiza you'll find many a luxury yacht and their lesser cousin wannabees just lying idly in the bay of S'Alga (as the bay is officially called) itself.

The bay of S'Alga, Espalmador.

Espalmador is a privately owned island, which also falls somehow under the protection of the Ses Salines Natural Park, a safeguarded area covering the busy sea channel and islets between Ibiza and Formentera as well as the adjacent salt lakes of both islands. 
The Espalmador owners seemingly have little qualms about the above described daily invasion apparently, possibly relishing in the fact that outside this bay, the island remains largely deserted. Weighing out your options. 
It also seems difficult to dissuade the rich and famous from squatting on your door step ....

Making hey

The other actor in this play, is the island of Formentera. 

For decades Formentera was the destination of hippies and those seeking their holy grail: lying around on some of Europe's most beautiful and spectacular beaches. In boredom. 
Deliciously undeveloped, it was a haven for mostly cyclists who despite the camping ban were otherwise fine with staying in a local hut with the clear beaches never far away.

One of the hippy uses was the discovery of the use of natural mud on Espalmador. Having nothing else to do, they would consider a day of trekking out and wading accross to Espalmador to make use of it's mud bath as a day well spent. 

And to be honest it would have been. A couple hours on their way, an enjoyable slopping on of the mud followed by waiting for the mud to dry then washing it off and back to Formentera just on time for some tapas.

It would also be a great way for me to spend a day. 

With information slightly sketchy concerning the wading part, we decided to kayak ourselves there. 

That was a mistake. 

Leaving the small arrival port of La Savina on Formentera, one needs to cross the busy ferry channel with powerful catamarans servicing Formentera from Ibiza. Traversing this channel with a kayak is not a good way to do this; still nothing happened as most of our paddling happened during the siesta downtime, phew.

Coming closer to Espalmador, it's all attention to avoid a possible collision with the many luxury boats whiling away their day. 

We arrive on the south end, pretty busy as everybody there who has not come by boat has easily waded accross. So much for the unique experience!

The wading highway to Formentera.

While in the good old days, swimwear would have seemed to yet to be invented, nowadays a good pair of togs is essential: it's part of the culture to show you're in the upward mobile crowd yourself. That said, Formentera has not yet left it's hippy heyday totally behind it. So even though I'm one of the very few (un)dressed as a hippy, it's also very much acceptable. No batting an eyelid here.

Monstrous

A 15 minute walk along the bay, brings one to a major turn in the bay, as the sand beach itself ends. From here there's a sign board (see first photo) pointing towards the inland salt marsh. 

It's hot, hot hot, but 5 minutes later you are on the edge of the dry lake. The edge is delineated by a rope. 

Very near are the tempting tiny mud pools, possibly a dozen or so. No one is using them, but we had seen a couple before us return blackened, so they must have stepped beyond the rope. 
So should we. 

The mud is very luscious, black and reeks of sulphur. Good. 
The nearly dry pools are very salty. Good.
It only takes a minute or two to become a mud monster. Better.

 A mud monster in creation.

And so we return back to the seashore, looking hilariously weird to the other fashionista's. 
And though it might look tempting, there are precious few takers in the half hour as we slowly evolve from black to grey under the mid day sun. A rinse, a thorough wash and we can now walk and kayak the reverse path.

Permission
It's only a few days later when leaving Formentera I happen upon a brochure of said national park. It sternly states that it's not permitted:

'Bathing and use of the clay from S'Espalmador lagoon'.

So illegal. 
Surprisingly on official sites little is made of this, the park itself fails to list this nor does Formentera.es (the official tourism agency of Formentera) mention the forbidden nature of said mud bath.

In itself a good move, especially seeing how Formentera itself is becoming increasingly a destination for mass tourism.

But it's one thing to forbid, it's another to enforce this.
Certainly at the lagoon itself, other than a rope, there's little to indicate that it should not be done.

End of the trail?

One could also note that many a celebrity get away with taking a mud bath, Paris Hilton being one of the more recent celeb soakers muddying up (source).
Then there are still quite a few web sites which enthusiastically note the use of mud baths.
Natgeo (Oct 2014):

'Strip off on one of its white-sand beaches, wallow in the natural mud baths found in its centre, and pad about the tiny, uninhabited island of Espalmador, separated from Formentera by a sandbank'.

Firstchoice  (a website with a photo which is not of Espalmador):

'For a different sort of bathing – this time involving mud – regular ferries leave La Savina port, a 10-minute drive from Platja de Migjorn, to Espalmador. It’s a private island to the north, with pin-drop quiet beaches, no buildings, and no inhabitants. At its centre, there’s a natural mud bath where you can wallow like a blissed-out hippo. Let the mud dry before washing it off in the ocean. The kids will love it'.

SeeIbiza: 

'Sights & Attractions in Espalmador
One of the more popular reasons to visit the Island is the natural mud bath that can be found in the middle. On a wide salt plain you can spend your day wallowing in the cool mud pool, and then wash it off in the sea after! A great way to relax...although there are actually no known health benefits of the mud'.

Just to name a few.

As said official sources are rather inadequate. There is though of course the excellent formenteraguide:

'Some guide books suggest you can walk across the shallow waters that lap between Formentera and Espalmador, but this is extremely irresponsible advice. The name of the area between the two islands is Es Pas, which means the strait, and on a day when the waters are completely still and there is not a breeze in the air, then yes it is technically possible to walk across, but with even the slightest winds then it is a perilous journey.
...
Mud Baths
One of the delights on Espalmador is mud bathing. Right in the middle of this tranquil island is a natural mud bath that’s easy to find. Head along the far north end of Platja de s’Alga (s’Alga beach) and follow the narrow pathway through the scrubland that backs the beach. Finally you will emerge at a wide salt plain that has liquid mud at its centre. In years with light rainfall the sulphurous mud pond is dry across much of its four hectares.
Although it has no proven therapeutic benefits, on a hot sunny day there’s nothing nicer than wallowing in cooling mud! Let it dry as you walk back to the beach then dive into the clear sea to get clean. A great experience and the kids will love it!
A common sight is naturists emerging clothed in black mud, only to then wash it off in the ocean and appear naked once more. Unfortunately not all people treat the mud baths with respect – they throw mud at one another and the surrounding area. In the summer of 2009 this led to such significant damage that the baths were shut. With Espalmador a private island it is important to remember that access to it is a privilege, and the baths should be bathed in, not played in'.

Wikitravel is less clear:

'Espalmador also has the famous mud baths, however as of July 2010, visitors are greeted by two female guards who stopped everybody and instructed to only look, but not touch or try, because it belongs to a highly protected nature reserve'.

ibizaspotlight note the following:

'It's a dream for ornithologists, but please take note ladies and gents, mud-bathing is not permitted'.

Possibly it's more of a dream for birding in spring / autumn and/or winter, but not in summer when the lagoon simply has insufficient water to sustain any significant bird life.

According to this Dutch publication bathing in mud was forbidden since 2005 when estimates noted that 300 persons a day used the mud. 
The dairiodemallorca (19 Aug. 2012) experiences how the enforcement of these regulations are null and void. In the article it blames the tourism industry and the ineffective policing by local authorities.

The dairio de ibiza (14 Sep. 2014) notes how the owners are compelling authorities to take action beyond the simple rope. They also denounce many a tourist site which promotes the mud bathing. They mention that even though it's not allowed, up to 300 visitors still make use of the mud baths. 

Oddly they also repeat the often used counter-argument that there's no significant wellness benefit that has been scientifically proven. 

That doesn't have to mean that there's none. Speaking for myself, taking a mud bath is in itself a very pleasurable experience.

Blackened and all hanging out to dry ...

And thus we have the quandary: the use of mud pools in themselves are not a bad thing, but the whole scale en mass slopping oneself in mud does. So cut off the source? Is this the price for development? 

Surprisingly tripadvisor is yet to reach here. Odd.

There are a couple of Youtube vdo's of the experience, here is one.

At least if you want to repeat the experience, you now know it's a no-no. Unless you're one of the many not reading this blog ...

Ephemeral or sustainable soaking?

Nothing happening at Eleftheron

 

Great
Sometimes things don't work out. Having, developing, maintaining and keeping a hot spring site fresh is ... well, actually not too difficult a task. 
But failures are for those to see. Sometimes, things just don't work out.

Eleftheron (Elefteron or Eleftheres (named after the former municipality) or Ελευθερών) is apparently well known as the great Greek from Macedonia (Alexander) stopped off here roughly 2,000 years ago and took to the waters. At least, so goes the story. But in Greek Macedonia, many of the historical claims to fame start and stop at Alex the Great. Busy bloke.

Located in the municipality of Pangaio (Kavala region, northern Greece), there's not a village anywhere nearby. Rather it's a turn off the seaside highway, between the towns Orfani and Nea Paramos. 
The turn-off is just before where the road crosses the Marmaras river (if coming from the west). 

Well indicated (see photo above), once off the highway, things turn eerie. There's evidence of past opulence: the approximately 1 km drive between the highway and the entrance gates to the former spa resort are lined with a real pavement and lantern posts, possibly suggesting past guests to seek the sea for more soaking.

Dilapidation

Once through the gates, one comes to a number of buildings. Many buildings. But all have in common the same slow time-induced dilapidation. One could also say a modern day ruin. Victim of the crisis?

Another two cars are parked nearby (lead photo) and I also see two motorcycles. And a couple of friendly dogs. Nothing happening here.

We park our car and walk around to see what or if something is happening. To the left looks like what used to be the main building, to the right a bathing building? Beyond there's a small bridge straddling the river. From the bridge one sees a pipe emanating from the aforementioned likely bathing building, suggesting that yes, this could be the former bath house.

Crossing the bridge: on the right a hot spring?

Beyond the bridge on the other bank of the Marmaras river are a line of former apartments / hotel rooms. Or so it once seemed (see following photo below).

Soaking Satisfaction
We backtrack and follow the river upstream along a track. 

Not much further ahead we spot another car parked on the track. Three ladies are standing around, apparently having just bathed evidenced by wet hair towel wraps. 
Beyond the parked car and soaked ladies is something that might once have been a bath. Or not. 
The area surrounding this pond is dirty; providing ample evidence of popular use (many a candle) but the pond itself is clear and clean. 

As we seem to be the only ones around (the nearby ladies have just sped off) we undress and lower ourselves into the moderately hot waters. 
What a delight, to soak in daylight, au-naturel with only nature around us. Birds are chirping, the river is gushing. No other sounds.

  

Another satisfied soaker 

Until a car comes up behind us. A lady steps out and politely asks how long are we going to stay (point towards non-existent watch). In response to our 10 minutes she retreats to her car and waits patiently for us to finish the soak. Apparently the custom is to park the car on the track thus signalling the next in line that the spring is occupied. Imposing on others is frowned on? Gracious?

After redressing we return to our car, parked near the buildings. We explore the building where we previously saw water rushing from. 
Inside there are a number of small stalls each containing a bath tub. None have seen use since.  Since a long time. 
At the end of the silent hall, a door opens up to a large 4 by 4 m tub. Water is rushing in. Despite the buildings slowly caving in, this tub is still in use, looks good enough to go.

But if need be, the outside tub would be your preferred choice for a soak.

Once was the preference?

Illing
This site volunteers this info on the Eleftheron of the past:

'The waters' temperature varies from 36 to 42 Celsius and there are private or common baths and pools.The water is rich in sulfur sources therefore ideal for muscle-skeletal disorders (osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, back pain, etc.) and skin disorders as well.The water therapy is suitable for treating asthma and chronic obstructive pulmonary diseases'.

The pleasurable Kairos Garden Hotel, roughly 20 km's toward Kavala just outside the quaint village of Eleftheres, has more practical info of the past:

'Today, the place contains of three springs, with temperature from 36 to 41 degrees Celsius. As a beginner, you start with a fifteen minutes dip in the coldest bath, which is situated in the building on the top picture. Here you have your own private cabinet with a huge bath tub, where you lie for the required time under running water.

The waters contains sulphate and other minerals and have a proved positive effect on rheumatism, arthritis and muscle pains.

In Greece it's common the the doctor will write you a prescription to mineral bath for several health problems.

My mother in law used to come here for a couple of weeks every year, taking healing baths for all her pains and aches twice a day. She used to stay in the hotel and this was her annual "housewife" holiday, where she´d meet the same people year after year.

The location also has a restaurant and from time to time an orchestra comes to play - as no Greek will ever be to ill to dance!'

Hard to imagine. Though even this website experience by Txominn creeds:

'Following the course of the river to get to the birth of one of these springs where there are stairs leading to a small tub. The setting is spectacular, and the atmosphere is authentic in his tavern. When we were there, people were eating, at one point got up and started dancing rebetika'.

Posted in 2009, he also adds four photo's and a video (of the dancing!). What has happened since?

 

Better days: an aerial overview of the bathing complex, looking back over the apartments towards the baths. Source

Again from 2009 there was this experience, when the resort was still in operation Translated with google from Spanish:

'It was a wonderful experience. It is a beautiful spot crossed by a river where it takes several sulfur springs that flow at 42 degrees. There is an area where you can swim in these waters free, and where they have 40 spa tubs and a large pool. In the tavern opposite the resort enjoy an authentic Greek atmosphere. There had been sitting at the table several families having fun dancing to the sound of rebetika musicians that played after dinner'.

Greek language website Thermalsprings.gr mentions temperatures of 40 - 52 °C and:

'The abundant hot mineral waters gush in used since Roman times. It survives in good condition a domed Byzantine bath'.

This website then adds a little context:

'A vault­ed Byzantine bath is saved in a relatively good condition'.

I wonder where this bath may be, did not discover it ...
Meanwhile another source, Gay Greece mentions: 

'Situated near the main road from Kavala from Thessaloniki, 46 km from Kavala. In panels for Thermals, go straight and after 1-2 kms before a abandoned small outpost, turn right on a dirt road leading to the beach. Hang straight & gay nudists'.

! 

Feeling gay? Certainly looks like it. 

Photo from Mano Kouri's collection named Greece Natural Spa's. Caption: 

'MKGR_SP_095439 Greek Spas Kavala, Eleftheres, young woman bathes in the healing mineral water'.

By the way did you know that Greece has one of the longest recorded histories of soaking in hot springs [1]?  

Stand. Off.
Then I found this which sort of sums up current day stand-off (the link dates to October 2012). With some assistance from google translate [sic] I found out the following:
There is a Citizens' Initiative for Saving Baths Eleftheron which questions authorities objectives for the future of Eleftheron. Apparently the objective is to invite an investor who will be given the free hand in developing and upgrading the hot springs to a (medical) center with 80 beds alongside a four star hotel with same capacity.
The initiative wants to know the terms of the deal between the local government and Kinisis SA (a not so internet savvy company), for safeguards protecting the archeological significance of the current buildings and to ensure local (and public) access to the hot springs (site). 
It also notes: 

'In the area of ​​the baths are now 31 buildings. The oldest is an Ottoman stone bathroom, with a dome, which dates from the late 18th century and has been declared a protected monument. The sources of [Eleftheron], although known since ancient times, developed into a modern spa space 1908-1910 and fortunate their design takes one of the major architects of the interwar Greeks, Aristotle A. Zachos.  
...
This is underlined by the intelligent design of Aristotelis Zachos, early 20th century, is in danger once again razed by bulldozers uncontrolled "growth" and the ephemeral private profit. Allow this?'

Another website follows with the same intent but comes with a clearer call for a  no to the sale of the Eleftheron baths. The website is also dated from October 2012.

The above clearly shows the levels of local resistance to yet again wishing a bag load of money will help your with your problems. It won't. It's like hoping for Ferrari when all you can afford is a Dacia. And note the Dacia will do the work.

Within a 2 hour drive of Greek Macedonia's major population center, Thessaloniki, there are at least 15 different soaking sites, not counting the two mud bathing centers :
Nea Apollinia
Nigrita
Loutra Pozar (Loutraki)
Loutrohori
Agristo
Langadas
Thermi
Souroti
Megali Vrisi
Sidorokastro
Nea Kassani
Agia Paraskevi
Karitsa
Doumpia

With the exception of Loutra Pozar which is located in an area of outstanding beauty (and manages to keep soaking more or less natural) and Agristro where historic references and easy access to the masses help, all other thermal sites are alike: all fishing in the pond of elderly and hopefully affluent customers. 
This pond isn't growing nor are there any new customers incoming for which a random soak can turn into a liftime of soaking commitment.
Too often these types of resorts are besieged with rules and advisory commands coupled with hefty fees for as much as breathing that any under fifty year old would flee the place.

With this in mind, any investor would be crazy to invest heavily in making this a ***** place. It costs a lot, competition is fierce, visitors incomes are dropping and the need to maintain standards year after year to keep the ***** status are heavy. 

Better is to start in reverse. Spruce the place up a bit, charge low entry fees and slowly and holistically expand on this. Tempt a younger crowd, in Europe there's hardly any competition / nor locally.

Look at for instance popular soaking destinations globally ...

Diversions

Besides the hot springs, this lonely stretch of highway passes many a deserted sandy beach. Sometimes denoted as Ammolofoi beaches, Captain Barefoot even mentions that not so far away may even be a (legal?) clothing optional beach. Closer to either towns mentioned earlier there are even amenities on the beach during high season: what's a beach without loud music and even louder crowds?

 

A great soaker combo is to seek the mountains of Pangaio. Especially the village of Mesoropi lies well nestled between the mountains and has a well maintained path leading half way up the mountain to where the local stream gushes forth from a huge slab of rock (3 hours). Mesoropi is about half an hours drive away. Careful for the unbelievable steep streets!

Closer to the village the same stream has many a pond with waterfalls of varying height. A great way to start your day.

Besides beaches and mountains, Kavala region contains some other interesting touristic features. Kavala town itself is a very interesting place and perched neatly between the mountains, the sea and a big rock. A historic old town sits on a promontory jutting out into sea in the direction of island of Thassos. Before this is a broad waterfront. Connecting the old town and the mountainous hinterland is large aquaduct which cuts straight through the city.

 

Modern day Kavala from the town's castle.

Then towards Drama region (but still in Kavala) are the ancient ruins of Philippi: a Greek - Roman - Byzantine army complex. One of the best remains in northern Greece.

 Philippi amphitheatre

Non-resistable

Closeby Philippi are the mud baths of Krinides (Krynides, ΚΡΗΝΙΔΕΣ) or sometimes referred to by Lydia. The website has much info, unfortunatly none accesible for google translate!

As opposed to Eleftheron, Krinides is apparently wonderfully run by the local council. These thermal mud baths are slowly becoming a major draw of themselves as they gain acceptance and acclamations for their first class mud. Do note that the thermality is not such that these can be enjoyed year round; when visiting here in May they were not opened. The mud bathing saeson is from June to mid-October.

From www.pilotherapia.gr flickr site.

'The amazing qualities of mud are well known in the region since late 19th century at the latest, as demonstrates an old building still standing near the spas'. (source) 

Thermalgreece.com:

'The therapeutic properties of Krinides mud were known from antiquity. There are uncountable tributes and testimonies that support the fact that the mud baths in Krinides can heal people from a number of ailmentssuch as chronic diseases and pain. The combination of therapeutic mud with the curative thermal water of the region of Krinides is the outcome of the geological diversity of the land that beneficially compensates its visitors in abundance'.

From Sojna on virtualtourist: 

'This is a very special experience and you should be prepared to surrender to the healing qualities of mother earth! The therapeutic clay of Krinides is well known by the end of last century, for its beneficial effects to the skin, as well as to almost all body systems. The clay is located in a natural cavity, in the plain of Plilippoi, where you are supposed to sink slowly, along with the other bathers, most of them of elderly age. Men and women bath separately and there is a very relaxed and pleasant atmosphere between the bathers. The rest of the facilities (dressing rooms, hot showers etc) are very clean and well-preserved and there is also a camping, hotel and rooms for accommodation.
The whole experience can be really pleasant for open-minded travelers, who wouldn’t mind taking a special and economical (if I am not wrong, it costs only 7 euros) spa treatment! Notice the little frogs that watch you curiously, while bathing!'

This German visitor [translated]:

'The whole thing costs almost nothing: The ticket prices in 2009 for the mud bath were around 6 euros per person. A massage is also affordable. Are you insured abroad, you can use your health insurance will get back the amount incurred possibly after consultation

...

On the edge of a natural bog pond is a low rise building. Are here - separately for men and women - housed changing rooms and showers. Even a doctor is present in an adjoining room, and can be called if necessary.The pond is also divided in the middle, a screen was protected from prying eyes.

To reiterate very clearly: You should not have special requirements here. Nothing of what you see here is, as in Germany in a comparable institution. But you will enjoy the old world charm of a historic site, hear the crickets chirping in the bath and gaze at the same mountains that has seen Alexander the Great about 2370 years ahead of you'.

More info on the very helpful Hotel Yannis. There are also a number of youtube video's of the mud baths.

Notes:

[1] Erfurt-Cooper, P., Cooper, M. (2009) Health and Wellness Tourism: Spas and Hot Springs. Aspects of Tourism 40. Channel View Publications, Bristol, United Kingdom. 

 

A parting shot, another happy soaker (source):  

'Λουτρά Ελευθερών, 2010'