Primal soaking

The areas of land along the stretches of water between mainland Greece and the northern part of Evia island (let's say North Euboean Gulf / Malian Gulf) host quite a few hot springs. Some are lesser known and others (such as Aidipsos) attracting quite some fame (and fortune to the tourism sector).

However the prime soak of this area is yet to be highlighted here. 

The village of Thermopylae translates as hot gates and may well have been the entrance to the caves of Hades, God of the underworld and thus of the souls of the Dead.

Though the hot spring gives the village this awe inspiring name, it's the terrain around Thermopylae what has brought the village more fame. 
The single lane village now lies quite some distance from sea, as the shore line progresses seawards each year due to sedimentation. But back more than 2000 years ago, there was little land between the Gulf of Malia and the Kallidromo mountains. This gave the area huge strategic significance, and Thermopylae has borne witness to a number of battles, none the more significant than the Battle of ... Thermopylae. 
The Battle witnessed a Persian army held up for quite some time by a relative small number of Greeks and is nowadays remembered as a heroic fight of nationalism against the invader(s). 
Today there's a large museum remembering this battle and a statue of Leonidas to admire, the hero leader the defence.

Visitors to both can wander around the surrounding plains and discover that along the base of the mountain, flows a stream which reeks of sulphur. Follow this and one comes to a man-made waterfall, pictured below. 

Sometimes referred to as Loutra Thermopilon / Loutra Thermopylon, this is also the focal point for thermal tourists who frolic in both the waterfall itself as well as the canal above and stream below.

Refuge

Further away are what have been bathing buildings. But now these were slightly overrun and function as  a center for recent (?) refugees.

Let's look at the history of the hot springs development. Oddly enough this comes from the Japan Times (Apr. 11, 2014):

'To the uninitiated, the site appears inauspicious, close to an abandoned gas station and a derelict hotel. Bathers change in their car and step over a wobbly wooden pallet to reach the springs.

“We have an exceptional product, but it is poorly used,” sighed Markos Danas, secretary general of the union of Greek spa towns. He notes that across the country, fewer than a dozen sites offer acceptable tourism infrastructure. “Hot springs are mostly run by local communities, and this has limited the scope of development,” he said.

...

The spa towns are now hoping an EU directive that authorizes reimbursing citizens taking hot baths in other member states will revive interest. Greece’s state privatization agency last year also offered four hot springs in central Greece, including Thermopylae, for sale to private developers.

But there were no takers — meaning more free visits for Kyriazis and his fellow bathers in the foreseeable future'.

But as said, the buildings now house refugees. On this, Al Jazeera (Jul. 16, 2016) notes:

'Thermopylae, Greece - Akram al-Majidi lifted his left arm to show the skin disfigured by severe burns after a car bomb exploded outside his shop in Baghdad in 2008.
The flesh, once on the outside of his forearm, was pushed to the other side, leaving just a thin layer of scorched skin on top of his radial bone.
Akram, 34, says his life was simple in Iraq. He owned a bakery, preparing special cakes for weddings, birthdays and other occasions.
"I'm left-handed. I wrote, ate, made cakes - all with my left hand," Akram tells Al Jazeera in his family's tiny room in a bankrupt and deserted hotel converted into a refugee camp for hundreds of people in Thermopylae, central Greece'.

Apparently since a few years, the pre-WWII (1935, source) bathing establishment has closed and was awaiting new (private / foreign) investment. And in the meantime functioning as a refugee camp. 

It could be much worse, but there certainly seems to be quite some overpopulation and the distances from a proper supermarket are considerable. So lots of boredom for the refugees, waiting for what the future will bring. 

A positive mention is that they were not impeding on the soaks themselves, thus the hot stream was available for tourist.

Sourced
As it was quite busy at the falls themselves, we decided to hike a bit further upstream to seek the soaking source, solitude and solace. Only 150-200m further there's a quiet pool which forms the source of the stream. 
Strip and soak. 
For a hot day it was certainly a hot soak. I note a temperature of 40°C
(source). 

Though it felt hotter. Witness this sign saying it's 42°C ...:

And it may cause heart problems.

A  photo of the source pool: 

 

Pits
Some practicalities. 
Getting here is not too difficult: north of the village, pass the museum on your right and before the defunct petrol station turn left down a dirt road for the 200 meters or so that it lasts.
Directly adjacent to the waterfall is a shop slash snack bar . 

From the internet there's not too much to add. There are great photo's from roughly 5 years back, here and here.

 

Tripadvisor is not over-impressed by the soaking possibilities: it's no. 4 of the 4 things to do in Thermopylae (link), fours stars though. One review: 

'The natural hot springs provides a great pit stop if you are travelling with kids from Athens to Pelion or Meteora. This hidden gem has very few visitors and is free. Sitting under the hot waterfall provide you with a natural jacuzzi that any kids (and adults as well) would love. Combining it with a small history lesson for the kids in the nearby monument for the battlefield of Thermoplastic complete the experience. Highly recommended site.
Please note: this is a natural site. There are no bathroom or change room facilities'.

Marginally better the same review site under the name of Loutra Thermopilon puts the hot springs at no. 15 (out of 19) of things to do in the Phthiotis region (link).
 

There's this:

'The thermal springs of Thermopylae were already known in the ancient times and they are placed at 15 km south of Lamia, in the centre of Greece. A large flow of water is received and the rare phenomenon of a thermal waterfall is constituted. The therapeutic indications of this particular place are rheumatic conditions, arthritis, neurological and gynaecological disorders, diseases of the respiratory system, asthma, bronchitis and pulmonary emphysema'.

Finally, not always can we expect good news at natural soaking sites. Especially in a poor secure site near motorway access, though that's no excuse.  There are reports of seediness, as a policeman (!) is arrested for voyeurism (Newsbomb.gr, Nov. 6. 2015) while earlier last year there are complaints of loads of rubbish (Aftodioikisi.gr, 15 Jan. 2015).

Oversight

Hot springs are just one of the many gifts natures gives us to enjoy.

It's weird then that the hot spring of Damasta (or Dhamasta) (Gorgopotamos, Phthiotis, Greece) somehow lies in a very unappealingly terrain. Yin and Yang?

Set between the cliff face of the Kallidromo mountains to the south and the dusty, flat no-man's land towards the main motorway north, it's quite a surprise to find out that these springs are actually quite fantastic.

Parallel to the Athens-Larissa motorway runs a road which serves as a local access road. From the more well-known soak and historically significant landmark of Thermopyles the motorway itself turns sharply to the north (and where one can into the Kallidromo mountains to the south and Delphi beyond). Just in this bend one can head take a turn under the motorway, west towards the villages of Damasta and Iraklia. About 500m up this road a dirt road heads to the scrub covered mountain face. A hundred meters further up this road, the arrival and departure of what seems many a car has created a impromptu parking area.

Beyond this parking area are two pools to be seen. One to your right which seems less appealing and slightly muddy, one to your left (see following photo) which contains rocks and is shaded by greenery from the mountain face. 

Body blows
Which to choose? In either pool, there are already soakers minding their own business. We choose the more natural soak, the one to our left.

Most change next to or in their car, depending on how well one can change quickly or whether or not one believes in bodyshame, we quickly change behind a rock next to the soak itself.

This hot spring is bliss, very clear, nice and warm, I would estimate it to be around 35 degrees.

What's not heaven are vicious blow flies which are in party mood on the scantily clad soakers, yeah! Someone has been thoughtful enough to leave a fly swatter behind, but such is their hunger that despite the setting the soak is terminated a wee bit (too) early.

But the lure of this spring means we revisit this place, this time aware of the blow flies we take the right pool, which is considerably devoid of the beasts.

Slightly hotter, the experience is just as good. Certainly one of the better natural soaks. A plus for non-development.

Illuminated
There's suspiciously little extra info available on internet. The government website Lamia.gr:

'In Dhamasta, close to highway Lamia - Athens are spas Kallidromos (Psoroneria). In the open pool of hot springs, formed, one can enjoy swimming at 33^o C water,  even if you suffer from rheumatism and skin diseases.

The thermal waters of the ancient Greeks they offered to Hercules because they strengthen and heal the body and Hercules represents strength. The Psoroneria like, and baths at Thermopylae were known from antiquity. They believed that the goddess Athena donated to Hercules. Temple dedicated to Hercules was at Thermopylae, as we mentioned by Herodotus and Pausanias. The 2nd century a.C., the Irosis the Atticus had built tanks to use them the inhabitants of the surrounding areas. In contrast, during the Turkish baths were completely neglected'.

There are two problems with this reference: The map is slightly off, it would require a hike into the mountains. And the picture seems not to add up. 

It's then that I discover that this hot spring is part of where I was, just a couple of 100m to the west. It's lot more developed and larger. See following photo:

jazzy_tiligada

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From Virtualtourist:

'Damasta SPA is an open little lake near the village Damasta, between Lamia and Thermophiles- on the old road- the water is not so hot like Thermophiles SPA but for sure it deserve a visit. It is an open aria and it can be easy reached all day and night (illuminated aria) their is no entrees fee'. 

Earlier (2014) on this blog, it was reported that these springs were to be developed (source).
Just last month (golamia, May 16) there was a very brief report on this soak being cleaned (by tractor) by the local government for the benefit of 

'... the tens of swimmers who are there every day'.

Έκλεισαν τα ψωρονέρια στην Δαμάστα λόγω καθαρισμού door LAMIASTARGR

No mention of blow flies ...

There's not much more to do in the area, Lamia town is nondescript the delta area could be nice (if accessible) and the Kallidromo mountains pretty barren. 

 
A sight for sore feet 

Shades

The coastal town of Kamena Vourla (about 150 km north of Athens) has a certain reputation as a thermal place of well being.

From the wikipedia link above:

'The famous springs became important around 1926 when the chemist Michail Pertesis discovered the exceptionally high radon concentration in the water, which was thought of as a great value for people's health. Nearly ten years later (1930s), the first hotels started to develop. After World War II, Kamena Vourla was transformed into a famous tourist attraction'.

However the status and importance of this hot spring seems to have changed. The main bathing building has gone defunct. Just google Kamena Vourla + hot spring to see the ruin.  Such as this:

'During my short trip to Kamena Vourla I visited the Ippokratis hydrotherapy which apparently was the "new" building. Things did not look that new and certainly needed some restoration.
But within a driving distance there are some small healing thermal waters nearby that locals are using- the Kallyntika and Koniavitis.
Those I can totally recommend. I loved it'. 

source

Or read this from the greektraveller:

'Only few people come at this side of the settlement [of Kamena Vourla]. A wonderful pine grove, filled with big poplar trees, sedges and plane- trees all stretching in the shade of the mountain Knimida. The slopes fall vertically drowned by vegetation mixed with innumerable caves and rocks full of holes. Around this grove spring are the ruins of the old baths: Hotel “Radion”,the Baths “Asclepius”, other old hotels, all now deserted and devastated with wonderful neoclassical architecture and paint which has peeled away from the once glorious era: purple, ochre, sepia, warm yellow and shades of charcoal gray'.

Radion refers to it's radioactive waters: the hot spring of Kamena Vourla is one of the two hot springs of Greece known for their radioactive qualities (source). 

There are though a number of hotels with hot spring features (source). However, oddly the thermal connection is not a heavily used card: probably the most prominent Galini Wellness Spa & Resort hardly mentions their thermal pool.

Trashy
But besides what appears the main claim to fame, the town of Kamena Vourla has another few gems of hot springs, surprisingly underdeveloped. All the better.

An early morning this May sees me heading out north of town, along the many restaurants and cafes straddling the tiny beach where one can enjoy the view over the Gulf of Maliakos Kolpos towards the island of Evia and the Greek Peninsula to the north. 

On the roundabout just before the motorway there's a tiny sign in Greek (Πηγή Κουνιαβίτη or Koniavitis hot spring) pointing the way: head under the motorway without using the on ramp.

Coming onto this small lane, it just fits between the no-mans land between motorway and mountain face. After a kilometer or so you'll hit a set of hot springs, though maybe warmish is a better description.

In all behind a twin number of changing cubicles / huts to take refuge from the sun/rain, there are 4 cement lined pools (see blog leading photo). Three of these see little use apparently (some scum / algae on top), but enthusiastic soakers are dipping in the last, which also seems to the warmest of the quadruple. All pools would appear to contain waters with temps from 32-34C.

As common on our Greek sojourn, we are called over to soak and enjoy. 

However we skip this, soakers have quite a choice here: just further up the road is another hot spring, which I'll cover later in this blog.

There's not much other info on soaking itself here, certainly not in English. I did find this experience:

'I'm not sure exactly what we were expecting, but we were surprised to find that after a 4 km walk the hot springs were actually cement pools in the middle of a trash heap right on the highway (and they smelled like sulfur). Even though at first all we could do was laugh, once we all got in and started to relax it was actually really really nice. The water was oily and made our skin and hair feel amazing'.