Worship

With some trepidition, an entry on a visit to the Merens-les-Vals source chaud, Ariège region of southern France.

Located in a forest above the village, savouring the surroundings alone is worth the visit. 

Drive from nearby Ax (or better still, take a train), park near the highway in Merens-les-Vals and climb up through the village towards the mountains. Roughly 10-15 minutes later, you'll leave the last few houses behind you, enter the forest and 5-10 minutes further you'll arrive at the larger pond which has been created close to the source.

Larger? Maybe 10 persons can sit comfortably; there are about half that when I got there, a couple of larger groups in the process of leaving. Very frequented thus.

I'll not add too much additional info, the natural surroundings are particulary sensitive, though I doubt whether the hordes even regard available warnings on this; they'll certainly act selfishy either way. 

So there's already quite a lot out there on the i-net. 

I'll start with this, which sums up the dilemma. The reference is from earlier this year (Mar. 10) from French language website Actu.fr. It highlights the often negative feedback from visitors. And adds (translated):

"Usage is that the owner tolerates bathing there, but not more than that," qualifies a good connoisseur of the valley. Contacted by Actu.fr , the Tourist Office of the Ariège Pyrenees says it is "no longer authorized to promote the sulphurous springs of Mérens, because they are in fact private."

The article refers to a Facebook posting from March 4 on the page Arièjo! O moun païs, a page dedicated to local info. 

The few photo's result in a litany of comments much in line with: it used to be better, it's totally ruined, blame social media, you should have been there 50 years ago. 

Certainly the simple existance of an easily accesible hot spring is one of nature's highlights, which visitors seek out to experience. It highlights how local businesses promote their nearness to this and internet is certainly not helping. But we are also with a lot more and more people on this globe, with more and more free time, so seeking soaking sollace is bound to increase. And that shouldn't be a problem. The problem comes with the lack of decorum, common sense shown.

Some common sense links then. Tierrassinfronteras has their own posting (in Spanish) on this hot spring (from Dec. 2022), it looks like I'm late to the party, unwanted? A translated snippet: 

'The first recommendation is the most important, this site is quite popular in summer and during festivities. Therefore, if you want to enjoy nature and a moment of relaxation, we strongly recommend visiting the thermal pools very early or very late and avoiding periods of high influx.

The second important thing is: this is a natural and wild space, so you must not leave any rubbish and you must preserve and respect it. If you find something lying on the ground, even if it is not yours, take it with you. Together we will make this corner a more pleasant and beautiful place.

The Mérens les Vals Thermal Baths are a place for body worship and relaxation. Avoid disturbing the atmosphere with unnecessary noise, and preserve the peace and tranquillity that can be felt in this magical natural environment.

Don't be surprised if you come across someone naked, the Mérens les Vals Thermal Pools are frequented by people who practice naturism.

Follow these recommendations and you will enjoy wonderful thermal pools in the Pyrenees'.

Wild Road (French) notes (Mar. 2021) a visit is a worthwhile winter activity for the Ariege region. He adds this (translated):

'A little tip for preserving the place: in order not to damage these natural springs, do not wash yourself in them. Respect the calm of the place and do not move the stones that surround the pools. Leave the place as you found it when you left and remember to take your waste away. These springs are very busy and can unfortunately be damaged due to incivility'.

The excellent Nature et Source Chaude blog has a more recent (Oct. 23, 2023) entry on Merens-les-Vals. If translated (from French) it gives all the info should you need should you be willing to partake the 20 minute uphill walk, from the village itself, through the fields and into the beginning of extensive forests:

'At dawn (I finally went back the next day very early because of the crowds), when I arrive at the site, I see a red frog that quickly blends into nature. Then a magical shiver (as always) occurs when the source of the baths is revealed . The vapors escaping into the air soothe and comfort me. The forest becomes a backdrop.

The layout is basic. Natural bathtubs have been dug into the earth and blocks of stone are used to outline the basins'.

Then there's the vlogs of Hiti (in French). She also hits Merens (Jan. 2021). Follow the link to the vdo. It's mostly about the car trip there though.

The popular review sites aren't too generous, the backlash certainly finding it's way to Tripadvisor which only notes 3 stars (from 56 reviews) with quite a few photo's. A (translated) sample:

'Thi B

Beautiful but very busy (Aug. 2023)

Nice hike to do. A little difficult for young people (steep and uneven path; steep climb; multiple puddles and rocks in the middle of the path). Allow 15/20 minutes (with young children).

Very busy area so lots of people in the water. Not to mention the lack of manners of the visitors. Too bad (but not surprising)'.

Google only 2.5 stars from 6 reviews.

My own consideration: an eight, though heavily influenced by the lull in visitors.

4_enautocaravana

🌀 Baños naturales sulforosos - Mérens-Lès-Vals (Francia)

Hoy hemos disfrutado de un relajante baño caliente en medio del bosque y rodeados de naturaleza. El agua caliente y sulfurosa y el silencio del lugar nos ha renovado. Ha sido fantástico.

🧭 Des de la iglesia románica de St-Pierre hay que seguir el sendero marcado del GR-10 (marcas rojas y blancas). La poza queda justo al lado del sendero, el olor a huevos podridos del azufre la delata.

🥾 Llevad calzado adecuado, el sendero está empedrado.

⏳ 15min (menos de 1km) des de la iglesia de St Pierre

🌡️ El agua sulfurosa emerge a una temperatura de unos 40°C, muy agradables en esta época del año.

🎟️ entrada libre, pero es un entorno natural, porfavor 🙏🏻 sead respetuosos con el entorno y dejadlo como si jamás hubierais pasado por allí

⌚️ Nosotros hemos ido hacia medio dia y hemos estado practicamente solos. Pero al irnos llegaba bastante gente. Es una poza pequeña.

🅿️ Para AC gratuito a 30min (1,8km) de las termas (N 42° 39' 31" E 1° 50' 9") y a 10min de la iglesia donde empieza el sendero. Para pernoctar tened en cuenta que hay cierta inclinación. En coche se puede llegar hasta la iglésia y aparcar allí (espacio para 3-4 coches.

...

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