Saturday, August 11, 2018

All-out

#abanotubani #tiflis #falcon#georgia
Georgia doesn't seem to be a destination high on the list of many tourists. Wikitravel tries to lure the visitors summing the country up as follows:
'Georgia is approximately the size of Ireland and lies along the same latitudes as BulgariaSouthern France, and New York. For a country of its modest proportions, it presents a remarkable mix of landscapes and climates, ranging from some of Europe's highest mountain peaks to the vast wine-growing valleys and lush Black Sea resorts'
No doubt it's past as part of the U.S.S.R. and current political instability fail to attract many a potential tourist. 

However, just recently our special contributor (Sascha) went to Georgia to search and find it's geothermal soaking sites. 
In this of what will be the first of 6 postings on Georgia, he takes us to the baths of Tbilisi, Georgia's capital.

Readers will note that I'll be adding the odd extra info, but basically what's between apostrophes are Sascha's words.

But let's start with Georgia. As in Sascha's words:
'In general, Georgia has some really fascinating spots like Swaneti region (however no hot springs in Swaneti). Architecture of the communism is destructing and disappearing. This can be an attraction for itself, but it is good to know it before starting the trip. So it is definitively not a holiday destination for “all inclusive amateurs”, but for those who are looking for new experiences. This sometimes requires [you] to avoid the main touristic spots which are definitively overpromoted by the tourist agency, but once you leave the beaten paths, there are still nice things to discover'.
Other than in the capital, Georgian soaking sites are at a premium, it seems. Theculturetrip notes 7 hot springs in Georgia. These are:
  • Tbilisi sulphur baths
  • Samtredia
  • Tskaltubo
  • Sairme
  • Torgva
  • Sulori
  • Tsaishi
As said, by the end of the postings on Georgia, Sascha will have findings on 6 natural hot springs. Though other this posting, the others don't seem to line up. 
How many hot springs are there in Georgia? We'll revisit the list after all the posts. Just hold on for the ride.

Fall
So let's start with Tbilisi's Abanotubani district (see lead photo). Wikipedia:
'Abanotubani (Georgian: აბანოთუბანი, literally "bath district") is the ancient district of Tbilisi, Georgia, known for its sulfuric bathsLocated at the eastern bank of the Mtkvari River at the foot of Narikala fort across Metekhisubani, Abanotubani is an important historic part of the city — the place, where according to a legend the King of IberiaVakhtang Gorgasali’s falcon fell, leading to a discovery of the hot springs and, subsequently, to founding of a new capital'.
It's sulphur hot springs: Georgiaphiles explains, though largely draws on an article by Mielnikiewicz and Rimple (Jan, 2012):
'Documentation of the hot springs goes back to the 10th century when an Arab geographer, Abu Dulaf, noted in his diary that “the water in Tbilisi boils without fire,” but recent archeological excavations indicate an even earlier settlement — Roman-style baths with plumbing that date to the 1st century. The Abanotubani baths are built along Persian traditions, but unlike the water in Persian baths (which are manually heated) the water in Tbilisi naturally comes from the earth with a temperature ranging between 75 and 107 degrees Fahrenheit.The bathing tradition caught on quickly, aided by the city’s historic position at the nexus of the Silk Road. By the 13th century, there were 63 baths in the area, according to Tbilisi historian Tsira Elisashvili. In the early 19th century, Russian visitors described 10, about the same number that exist today. Known for their healing powers, the Tbilisi baths were strongly recommended to Russian invalids and city-dwellers, who traveled through the difficult mountain passes to “take the waters'.
Georgian Journal:
'The story goes back to the fifth century when the founder of Tbilisi King Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting with his falcon near the Mtkvari River. The falcon caught a pheasant but then dropped it. The servants, who were sent to bring the bird back, found it boiled in a hot stream. The King ordered to build a city there and made it the capital of Georgia. Therefore the name of the city – Tbilisi, is derived from a Georgian word “TBILI”, which means warm. Arabian geographer, Ibhn Haokal, wrote: “There are hot waters in Tbilisi, which are boiling without fire”. According to the historical sources, there were 65 mineral baths in Tbilisi in the 13-th century'. 
Sascha continues:
'The old town of Tbilisi (which is quite touristic but a must to visit) offers several thermal pools that are not natural but authentic, cheap and therefore worth a visit.
There are 3 baths in the district: pool “orbeliani”, pool “bakhmaro” and pool “no.5”.
The first one mentioned is from outside the most beautiful and looks like a mosque. Unfortunately, there are only private baths possible which are quite expensive and does not give the authentic atmosphere of common baths'.
'I tried the public pools of “bakhmaro” (see pictures) and “no.5” and I recommend clearly the “bakhmaro” pools.
The men section is bigger than in no. 5 and also a cold pool exists.
The women’s section has an own pool, whereas in no. 5 women only have a shower of thermal water (but have to pay the same price as men, 3 GEL).
In the end, it is like a traditional Turkish hamman including a sauna with the difference that there is a pool with natural thermal water.
I forgot my thermometer, but I estimate the temperature of around 43°C.
Scrub massages are possible but costs extra.
Foresee about 1 hour, after that you will become too tired to stay in the pool'.

Booked
We now look at other experiences to be found online. In fact there are quite a few to be read. Following are just a few snippets.
Travelsofabookpacker from Nov. 2017:
'We had a look at six different bathhouses in the Abanotubani district of Tbilisi and used two of them.
...
There are around 10 bathhouses in the Abanotubani area. The Tbilisi bathhouses all have private rooms of varying standards, sizes and prices. Your best bet is to take a wander around the area and ask to look at some of the rooms. The staff are quite happy to show you the options before you make a booking'.
Georgia starts here:
'... nowadays most visited places are in Abanotubani: “Orbelian Bath”, “Royal Bath House”, “Sulphur baths”, “Bakhmaro baths” and the oldest “Bath house #5”, which is  the cheapest and the oldest  and it’s located right in the middle of Abanotubani'.
Dariko (Jan. 2, 2018) looks at the various prices and what you get (or don't).

Georgian bathing pointers by loveatfirstlayover.

Sips
Let's try to sum up. I am using Tripadvisory, but Tripadvisor seems often confused as well. In general Tripadvisor gives this a 4.5 star experience for a sulphur bath though some had lesser experiences. But relies on 900+ reviews.
Others:
Sipping chai in the sulfur baths of Tbilisi. The water is scalding in one pool and freezing in the next. A masseuse enters to exfoliate all the dead skin cells from your body and you leave with baby smooth skin and a restful mindset.
Another must-do in #Tbilisi is to experience a #sulphurbath The prices for the private rooms vary according to size, aesthetics and facilities. Ours was the most basic at 40 GEL and we paid 20 GEL each for a body scrub which was very much needed after the constant sweating and being covered in grime. I’m a huge fan of the full body #scrubdown No awkwardness at all 🤗 #jellbellingeorgia #abanotubani #chreliabano
What does seem to sum up soaking in Tbilisi's sulphur: shop around for prices. The more private, the higher the price. 
Private rooms include a (dry) changing room and a wet room with hot bath, cold bath, possibly a sauna and a massage place. It certainly looks the way to go on the former: experience a scrub massage.

Mezitím v sirných lázních

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