Showing posts with label thermen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thermen. Show all posts

Thursday, April 17, 2025

Baffled

We toured the Muga Mountains on an eBike, enjoying a dreamy natural bath. We also enjoyed a tantric massage workshop at our location and participated in an exciting Rogaine. We ate oysters and took a dip in Leucate, explored Sant Martí del Canigó, and relaxed in some hot springs in the Pyrenees. An eBike tour through La Garrotxa rounded out a month full of unique experiences!
Cultureofbathing has a piece (Mar. 15) on wellness and the question:
'Whatever happened to the leisurely bath?
The article looks into the bathing art in/of many (Euro) countries, past and present.
Could it be just doing nothing, that's just a major part of the attraction of soaking? 
Be it in hot springs, sauna's, hammam's and assorted. Wherever you are?

So with this we start another overview of Europe's soaking and soaking culture.
France. 23b~log (Jan. 12) heads over to centre of the country's Chaudes Aigues:
'We were visiting in mid January 2025 at the time we had something like -10ºC outside during the night and little more during the day. I just wanted a hot bath at this point and was willing to pay entrance to enter a pool. I know it’s not uncommon for spas to be closed for the cold season: But I will remain baffled, furious and sad. Sacré bleu'.
Marks: just 1
Bert, the blogger on 23b~log, then continues further south to explore and report (Jan. 14) on Rennes-les-Bains. 
Considering that outside temperatures were freezing, it's not at all surprising that he misses the best bath, simply because the ambient temperature ensures the hot water cools down too much to enjoy. It (Rennes) is still awarded a 6.5:
'The coldest days of the year are not ideal time to bathe here, since the only hot option is quite crowded and not exactly hygienic. I can imagine having a better time in summer when he other sources become warm enough to enjoy'.
In the north of Portugal, not too far from Galicia.
Canalaltotamega (Mar. 20) reports on the new thermal hot spring fed complex opening in Chaves. Unfortunately the artcle is unquoteable.
I looked up the Termas de Chaves website:
'Part of the main Wellbeing area, the Aquae Salutem Complex [Termal Aquae Salutem] features a diverse Hydrothermal Circuit, designed to revitalise both body and mind. Highlights include naturally heated Hydrodynamic Pools, between 30ºC and 36ºC, a Sauna and a Turkish Bath — ideal for purification and detoxification. The Sensory Showers, complete with sound effects and thermal contrasts, including an Ice Fountain, stimulate the senses and promote deep relaxation.
The space has capacity for up to 104 people. Access permitted for children aged 14 and over when accompanied by an adult.
Visit the Aquae Salutem Complex — the only one of its kind in Portugal — and discover a place where history, innovation and wellbeing come together in perfect harmony'.

Portugal News (Mar. 26) though does the news and in English:

'The center's new features include the Hydrodynamic Pools, which operate outdoors and are fed by naturally hot waters, at 76 degrees, which enhance the therapeutic benefits of this natural resource.
...
The complex has capacity for 104 people. It is the result of a total investment of 2.4 million euros, financed by the Northern Regional Operational Programme, and is integrated into the existing Termas de Chaves. The new space was built through the refurbishment of part of the old building, which also received new relaxation areas, service desks and changing rooms'.

Pounded
From 2 years back (8 Jan. 2023), adventurediary headed over to Tuscany for a wintery soak / adventure:
'After breakfast was a short drive to the first of two natural hot-springs we would visit in succession. Bagni San Fillipo is a series of hillside pools surrounded by forest. Its mostly visited by locals for its so called healing properties and flies a little under the radar. At this time of year it was very quiet and we were able to enjoy one pool just to ourselves. It was quite wet and dirty getting to the pools but once in, the water was nearly 40°C and very difficult to get out of again! After a couple of lovely hours there we reluctantly dragged ourselves away and made the drive through the countryside to our next overnight stop at Saturnia.
Saturnia
Saturnia is a spa town which has been inhabited, as most towns in this region have, since ancient times. Its most famous for its sulphurous hot-spring pools which cascade at the side of an abandoned mill. These pools hold water at around 37°C and are formed by the deposition of calcareous rock from the evaporation of the water under the gushing waterfall. Its really a spectacular sight and a joy to just lie in for much longer than is probably recommended!
The van park was quite dilapidated with very uneven access, a sanitary area that really needs an upgrade and a camper service that needed to be condemned. But it served a purpose even at a high price and as it was the only park-up within reasonable walking distance.
Arriving late in the afternoon we went immediately to the pools and were a little surprised to find it completely full. It’s an incredible natural phenomenon and still free to access so it has continuous traffic through the day. And although we enjoyed it, there were far too many people for us so we went back to the van and enjoyed a sunset meal and an early night.
The next morning we were already back at the pools before sunrise which seemed to be the perfect time for us as there were only 2 other people there for the next 60 minutes. We enjoyed a wonderful time jumping between the pools and being pounded by the waterfalls. We were already making our way back for breakfast and smelling of sulphur before the masses had even opened their eyes.
The Guardian (Mar. 21) with an interesting article on Napoli's possible next point of increasing volcanic activity:
'Photojournalist Alessandro Gandolfi has been documenting the Phlegraean Fields in southern Italy, where a record 6,740 earthquakes were recorded in 2024, and the seismic swarm has continued in 2025. The volcanic field has been active for more than 80,000 years. It is dotted with craters, lakes and fumaroles as well as roads, factories and the homes of more than 600,000 people.
...
Bradyseism, literally “slow movement”, continues to raise the ground across the Phlegraean Fields. It raised Pozzuoli by two metres in the 1980s, leading to the evacuation of 40,000 people from the Rione Terra neighbourhood.
Bradyseism has always existed in these parts. On the Roman columns of the Temple of Serapis you can still see the holes made by stone-eroding organisms, created when the ground subsided about 10 metres in the following centuries. For a long time they were submerged in sea water.
Two women enter the swimming pool at the Terme Vesuviana spa in Naples. The mineral springs connected to Vesuvius have been exploited for their health benefits since Roman times. Photograph Alessandro Gandolfi
Baden (Switzerland) Bad zum Raben bath cooperation has announced the hot spring fed baths are now closed, subject to renovation. 
Until 2026? 2027 even, according to the Badener Tageblatt (Jan. 21). 
More details on the changes, likewise published by the Badener Tageblatt (Feb. 12).

Wrapping up the hot springs, another slightly older share (Jan. 29, 2024):

NUOVE ZONE INESPLORATE 🔥 Sardegna in Camper Van ⛺️
Esplorazione in Van nell'entroterra del nord Sardegna, alla scoperta di terme libere, siti archeologici e paesaggi di incredibile bellezza!
00:00Intro00:21Terme libere05:19Domus de Janas11:21On the Road12:20Lago Lerno
Equal
The sauna world. From all over Europe. No better way to start than in Finland.
New York Times (Mar. 4) looks at the sauna and questions
'Can a Finnish Sauna Improve Society?
Despite the implications of a positive answer on this, it's just a teaser for a look into the architectural significance of Finnish sauna design:
'Finland now has a social welfare system that rivals those of its Scandinavian neighbors, and about three million saunas for its population of 5.6 million people. In these spaces — from tiny lakeside cabins to semipublic spas in city centers — “it doesn’t matter how much money you have or what you do,” says Saija Silen, a 48-year-old curator at the Museum of Central Finland in the city of Jyväskylä. “The sauna is the foundation of Finnish equality.”
The article then looks at the build of a sauna (the architects), changes of society (from public to private and back again (?)) and how sauna culture is Finnish culture. And vice-versa.

Arguably, we could also have started this section with Estonia. 
Nowness has a vdo on what they describe as the Mooska (Oct. 18, 2024) ritual. If you liked the Smoke Sauna Sisterhood, head here now. Description:
'In Haanja, Estonia, the Võromaa smoke sauna tradition is observed as a unique path to emotional and physical wellness – a profound healing ritual, continued by the region’s rural community. Honored by the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage for its importance to Estonian culture, the practice initiates a transformative journey for those who enter into it, rooted in ancient practice and integrating knowledge of local herbology in a spiritual, sonic experience.
From the verdant surroundings of Mooska farm, Eda Veeroja has become renowned for her sauna healing capabilities, documented in short [12 min.] film Mooska. Directed by Samuel Aarnio, the immersive documentary ventures deep into the ritual, as Veeroja constructs a sacred space between women seeking to clear a friend’s relationship trauma'.
An article from UK's Daily Mail (Mar 11), with a report on a visit to a typical Dutch 'spa'. But this being the sensationalist press, of course the emphasis is on the lack of clothing. The author though is out to promote  the clothelessness as neutral as possible; him being a British Naturism promoter:
'The spas are not ‘naturist’ places - the nudity is simply a means to an end.
The most effective way (the only way?) to get the right results from bothering to have a sauna in the first place is to allow it to affect the whole of your body.
You wouldn’t have a bath with your underwear on.
In practice - especially in February, when I visited - most guests wander around in their dressing gowns, only disrobing (literally) when they enter a sauna or pool.
What really sets these places apart from the UK experience is the sheer number of facilities.
The buildings themselves are not necessarily huge, nor need to be surrounded by manicured lawns, topiary hedges or classical statuary to attract clients.
They’re everywhere too and, it seems to me, treated by locals as we would a leisure centre or gym.
They’re packed - not to uncomfortable levels—but I mean popular. And to all age groups. Though it has to be said, in my late fifties, I’m often one of the older people spa-ing'.
Germany then, from Reddit (Mar. 27), the enquiry to what's second best:
'They all have the same logo as they are or were associated with Josef Wund, I loved Therme Erding, so was wondering what one is the second best to try? I know the Vabali ones, but I really liked the format of Therme Erding so want to try similar places.
Therme Bad Wörishofen
Badeparadies Schwarzwald Titisee
Thermen & Badewelt Sinsheim
Thermen & Badewelt Euskirchen
I also noticed another place called Obermain Therme has a similar logo, but I don't think it is related'.
The answer:
'Here's a ranked list of the top 100 Thermes in Germany for 2024 https://www.travelcircus.de/thermenurlaub
Therme Erding is #1 Therme Euskirchen is #2 Therme Sinshiem is #3 Therme Bad Wörishofen is #6 Obermain Therme is #8 and Badeparadies Schwarzwald is way down at #29 The three Vabali Thermes show up at #4, 7 & 15
As for ownership, Therme Erding is operated by the Global Therme Group. Euskirchen, Sinsheim and Schwarzwald are operated by a Therme Group subsidiary, Thermengruppe Josef Wund.
Therme Bad Wörishofen is not connected to the Therme group, but Jörg Wund is their managing director. There's probably an interesting family story about why he's using the Therme Group logo.
Obermain Therme appears to have no relation to the others'.
The ranking checked 300 thermen throughout Austria, Germany and Switzerland.


Marvel 
Saunachannel advises (Mar. 12) all followers to head over to their site and visit their latest offering: Caucasian Healing Waters: Bathing in Georgia. 
A really beautiful shot and authentic overview of what's available in the country, concerning hot springs (most), wellness and sauna's. If you have 20 minutes to spare, it's really worthwhile.
Their description:
'Experience a transformative journey through the heart of Georgia, where ancient traditions and natural wonders converge in the healing embrace of its waters. Healing Caucasian Waters: Bathing in Georgia unveils the hidden sanctuaries and therapeutic rituals that have shaped the culture of this captivating land for centuries. From the mineral-rich mud of Akhtala to the steamy sulfur baths of Tbilisi and the serene natural springs nestled in remote landscapes, this film invites you to immerse yourself in the restorative power of Georgia's diverse thermal experiences. Discover the stories, the sensations, and the profound sense of well-being that these sacred waters offer, and witness how they continue to nurture both body and soul.
1. Horizons Kakheti, Republic of Georgia
...
2. Akhtala - Mud Treatment Resort
Akhtala is a sanctuary of therapeutic mud, a geological marvel where mineral-rich mud has been used for centuries to alleviate ailments. This resort harnesses the earth's ancient power, offering treatments that soothe and revitalize. The experience is deeply grounding, a return to primal healing, where the very earth itself becomes a source of restoration. The mineral properties of the mud are known to help with many physical ailments.
...
3. Tbilisi Sulfur Baths - Banya №5
...
4. Tbilisi Balneological Resort
The Tbilisi Balneological Resort is a modern haven dedicated to the science of healing waters. Here, advanced techniques blend with natural springs to offer a comprehensive approach to wellness. From mineral baths to specialized shower and underwater therapies, the resort provides a structured path to recovery and revitalization. It's a place where the therapeutic power of Georgia's waters is harnessed with precision and care to include massage with a bath attendant similar to a Turkish Hammam treatment complete with a kisa scrub and cleansing, followed by relaxation and finishing off with tea.
5. Vani Sulfur Pool (4H3P+RQ5, Дихашхо, Vani)
Hidden away in the countryside near Vani, this natural sulfur pool offers an unadulterated experience of Georgia's thermal bounty. The rustic setting, far from the city's bustle, allows for a truly immersive encounter with the healing waters. Here, nature dictates the pace, and the simple act of bathing becomes a profound connection to the earth's restorative energy. The open air setting allows for a very natural bathing experience. 
6. Tskaltubo (8JG2+HRR, Tskaltubo)
Tskaltubo is synonymous with radon-carbonate mineral waters, a legacy that has drawn visitors seeking healing for decades. The unique properties of these waters, naturally warm and rich in minerals, offer a gentle yet powerful therapeutic experience. The grand, somewhat faded elegance of Tskaltubo's sanatoriums speaks to a time when this town was a premier destination for health and wellness. The waters are known to help with circulatory and nervous system conditions.
7. Tekhuri Thermal Springs (958W+33J, Jikha)
Deep in the lush landscapes surrounding Jikha, the Tekhuri Thermal Springs offer a raw and untamed experience of Georgia's geothermal wonders. These natural springs, located in the riverbed of Abasha River provide a pure and unadulterated connection to the earth's warmth. The mineral water contains sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and silicon which is a testament to the healing power of these natural springs.
As the steam clears and the waters settle, Healing Caucasian Waters: Bathing in Georgia leaves you with a lasting sense of tranquility and a deep appreciation for the enduring connection between humanity and nature. Our film is an invitation to experience the transformative power of Georgia's healing waters for yourself. Whether you seek physical rejuvenation, cultural immersion, or simply a moment of serene escape, these ancient traditions offer a profound path to wellness. We hope this journey inspires you to explore the hidden spas and natural springs of Georgia, and to discover your own path to healing in the heart of the Caucasus.
Arguably Belgium's no. 1 thermal resort, Thermen Katara, has announced (Mar. 21) for the Easter period two additional suits-only days. The announcement on Facebook, seems to ellict astonishment.
Read this comment from Apr. 9 (translated):
'Today we went to swimsuit day..Honestly, a completely different audience, no real sauna goers, lots of noise, children, no peace, I would like to know when there are NOT many people, Sunday morning at 8 o'clock? And where did the scrub salt go? Or does that not work with those swimsuits??
A: apparently it stains swimwear, so yes it doesn't work with swimsuits.

4wMercii bubikon!!
#brunnengehn #hallowasser #hotpot #brunnen #wasser #pumpen #velo #anhängerkupplung #publicspace
Finally, the Swiss initiative Brunnen Gehn has spent most of March touring smaller places in the Kanton Zürich (see photo above). Translated:
'The project dream comes true: "Going to the Fountains" tours villages, hamlets, towns, and the metropolitan area. With the "Going to the Fountains" tour through the canton of Zurich , we will travel through the canton from March 14 to April 1, inviting ourselves to ten towns and villages to heat the fountains and, in turn, invite the locals to join the bathing ritual in the evening. The "Going to the Fountains" project has existed in Basel since 2016. Every year from November to March, around 15 fountain heaters heat ten Basel fountains to a pleasant 39°C using a mobile wood-burning stove. In doing so, they revitalize the neighborhoods and transform public spaces into attractive meeting places, even in winter. A reception desk, mobile cloakroom, cold shower, footbath, and lifeguard complete the " Going to the Fountains" ritual'.

Bei der Kälte sind heiße Quellen einfach herrlich.
Wir sind wieder mit Michl und Yvonne zusammen und werden auch gemeinsam Richtung Türkei fahren.
#thermophylae #heißequellen #gemeinsamreisen

Sunday, April 28, 2024

Passed

Expanding on the previous shorter review of Thermen R just outside the city of Roeselare, southwest West-Flanders.

A bit odd, Thermen R is located between a main road, a couple of businesses and a housing suburb; not very obvious specially if coming by car. Which probably is your only choice as it doesn't look like public buses run frequently from the city rail station to the Thermen.

Parking next to a car sales yard, one is welcomed cheerily, though the entrance process seems to entail a long list of checks and balances. As if they have past poor experiences with customers and need to verify whether or not you are kosher.

Entrance is 39,50€ (April 2024). 
After passing the entrance (test?), one is handed wristbands for using the lockers / ordering in restaurant and one heads upstairs to the three changing rooms, all lined with lockers. The Sunday morning mid-April crowd has yet to arrive, it seems. No one else is in the changing room(s), and (once de-robed) back downstairs everything is very peaceful.

Thermen R likes rules and regulations, so there's a list of when the infusion sessions take place: on the dot, every day same time. 
That said, a dressed lady informs us that she will giving said Aufguss session, shortly at noon time, which leaves enough time for a warming up session in the Himalayan salt sauna based in the cellar.
The ensuing Aufguss session is really excellent, the infusion master takes quite some effort to create a sphere which entails light, music, smells and the added process in which a smudge is used. The Kelo-sauna itself is dark, with a big heater in the center.
During a later Aufguss session, our master/promoter also performs a dual infusion session as her partner and her go double with heat and sensation.

Besides aforementioned, there's a large indoor / outdoor pool, a natural pool, a steam bath, four other sauna's and a singular small jacuzzi. 
Especially the Japanese sauna, affords the comment that it has a large window through which one can view nature documentaries on the opposite wall, another nice innovation.

One shortcoming, is the restaurant service which is slow, much due to being understaffed, a pity. Furthermore, it's obvious the outside buildings require a little bit of maintenance, some paint possibly?
Otherwise very satisfactory. I'd give it an 8.

Other reviews.
  • Google: 4.1 (600+ reviews), 
  • Facebook: 4.5 stars (500+ reviews),
  • Tripadvisor: 4 stars (530+ reviews),
  • Blootgewoon is very harsh with 4.9 out of 10, though only 3 reviews, with one reviewer noting that it's best to avoid the sauna when the owner is around!
Noted is that Thermen R has also now unfortunately jumped on the clothed sauna wagon, Tuesdays is the day when bathers should dress up (source).

As customary very few photo's beyond what the owners push themselves (the emphasis on rules (no phones) seems to work well?). Especially their Facebook page has daily catches of how welcoming it seems.

Plusaunord has an experience to share, from 2018 and in French. That means you might need a translation and must take into account that the French are less used to nudity at sauna's (to say the very least), so that plays a big role in the (positive) experience.

Sunday, April 2, 2023

Portioned

Op Pinkstermaandag gaan we ook vandaag naar een publieke sauna. Op zoek naar super professionele opgietsessies? Ga dan maar langs bij Thermen Katara!
Te ontdekken via #exclusivewellness
#publiekesauna #openbaresauna #opgietsessies #sauna #zwembad @thermenkatara
What to expect when you visit one of Belgium's best wellness complexes?

Let's first seek to establish why one would mention this as the best?

Over to our tried and trusted (?) review sites:
* On Google, the decade old facilities of Thermen Katara are accorded with 4.7 stars from 1750+ reviewers. Virtually all 5 stars, nearly all in Dutch language (meaning visitors are Flemish/Dutch).
* On Tripadvisor 4.5 stars from 425+ reviews. The most recent English review:
'Beautiful thermal baths ! Diverse and qualitative installations and the new islandic zone is really nice ! The infusion sessions in the saunas are worth it. Moreover the whole team was very kind and the restaurant offers very good and (maybe too) big portions. Relax and respectful atmosphere'.
Most reviews (85%) are in Dutch; English reviews are mostly somewhat dated. Note that during the past few years Katara has expanded considerably.
* On Facebook, nearly 2000 reviews, with a score of 4.8 stars.

Away from these, there's this:
* On Flemish website (Relaxy.be) in their overview of public sauna's Katara leads with 9.7 out of 10.
* Heading away from the middle of the road sites, naturismegids (Dutch) accords Thermen Katara with a 9.3 (out of 10).
* Blootkompas rates it a 8.9, ex-aequo best of Belgium.

Certainly on Google it's relatively easy to establish the relation to other Belgium wellness / complexes. Katara beats Waers Waters and Thermen Londerzeel (both 4.5 stars). 
So, yes best. Near to top notch so to say. But this according to it's mostly Dutch speaking clients.

Herald
And the reality?

Locationswise, it's hardly a very scenic place: just outside the East-Flemish village of Belsele, along the main road between the towns of Sint Niklaas and Lokeren. There's a large parking area in front. And an overflow area which quite often fills up as well.
Note that it is advisable to reserve an arrival time on forehand, Katara is very popular.

The entrance procedure is efficient (single entrance is nearly 40€) and one is ushered in, within a short time to the changing area. 
The changing rooms are a number of larger cubicles with lockers around, nothing out of the ordinary.

Katara has expanded quite a bit during the past few years, so don't be fooled by the modest actual entrance with just a couple of showers and a central hall with 2 saunas, and a steam room. 

Directly outside here are a heated pool and jacuzzi. 
To the right a door heads to a smaller hall, affording entry to a rock sauna and  another door heading further outside. 

The outside area comprises besides the already mentioned: three saunas, a couple of jacuzzi's and a seperate building with relax space. Then there's another additional building with an Icelandic themed corner with two larger saunas and then a large deep hot bath. This building also has a large Roman steam room.
For more info just head over to their informative website.

All this completed with an extensive and well used restaurant. Surprisingly (for Belgium) with a good choice for vegetarians and vegans, with many of the dishes heralding the season.

Faith
As for the experience.
On a dreary saturday afternoon, mid-March, we arrived with just a few spots available on the car-park, neatly on time as to regards our reservation (just a sort of heads up to sauna staff, so as to spread those entering). 
The changing rooms were quiet as was the entrance showers. 
The smallish central was busy, it's always good to establish what's the programme for that day. When are the Aufguss sessions? And where? Anything else ?
The Aufguss sessions were mostly hourly, theme wised Asian / banya. And in the Roman steam-room there were two scrub sessions, which require an extra fee, as well as requirement to reserve.

As starters, we enjoy the Tibetan (rock) salt sauna, then a cooling down session outside. Followed up by a steam-room. And a light lunch.
Then a popular Aufguss session, with about 60 others, a slight squeeze. Cooling down, a couple of pool lengths swim, then just relaxing in the Geysir bath, one of the most popular places.
A light dinner, another Aufguss, with beech infusions. The ceremony master is quite good in producing this entertainment. This is as OpCongemetXavier (Dec. 22, 2021) experiences this (translated):
'Be sure to take part in the banja ritual in the Finnish Sauna [since, moved to the bigger Thai sauna]! The pourer then druidically immerses a bunch of dried birch branches in a bowl of water, first moistens the oven with it and then sprinkles his sauna guests with the healing birch water, just as a pastor in the church blesses his faithful. Wellness is not just relaxation. Wellness is a religion'.
After the cooling down, a sweatroom and then a lie down in the Japanese sauna. Time to leave.

During the day there was a good and mixed crowd (m/m, f/f, m/f couples -young and old-, young families, groups of friends, etc.), everybody is equally impressed by what's on offer and enjoying the mood lift.  A great place to get an energy uplift.

Despite when leaving evidence that even the overflow parking was well filled, one never had the impression that the other guests are too much.

Dessert
Overall there are not many other experiences to share, other than those under the review sections mentioned already. Or the odd experience here and there. There's this from Ongewone weken (Feb. 5, 2017, translated) with this conclusion:
'All in all it was a successful day. I go home 'relaxed as a pudding', to put it in Jorryd's words. And you get used to being naked. After a few hours you are so relaxed that you simply don't care who sees what. What also helps is that – contrary to what I expected – you are not stared at at all by men who could be your father or grandfather. Yes, here we felt like a bunch of hippies in a luxury world'.
Reditt has a recent stubb on Belgium saunas:
BoHoBeest·7 mo. ago
Katara in Sint-Niklaas has a large variety of sauna's and opgietsessies [=Aufguss] as well. You can't bring your own water but there is a drinking fountain so if you buy 1 bottle in the bar you can refill.
taliza·
Antwerpen
Katara is the best !
Note : on Wednesday it's bathing suit day, so then there's no nakedness
mujirushi_bland·
Katara is indeed my absolute favorite in this area. The only downside is it's a pain to travel back from since I live east of the Kennedytunnel.
Het Laatste Nieuws (May 4, 2022) with one of the very few news reports; this on the most recent extension / improvements:
'Even in the midst of the corona crisis, business managers Geert De Mulder and Nancy Goossens did not give up. Katara was further expanded with a number of new and special bathhouses, which are now presented. “In our new Icelandic Bathhouse you can enjoy the Midsommar Sauna, the Geyser Bath, the Pao Ice Cave and bee sauna The Bee Hive”, say Geert and Nancy. “Everything you see and smell here fits into the picture. The look and feel of the bee sauna provide a unique sauna experience that is unseen in Europe. Here you really feel the way of life of the North come to life.”
...
It is not surprising, according to the operators, that the new bathhouses and saunas were built in the midst of the corona crisis. “We always wanted to swim against the current with Katara,” says Geert. “Being different from others is in our nature. When we started Katara, the banking crisis was in full swing. During the recent expansion of our complex, we went through the corona crisis. Every time we look for ways to reinvent ourselves and raise the bar a little higher. A risk that has paid off so far.”
Finally, my experience based on the positives: choice of experiences, cleanliness, positive vibes other patrons, quality and service of catering: 9+/10. 
Always leave room for improvements!

Thursday, November 7, 2019

Trial

One of Europe's smaller nations, Luxemburg, counts just the 1 source of thermal origin, notably in the town of Mondorf-les-Bains.
Located in the south of the country, Mondorf lies on the border with France and seems surprisingly well-kept. Most of the town's economy revolves around what can be described as it's classy thermal pool, it's adjacent park and the consequent guest and entertain facilities.

The hot spring facilities are known as Mondorf Domaine Thermal (Facebook) and this Domaine is located on the side of a hill on the edge of town. 
There's a super large car park which on this sunny September Sunday was packed to the brim. Oh no (expectations heading downhill)!

I had done some pre-soaking research, so I sort of knew roughly what to expect.
Wikipedia shed light on the thermal origins and the broader history of both town and spa:
'It was in the 1840s that the thermal waters were uncovered as a result of deep drilling for salt which had become highly taxed under the Dutch. Karl Gotthelf Kind, who had found salt in Germany and hoped to do the same in Mondorf, discovered the waters after drilling to a record depth of 736 metres. Despite their mineral properties, the waters were not suitable for salt a brownish colour caused by the rich iron content which emerged after distilling. Nevertheless, the local notary, J.-P. Ledure, saw other opportunities for the waters and was successful in finding support for setting up the "Société des Bains de Mondorf". The architect Charles Eydt was immediately commissioned to build the thermal establishment which was inaugurated on 20 June 1847. As a result of the spa's success, the village prospered as rich French guests came to stay in the luxurious hotels which sprang up in the vicinity.
...
Despite acquiring the name of Mondorf-les-Bains on 28 August 1878, the spa had been undergoing a significant decline since 1871. Only after the State took over the facilities on 21 April 1886 were its fortunes improved. Minister of State Paul Eyschen was particularly successful in reviving interest, encouraging visitors to come from Belgium. In the early 20th century, the State invested heavily in the resort adding a pavilion for the original source, a banqueting hall and a reading room as well as the Orangerie and the country’s first indoor swimming pool. The park was also enlarged. A railway to Thionville was opened in 1903 and, in 1913, the Marie-Adelaïde Source, named after the grand duchess was added after drilling to a depth of 464 metres.
...
In 1945, Mondorf's Palace Hotel became Camp Ashcan, a prisoner-of-war camp for senior Nazi dignitaries who awaited trial at Nuremberg. During the allied occupation, that lasted until september 1945, there was no permission to transit in the town from 7 pm to 7 am. The spa continued to prosper in the second half of the 20th century with an outdoor swimming pool (1953), a new thermal centre (1988), and the Casino 2000 which opened in 1983.
The spa welcomes thousands of visitors a year with its richly mineralized waters at 24 °C (75 °F). Set in a park of 36 ha (89 acres), its facilities are among the most modern in Europe. The waters are particularly suitable for the treatment of liver, gastric and respiratory ailments. In addition to a fully equipped fitness pavilion, there are also massage booths, saunas, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, solariums, Turkish baths and whirlpools. Treatments from algae wraps and lava-stone therapy to lymphatic drainage and ayurvedic rituals are said to be especially relaxing'.
Quite a lot to digest.
So they aren't naturally surfacing waters, they were discovered by accident, but their discovery lead to some prosperity as the constant renewal of the bathing facilities has served the local economy well.
The most recent renovation (2015) has lead to it's current set-up.

Advice
My pre-visit research of course touched on the popular review sites.
Google reviews average 4.4 stars (from 1561 reviews). From the past year, an abstract (arbitrary):
'Fantastic facility.
Das Personal, egal welche Abteilung ist super nett, natürlich auch der Kurarzt. Es ist sauber. Was ich als sehr störend empfand, waren die vielen Handybesitzer, die telefoniert haben und auch fotografiert haben. Das soll doch eigentlich ein Ort der Erholung sein. Die Curisten halten sich nicht daran, leise zu sein. Ich schlage ein Handyverbot vor.
Règlement de maillot de bain nul
Je trouve ce lieu sans vie.trop classe peut être?j'étais pas a l'aise
Ça fait du bien!!! La chaleur de l'eau, le calé et la propreté des lieux. Le seul bémol: certains saunas sont "nus".
Tripadvisor rates Mondorf baths with 4 stars. Based on 347 reviews (51 in English, 262 in French, just 13 in German). 
Some snippets from last 12 months:
'Zu teuer, Innenbereich veraltet und teilweise schmutzig
Point négatif les gens nu qui marche avec leur asticot dans les endroits où les asticots sont cacher normalement.
Pour finir, si vous êtes seulement fan de piscine uniquement, l'entrée est relativement chère
Der Innenbereich müsste dringend renoviert werden.
Sehr sauber, ...
Domaine très sympathique
Au top !!
Fabuleux !
Nous devons être nu pour les saunas ce que je trouve tout à fait normal. Dommages par contre de devoir tjs remettre son maillot car si vous souhaitez faire un sauna puis un deuxième, vous devez sans cesse mettre et démettre votre maillot . Du coup je ne le met plus du tout je suis nue sous le peignoir, Cest beaucoup plus simple. L'endroit est très propres! Je recommande cette établissement. Et arrêté de dire c'est honteux les gens sont nus.
Le centre thermal possède une Hygiène et propreté impeccable'.
A lesser known review site, saunafans.de, has an extensive review (2018):
'Insgesamt war die „Domaine Thermal“ mit Abstand die beste Saunaanlage, die ich in Luxemburg besucht habe, wenngleich doch einige Minuspunkte das sehr gute Ergebnis arg eintrüben: So ist das Gebäude der Therme arg veraltet, wenngleich auch gut gepflegt (wobei man natürlich auch nicht alle fünf Jahre alles abreißen und wieder neu aufbauen kann). Aber speziell das Thermalbecken ist arg in die Jahre gekommen, und der Umkleidebereich ist sehr unattraktiv gestaltet. Hinzu kommt der Umstand, daß man ständig, wenn man zwischen den Saunagängen die Wasserbecken nutzen möchte, aus den Badesachen rein und raus muß. Hier sollte Mondorf konsequent Therme und Sauna trennen, auch mit unterschiedlichen Preisen für die verschiedenen Bereiche. Der ohnehin kaum genutzte Innenbereich könnte dann in eine Textilsauna umgewandelt werden. Das Angebot der Bar ist eher bescheiden, wenngleich auch zu moderaten Preisen.
Stichwort Preis: Der ist mit 39 € für die Tageskarte natürlich enorm. (Wenn man dann aber mit der Saarland-Therme, die mittlerweile bis zu 35 € für einen Tagesaufenthalt aufruft, vergleicht, geradezu ein Schnäppchen.) Daher sollte man schon einen Tag für den Aufenthalt einplanen. Auch Arrangements mit dem dazugehörigen Hotel sind selbstverständlich möglich. Wochenend- und Feiertagszuschläge werden auf Tageskarten nicht erhoben, wohl aber auf Stundentarife in Höhe von 2 €. Geöffnet ist täglich ab 9 Uhr, montags bis donnerstags bis 22, freitags bis 23, samstags bis 21 und sonn- und feiertags bis 20 Uhr. Jugendlichen unter 16 Jahren ist der Zutritt zu den Saunen nicht erlaubt. Es herrscht täglich gemischter Betrieb'.
So what to expect: 
- high entrance price. 
- some distaste (confusion even) concerning nudity or what to expect, 
- staff not kind / kind, 
- facilities not clean / clean, etc.

So let's look at the entrance price.  
Mondorf Domaine Thermal note that a full day admission is 40€! But there are cheaper alternatives: a 2 hour sojourn costs half this (19,5€) though there's an additional 2€ charge for weekends; 3 hours is 26,5€.

And let's look at the confusion concerning wearables. Again from the same official site:
'Please bear in mind that a sauna is enjoyed without swimsuit. Just bring two towels along: one to wrap around your waist or armpits, and the other to put under your feet. This basic equipment will enable you to make the most of your session'.
Hmm, still confusing, does one take the sauna naked or not?

Aficionado
From the parking we sauntered to the entrance.
It's not too busy at the reception and after the receipt of a bracelet, we proceed onwards to the locker-rooms. 
This area is hugely confusing: rooms are all over the place but the lockers are all taken, it seems. The changing rooms themselves are very narrow, but there aren't too many people milling around, so changing isn't too difficult.
Onwards we proceed to ..., well somewhere outside. 
All very confusing as more and more locker-rooms become apparent until finally there are signs to showers, these are gender specific. 

From here you can step outside. 
Outside we are presented with a big lido pool, which is quite busy. The water is definitely not thermal (?), the thermal pool is off to the right, slightly lower. 
The thermal pool lies in an area that's available to all age groups. There are some families here but not so many; maybe the entrance price discussion of above bears influence on this? 
The thermal pool is nice and warm. But also busy. There are a number of water-massage stations but with a strict procedure: we seem to have caused sacrilege by not starting at the start, nor pressuring the person before us to move on. Nice.
We return to the area reserved for the older generations (above sixteens) and seek out a sauna. As said I had done my research previous and though management frowns on nakeds walking around and sunning, sauna's are all au-naturel.
The first sauna is gearing up for an Aufguss session, but there's space on the middle bench. Slowly the sauna gets packed as more and more persons are crammed in, though notably many packed in towels. Finally the Aufguss session proceeds and even though I have doubts whether I'll make it to the end, there's no escape possible, simply due to the number of bodies. Surprisingly after the thorough Aufguss, the crowd dissipates, mostly packed in towels and skipping the post shower. Hmmm. 

I hadn't taken my camera with me; a practice often frowned on in European spa's. Below though is a very seldom photo, found on instagram of what essentially is the full domain: in front, the hotter higher up pool, below that the lido-esque adults-only pool, while behind the building in the center is the the main thermal pool. All facilities are on your right, while on your left the few roofs on display are of the various sauna's:


Fosse sempre così 😎🤩...#summer in #luxembourg #therme #pool #weekendvibes 🥳
During the afternoon the practice of avoiding the naked body is held in high esteem, though as the afternoon proceeds towards the 5 o'clock mark, the number of natural aficionado's seems to rise; and it seems that management is relaxed enough to tolerate natural bodies occurring in the sauna areas above the pools. But nobody dares a skinny dip in the pool itself; apparently that's where the limit lies. 

Other observations:
There was actually quite a lot of activity during the afternoon, as there are many sauna's and Aufguss sessions constantly taking place. 
Alas, many of the lawn recliners seem reserved, clearly there seems to be a disconnect between the number of visitors and recliners. Is it normal to expect more persons share one recliner?
In the higher section above the larger pool, there is a nice hotter pool (foreground photo above), much smaller, which also sees loads of soakers.

While the sun slowly drops, we decide to call it a day. 
The reverse search for showers and locker rooms takes place. 
And after we locate our locker we are forced to wait until others have vacated the locker-room, there's simply not enough space. But also it seems not everybody is in cooperative frame of mind.

Overall we felt that the experience was not worth it's value. 
It was to a certain level quite novel: the dress / undressing part that is. 
Yes, it's real mineral water but the existence of thermal water only plays a supporting role in the whole bathing complex, so for the soak itself; not necessary.
I also believe management could have done a better job to make the whole process much more easy-going and user-friendly

Have I missed anything else noteworthy?
There's more from the Mondorf Domaine Thermal:
'The beneficial effects of authentic thermal waters recognised for more than 160 years and heated at 36 °C are geared essentially to the general relaxation of the muscles, the improvement of blood circulation, and relief from pains and inflammations. The large quantity of mineral salts present in the thermal water produces a state of weightlessness that facilitates movements and relaxes the muscles, particularly during aqua course sessions.
...
Michel LUCIUS thermal spring
Depth : 750 m
Flow rate : 440 litres/minute
pH : 6,8
Total mineralisation : 14 555,05 mg/kg water
Minerals : chlorides, sulphates, hydrogen carbonates, fluoride, iodine, sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron, manganese'.
The thermal pool itself:
Finally, Léssentiel.lu (Jul. 31) reports on healthy profits being made, especially since the 2015 renovation.

Postscript 2022: May we have your votes? Six out of ten then. The hogging of the pool walls, the great empty spaces, the confusion concerning clothing, the packed aufguss. Not much positives ...

Wednesday, April 20, 2016

Meta



The island of Milos is oft mentioned as being of a highly volcanic nature with many a hot spring. Witness the official website:
'Milos thanks to the volcanic activity and the meta-volcanic hydrothermal action has a lot of hot springs, well-known in antiquity for their therapeutic powers. Characteristically, Hippocrates in his book E’ “On epidemics” refers to the therapy of an eminent Athenian who suffered from a skin disease and who was cured at the Hot Springs of Lakkos in Milos. Furthermore, the French professor  of Botanic Pitton de Tournefort refers to the island’s  hot springs in his “tour” texts in 1771'.
On the ground things are telling a different story.

I'll get to this in a later posting, there are mainly two failings: 
1. there's precious little info to go by,
2. other than the statement above there's little or no interest in soaking at all!

Wiggle
At least one of these statements does not apply for the hot springs of Aliki (or Alikes, Alykes, but sometimes referred to as Kanava): not only are they the most often cited, there's even a roadside signboard to indicate their existence.


But that's about all there is to these hot springs, a signboard. No telling exactly where they are.

Were it not for other additional info one would never have known where to search and / or what to expect.

Let's start with the most informative, Tripadvisor (forum):
'It is much easier to find the ones in Kanava. They are right opposite the power plant in the bay of Adamas. Driving from Adamas towards the airport, at the end of the of the power plant (right after the junction to Palaiochori, Agia Kyriaki) opposite there is small sign "Hot Springs".
There is a big flat rock on the beach at this point. The majority of the springs extend at the right of the rock as you face the sea. On a calm day you will see the pubbles on the surface of the sea and the sand.
Also the grandmothers and grandfathers swimming there will give you a good indication :'
Or this:
'More like a spa experience than a beach, this is one of the places on Milos where hot minerals springs gush out of the sea around the shore. In Greek Loutra Alikis means "baths of Aliki", as Aliki is the name of the area around the airport. The sign for the springs is hidden between the trees but you can easily find the beach which is right in front of the island`s electric power plant, near the crossroad for Zephyria. The beach and the plant are separated by the main road going to Achivadolimni and Empourio. There is no parking lot and you have to park along the road. The springs cannot be seen from the road but when you get closer you can see the water "boiling" at some spots. The water gushing out from the springs is hot on these spots but the coming cold waves mix with it, reaching a very pleasant temperature and allowing you to soak in the sea for a long period. It is considered that these springs cure skin and gynecological diseases'.
Equipped with this info, we drive over to the site mentioned and park the car. Beyond the sign is a shrub or two and then the coastline. An opening  between the shrubs gives access to the beach, though it's a larger rock onto which it opens up to.
Anyway to the right are two what I believe English dames who might have experienced the soak. Oddly enough they point to a place just before the tide line where (that days prevailing) winds have stacked up as of yet uncertain sea vegetation.
"You have to wiggle a bit".
Wiggle we do and a foot bath is to be had. But that's about that. No grandparents around who might elude. Was this it?

This is it: a nice mess!

Best
Though it's easy enough to stumble onto these hot springs, what better way than to get (more) info than from the Adamas located Milos Mining Museum: a legacy to the geological origins of Milos island and ways to exploit it. 
In itself it's quite interesting, especially if into geology: there's a floor with all kinds of stones all originating from the island. And there's some original mining equipment. 
It would also be a handy as a source of information especially as the visitors information office (of the island) is not functioning (at all or just seasonally?).

The lady behind the desk at the museum however has little knowledge on the subject (of soaking) and straightaway starts to frantically dial a number on her mobile phone. Oddly enough, just three seconds later the man she was calling steps into the office, not having answered his phone. 
After being explained what the question is, he responds and explains the best place to see hot springs on the island is at Alikes.
"You will see the signboard opposite the power plant".
Ok, passed that part. He then expands that the soaking source is actually 10m off the tide line. Hmmmm, that's more info. 
However, average seawater temp at the time of my visit to Milos is 16 /17 °C, if being optimistic. Neither a temperature to swim for a longer time in.

Fast forward a few days, air temperatures have risen and I am still curious. The day is fantastic: warm with little wind. 
We park once more, this time round there's no other visitors (in the course of a week, we have passed this place maybe 10 times; other than on the occasion above the place has been deserted, no grandpa's nor grandma's!).

Winds and tides have pushed the vegetation above the tide line (or maybe it's low tide) and just beyond one can see bubbles. 

Quite hot standing there. 

Looking more intently I see more bubbles a meter or so away and wade that way.  Ahh, that's nice and hot. 
The sea is very flat and I am contemplating swimming out the ten meters mentioned just to confirm the non-existence. 

It's then that I notice a part of the bay with movement on it, contrasting to the flat waters around. 

That's not even 10m, so I dive in. 

Roughly 5m or so (see lead photo), with a depth of a meter, there are huge amounts of hot water flowing into the sea from the sea bottom, thus giving the sea surface a little ripple. It's nice and warm, hot flashes intermittent with the much colder sea.


The waters are also a lot more saline here. Temperatures are supposed to be 50°C (source).

Well, that was a great discovery. And it leaves me wondering why nothing has been done to say make a sea pool, hem in the hot water, get guests in for the winter, so much to do.

Fallen
Closeby are other springs with the same name (Alikes / Alykes; but not Kanava) but they seem to be in need of a spring cleaning. Miloterreanean:
'Cave with thermal mineral water with a temperature of 29ºC and a chlorine content that indicates a mix of fresh to sea water in a ratio of 2 to 1 [measurements of 1985 - M. Stamatakis]. In a text from 1835 (Xavier Landerer, “On the Hot Springs of Milos”, 1835) it is stated that the spring is "at the foot of the small hill coming from the old city (Zephyria) at the port where the salt marsh is today…”. The same source states that the entrance was low, so someone needed to crouch down to get into the cave, one that could accommodate 60 to 70 people and where the water temperature reached 25°C. Today the cave cannot be visited, because the roof has fallen in near the entrance'.
Another source:
'Another source, known as "Loutra Alikìs", was recommended for women's diseases and infertility. Today the cave is walled and does not work. (Baths of Aliki, opposite to Milos power plant, near the sea, seems to generate the same water type)'.