Showing posts with label clothing-optional?. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clothing-optional?. Show all posts

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Nature understood

Confusion
Something that never seems to bore me is the variety of bathing fashions applied by the globe's population. Some have evolved through the ages, adjusted to fashions and require some forehand knowledge. Others are rather straightforward and seem to ignore standard health issues.

Myself a natural bathing enthusiast if available or possible I tend to adjust if required (though reluctantly) and the experience is always lesser especially if the logic for non-naturalness is far from, well logic itself.

But that's me.

As enthusiastic as I am, note be that bathing in Europe is very different, varying from type of bath to country-wise to local custom, whereas in some cases it's up to the individual him/herself.

And this seems to confuse. Europeans themselves. And non-Euro's. For instance why are beaches in France liberal, but sauna's often not? Why are Greeks prude but their beaches a haven of freedom? Why are Dutch beaches conservative but their wellness sector often freedom loving?
'N'allez surtout pas croire qu'on allait se baigner nu comme des hippies dans des sources chaudes. De toute facon la photo est floue alors y a pas de preuve que c'est nous'.
French surprise at freer Greek (soaking) spirits. Source
So many questions ...

Trauma
Starting this blog intermezzo off is a report. The icelandweatherreport (Nov. 5). It has an entry on the public institution of Icelandic public and payable hot springs: having to take a public shower, naked, prior to taking the waters (clothed!). 
Note we are talking about gender-segregated showers. So what is the issue?
Apparently Iceland habits require a soaker to be 'clean' before taking the waters. Not so strange. 
And this requires a naked shower. Not so strange.

Unless of course your social setting differs. Excerpt:
'Here in Iceland we are so used to showering naked among strangers at the swimming pool that we think absolutely nothing of it. We’re brought up with it, and most of us have been doing so since before we can remember. And obviously the reasoning behind it is pretty basic – we want our pools, which most of us like to visit regularly, to be clean and to stay clean'.
And the way to ensure this Icelandic basic bathing rule is to have the pool guards check out the showers every now and then to make sure the foreigner adheres! But locals will do the same seemingly making the simple process of showering naked (if already daunting) something to put off the more prudish foreigner. 
The report also refers to a Icelandic language video on the subject which has some interviews with Americans. Quotes on the practice of public gender segregated naked showers: uncomfortable & shocking.

German wholeheartedness at Icelandic natural Hrungalaug hot spring. 
Note that only commercial and more visited (by foreign tourists) hot springs require bathing couture. Source
 
On the same issue (Icelandic hot spring showers), another take from 4 worn passports (Oct. 25):
'When we walked into the locker room, I tried to stare straight ahead. It was hard to look for a locker because every time you glanced around, gaggles of naked woman would be undressing. We eventually found a clothed lady that was friendly enough to tell us what to do. When we found a locker, we undressed and wrapped our towels around ourselves, unlike everyone else. We then made our way to the open showers. No curtains or closed stalls of any kind. But luckily, there were three stalls, sadly without curtains, that we snagged as opposed to open showering.
You could feel the Icelanders and the other Europeans, who were accustomed to this, entertainingly watching our uncomfortableness. After washing ourselves, we made a mad dash for our swimsuits and slipped them on over our wet bodies. With relief, I realized our traumatic Icelandic locker room experience was over'.
Smariorganics (Nov. 7) chips in on the first:
'Icelanders love swimming. They do a lot of it. If you go and visit Iceland, and if you get to experience life as the locals do for a bit, you’ll likely encounter opportunities to take a dip at a local swimming pool. But do not forget to take a shower beforehand. And we don’t mean that brief rinse-off kind of shower that you Americans do at the swimming pool or beach. No, we don’t mean rinse your toes or twirl once beneath the shower head.  We mean:  fill your palm with soap and lather yourself head to toe.  We mean:  remove your bathing suit.  We mean:  be naked, and scrub the areas of your body that sweat the most and grow hair. We’re serious–look at the sign in the shower and you’ll see:  genitals, arm pits, and scalps must be washed!'


Aprons
In Hungary things seem to be adjusting to the rise and rise of tourism. And conservatism. Tourist induced conservatism.
From earlier this year is Gellert Spa (Budapest, Hungary) announcement that their famous lack of dress code has changed:
'The Dress Code in Gellert Spa has recently changed when the thermal baths has turned into a mixed spa bath complex on January 01, 2013. Before Jan 2013, men and women had separate thermal pools, so guests were often nude, or just wearing an apron'. 
A step back? Or how to entice more commercialism?

Coward
An American in Poland. And a salt cavern. Question mark. 
Well nothing out of the ordinary but the author (Sep. 8) combines this with a visit to Termy Maltanskie.
'For slightly more than $29 I could spend the entire day wandering between the traditional Turkish Bath, rose steam bath, salt-water bath, aromatic steam bath with fragrance oils, dry sauna, stone sauna, a snow cave, and Roman Bath cold plunges, among others. In the dressing room I climbed into my bikini and headed for the first sauna. Just as I was abut to open the door I noted a illustration of a bikini-clad woman with a red circle around it and a slantwise slash through the picture. “Oh, this one must be a nude sauna,” I thought, and moved to the next one. But the same sign was posted at the second door, and the next one.  Puzzled, I looked around and realized that the other customers, both men and women, were clad only in towels.
I headed back to the check-in desk and the attendant confirmed my suspicions – the entire facility was nude and co-ed, except for Mondays, which were reserved for women only. Of course, it was Wednesday. What to do? It only took a split second to decide. “Lord hates a coward.” I returned to the dressing room, shed the bikini, and joined the towel-clad throng. By the time I’d tried out the second sauna the only time I wore the towel was moving between the different rooms'.
So no worries in the end.

Czech freedom tasting in the eaux chaudes of Prats Balaguer, France Source

Mimicry
Meanwhile in Germany. Another spa experience. Au naturel.
Ianandebe (Nov 17) got naked with Germans:
'In general , I love German's ability to strip just about anywhere. They treat the human body as if it were nothing more than what it is - a helpful and sometimes attractive tool to walk the earth. (Versus the American view that our bodies are nasty dirty sin-seekers that must be covered lest we lose our immortal souls AT ALL TIMES.) I may not love walking around nude in unfamiliar situations (hello showing a room full of German patients and doctors my nude bottom-half), but I admire the German stoicism and do my best to mimic it (even when I am dying on the inside).
When we entered the spa complex we had no idea what to expect. We tried some weak water foot massages things and generally wandered around, still in swimsuits with towels. When we saw our first nude hot tub with a saggy full moon being submerged, we realized what was happening here. Ohhhh! This is the nude area.
We didn't plan on sharing our bodies with others for the first time on our anniversary - we aren't that interesting. But when the opportunity arose to do so with little fanfare, I figured public nudity was a way better gift to ourselves than fruit, flower or appliances'.
Fact of the matter Europe sees different attitudes towards bathing and bathing naked. Note the more remote and the more wild the higher acceptability of clothing optional. Payable soaking sites might require clothing but not if there is separate wellness area. 

Also note that what makes travel so rewarding is it's ability to show us that the world is varied and it never seeks to show us that thinking outside of our own box is rewarding. And challenging ...

Friday, November 2, 2012

Train of soaks

Where are the origins of the soaks of Miño? 
 
Spa City
Many cities and larger towns around the globe have made a name due to the fortitude of having ample natural thermal bathing waters. Think Beppu (Japan), Rotorua (New-Zealand), Budapest (Hungary), Vichy (France), Baden-Baden (Germany) and Laguna (Philippines).

Added to the list should be Ourense. Located in the interior of Spain's northwestern comunidad autónoma of Galicia (Galizia), Romans decided to settle here for it afforded a wadable place on the Rio Miño and there existed a thermal spring or two. 

Nowadays Ourense is a provincial capital with lots of office workers. Tourism is of marginal importance.

But that shouldn't be the case. With the increasing popularization of the so-called wellness industry, Ourense has on offer a smorgasbord of soakable sites. Some websites, do refer to Ourense as the spa city
'Imagine taking a dip in a large open-air thermal bath, by day or night, any time of year, in water with a temperature of over 40 degrees centigrade, and right beside the Miño river. All this can be experienced in Ourense, a city with a hidden underground ocean with five spa areas to enjoy for free, and where you can even see the mineral and medicinal waters bubbling out of the rock. A total privilege for your health and wellbeing. You can also visit private Japanese-style spa centres (like Zen temples) and relax with seaweed- and chocolate-based beauty treatments. And to make it even more convenient, you can also explore this area (a circuit of about four kilometres) by taking the Spa Train. And right in the historic centre, make time for a visit to the Fuente de las Burgas spring, where mineral and medicinal waters bubble up to the surface at a temperature of 67 degrees centigrade, and where the ancient Romans dedicated an altar to the water nymphs'.
Tripadvisor has only three things to do in the city, no.'s 1 and 2 are visits to free soaks; no. 3 the local cathedral ...
 
Burqa
Smack in the center of town are the springs of As Burgas. Ourense's official tourism site:
'The current layout of the spring is the result of various works that followed from the 17th century up to the present day. In the garden of the lower part you will find the "Burga de Abajo" (lower Burgo), a Neoclassical style fountain dating from the middle of the 19th century. Some steps take you up to an esplanade with a pond and two recent works of sculpture. In the upper part you will find the "Burga de Arriba" (Upper Burgo), a fountain dating from the 17th century'.
Despite the prominence it has in the city's history and location in the center of the city, there's surprisingly little info available on the web. The most noteworthy among them is of course the Wikipedia page dedicated to As Burgas, alas in Spanish. After applying Google translate, one learns the additional:
  • Water temperatures vary between 64 and 68 degrees centigrade.
  • Flow rates are 300 ltr per minute. 
  • The origin of the name:  
'some authors may come from the Celtic "beru" meaning hot, but the most accepted etymology indicating their origin from the Latin "burqa" which means stack, referring to the bathrooms used by the Romans as spas'.
  • In 1975 one of the springs dried up after nearby construction work.
The Galician wikipedia entry adds the addition of a pool in 2010. 

 

After traversing the inner city of Ourense we finally came upon As Burgas right in front of the city tourism office. The water is indeed scalding and on this hot midday there's nobody taking any interest in the wall-encapsulated fountains. 
Surprisingly it's only now that I discover the existence of the pool. It even has it's own web site (in Galician). The bath is located above the springs on the other side of the square.

Ruta
Just downstream of Ourense city (in a not so particular nice stretch of Spanish surburbia), the city has done itself a favour by developing the Ruta Termal. The banks of both sides of the Miño river have been beautified with a path stretching from the Ribeiriño bridge to the futuristic Ponte de Outariz. 


Besides the above mentioned spa train (all aboard!) there is also the possibility to cycle the route. At various locations there are bicycles available for hire (see photo below)


Complete
Coming from town the first hot spring one comes across is that of Chavasqueira. 

As it's close to town it functions as one of the city's most frequented soak. It's hard to resist a visit to this soaking site: expansive lawns have attracted many a sun-seeker with the added bonus of having the possibility to use the hot spring pools as well as refreshing in the river itself. 
Despite this being a week-day the soaks are busy and the surroundings account for many visitors enjoying the sun. The facilities are clean and there are even guardians on duty. 
Such is the attraction of the place that one would have problems leaving ... 

 
Pools, sun worshippers, the river and (in yellow) the guardians.
It's not only my opinion. Take for instance the tripadvisor entry, which sees Chavasqueira earn 4.5 stars based on more than 50 reviewers. Spain's ABC publication reckons it is one the countries top 10 natural swimming pools.

Directly above the free pools are the Japanese hot spring pools, named Termas Chavasqueira or Ourense Spa. Sourced from the same springs, considerable effort has been made to somehow attract visitors who might not vouch for the free facilities, 20m away! Hardly expensive (@ €3,80 for 30 minutes), much has been done to conjure up an oriental setting, though the traditional Japanese naked communication has not been copied; amusingly the ladies sunning in front at the public soaking facilities are less dressed! 
The facilities maintain an active blog

Nothing like a touch of bamboo
Mesothermal
Continue downstream for about 300m one comes to the Tinteiro springs. Here considerable effort has been made to produce foot baths, though they seem not to be in working fashion alas. There is though one hand pump which can pump up hot spring water.


On the website of termasourense there is a good photographic overview of the site. Note also that the parking area nearby is a much frequented haunt of camping cars.

Informative signs with pictures from before the improvements. Text reads:
'It is said to have universal healing properties and is one of Ourense's most visited springs. It surroundings have been improved by the Town Hall, firstly in collaboration with the Florendo Álvarez Foundation and later with the support of the European Union as part of the integrated restoration of the right river bank.
Classification: Mesothermal waters, weak mineralization, alkali, sulphurous, lithia, fluoride, silica.
Slightly radioactive.
Flow rate 0,02 l/s.
Temperature 44.9C'.

Flip flops
We made it as far as here. Temperatures were up and back at the car a cranky teenager was waiting. 

However if one continues the next soak is the free to all Pozas do Muiño das Veigas. Closer to the river are 4 larger pools.

 'Termas 3' 
Posted by flickr member majorshots.  The Muiño das Veigas soaks looking good. Note temperatures are 65-72C!

Directly beyond are the Termas de Outariz (Facebook page, blog), another entrance fee required private soaking facility, again in Japanese style. Also known as Outariz Onsen they certainly deserve a visit, if not already spoilt for choice. Again tripadvisor is very positive. A blog report:
 'We paid our 5€ each and got our flip flops, towel and locker rentals and walked into the Termas de Outariz for a relaxing soak in the hot water. That was exactly what we got. It was wonderful and the sun was shining which really helped getting into a bathing suit in February. Japanese-inspired, with numerous styles of tubs and soaking areas, made it a great experience. There was the soaking cave, a good number of waterfalls, really shallow pools, individual tubs, huge massage jets and a sauna. Some tubs were definitely more hot than others and one was even too hot'.
Photos of Termas de Outariz, Ourense
 This photo of Termas de Outariz is courtesy of TripAdvisor.

Continuing downstream and beyond the iconic Pasarela de Outariz bridge are the pools named Pozas Outariz e Burgas de Canedo. Or commonly known Outariz again ...

The Purple Backpacker had this experience there:
'The springs themselves were wonderful, though a bit more regulated than I prefer. They are also clothing non-optional, which is no problem but a bit weird. Having grumpy people give you a discreet death glare for talking is less than ideal. And I managed to incur the wrath of the management by not wearing flip-flops. Hint: I don’t own any, they didn’t fit in my suitcase.  Of course, the fact that I slipped and bashed my knee on a rock didn’t really help my case when I was confronted by the guard-guy'.
From the bridge

Crossing this bridge and heading back towards town one will come by the Fonte de Reza, a small spring with water spouting at just above 30C.

This sort of sums up what is arguably one of Europe's premier soaking sites. With luck the whole upmarket wellness industry can be kept at arms length, certainly one of the best experiences of Ourense are the free for all hot pools!

Elsewhere in the province, there are a number of other hot springs to be discovered, some delightfully absent from development (see for instance the post on Bande). Others might give a quality experience for those in need: Termas Prexigueiro, Caldas de Partovia and Lobios Caldaria,