Snogged

 

Rich

The Azores and in particular the island of São Miguel are well-known for their volcanic origin. An origin which is still evident.

But it's especially the area in and around the village of Furnas, located in between the mountains on the east of São Miguel that really plays host as a geothermal hot spot.

From the wikipedia entry on Furnas:

'In the central part of the village, springs and geysers are prevalent; thirty springs, each of differing temperatures and chemical compositions, including warm iron-rich streams and piped examples of mineral-rich warm and cold water. The geysers are situated in several basins rich in sodium bicarbonate, boron, fluorine and traces of carbon dioxide'.

Maybe not on the same scale, it reminds one of Rotorua / Taupo (New Zealand), or certain areas of Iceland or the Italian island of Vulcano. And probably many more places on the globe yet to be witnessed by myself ...

I have no ambitions to make this the ultimate tourism reference entry to Furnas village, so suffice to say continuing reading this post you'll not be confronted with a never ending list of all what the village has on offer (and most of it being geothermal in origin).

Treats
But then again, there's quite a lot so I'll list what you should or shouldn't miss. Then continue with a soak at the Parque Terra Nostra and maybe in future a short entry on what's described (by those tourist PR persons) as a pool of paradise.

Anyway, nearly everybody enters the village from the west and after negotiating a curvy road over the watershed divide one suddenly arrives at the volcanic lake, Lagoa de Furnas. Walks are possible around the lake but note that on one side you'll be walking along the main road. 

At the far side of this lake is what is considered the main attraction of Furnas: a geothermal park with steaming and hissing pools, as well as boiling mud. Named Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas, visiting here requires an entrance fee which essentially is a labour programme; the fees are nothing exorbitant but cumbersome in all the administrative efforts which need to be met. Keeping a lot of people on the job. The site itself is ok, but nothing special. 

Much is made of the Furnas speciality for foodies: tossing everything in a pan and burying this pan to cook in the vicinity of the fumaroles. Named Cozido das Furnas (Furnas stew) it's not for vegetarians I believe ... 
Below is a photo of the various buried pots and hole's waiting for an upturn in tourism:

Continuing towards the village itself, you'll drop down over the side of the lake to Furnas which has an astonishing labyrinthal one-way system. Certainly for a village this size.

Listing
Things geothermal to look out for in / near the village:

• Caldeiras das Furnas, an area with many (22?) springs and fumaroles (photo below), just at the lower end of the village. Here's a little more info.

Note the nearby Observatorio Microbiano dos Acores. Tripadvisor gives this quaint institute / museum five stars. It is indeed worthwhile to walk through, note that they will even give you a full guide (speaking English) if required. Below an original tub from the termas.

 

• The Estação termal das Furnas (or as it's named now, the Furnas Boutique Hotel) is the hotel with access to it's own termae and is the official focal point of geothermal Furnas. Recently renovated it offers a number of "treatments" as well as possessing it's own indoor and outdoor pools with hot spring waters. Booking.com gives it a 9.2.

• Poça da Tia Silvina: a foot bath slash hot spring basin just upstream of the Boutique hotel just next to the river.

• Nascentes da Agua das Quenturas: a trio of springs opposite the Estação termal with each a different taste. Photo below:
  

• Banhos Férreos: a restaurant with indoor swimming pool with lukewarm but very iron laden waters. Even though the temperature of the spring is supposed to be 39°C (source). A meal here entitles you to a fee swim in the authentic pool. Tripadvisor notes just 3.5 stars. An experience of the soaking from tripadvisor:

  'Very relaxing, and not too hot, like some springs'.

  During my visit (photo below) it did not look like they were any takers ...:

 

• Praia de Fogo at nearby (7 km) Ribeira Quente. Rumor (?) has it that there are under water hot springs making this Fire Beach a little warmer than the ocean. Not noticeable on my visit, possibly due to wrong timing (come at low tide?)

Full info on all the features including other attractions of Furnas can be garnered from this government website.

 
Revelations

With this out of our way let's continuing with the hot spring of Parque Terra Nostra (Our Land) which is not your typical geothermal soak. 

It's located within a park, under the gaze of historical residence. 

The park itself is a haven for plants which enjoy the milder weather and high fertility of the soils. 

On a side track, did you know that Furnas is one of the few (if even there are others) where the taro plant is grown commercially in Europe? Back when I was a bit younger, my first job as an agriculture specialist was to assess taro plants in the South Pacific. It's very appealing to observe taro fields under irrigated circumstances (as in Furnas), similar to rice.

Anyway historically the residence and pond were first part of the residence of the honorary US consul of São Miguel back in the times when the waters around the Azores were teeming with whales. With the demise of the whales (thank you) the property reverted to Portuguese gentry control which expanded the park and buildings. However early last century neglect crept in only to be revived shortly before World War II; a period which also saw the hot spring pond expanded and sourced from hot spring water.

Parque Terra Nostra entrance

It's unclear where exact the springs itself source from. On the far side of this pond are two powerful spouts which seem the sole source of the geothermal waters. The pond is quite large, 50m in circumflex with still warm waters, depth would be around a meter and half.

We arrived late afternoon, an hour before closing time. It's a six euro entry fee. A 100m further one comes to the pond. To your left over the edge of the pond and sheltered within the greenery are a number of changing rooms, seeing brisk business this (Sunday) afternoon. 
A quick change and up to pool side. 
The orange tinted waters are warm, but not hot. One can drift around though setting up camp near the spouts ensures a warmer soak.

 

The change rooms revealed (not literally) that it's quite busy even though it's out of season. Many a tour group wander in and around.

What I do notice is the absence of showers. There was one, but didn't get used, though many a tourist changed poolside (discreetly, this is Portugal) so it's only guessing what the waters are like. This large body of water will not be flushed easily. Is this aspect underestimated?

Showers by the way would help post soaking, as the waters taint the lighter coloured bathing costumes a shade of orange.

No, no smell.

So not positive? Well, the large body of water gives enough private space and the greenery around makes it highly recommendable. It's an enjoyable way to end a day's visit to Furnas and surroundings.  

 

Spouts on the far side

 

Wear and tear
There's a hotel attached to the park  which is owned by the company named BenSaude. Booking.com gives this hotel an impressive 9.3; note hotel guests have access to pool beyond closing times for others ...

Other experiences are very positive. Tripadvisor notes 4.5 stars (400+ reviews), the no. 2 thing to do in Furnas. Extracts:

'The changing facilities are not great and I only found one outdoor shower but the experience is great'.

'I'd recommend wearing an older bathing suit as my light coloured bathing suit was stained even after washing it the same day'.

A lot of these reviews though are very recent which begs the question has there been a sudden influx of tourists? Due possibly to cheap flights (Ryanair / Easyjet)?

Finally, there's not much original experiences on the internet, it's mostly photo's. An exception, the Daily Telegraph (Mar 23, 2011) has an article which in it's first half describes a sojourn in Furnas. An excerpt on Terra Nostra:

'It is the Portuguese equivalent of Iceland's Blue Lagoon, a hot, murky lake with steam rising from it, fed by a geothermal spring and filled with bathers taking to the waters in pursuit of health, happiness and surreptitious snogging.

There the comparison ends, since this thermal pool in Furnas, on the island of Sao Miguel in the Azores, is muddy brown because of iron in the water and dyes your toenails orange, while the backdrop is not the Svartsengi power plant but the palms, ferns and conifers of a subtropical Atlantic forest'.

Aha?

It seems a bit of folly. On one of the hottest days of the year and we are seeking to visit one of Germany's and Europe's hottest hot springs (source). Hmmm ....

History

Besides having a uni, Aachen is is Germany's westernmost town. But it is more famous for it's thermal baths.

Sometimes known as Bad Aachen, the history of it's thermal springs goes back a long way, a very long way.

As is customary in Europe, there's little knowledge of pre-Roman use of hot springs and this applies to Aachen (French prefer Aix-La-Chapelle) as well. Possibly the lack of this can be explained by the fact that the pre-Roman civilisations were less intent on building elaborate facilities for the simple pleasure of being able to soak, nor was writing, recording and/or archiving one of their best skills.

So as elsewhere in Europe, it were the Romans that put the first permanent mark on Aachen. Not many people might notice, but the city's name of Aachen seems to have been derived from Roman:

'After all, Aachen means water, derived from the Roman name of "Aquae granni", which in turn stems from the Celtic god of healing Grannus [God of light and healing]'. 

This sourced from Aachen's city's website with extensive info on it's origin and history. 
There is though an alternative explanation for the city name, which dates the naming from before the Romans:

'Der Name "Aachen" leitet sich übrigens von "ahha", dem germanischen Wort für "Wasser" ab'.

Do I need to translate? Aachen = was Ahha = was Germanic for water.

Anyway, the entwined history of the city of Aachen and it's thermal baths continues. Again from the above mentioned city website:

'The spread of Christianity quickly and permanently put a stop to the physical and pleasure-orientated bathing culture of antique provenance.

Everywhere since the early Middle Ages, the benefits of water and sociability in water became discredited: after all, the concerns of the Church Fathers regarding the salvation in the next life and the corresponding spiritual purification in this life were what counted.

In such a climate of outright hostility towards the body, the pleasures of bathing no longer had a right to exist. Only in Aachen - thanks to Charlemagne - did bathing culture experience a short-lived new high point in the early Middle Ages.

Gladly told time and time again - but only borrowed from the realm of legends - is the story of Charlemagne's trusty horse, that pawed the ground with its hoof to expose the first hot spring and thus triggered the foundation of a residence at the same location. Historically correct, however, is that prior to this, Pippin, Charlemagne's father, was building an estate close to the former Roman cathedral thermal spring to which he would retreat on important special occasions. Like him, Charlemagne, whose swimming abilities were praised far and wide, appreciated relaxing at the hot springs. These were, according to the reports of his biographer Einhard, the reason for Charlemagne choosing Aachen as the permanent residence and political centre of this empire: "This is why he gladly settled in Aachen, and set up house which already had a warm bath in it."

For Charlemagne, a spacious thermal bathing facility was built on the ruins of the old Roman baths and in the immediate vicinity of his palace. He frequented the baths every day, and wherever possible was accompanied by family members, officials or guests.

In this regard at least, Charlemagne was committed to the spirit of antiquity, since, for him, too, besides the therapeutic function, bathing also had an important communicative and social role to play. Following his death, the bathing culture in Aachen diminished noticeably - and it has taken a few centuries for this city - that attracts bathing guests from all over the world - to experience for the third time an era of unspoilt bathing pleasures'.

Karl's (Charlemagne) significance in European history was high as his empire was one of the first to emerge from the post-Roman period, in the 8th / 9th century. Stretching from north Italy, it encompaased modern day France, Germany and the low countries.

 Carl's palace with his own thermen, see top right of the artists impression (source).

After the fall of the Charlemagne it is supposed that bathing in Aachen returned back to that of ruins, however in the latter part of the 16th century, thermal bathing gained in popularity with the European bourgeoisie and Aachen established itself as a main contender in the upcoming Euro bathing industry. It also ensured that Aachen returned to it's former glory with the establishment of parks, bathing facilities and hotels. 

However, it's popularity lead to a increasing numbers of visitors leading the snobs of Europe to seek more exclusive retreats, such as in Baden-Baden. Or possibly the richer soakers moved because the sulphuric nature of Aachen's thermal baths became attractive as a cure for syphilis (Wikipedia). Which somehow meant that many a sex-worker washed up here ...

 

Aachen Kaiserbad 1682 (Wikipedia).

Here's a link to a pdf presentation concerning the history of Aachen's thermal springs. The German wikipedia entry is the most extensive site of online information.

Sedation

Luckily, modern day soaking in Aachen has evolved and is now preferably a sedate affair; it seems that this is what Germans prefer and probably most of Europe's elder clientèle of hot springs. That might be it: in Europe one soaks sedately ...

Harking back to the old days, just outside Aachen's historic and busy center, local authorities have maintained a large park over some rolling hillocks. It's home to amongst others the local casino and exhibition hall. Hid away on the outskirts of the park and accessed from a quite city street are one of the few geothermal bathing facilities remaining in Aachen.
Aachen and environs actually host more than 20 separate hot springs, though many of these have been closed (source)! The city of Aachen (and neighbouring Burtscheid) still have 3 Kürkliniken (medical centers) which use thermal waters (source) as a medicine, but other than that there is just one hot spring in operation.

The aforementioned Charlemagne or Karl in German, was also known as Carolus in Latin. Thus it's the choice for the namesake of this only operating thermal bath in Aachen (source): Carolus Thermen.

The waters of Carolus Thermen are sourced from the Rosenquelle (45ºC). This hot spring is located beneath a store in the center of Aachen. Water is piped from the spring to the Carolus Thermen. Other thermal sources located in the city's center are likewise piped away. For instance for bottling purposes (Kaiserquelle / Kaiserbrunnen) of for the use in cosmetics.

Claiming pure thermal spring water as it's provenance, Carolus Thermen are a very modern affair. Completed in 2001, parking is ensured in it's adjacent parking garage. The entry hall is spacious and very, very large.

This way please

The check-in procedure is highly efficient. All is explained to us in 1 second, after which we handed two coins. Ummm? There doesn't seem to be room for questions so we quickly trot on to the next station.

We exchange notes: 

'So you didn't catch anything either? Nooo'. 

We watch as others put coin in locker and get a bracelet in return. Aha. We do likewise and head off for the changing rooms. Everything is highly efficient and before you know it we are to enter the thermen themselves. Note the mandatory shower sign, a good idea, as we have worked up a good sweat cycling here.

The inside lay-out is very clear. In the center is a large pool (34ºC), with a number of massage showers and overflowing jacuzzi's (36ºC) above. To your right comes an entrance to the outdoor pool (32ºC) with fountains and waterfall, again with a number of massage showers, next to that a chill bassin (18ºC) and a hot bassin (38ºC). Opposite is another outdoor pool and exit to sun decks, one with sand. To your left upstairs are restaurants. Below these are the staff offices.

It's very delightful, taking in all the different baths. Especially the high pressure massage showers are very nice. At the moment of arrival an aquarobics programme is taking place so we research the smaller pools. After the finish of that programme we swim a couple of rounds in the larger pool.

Mandated, ja!
Finally we go up the stairs to the wellness center on the third floor. What usually requires a double payment of the normal Thermen entrance fee of €11 (€12 on weekends; this fee is valid for 2,5 hours, add €1,5 thereafter for each extra hour with a max of €15), now comes for free as it also has an extensive outdoor component which is currently being renovated. 

Because the Carolus Thermen are a municipal business they can not charge a fee for sauna entrance only: this would be an unfair practice for private sauna businesses. A pity ...

Entrance is through a small locker room as here nakedness is mandatory, whereas the pools before it was forbidden. Seems a bit odd?

Sauna = sweating which is best done naked (better sweating / no build up of sweat in swimming clothes), but what about the other baths in the wellness area? Here also the hygiene reasoning? But why then isn't the full thermal complex nude mandatory? 

Especially with current fashions which seem to dictate for men boardies which are worn with underwear underneath (preferably with name of underpants sticking out)! Just the other week one of Hollands largest indoor pool complexes had to close and the water changed as they couldn't maintain healthy levels of swim water quality (source)! Makes you think that naturally bathing might have more merit ... But anyway, local customs, local fore

Behind the entrance to the wellness area stretch two floors of relaxation. The third floor is dedicated to the Baltic sauna: there are a number of sauna's (3), shower rooms, etc.

Down a floor is a huge Oriental bathing area, which is very, very nice. Much has been done to replicate the experience of a true Turkish bath and it certainly works. A great hamam, warm Roman baths and the centerpiece: a peaceful pool (with thermal water, 34ºC) under an arched roof.

And somewhere there are massage facilities and a small area set aside for women.

Hours and hours can be spent in the sauna / Turkish bath area. And that's not even counting the outside area which was out of bounds during our stay. Apparently out there are another 4 sauna's and a small outdoor pool.

Despite the zero entrance fee (which prohibits those not wanting to fork out more cash), there were considerably less visitors than in the thermen; somewhat surprisingly as the experience was certainly great / better!

But possibly the new global prudishness has had it's effects. In the thermal pool, there was a fair representation of locals and tourists: young, old, families, singles, Germans, Dutch but also those of ethnic descent. 
The dress code of the wellness center unfortunately probably precludes the latter, while with the odd exception, families also seem to opt out. Certainly their loss?

After having been sweating, soaking and bathing for hours we are getting pesky; time to head for inner city Aachen for a cafeine buzz and something to fill up on.

We needn't have. Reviews of Carolus Thermen amplty highlight the catering: good and cheap. Next time then?

Share to compare

Well despite the lack of anything that would remind us of it's natural origins, the facilities of course afford many a visitor an entertaining experience / interaction with hot springs. For instance the German World Cup squad in 2010 mentioned staying here as delightful.

But what do others really think?
Let's look at that leader of traveller feedback opinion, tripadvisor. Tripadvisor has a litany of reviews summarized in the 4.5 stars given. Most use superlatives to describe the place. Interesting are the mostly English comments on the naked experience:

'For those who are apprehensive or fearful about going "textile-free", don't worry. The sauna is a place of rest and relaxation and people here are just minding their own business and relaxing. Within minutes, you'll totally forget your inhibitions and feel comfortable in your own skin. Soon, you'll lose track of time, realize you've spent more time relaxing than you imagined and you'll even find it difficult to leave! 
...
This is not a cheap experience, but it's great value for money. Don't bother with the thermal pools, they're pretty average, and head straight for the sauna. Any self-consciousness about mixed naked bathing disappears in a few minutes.
...
And then there's the upstairs part. For most UKers it's an eye opener, but when in Germany... Removing swimsuits was very liberating.... Steam rooms and outdoor heated pools were simply amazing. So relaxing to wander round with nothing on.
Only disappointment is that after this no UK spa will be able to compete. Feels wrong to wear a swimsuit in a sauna now!
...
Bathing costumes here are not allowed; most people walk around with towels but the saunas and pools themselves are required nude areas. Sexes are mixed and the Germans are very casual and relaxed about nudity here. Accepted etiquette precludes inappropriate behavior, and I found it very natural and comfortable - and wonderfully relaxing in the saunas and pools. 
...
The Germans and social nudity. Truly refreshing. Truly breathtaking. It’s second nature and it’s relaxed. If the whole world had the philosophy towards the naked body as do the Germans, well, then the world would be a safer and a more rewarding place.
Many note the friendly staff, which I must admit, they are everywhere, smiling and maintaing the cleanliness of the facilities'.

And when the reviews switch to those by non-English speakers, there's hardly a sentence on the wellness customs, how come?

Happy (Euro) face? source

So if compared to those facilities in South Europe why the mass appeal of thermal facilities here? 
Much has been done to appeal to all age groups while setting up the facilities, it's not for the sedate only. Modernized and clean it uses modern PR to reach out. For instance Facebook (note 12,000+ likes!). Another initiative: by donating blood at a local hospital, you can gain free entrance to the Carolus Thermen (but not valid for the same day!).
So there are ways to attract visitors is to keep up with in-crowd!

That said I felt the distinct lack of naturalness unearthing. There's little that discerns this from any other wellness / swimming pool experience in Germany. The water's said to be sulfated; well I didn't smell anything.
Yes, it's all very hygienic, clean, etc. Staff nice, not too expensive and yes, a great experience, but natural? Can I say no?

I'll leave you with a youtube intro vid:

Postscript (2022): based solely on the wellness section, the experience could be rated with a seven. Positive, the big bath, the space. Not so good, the catering, small outside section.

Antique

X for Xamam

Located just within Greece are the hamams of Loutra Agistro (Aggistro / Angistron / Angistro / Agistron / Agkistro or simply Άγκιστρο).

Agistro is a small village on the northern flanks of Serres region, with view of Bulgaria. Even though it's hid from the rest of Greece by the Agistro and Orvilos mountains, it's easy to find, not a difficult route at all. Take the last turn off the main motorway from Thessaloniki to Sofia before the border at Promachonas and follow the winding road for about 7 km. In Agistro village itself, take a road right and continue to the end about 500m. 

There you will find the Hotel Xamam.

Byzantine baths

Hotel Xamam is a small rural, but modern hotel (opened in 2007?) built around the sole remaining ancient hamam bath. This bath stakes claim to date from the mid-Byzantine era, around the years 900-1000, making it over a thousand years old.

The recent reconstructed hotel has expanded and updated on the Byzantine baths theme. 

Using the original spring and adding several dome like structures there are now 7 or 8 hamams, each containing a 4 by 4 meter bath complete with hot water fountains. 
The newer domes themselves imitate their ancient ancestor in maintaining atmosphere with high temperature and high humidity; the ceiling of the dome contains a few open spaces for air to escape and light to come in.

Despite the absence of naturalness, a half hour soak (5€) is great to unwind. The baths are clean and contain a changing room / toilet. 
The baths are supplied by gushing water from two spouts, great for massage. Really wonderful.

Four by four meters, but five star ambiance

Besides the hamam baths and normal hotel facilities, Xamam hotel (& spa) also offers a real (Scandinavian) sauna and massage services.

Turkish

It's typical when thinking of a hamam to think of Turkish baths with their distinctive layout of various cooling and heating spaces. However the tradition of the hamam pre-dates the Ottoman empire and has it's roots in the Byzantine era when the then rulers successfully maintained the Roman traditions of bathing alive by creating and evolving their own type of bath houses. 

In reality there are actually not many hamams with original hot water sources. And bath tubs are certainly not integral to what we now understand as a Turkish hamam. However there a few hot springs in this part of Greece, here in Agistro and in Thermes (Xanthi) which claim both to be a hamam and have a hot spring as source. 

Also the tell-tale sign of domed roofs which are an essential part of the Turkish bath process of keeping the steam condensation in, are thus traced to the Byzantine era. 

For more info on Hamam's and their history seek out the excellent pages by cyberbohemia or just wikipedia.

Shadows

The hotel website itself adds (in Greek) quite a lot on the local village and it's historic ups and downs. 

Tripadvisor though, is not so positive on the hotel ... 3 stars out of 5, but only based on 1 stay. Possibly not the best place to stay overnight. But to bathe I would  5 stars!

Hotel Xamam should not be confused with Pararaia Hotel, also in Agristo. It's web site adds (in English): 

'Agistro has a natural hot water spring, with a stone-built Byzantine bath dating back to 950 A.D. Water temperature is 38°C (100°F) and each of the eight spa baths available is rented for half hour sessions to couples, families and groups. Dense vapour, reflections and shadows are the stepping stones to a watery world.

The atmosphere is dreamy, mystical, transcendental. Serenity, relief, relaxation, revitalisation a newfound body sensation as you immerse gradually into the warm comfort of the 38° C water. Reconcilement and total identification with nature, transcending material existence. Savour it all by yourself, as a couple or in the company of friends, any hour of the day. Experience the sense of peacefulness and relaxation provided by the thermal spa and its therapeutic mineral water'.

 

The original hamam adjacent to the new building.

This website adds:

'Initially built in 950 and later modified by the Ottomans, the Agistro hamam was recently restored and has since acquired considerable fame among spa connoisseurs'.

An experience blogged by Rice, beans and pistachio:

'We got undressed and opened the door to the bath and steam rolled out the door. The room was lit only by a blue light. The water was gushing from 2 separate spouts out of the wall into the bath. It was absolutely a dream. We got into the bath and the water was so warm I was relaxed almost instantly. I could feel the minerals in the warm water soothing my aches away'.

More photo's here.

On a minor note, the warm water also helps a local trout farm (source).

Thermalgreece.com is a commercial company which does the following:

'Thermal Greece has been established to offer health and healing holidays in selected natural hot springs and spas across Greece'. 

Amongst it's offerings are the baths / hamams of Agistro:

'Agistron natural thermal spring is situated in a beautiful mountainous area in Macedonia, north Greece. In antiquity, the greater area of the spring has been famous for iron and gold mining. The spring first became known during the age of Alexander the Great, (356 – 323 BC). Since then it has remained in use, with an interruption only during the second Wold War, when the village was almost completely destroyed. Until today, the steam (Hamam) building and the tower of the village, constructed in Agistron during the Byzantine times in 950 AC, remain intact and serve as cultural land mark monuments of the spring’s region.
...
Agistron hot spring ιs considered to be among the best in Europe and the underground water at 40.5°C is ideal for many disorders. Among them, rheumatism, arthritis, displaced spinal disc and muscle pain. The water contains sodium, calcium, potassium, sulphuric acid, hydrogen carbonate and iron. It is characterized as oligometallic and hypotonic therapeutic thermal water'. 

Then follows a chemical analysis of the waters. Costs are nearly 700€ for a 7-day stay, hotel full board.

What else is hot?

Besides visits over the border to Bulgaria and hikes up the surrounding mountains, the main attraction in this area is the Kerkini Lake which shimmers in the heat and reflects the surrounding mountains. Kerkini Lake is home to huge amounts of breeding bird life, in particular the Dalmatian pelican.  

Access to the bird colonies goes via the village of Kerkini in the northeast corner of the lake. For 7,50€ one is taken by boat across the lake to a flooded plain with trees brimming with nests. And a number of platforms for the top cats of the reservation, the pelicans.

 Nesting Dalmatian pelicans

Located between Kerkini and Agistro is another hot spring; that of Sidorokastro:

'The Sidirokastro Hot Springs have a temperature of 45°. They are just outside the town to the north, near the Strymonas River railway-bridge, on a hill that offers panoramic views of the area. Thousands of people go to these hot springs every year, both for recreation or therapy, especially since the recent renovation of the area's tourist facilities' (Wikipedia). 

The hotel (& spa) website adds:

'Spa resort has been well-known since the ages of Byzantium. Elvia Chelebi, a famous traveler witnessed them been used in 1667, when Turkey ruled the area and 19 years later they are honored by Nicolas Shoinas (in its work "Traveling Notes") for their sanitarian benefits'.

Still within Serres region, but much closer to Thessaloniki are the hot springs of Therma, Nigrita. What's more?

'The Nigrita Thermal Springs are known throughout Greece for their mineral water, which is bottled locally and sold nationally, and the springs themselves are believed to ease gastrointestinal ailments'.

There is also a mention of Megali Vrisi hot springs in the neighbouring region Kiklis (to the north of Kiklis town, which itself is just north of Thessaloniki). 

Nearby this hot spring is a different kind of hydro-therapy, Lake Pikrolimini, just south of Kiklis  town: 

'It is estimated that treatment based on sulfur mud that comes from the neighboring Pikrolimni. It is also said that Alexander the Great brought his army here in the course of baths in the East.
This is the only salt lake in Greece. The peculiarity of this lake is that both the clay and the water, contain valuable minerals and trace minerals with significant therapeutic and rejuvenating properties due to sulphates and nitrates of clay found in the lake bottom'. (source)

If only I had known ...