Strict

A shortish review of some sauna fcailties of Hotel Kastenholz, a 4 star rural hotel in the village of Wershofen, Eifel, Germany.

Available were one indoor sauna and one outdoor sauna. 

For reasons unknown both were the same temperature whereas the bio sauna (indoors), which could have been less hotter (than 85ºC), was not turned on. Hmmm.

Both sauna's rather small but otherwise nice.

There is also a steamroom. And the usual showering facilities.

Furthermore on the same floor are relax facilities, outdoors as well. Though the view (which could have been magnificent) is hidden by a small hill. Also meaning no one also can look in.

Upstairs is a small swimming pool and more relax facilities

Everything is very much an add-on to the hotel facilities: it's there, but if all guests decide to enjoy, it will swiftly become overcrowded. 

Management also seem to have a laissez-faire attitude. Can the swimming pool be used naked? Can the sauna be used clothed? Or is both possible?

Possibly.

The swim results in some light irritation to my skin (I'm chloride allergic) due to high chloride levels. So either they are using chloride just in case or are those swimming simply not so clean? In the latter case, it's not so nice to know that those swimmers also use the sauna .....

My score, a 7,5 based on the light winter traffic. Possibly not worth of a repeat.

Do note that the surroundings of the hotel are very picturesque, and very walkable.

There are other reviews, though these mostly concern the hotel, chucking in the odd mention of a sauna.

• 4.4 stars from google (480+ reviews)
• 4 stars tripadvisor (80+ reviews)

'dem Wellnessbereich fehlte der Charm'

• 8,6 booking.com (80+ reviews)

'Sauna rule (nacktbereich)should be more strict. (now swim wear and no swim wear people mixed)'.

Indulged

Current trends in the wellness sauna world of continental Northwest Europe are increasingly favouring larger and more luxurious soaking palaces. 

It's not really obvious to me what's driving this. Maybe mere marketing, but arguably larger resorts can cater to more tastes, can offer often required levels of anonymity (no need to run into your neighbour/boss/in-laws etc.) and can set higher standards for catering. These larger places certainly have an appeal, even I am somewhat apprehensive to indulge smaller sauna set ups, especially if not exactly around the corner.

But on the other side of the sauna / wellness market are the smaller family-run saunas which often rely on a steady amount of local clients, often regulars. 

This experience involves the latter.

During the end of 2022 holidays, we were stuck in Bruges after experiencing the neat Groeninger museum. The weather was poor and we were in need of a solacing place, considering we had been stuck inside for a Corona related quarantine period. 

Knowing that the smaller wellness, Caldare (in Torhout, located 20 minutes drive south of Bruges) is probably the best on offer nearish Bruges (which despite all it's significance on tourism really misses a great wellness space not too far from town; even in it's Middle age heydays, Bruges was well known for it's soaking stoofs; but that's another story to be shared), the plan was to spend the afternoon indulging in the heat on offer. 

I called ahead, they were nowhere near sold out (but massages were; it can happen during holidays, packed wellness places: clearly there's more market for more wellness places). So off we went.

Family run Caldare is not very big. There's a small parking area (why are these public soaking places always so poorly accessed if by public transport?) in front of a bigger villa in suburban Torhout.

One enters and is welcomed. 

Upstairs are the changing rooms and some massage rooms. 

After disrobing it's back down the stairs. 

There's a central showering place with a small indoor swimming pool complete with jacuzzi corner, a well heated small steam room, a bio sauna (usually less hot), a Finnish sauna and a cooling off corner (bucket style cold). 

To the side, there's a door which gives access to the small bistro / relax space (with free scented water; a nice touch). 

A backdoor opens to the garden, with another structure offering a relax space and a larger sauna. Besides the lawns, there's another cooling down corner complete with cold plunge unit.

Though Caldare was not sold out on our visit, the place was very much filled to it's max. 

With an Aufguss regime of every 90 minutes, it entailed that all guests followed the same routine, making the place feel even more cramped. If not following the regime though, you would believe the place was not busy at all! 

During the second Aufguss we experienced, 37 participants were counted, which regulars considered highly significant. This 30+ was also just above the capacity of the restaurant. But despite this, the service was very good: lots of hard work.

All in all it's a very neat and well maintained place with enough sauna related activities to satisfy oneself for a 3-4 hours sojourn. 

Good points are the regular Aufguss (even though it tended to drive customers through the facilities on offer), the well-heated saunas, the hot steam room as well as the various places to cool down. Catering was limited, but excellent service.

Outside the holiday periods, there are also opportunities to participate in yoga lessons, a trend I've observed more during the past year. 

Caldare does miss an outside pool.

My marks a solid 8: 8.5 would be perfect.

Other reviews are likewise consistently high (up to Jan. 2023). 

Google: 4.4 (28 reviews, nearly 100% in Dutch), Facebook: 4.9 (96 reviews, all Dutch) and Tripadvisor: 4.5 (27 reviews, again exclusively Dutch). So my praise is not alone.

Revisited 2024: less enthusiastic, it's a drag that the food options are far from overwhelming. Cost €34 the head.

What's brewing ...

This website has the distinction of focusing on what remains of the natural state concerning hot springs of Europe. Most news is bad news, i.e. another source falling victim to development. Thus the re-existence of a lost hot spring is some good news.

On the Canary island of La Palma lies the town of Fuencaliente. Despite this being a direct translation of hot springs there were none.
Lapalma-island.com:

'Fuencaliente means “Hot Spring”. The southernmost municipality takes its name from the hot spring which seeped out into pools on Echentive beach. It was famous for curing all kinds of sickness, including leprosy and syphilis, so Fuencaliente used to attract sick people from all over Europe and even South America. That’s the setting for “A Star in the Water”, one of the stories in “The Seer’s Stone“.
And then Volcan San Antonio erupted in 1677 and buried it under 40 metres of lava'.

Apparently it was rediscovered in 2005 deep down in the earth and a tunnel was built to assist in finding the water. 
But only just recently have the public been allowed to access the tunnel (source) which gives access to a few small, what best could be described as, puddles. Wonder what the future plans are .... 

I'll be heading to south Spain later this year. It's always fun to seek out what lies ahead. Who has heard of Cuevas Hammam Abuelo Jose near Guadix, Andalucia? Well, it might not be totally what I'm looking for, but north of the Sierra Nevada are a number of wildish hot springs to visit. Coming to you soon?

I'll have to look this place up:

'Termas de santa fe. Granada, Andalucia. #dragon #festival #granada #santafe #termas #hot #water #onelove #burnbabilon #chillout #relax #takeiteasy #yah #jungle #paradaise #fucknormal #freeparty #rave #kaotik #fyahburn #runaway #roadtozion #happiness

Source

 

Sascha
Coming up as a regular feature in future postings here, we will have the honour of reviews from around Europe by Sascha: let's term them Sascha's soaks:

Sascha's soaks

Ischia, Italy

On Ischia, there seem to be three natural hot springs. All the other are commercial ones, whereas some of them are very beautiful and definitively recommended. Two of the three natural hot springs are only usable at low tide. 

When I was there, I could see the hot water coming out of the sea, but there was not enough hot water to soak. The one which remains, is on the sea near Sant Angelo (Sorgeto). The water comes out of the rocks at 90°C and flows into the sea. In some areas cold water needs to be mixed up, on other places the water keeps the same warm temperature. Unfortunately, this spot was too touristic for me, as you can see on the picture.

My evaluation: 3 stars (I prefer pools with a constant temperature in a less touristic spot).

Around the continent

Further afield: Abkhazia. Apparently named Kyndygsky (or Kyndyg) hot spring, the water is boiling hot. Used to be a lot more primitive, seems that new Russian money has arrived. But where are the soakers?

Кындыгский горячий источник вот так выглядит днем Скважина считается высокотермальной, температура на выходе около 100 градусов. Настоящий кипяток. Вода течет по системе желобов и постепенно охлаждается до температуры приемлемой для человеческого тела. Здесь можно принять мощный напористый горячий душ и искупаться в нескольких бассейнах. Также есть лечебные грязи. Вода хлоридная, кальциево-натриевая pH 7,5.

 Source

Armenia

Where does Europe stop / start? The picture below is from a muddy hot spring in Armenia (source). On the edge of Europe? The hot spring of Hankavan is not really muddy, more sulpheric.

#hotspring #thermal #mudbath #Estonians
 

France

Via my tumblr site, Noel sent me a dozen or more photo's from a visit to Rennes les Bains:

'Rivière salé de Rennes les Bains. Cet endroit se nomme “La fontaine des amours” Elles se trouve à Rennes les Bains dans le sud de la France. Sur les bords de celle ci se trouve un lot d’inscription datant de 1800 voir 1851. Plein de messages d’amours y sont gravé dans le roc et les arbres bordant cette rivière. Beaucoup de couple y viennent de nuit var il y a de jolies bassins étagés. Non loin de là à moins d’un kilomètres se trouve une source chaude ferrugineuse ainsi qu’un lavoir que l’on nomme ” les bains forts”

Source chaude des bains doux de Rennes les Bains dans le sud de la France. Cette une eau chaude à 33° en permanence été comme hiver. L’eau sort en dessous des anciens thermes. Le 26 septembre 1992 il y a eu une très grosse inondation qui à littéralement nettoyé le rivages. Cette une eau thermale de très bonne qualité…'.

Hungary

CNN (June 27) has a presentation on Hungary's best spa's, all based on thermal waters. The article also seeks to warn it's readers:

'There's an emphasis on health and well being, so many of the facilities are more functional than plush'. 

What's wrong with functional?

Iceland

Did we know that Iceland is hiding hot springs from us unsuspecting folks? My1stimpressions:

'Hidden in a canyon of lava stones difficult and dangerous to reach for those who are not used to, there is a hot spring of clear blue water waiting for you. The place is like a hidden forgotten paradise on Earth. At times it gets really full of locals who use to go there to bath and drink in company. Sometimes they enlight candles in it, making the atmosphere even more magic. They say young Icelanders are allowed to get down there only when they are teenagers, and imagining the adventure that means at that age makes you feel jealous of them.

Tourists are not allowed. The place is in a private property whose landlord has allowed locals to bath in it. Only locals. No tourists please. That’s what makes this place special. It is still a place where you can find the pure Iceland'. 

But the you used, is not you! 

Hrunalaug source

But don't count the inventiveness of the tourists out. The Reykjavik Grapevine (May 3):

'RÚV reports that construction workers for the tunnel found themselves in the position of having to act as lifeguards as well. About half a dozen tourists were spotted – and photographed – bathing in a steaming creek of water near the construction area.
While the heat of the water is a comfortable 40°C, it is not one of Iceland’s many natural geothermally-heated creeks and pools. Rather, it is run-off from the drilling of the Vaðlaheiði tunnel, near Akureyri'.

The Iceland Review  (July 18) keeps us abreast of the legalities of admission fees in Iceland for the use of what are essentially nature's gifts:

'The magistrate in Húsavík has placed an injunction on the collection of admission fees at the hot springs by Námaskarð and the Leirhnúkur-Krafla caldera, by the Association of Landowners at Reykjahlíð'.

However then comes the following news (Iceland Review, July 25): 

'Travel agencies have been warned not to take tourists to certain areas near Lake Mývatn after an injunction was placed on fee collection in the area, in particular to the hot springs near Námaskarð and the caldera of Leirhnjúkur-Krafla where the landowners at Reykjahlíð have been charging for admission over the past month'.

The gloves are off?

Italy

A bit off-topic (well not really): the Guardian (25 April) gives us a Top 10 Wild swimming locations in Italy. Great natural places to be. It includes Terme del Bullicame in Lazio near the Tuscan border.

Talking of Tuscany, if you're interested in other uses of geothermality you need not to look any further than there. The novel part, as reports thinkgeoenergy (July 23), is that geothermal steam is now an integral part of the process of brewing beer with names as double malt Magma, Sulfurea pale ale and the Weiss Geyser!

'A huge range of products have been created thanks to EGP’s geothermal energy in the small towns of the Tuscan hills. A number of agricultural enterprises in Monterotondo Marittimo use steam from EGP’s plants in the production of their pit-aged cheeses, just like pork meat factories do for the aging of their Cinta Senese sausages. The geothermal menu also includes vegetables: each year Parvus Flos, a cooperative in Radicondoli near Siena, produces more than 12 tonnes of organic basil that is cultivated in 20,000 square metres of greenhouses heated with steam from EGP facilities'.

Spain

Day Four: I spent the whole day swimming in the hot springs just outside Valencia! It was amazing!! #valencia #spain #hotsprings #eurotrip 

Source

Not really hot, the Fuente de Los Baños springs delivers waters at about 25 C. Weekends see big crowds.

Turkey

Earlier this year, Nomadikat visits Bursa, Turkey and does the hamam at Karamustafa Kaplicalan. Her account:

'"Turkish baths are a traditional thing," Mehpare explained, "Not many young people go anymore. Turkish Baths are not at all hip – they are considered to be somewhere our grandparents go." She went on to explain how some doctors prescribed visits to the Turkish Baths for various medical conditions, from arthritis to herniated discs. That explained why a lot of women were not in the best shape, and watching a bunch of half-naked women scrub one another was not exactly the scene from a stag film that one might imagine.

At first, I wore my bikini, as I initially did not want to go topless. I was slightly uncomfortable, and a bit plagued by my American nudiphobia. This would be cured, though, by the time I went for my massage. All of the women at the bathhouse were totally topless. It was normal practice to be almost nude'.

Eventually though she loves the experience though hates the lack of hygiene.

Cultural connection

Perfect Isolation

The Pomakohoria area of Xanthi region, (Thrace / Greece) lies close to the Bulgarian border. This area is best described as:

'Among the mountain villages stand out [in Xanthi region] the “Pomakohoria”, a cluster of approximately 40 villages north of Xanthi, renowned for their cultural and architectural uniqueness'.

Odd is that the most authoritative source of info in English on this area is no other than Lonely Planet Greece [1]:

'These 25-or-so villages host a unique population of Bulgarian-speaking muslims, the Pomaks [or Pomach], who spill across the borders and whose ethnic identity is a subject of some uncertainty (even to themselves)'.

Besides the physical isolation, typical of most mountainous areas, Pomokohoria was off limits in the post-second world war set-up. However with the thawing of relations between what was once West and East, this area opened up to the outside world.

This relative isolation has resulted in the villages and their inhabitants themselves (Pomaks) becoming a prime attraction: a way to see the muslim world without leaving Greece proper.

Luckily for the avid soaking enthusiasts there are also hot springs to visit in Pomokohoria. Located at what might be the end of the winding and hilly road originating from Xanthi town are the villages of three villages of Thermes: Ano (High), Meso (Middle) and (Lower) Thermes. All apparently host a hot spring or two, so I learnt. Also note that the wikipedia link mentioned to Thermes has a couple of photo's of the springs taken during winter ...

Nosing around

When trying to reach the Thermes, one needs to leave Xanthi city northwards, go up the valley to Smythine, cross the mountains to Echinos and cross the mountains once more to pass all three Thermes villages to arrive at Thermes itself! Or so I believe.

Thermes though is not a village but rather a number of buildings which have sprung up around a number of hot spring sources. The buildings are a school, a government office, a church, a mosque, two restaurants and something that may pass as a hotel and the bathing facilities themselves.

The modern soak pool

Opposite the hotel on a bluff above the river stand two buildings each containing a large enclosed pool. An entrance fee is required but nosing around today is also possible; it’s a slow day.

If one then walks down to the river (back north) midway down is another pool building with an outside pool. The inner pool is in a slowly crumbling once modern building, while next to this is a large (6 x 6m) outdoor pool, open to heaven and with a small opening in the otherwise very closed aluminium fence. 
A gentleman can be observed soaking here. 
We don’t know what the custom is here, are we allowed to join? Can genders mingle?

The outer open air pool with a couple of inner pools behind. The latter not so nice

So to overthink this quandrum, we wander even further down the road.

I remember that my eye caught a dome like structure on the drive in, but fail to re-see this close to the river. We wander down a side path to observe the fast flowing river and there, not more than a meter from the fast flowing river is the entrance to the elusive dome. 

The path leading to the dome soak. 

Note on the left the build up of minerals and the river to the right.

An elderly couple just pop out, presumably just having bathed. 

Next to the dome is a wall of mineral build-up which is slowly expanding from the off–flow of many of Thermes springs.

Soakability

We regather our things and enter the dome. Inside is a pool with some hooks and a crooked wooden bench. 

The once modern door can be locked but a large brick remains to somehow assist the locking process. We undress and despite Lonely Planets call 

('don't forget that since Pomakohoria is a conservative area the baths are no place for debauchery, shouting or gleeful nudity'),

undress every stitch and slip in the quite hot pool, choosing the gleeful option!

Maybe the brick was meant as a possible way to keep the door blocked but not locked so as to enable the air flow to continue because soon we are hot, very hot. Steam everywhere.

I read somewhere that temperatures of these hots springs are from 40 to 53. The soak lasts 20 minutes, during which we admire the old structure (originally constructed in 1928) and listen to the gushing sounds of the river. 
It’s a pity that one can not immerse one self in the crippling cold stream; it’s not our state of dress which is holding us back, rather the swiftness of the river which would probably take us with itself.

We redress, return to the modern world and walk up the hill for a cold drink.

What does this learn us? One would believe nature is bliss, but so is bathing in a historic building. And simple. 

Bulgarian connection
When originally built it was clear that the emphasis was on heat and body, while having a large enough pool to enable a couple of friends / family to enjoy. The river might have had another stream bed so jumping in might well have been possible then. 
It’s only since the arrival of modernity that somehow this frowned on. 

Further info is also scarce.

A website dedicated to Thermes by Nikolaos Kokkas has a nice write up. What do we learn? 

'The Healing Baths are in a small settlement where hot waters are everywhere springing.
...
Personal showers were added to the private baths in 1998. There are toilets also.
...
At the taverns of the area you can eat delicious cooked hot lamp or soutzoukakia (meatballs) along with other roasted meat, while you will find warm hospitality at the hostels.
...
Near the old hamam (bath) of the Thermes community, there is an older hamam that was reconstructed by the Bulgarians in 1941 but was open only till 1928 [!?]'.

Maro Kouri has a nice photo of the dome, completely white-washed (on the outside).

Interestingly, the local use of the baths / hamam stands in stark contrast to the fate of traditional hamams in general. In the blog mediterraneanespalimpst it argues the following:

'Today hammams are supported largely, and in some cases entirely, by external and internal tourism. In fact, Cichocki [2] argues convincingly that the advent of tourism saved Istanbul’s few remaining hammams in the 20^th century. She interviewed the management and staff of the Cemeberlitas hammam, who claimed that without tourists their entire operation would fold and all baths in Istanbul would be closed today. Of course, to the western tourist the hammam has become the quintessential “eastern” or “oriental” experience, something viewed as authentic and necessary when visiting Istanbul and Turkey, despite the fact that very few Turks have ever set foot in one (as Cichocki notes). She also mentions the “internal” tourism of some Istanbullers today—those who use the hammam as a means to connect with their own cultural legacy, heritage and history'.

Traditional minarets adorn the countryside

Flourishing? 
Sounding similar, the hot spring of Thermies (or Thermia) is in fact quite a distance away. Located actually in Drama region it can be accessed from the town of Paranesti by heading up along the Nestos river and then heading for the Forest of Fraktos. With little local population living nearby this soak has been able to maintain a low profile and seems (hopefully for ever) to be void of many the modern day wellness hoopla. 

This website has a picture which adds not too much more knowledge and after translation we learn this:

'The sources come from the depths of the mountains are concentrated in smaller sources and there with tires arrive in specially built "pools" two to three people with restricted plates. Water is the basis of samples that have been drinking and has a temperature of 50-60 degrees Celsius.Some of the sources are so hot of course that does not withstand your body. With proper search of course but also asking residents there you will find one that suits you'.

Greece's official tourism website adds:

'The thermal spas of Thermia are located 73 km away from Drama on the road lnking Drama to Paranesti and Fraktos Forest. The thermal spring is located 25 km to the north of the town of Paranesti, at an altitude of 620 m, where an old stone-built spa provides evidence of human presence throughout many centuries. Nowadays, natural baths are used and the development of the region is under consideration'.

This website has more bad news for natural soaking enthusiasts and conservationists:

'The Municipality Paranestiou is currently drafting studies on the re-certification of sources according to the new legislation, in order to exploit the natural resources in the creation of a center thermalism'

On the other side of Xanthi city, near the airport and coast is the hot spring of  Nea Kassani.

Furtheraway, close to the Turkish border are the hot springs of Traianoupoli. Here is just one of the few links to the not yet modernized soaking facilities.

'Trianoupoli [baths] flourished during the Byzantine ages, but at the end of this period, the region became completly depopulated'. (source)

Niche
With this blog published, it draws close a four-chaptered feature of Greek Macedonia and Thrace hot springs (of which there are reputed to be in excess of 140 soaks [3]!); hopefully an area which despite current-day economic harshness will continue to maintain it's historic and natural hot springs without caving-in to short term cash gains. 

The future I believe of any hot spring is to seek a niche rather than cater to the masses.

Notes:

[1]: Miller, K., A. Averbuck, A. Schulte-Peevers, R. Waters, M. Stamatios Clark, V. Kyriakopoulos, D. Hannigan, K. Armstrong, C. Deliso (2012) Lonely Planet Greece. Lonely Planet, Melbourne, Australia
[2]: Cichocki, N. (2005) “Continuity and Change in Turkish Bathing Culture in Istanbul: The Life Story of the Çemberlitas Hamam.” Turkish Studies 6.1: 93-112. 
[3]: Anon. (2012) Thermal springs and Thermalism from Ancient times until Today in Greece. Comenius Project Italy-Spain-Austria-Portugal-Greece 2010-2012 <!--[if gte mso 9]>

Antique

X for Xamam

Located just within Greece are the hamams of Loutra Agistro (Aggistro / Angistron / Angistro / Agistron / Agkistro or simply Άγκιστρο).

Agistro is a small village on the northern flanks of Serres region, with view of Bulgaria. Even though it's hid from the rest of Greece by the Agistro and Orvilos mountains, it's easy to find, not a difficult route at all. Take the last turn off the main motorway from Thessaloniki to Sofia before the border at Promachonas and follow the winding road for about 7 km. In Agistro village itself, take a road right and continue to the end about 500m. 

There you will find the Hotel Xamam.

Byzantine baths

Hotel Xamam is a small rural, but modern hotel (opened in 2007?) built around the sole remaining ancient hamam bath. This bath stakes claim to date from the mid-Byzantine era, around the years 900-1000, making it over a thousand years old.

The recent reconstructed hotel has expanded and updated on the Byzantine baths theme. 

Using the original spring and adding several dome like structures there are now 7 or 8 hamams, each containing a 4 by 4 meter bath complete with hot water fountains. 
The newer domes themselves imitate their ancient ancestor in maintaining atmosphere with high temperature and high humidity; the ceiling of the dome contains a few open spaces for air to escape and light to come in.

Despite the absence of naturalness, a half hour soak (5€) is great to unwind. The baths are clean and contain a changing room / toilet. 
The baths are supplied by gushing water from two spouts, great for massage. Really wonderful.

Four by four meters, but five star ambiance

Besides the hamam baths and normal hotel facilities, Xamam hotel (& spa) also offers a real (Scandinavian) sauna and massage services.

Turkish

It's typical when thinking of a hamam to think of Turkish baths with their distinctive layout of various cooling and heating spaces. However the tradition of the hamam pre-dates the Ottoman empire and has it's roots in the Byzantine era when the then rulers successfully maintained the Roman traditions of bathing alive by creating and evolving their own type of bath houses. 

In reality there are actually not many hamams with original hot water sources. And bath tubs are certainly not integral to what we now understand as a Turkish hamam. However there a few hot springs in this part of Greece, here in Agistro and in Thermes (Xanthi) which claim both to be a hamam and have a hot spring as source. 

Also the tell-tale sign of domed roofs which are an essential part of the Turkish bath process of keeping the steam condensation in, are thus traced to the Byzantine era. 

For more info on Hamam's and their history seek out the excellent pages by cyberbohemia or just wikipedia.

Shadows

The hotel website itself adds (in Greek) quite a lot on the local village and it's historic ups and downs. 

Tripadvisor though, is not so positive on the hotel ... 3 stars out of 5, but only based on 1 stay. Possibly not the best place to stay overnight. But to bathe I would  5 stars!

Hotel Xamam should not be confused with Pararaia Hotel, also in Agristo. It's web site adds (in English): 

'Agistro has a natural hot water spring, with a stone-built Byzantine bath dating back to 950 A.D. Water temperature is 38°C (100°F) and each of the eight spa baths available is rented for half hour sessions to couples, families and groups. Dense vapour, reflections and shadows are the stepping stones to a watery world.

The atmosphere is dreamy, mystical, transcendental. Serenity, relief, relaxation, revitalisation a newfound body sensation as you immerse gradually into the warm comfort of the 38° C water. Reconcilement and total identification with nature, transcending material existence. Savour it all by yourself, as a couple or in the company of friends, any hour of the day. Experience the sense of peacefulness and relaxation provided by the thermal spa and its therapeutic mineral water'.

 

The original hamam adjacent to the new building.

This website adds:

'Initially built in 950 and later modified by the Ottomans, the Agistro hamam was recently restored and has since acquired considerable fame among spa connoisseurs'.

An experience blogged by Rice, beans and pistachio:

'We got undressed and opened the door to the bath and steam rolled out the door. The room was lit only by a blue light. The water was gushing from 2 separate spouts out of the wall into the bath. It was absolutely a dream. We got into the bath and the water was so warm I was relaxed almost instantly. I could feel the minerals in the warm water soothing my aches away'.

More photo's here.

On a minor note, the warm water also helps a local trout farm (source).

Thermalgreece.com is a commercial company which does the following:

'Thermal Greece has been established to offer health and healing holidays in selected natural hot springs and spas across Greece'. 

Amongst it's offerings are the baths / hamams of Agistro:

'Agistron natural thermal spring is situated in a beautiful mountainous area in Macedonia, north Greece. In antiquity, the greater area of the spring has been famous for iron and gold mining. The spring first became known during the age of Alexander the Great, (356 – 323 BC). Since then it has remained in use, with an interruption only during the second Wold War, when the village was almost completely destroyed. Until today, the steam (Hamam) building and the tower of the village, constructed in Agistron during the Byzantine times in 950 AC, remain intact and serve as cultural land mark monuments of the spring’s region.
...
Agistron hot spring ιs considered to be among the best in Europe and the underground water at 40.5°C is ideal for many disorders. Among them, rheumatism, arthritis, displaced spinal disc and muscle pain. The water contains sodium, calcium, potassium, sulphuric acid, hydrogen carbonate and iron. It is characterized as oligometallic and hypotonic therapeutic thermal water'. 

Then follows a chemical analysis of the waters. Costs are nearly 700€ for a 7-day stay, hotel full board.

What else is hot?

Besides visits over the border to Bulgaria and hikes up the surrounding mountains, the main attraction in this area is the Kerkini Lake which shimmers in the heat and reflects the surrounding mountains. Kerkini Lake is home to huge amounts of breeding bird life, in particular the Dalmatian pelican.  

Access to the bird colonies goes via the village of Kerkini in the northeast corner of the lake. For 7,50€ one is taken by boat across the lake to a flooded plain with trees brimming with nests. And a number of platforms for the top cats of the reservation, the pelicans.

 Nesting Dalmatian pelicans

Located between Kerkini and Agistro is another hot spring; that of Sidorokastro:

'The Sidirokastro Hot Springs have a temperature of 45°. They are just outside the town to the north, near the Strymonas River railway-bridge, on a hill that offers panoramic views of the area. Thousands of people go to these hot springs every year, both for recreation or therapy, especially since the recent renovation of the area's tourist facilities' (Wikipedia). 

The hotel (& spa) website adds:

'Spa resort has been well-known since the ages of Byzantium. Elvia Chelebi, a famous traveler witnessed them been used in 1667, when Turkey ruled the area and 19 years later they are honored by Nicolas Shoinas (in its work "Traveling Notes") for their sanitarian benefits'.

Still within Serres region, but much closer to Thessaloniki are the hot springs of Therma, Nigrita. What's more?

'The Nigrita Thermal Springs are known throughout Greece for their mineral water, which is bottled locally and sold nationally, and the springs themselves are believed to ease gastrointestinal ailments'.

There is also a mention of Megali Vrisi hot springs in the neighbouring region Kiklis (to the north of Kiklis town, which itself is just north of Thessaloniki). 

Nearby this hot spring is a different kind of hydro-therapy, Lake Pikrolimini, just south of Kiklis  town: 

'It is estimated that treatment based on sulfur mud that comes from the neighboring Pikrolimni. It is also said that Alexander the Great brought his army here in the course of baths in the East.
This is the only salt lake in Greece. The peculiarity of this lake is that both the clay and the water, contain valuable minerals and trace minerals with significant therapeutic and rejuvenating properties due to sulphates and nitrates of clay found in the lake bottom'. (source)

If only I had known ...