Aha?

It seems a bit of folly. On one of the hottest days of the year and we are seeking to visit one of Germany's and Europe's hottest hot springs (source). Hmmm ....

History

Besides having a uni, Aachen is is Germany's westernmost town. But it is more famous for it's thermal baths.

Sometimes known as Bad Aachen, the history of it's thermal springs goes back a long way, a very long way.

As is customary in Europe, there's little knowledge of pre-Roman use of hot springs and this applies to Aachen (French prefer Aix-La-Chapelle) as well. Possibly the lack of this can be explained by the fact that the pre-Roman civilisations were less intent on building elaborate facilities for the simple pleasure of being able to soak, nor was writing, recording and/or archiving one of their best skills.

So as elsewhere in Europe, it were the Romans that put the first permanent mark on Aachen. Not many people might notice, but the city's name of Aachen seems to have been derived from Roman:

'After all, Aachen means water, derived from the Roman name of "Aquae granni", which in turn stems from the Celtic god of healing Grannus [God of light and healing]'. 

This sourced from Aachen's city's website with extensive info on it's origin and history. 
There is though an alternative explanation for the city name, which dates the naming from before the Romans:

'Der Name "Aachen" leitet sich übrigens von "ahha", dem germanischen Wort für "Wasser" ab'.

Do I need to translate? Aachen = was Ahha = was Germanic for water.

Anyway, the entwined history of the city of Aachen and it's thermal baths continues. Again from the above mentioned city website:

'The spread of Christianity quickly and permanently put a stop to the physical and pleasure-orientated bathing culture of antique provenance.

Everywhere since the early Middle Ages, the benefits of water and sociability in water became discredited: after all, the concerns of the Church Fathers regarding the salvation in the next life and the corresponding spiritual purification in this life were what counted.

In such a climate of outright hostility towards the body, the pleasures of bathing no longer had a right to exist. Only in Aachen - thanks to Charlemagne - did bathing culture experience a short-lived new high point in the early Middle Ages.

Gladly told time and time again - but only borrowed from the realm of legends - is the story of Charlemagne's trusty horse, that pawed the ground with its hoof to expose the first hot spring and thus triggered the foundation of a residence at the same location. Historically correct, however, is that prior to this, Pippin, Charlemagne's father, was building an estate close to the former Roman cathedral thermal spring to which he would retreat on important special occasions. Like him, Charlemagne, whose swimming abilities were praised far and wide, appreciated relaxing at the hot springs. These were, according to the reports of his biographer Einhard, the reason for Charlemagne choosing Aachen as the permanent residence and political centre of this empire: "This is why he gladly settled in Aachen, and set up house which already had a warm bath in it."

For Charlemagne, a spacious thermal bathing facility was built on the ruins of the old Roman baths and in the immediate vicinity of his palace. He frequented the baths every day, and wherever possible was accompanied by family members, officials or guests.

In this regard at least, Charlemagne was committed to the spirit of antiquity, since, for him, too, besides the therapeutic function, bathing also had an important communicative and social role to play. Following his death, the bathing culture in Aachen diminished noticeably - and it has taken a few centuries for this city - that attracts bathing guests from all over the world - to experience for the third time an era of unspoilt bathing pleasures'.

Karl's (Charlemagne) significance in European history was high as his empire was one of the first to emerge from the post-Roman period, in the 8th / 9th century. Stretching from north Italy, it encompaased modern day France, Germany and the low countries.

 Carl's palace with his own thermen, see top right of the artists impression (source).

After the fall of the Charlemagne it is supposed that bathing in Aachen returned back to that of ruins, however in the latter part of the 16th century, thermal bathing gained in popularity with the European bourgeoisie and Aachen established itself as a main contender in the upcoming Euro bathing industry. It also ensured that Aachen returned to it's former glory with the establishment of parks, bathing facilities and hotels. 

However, it's popularity lead to a increasing numbers of visitors leading the snobs of Europe to seek more exclusive retreats, such as in Baden-Baden. Or possibly the richer soakers moved because the sulphuric nature of Aachen's thermal baths became attractive as a cure for syphilis (Wikipedia). Which somehow meant that many a sex-worker washed up here ...

 

Aachen Kaiserbad 1682 (Wikipedia).

Here's a link to a pdf presentation concerning the history of Aachen's thermal springs. The German wikipedia entry is the most extensive site of online information.

Sedation

Luckily, modern day soaking in Aachen has evolved and is now preferably a sedate affair; it seems that this is what Germans prefer and probably most of Europe's elder clientèle of hot springs. That might be it: in Europe one soaks sedately ...

Harking back to the old days, just outside Aachen's historic and busy center, local authorities have maintained a large park over some rolling hillocks. It's home to amongst others the local casino and exhibition hall. Hid away on the outskirts of the park and accessed from a quite city street are one of the few geothermal bathing facilities remaining in Aachen.
Aachen and environs actually host more than 20 separate hot springs, though many of these have been closed (source)! The city of Aachen (and neighbouring Burtscheid) still have 3 Kürkliniken (medical centers) which use thermal waters (source) as a medicine, but other than that there is just one hot spring in operation.

The aforementioned Charlemagne or Karl in German, was also known as Carolus in Latin. Thus it's the choice for the namesake of this only operating thermal bath in Aachen (source): Carolus Thermen.

The waters of Carolus Thermen are sourced from the Rosenquelle (45ºC). This hot spring is located beneath a store in the center of Aachen. Water is piped from the spring to the Carolus Thermen. Other thermal sources located in the city's center are likewise piped away. For instance for bottling purposes (Kaiserquelle / Kaiserbrunnen) of for the use in cosmetics.

Claiming pure thermal spring water as it's provenance, Carolus Thermen are a very modern affair. Completed in 2001, parking is ensured in it's adjacent parking garage. The entry hall is spacious and very, very large.

This way please

The check-in procedure is highly efficient. All is explained to us in 1 second, after which we handed two coins. Ummm? There doesn't seem to be room for questions so we quickly trot on to the next station.

We exchange notes: 

'So you didn't catch anything either? Nooo'. 

We watch as others put coin in locker and get a bracelet in return. Aha. We do likewise and head off for the changing rooms. Everything is highly efficient and before you know it we are to enter the thermen themselves. Note the mandatory shower sign, a good idea, as we have worked up a good sweat cycling here.

The inside lay-out is very clear. In the center is a large pool (34ºC), with a number of massage showers and overflowing jacuzzi's (36ºC) above. To your right comes an entrance to the outdoor pool (32ºC) with fountains and waterfall, again with a number of massage showers, next to that a chill bassin (18ºC) and a hot bassin (38ºC). Opposite is another outdoor pool and exit to sun decks, one with sand. To your left upstairs are restaurants. Below these are the staff offices.

It's very delightful, taking in all the different baths. Especially the high pressure massage showers are very nice. At the moment of arrival an aquarobics programme is taking place so we research the smaller pools. After the finish of that programme we swim a couple of rounds in the larger pool.

Mandated, ja!
Finally we go up the stairs to the wellness center on the third floor. What usually requires a double payment of the normal Thermen entrance fee of €11 (€12 on weekends; this fee is valid for 2,5 hours, add €1,5 thereafter for each extra hour with a max of €15), now comes for free as it also has an extensive outdoor component which is currently being renovated. 

Because the Carolus Thermen are a municipal business they can not charge a fee for sauna entrance only: this would be an unfair practice for private sauna businesses. A pity ...

Entrance is through a small locker room as here nakedness is mandatory, whereas the pools before it was forbidden. Seems a bit odd?

Sauna = sweating which is best done naked (better sweating / no build up of sweat in swimming clothes), but what about the other baths in the wellness area? Here also the hygiene reasoning? But why then isn't the full thermal complex nude mandatory? 

Especially with current fashions which seem to dictate for men boardies which are worn with underwear underneath (preferably with name of underpants sticking out)! Just the other week one of Hollands largest indoor pool complexes had to close and the water changed as they couldn't maintain healthy levels of swim water quality (source)! Makes you think that naturally bathing might have more merit ... But anyway, local customs, local fore

Behind the entrance to the wellness area stretch two floors of relaxation. The third floor is dedicated to the Baltic sauna: there are a number of sauna's (3), shower rooms, etc.

Down a floor is a huge Oriental bathing area, which is very, very nice. Much has been done to replicate the experience of a true Turkish bath and it certainly works. A great hamam, warm Roman baths and the centerpiece: a peaceful pool (with thermal water, 34ºC) under an arched roof.

And somewhere there are massage facilities and a small area set aside for women.

Hours and hours can be spent in the sauna / Turkish bath area. And that's not even counting the outside area which was out of bounds during our stay. Apparently out there are another 4 sauna's and a small outdoor pool.

Despite the zero entrance fee (which prohibits those not wanting to fork out more cash), there were considerably less visitors than in the thermen; somewhat surprisingly as the experience was certainly great / better!

But possibly the new global prudishness has had it's effects. In the thermal pool, there was a fair representation of locals and tourists: young, old, families, singles, Germans, Dutch but also those of ethnic descent. 
The dress code of the wellness center unfortunately probably precludes the latter, while with the odd exception, families also seem to opt out. Certainly their loss?

After having been sweating, soaking and bathing for hours we are getting pesky; time to head for inner city Aachen for a cafeine buzz and something to fill up on.

We needn't have. Reviews of Carolus Thermen amplty highlight the catering: good and cheap. Next time then?

Share to compare

Well despite the lack of anything that would remind us of it's natural origins, the facilities of course afford many a visitor an entertaining experience / interaction with hot springs. For instance the German World Cup squad in 2010 mentioned staying here as delightful.

But what do others really think?
Let's look at that leader of traveller feedback opinion, tripadvisor. Tripadvisor has a litany of reviews summarized in the 4.5 stars given. Most use superlatives to describe the place. Interesting are the mostly English comments on the naked experience:

'For those who are apprehensive or fearful about going "textile-free", don't worry. The sauna is a place of rest and relaxation and people here are just minding their own business and relaxing. Within minutes, you'll totally forget your inhibitions and feel comfortable in your own skin. Soon, you'll lose track of time, realize you've spent more time relaxing than you imagined and you'll even find it difficult to leave! 
...
This is not a cheap experience, but it's great value for money. Don't bother with the thermal pools, they're pretty average, and head straight for the sauna. Any self-consciousness about mixed naked bathing disappears in a few minutes.
...
And then there's the upstairs part. For most UKers it's an eye opener, but when in Germany... Removing swimsuits was very liberating.... Steam rooms and outdoor heated pools were simply amazing. So relaxing to wander round with nothing on.
Only disappointment is that after this no UK spa will be able to compete. Feels wrong to wear a swimsuit in a sauna now!
...
Bathing costumes here are not allowed; most people walk around with towels but the saunas and pools themselves are required nude areas. Sexes are mixed and the Germans are very casual and relaxed about nudity here. Accepted etiquette precludes inappropriate behavior, and I found it very natural and comfortable - and wonderfully relaxing in the saunas and pools. 
...
The Germans and social nudity. Truly refreshing. Truly breathtaking. It’s second nature and it’s relaxed. If the whole world had the philosophy towards the naked body as do the Germans, well, then the world would be a safer and a more rewarding place.
Many note the friendly staff, which I must admit, they are everywhere, smiling and maintaing the cleanliness of the facilities'.

And when the reviews switch to those by non-English speakers, there's hardly a sentence on the wellness customs, how come?

Happy (Euro) face? source

So if compared to those facilities in South Europe why the mass appeal of thermal facilities here? 
Much has been done to appeal to all age groups while setting up the facilities, it's not for the sedate only. Modernized and clean it uses modern PR to reach out. For instance Facebook (note 12,000+ likes!). Another initiative: by donating blood at a local hospital, you can gain free entrance to the Carolus Thermen (but not valid for the same day!).
So there are ways to attract visitors is to keep up with in-crowd!

That said I felt the distinct lack of naturalness unearthing. There's little that discerns this from any other wellness / swimming pool experience in Germany. The water's said to be sulfated; well I didn't smell anything.
Yes, it's all very hygienic, clean, etc. Staff nice, not too expensive and yes, a great experience, but natural? Can I say no?

I'll leave you with a youtube intro vid:

Postscript (2022): based solely on the wellness section, the experience could be rated with a seven. Positive, the big bath, the space. Not so good, the catering, small outside section.

Suffered modifications

 

Die Hard

Traditions die hard. And Europe's love to it's thermal bathing traditions are no exception. 

In spite of the world moving on, many of Europe''s hot springs remain stuck into enclaves of pre-WW II practices of being enticed by the waters. Appealing to citizens with time on their hands, a hot spring resort in Europe seeks to entertain soakers by offering a plethora of water based activities overlaid with medical thoughtfulness. And the thermal establishment will determine what you will get. And did you know that the waters are natural? Because they are, even though we have built, rebuilt and redecorated everything such, that naturalness is not something we connect with thermal bathing ...

Steeped in traditions such as Calvinism and Catholicism, actual enjoying while soaking in Europe seems to be an afterthought. Appealing to the new generations, which are a slightly more hedonistic and in for new experiences, is totally dismissed.

Caldes de Montbui, located just outside of Catalunya's capital of Barcelona, (north-east Spain) seems to be world's away from that magnet of everything hip, happy and hopeful, Barcelona itself. Spend a day in Barcelona you will be touched by its' diversity, its' youth, its' connection to the past and its' positivism. 

Built with cement, Barcelona combines a vibrancy which is evoked in it's football, architecture, avant-garde art, sports and cuisine to name a few. 

It manages to combine a non-descript natural setting into a home for the lotus eater. Just take a look at its' beaches, late afternoon, where everyone (with exception of the traditional tourist, still caught up in a spiritual fervour to stand in line at one of the paid attractions) can be them-self: an individual.

But Caldes is none of this.

Inside

Located only 30 km's from La Rambla, there's precious little evidence to link it to that metropole. Even the bus ride out to Caldes takes near to an hour, adding to the air of distance. 

The town of Caldes de Montbui is essentially a small village which caters to many professionals of the outer Barcelona suburbs. 
With the exception that it is steeped in history and is still seeking to run this same gambit. 
Gone are the Romans which set up store in Caldes to take advantage of the thermal waters. 
But where will the new tourists come from? The search continues ...

The use of the thermae of Caldes de Montbui dates back long ago, even to before the Romans arrived. But at least the Romans put in an effort to construct something lasting. Even today these can still be evidenced (they are the best kept Roman thermae on the Iberian peninsula), but a fence around the ruins precludes further exploration. 
Behind the fence one can witness a large (but empty) pool, an arched roof and off to the side further rooms (?). This was the hottest part of the thermae (caldarium) and excavation has revealed that what remains was just a small part of what once existed.

 

The main square of Caldes de Montbui: straight ahead are the renovated ruins of the Roman thermae, adjacent to the left is the museum. Right the Boquetas spa hotel.

Inspired by their remains (and supposedly some hefty sums of subsidy), a small museum has popped up next door, aptly named Museu Thermalia. Inside are located the local tourism office, a number of local products for sale as well as a two story exhibition on Caldes' thermal past and a floor devoted to Picasso insider and sculptor Manolo Hugué who lived in Caldes de Montbui for 17 years, where he also died.

The exhibition on the thermal past includes a number of scenes set to re-create of what is believed to be the living past. Below are a number of plates from the exhibit which give a better overview of what the place would have looked like and show the womens (?) sudatorium (vaulted steam room, top left; did they have separate bathing facilities?), individual baths (top right), the gymnasium (bottom left) and the apodyterium (entrance) supposedly in use (bottom right).

Contemplating afterwards, to me, the museum is quite interesting. 
But I've seen this before in Spain at the Termas de Bande: museum and all, but no other visitors besides myself? Is it just a chicken and egg situation? Or not?

Gossip

Directly opposite the museum and the adjacent Roman thermae is the Font del Lleó (Lion fountain). This spring gushes forth very hot (74º C) water. Built in 1581 and renovated later in 1822 (source) the current set up dates from 1927.

 

The lion gushing forth.

Behind the museum lie some medieval walls as well as some left-overs of what look like watermills, dating back to the 1500's. The subsidy programme has afforded to construct a walkway along the banks of the small Boquetas stream, culminating in a washing place, otherwise known in Catalan as safareig (which literally translates into English as laundry room).

Safareig or their equivalent in Spanish, lavadero publico (see above), are phonomena found in and around the Pyrénées and the rest of Spain. Water streams are diverted into tubs with big washing stones adjacent. 
Though a safareig could also refer to larger water reservoirs.

In Caldes, the Safareig de la Portalera, one of the two remaining reservoirs (the other the Safareig de la Canaleta), is a long pool, approximately 10 meters by 2,5 meters wide. All around this is a ledge made to assist in the washing process. 
Typical of the nineteenth century (source), the safareig was restored just a few years ago (source) a feature which got highlighted on national television. Sourced from the aforementioned Font del Lleó, it means that the temperature of this bassin is still quite high. This source also mentions that the waters are refreshed daily.

Somewhere in the past this safareig was heavily used, but not anymore. 

A different kind of use can by found from the Catalan Way blog. It describes a visit to Caldes de Montbui. During the visit there is also an art performance in the Safareig de la Portalera itself. On it's past use, the blogger mentions the following:

'This performance took place in a Safareig - a communal wash house that uses the natural hot water and has a large central stone tub where women used to come to wash their laundry and talk. There is a Catala phrase 'fer un safareig' which means to gossip - a word that in English has some negative associations but which I think also describes a vital and caring way of passing on news about your friends aquaintances and family. Womens communications - so many words that are pejorative - nagging, bitching, gossiping....
This town now also has a large community of people from Mali and some of these women have begun to use the Safareig as a meeting place and for washing clothes again. There are three Safareigs in Caldes and one of them seemed derelict and sad although as part of the project it was being used as a grafitti house where you could write your desires on the walls.
At the end of the performances people were invited to have a hot bath in the tub - I dangled in my feet and legs but wasn't tempted to plunge in when it started to fill up with hot steamy bodies'. 

Safareig de la Portalera

Well, there were no steamy bodies other than the steamy body of water. An elder man did emerge from a garden nearby to collect a can full of water. But no evidence of anyone doing their washing here. The pristine surroundings would suggest that a plunge is not entirely a common practice.

There are quite a few video's available on the subject of Caldes' safareigs, such as this one: 

Caldes de Montbui, vila termal from Nomarak on Vimeo.

Time to retire

We wandered back to the village square past the Termes Victoria. It's website adds to our growing knowledge on Caldes:

'Water comes out at a temperature of 74ºC, the highest in the Iberian Peninsula, but the most important thing in the mineral medicinal water is the minerals it has. In our case, the waters contain sodium chloride and fluorides. These kinds of waters are best for stress therapies, fracture recovery, rheumatism, degenerative osteoarthritis or arthritis'.

On history of the Termes:

'The origins of the Hotel Termes Victòria go back to the 17th century, although no one knows exactly when it was built. Initially, it took up several medieval buildings and even part of the old walls. Throughout the years it has suffered many different architectural modifications, but it preserves original elements such as the vault of the baths, from the 18th century.
Despite its modern facilities, the hotel is still run familiarly, since the 1850s, by the family Anglí-Palaudarias.
The Hotel Termes Victoria has maintained a selected and loyal group of guests. From King Alfonso XII to painters and writers in search of peace and tranquility for their inspiration. It has also been an ideal place for the meeting of teams such as Ladislao Kubala’s FC Barcelona. He loved thermal treatments'.

What we don't gleam from the above is that in it's heyday there were no less than 8 facilities available for thermal treatments in Caldes de Montbui. Now however, this has dwindled to three: the above and two other places both part of the Boquetas group. Which in fact comprises just those two.

The Vila de Caldes hotel seems quite a flash place and the prime part of the Broquetas group. Located away from the old town square visitors, the hotel web site fails to provide much other info, than that a room price and some vague references to thermal treatments. Hotel booking site booking.com gives this it a  7.1, in comparison to Victoria's 7.7. Both on the negatives as well as on the positives there is little between the two. Do note Victoria's guest Vincent's negative:

'Guests very old felt more like a retirement home than hotel'

I doubt the other thermal venues would be any better. Bathing in thermal waters is apparently something of earlier generations ... Europe-wide!?

Tripadvisor also puts Victoria ahead of the other two, 4 stars. But do note this visitor, msr38 comments:

'Another negative is that the average age does not fall below 80 years, which makes the services offered by the hotel are only aimed at this sector of the population'.

Tripadvisor does note a huge difference, giving Vila de Caldes just two stars ....

Geriatric

If only we had known the following on forehand, we might have never tried out the Broquetas hotel spa. Tripadvisor hands out 3 stars, there being a mention or two of geriatric clientèle / staff .... Booking.com comes to an mediocre average of 7.3.

View of the town square looking onto the Boquetas spa hotel.

Balneoario de Boquetas looks a little less smart than the Victoria and we saunter inside. The receptionist is busy on the phone and decides then and there that we must be soakers and points out that we must go around the back of her office.

Behind her office is another desk, that of the bathing receptionist, who also manages some English. She explains that in spite of some of the bathing possibilities on offer being over the 20€, the going tariff today is two treatments for 16€.  Even that is quite steep, but who knows there are also personal touches making it well worth the hand-out. Our number one choice is of course a thermal bath (they have no pool?), number two is less clear. After a lot of consideration by us and the bathing hostess, we all settle on the high pressure water massage.

Everything is added up (use of bath robes are free, but we need to pay for slippers) we are then directed to return to hotel receptionist to settle the outstanding amount. She is still busy on the phone and after I hand her a note of 50€ I neatly receive 50€ in return but in notes of smaller denomination. Bathing receptionist lady sighs and settles the payment herself.

The formalities out of the way, we are directed to two small changing facilities, down a hall, down another hall and there we are. The main hall is apparently Catalan modernist and looks very nice, but also dated. But who knows when something is dated and when it returns in vogue?

Anyway, after changing in the barely enough space for 1 person changing rooms, we are directed to a door on the side of the long hall. Behind the door lies an L-shaped pool, approximately 4 by 4m. We are allowed the privacy of our private bath, bathing lady turns on a switch which will mean that we will have 20 minutes of jets and fountains in which to soak. Instructions are to report back in the hall afterwards.

Not quite the Roman sized bathing pool: what you see is what you get.

After the 20 minute soak we report back in the hallway and we are afforded entrance to the water massage room. The 5m long room has a chair on the door side, a contraption resembling a fixed fire hose and on the far side are two aluminium brackets, a meter high. An explanation follows: the volunteer is put up against the wall and bathing lady fires water thereby simulating a massage experience. At set intervals one is told to turn, so in the end one is blasted from all sides.

'Naked or not?'

Up to ourselves, which is both a relief and a concern. The answer lies in the lead photo ...

Anyway in the end it is quite relaxing having a high pressure massage, something different at least. I note that this kind of therapy is quite common in some less up to date centers of wellness. Think Eastern Europe.

Modernist
The hotel web site adds some info on the past:

'The activity of Broquetas Spa began in 1729 when its founder, Salvador Broquetas, built the first bath house where the current spa is located, giving it his name.
The first still-standing reconstruction is from 1770, when the initial spa was enlarged after acquiring the Can Vincenç hostel. 

...

Initially the spa was a building with three floors that towards the end of two centuries of existence it had once again been enlarged in order to include even a private park for our clients.
The predominantly modernist style harmoniously melds with the more heterogeneous areas that resulted in successive transformations'. 

The web site Balnecat adds:

'In 1729 Salvador Broquetas built the first bathhouse in the current spa called Spa Broquetas since then. The modernist building has some areas of great architectural value and is part of the overall architectural monument protected in Caldes de Montbui.

Inside, there are many elements that betray the influence modernist (scales, the Hall gallery bathrooms and balconies), with a spectacular mix of stained glass, lamps and marquetry. Sculptures, tapestries, paintings, and especially one of the largest collections of owls known, the most generous of Spain, are other interesting elements that can be found'

In total the fun has lasted an hour, it's time to find out where the changing rooms were, dress, admire the owls (?) and get ourselves a lunch.

And lunches in Caldes de Montbui turn out to be surprisingly easy and tasty. Back to return to Barcelona!

Epilogue

All-in-all, Caldes is a nice break and quite interesting in itself. Don't however come here with a thermal treat in mind. You might just be disappointed. It seems that the bathing facilities are yet to catch up with the 21st century, both in ambiance and in service. 

Having bathed in hot springs on 3 continents, I still fail to see why thermal baths are required to be small cubby holes and I have some questions on the pureness of the water, it certainly wasn't filled why we were waiting ... 

Probably for too long, thermal retreats have been able to make ends meet by focussing on an ageing clientèle. Not so any more. From many of the remarks in the reviews I noticed that the reviewers were young and were out of sync with what was on offer.

Getting to Caldes de Montbui is not too much of a trouble, the Sagalés bus company drives there half hourly from Barcelona's Fabra i Puig bus station, the journey taking up to an hour.

On youtube I found an overview of the sources and safareigs:

 

Inside the thermae