Sunday, September 21, 2014

Just chill


To take oil
A two page feature in last weekends local newspaper of PZC (13 Sep.) focussed on the art of muddying up in Azerbaijan. Great, lets link up with the article.

But for some reason yet to be discovered, there's no link to the article itself at all. Wherever way I look it up, there's nothing to be found. Strange that in this day and age, articles don't end up on the net! 
Sigh, will have to do myself then.

Anyway, it's very much a photographic account of the former nomenclature in old-style wellness pursuit. Azerbaijan apparently is a haven for muck seekers. The article discusses the virtues of the oils of Naftalan and the salts of Düzlü Gol.  
Generally, after lathering up, a rinse is required and a float in the lake. Of course this is the prelude to an impromptu picnic, one where wodka flows freely. See here how one enjoys the mother earth ...

Concerning Naftalan, we learn is that there are apparently different kinds of oily mud, from red to black, each with their own characteristics: the redder is for psychological health, the black for physiological health. 

One link I did find was to a Russian language site on Naftalan which describes how beneficial an oil bath may well be. A better site, especially concerning the history of Naftalan, can be found here. Then there is this web site in English which starts off as so:
'The word Naftalan, can be traced to the Greek word "naphtha", meaning pertaining to oil, and the Azerbaijani suffix "-alan", which is of the verb "to take" (and literally meaning "oil buyer"). It is the center of a unique petroleum industry, with a grade of oil referred to as "Naftalan". While Naftalan crude oil is too heavy for normal export uses (unlike Azerbaijan's plentiful Caspian Sea oil), it contains about 50 percent naphthalene, a hydrocarbon that is the active ingredient in coal tar soaps, which are used to treat psoriasis. As such, it is only used for medicinal purposes. People using the oil generally sit in a bath and are covered in oil up to their necks'.
Though unique to Naftalan the last website also refers to the curios case of the Croatian cousin. The cousin notes:
'There are only two known deposits of naphthenic oil in the world: in Azerbaijan and in Ivanić-Grad'.
Back to the article. As the oil mud baths reek for days afterwards, Düzlü Gol, a different salt lake with less mud, has it's own band of followers. It's rated locally as just as good as the Dead Sea and seems to be solely popular for swimming: even poor swimmers won't drown. However, there's  precious little to be found on the internet, other than that it is close to Baku (source).

i miss this magic. #hotsprings #portugal #family

Fancy
Arguably the center of Euro thermalism is Hungary, with the capital Budapest also presenting itself as the heart of the nations love of soaking.
Kathy Fritts has a nice write up (July 23). It starts off very promising:
'If you leave Budapest without soaking in a Hungarian thermal bath, you have cheated yourself of a memorable experience'. 
In the article she highlights her diverse experiences in Budapest but elsewhere in the world. 

#italy # hotsprings
but where? Somewhere in Toscana? Source
(It was Petiolo)

A different kind of experience is a description of a sophisticated up-scale soaking experience by Alessandra Catania (Aug. 16): 
'After having a nice welcome kit in my room, I was ready to enjoy my afternoon: first a water hot/cold massage at the Kneipp center, then a Roman Bath with hot and cold emotional showers (with lights that change colors every 10 seconds) and finally a scrub massage with Tauleto, a product line done with a red wine produced near Bologna.
Relax is my word for today, taking my time so slow and living my Dolce Vita, enjoying the nice talks with other customers.
The principle thermal swimming pool are always at the same temperature, 37°C, but even if it is hot outside, you enjoy the embrace of the water: first of all on your skin and second, much more deeply, on your muscles. A lot of athletes or sport lovers come here for their “remise en forme”.
In the Spa center, other than what I experimented, there are also some other things interesting for the braves: the Finnish sauna is a real one, with hot stones you can put water on and, outside, a real icefall and also a wooden bucket with frozen water. A real shock, believe me!
At the end, you can end your treatment in the second swimming pool, with a different thermal water. It’s not so salty as the first one but has different properties.
Terme of La Fratta became in these last years a true and common habit for a lot of people. On Saturday and Sunday hot springs are opened till late in the night and you can appreciate the evening, having your dinner in the fancy restaurant at the first floor and then relaxing in the waters'.
A more down to earth experience. This blog entry by Bz's Travels and Rambles (Aug. 26) notes Sicily, but where are we? It's between Thailand and Rome entries and the tale indeed rambles on and on. But I do notice this part: 
'Next, nervous night we set out to hot spring where I’m told naked is the way to go. Main spot is crowded by stupid loud Italians partying, generator and music in this quiet ancient place. Highly valued by Romans for the hot water. We continue along path, find private area where 2 girls and 3 guys are hanging totally naked.  They invite us over for weekend dinner, and drink wine until they leave'. 
But still none the wiser where this may be ...

Condé Nast (Jul. 23) has a photographic overview of what they believe Italy's Amzaing Hidden Hot Springs.

Sascha's soaks
Strotzbüsch - Southern Eifel, Germany
This is not a hot spring but only a warm spring of 19°C. However, the water contains a lot of minerals and tastes salty. Locals say, that drinking the water guarantees a long life. The quality of the water should be better than the thermal water in Bad Bertrich, which is 10 km away (with commercial pools and treatments). There is a little pool nearby the river but it seems dirty and not suitable for soaking.

This situation required for a solution, because the surrounding is really lovely: in the middle of the nature with no cars and streets around, that’s hard to find in Germany. You can find the solution of the problem on picture 8: a self constructed mobile pool that heats the water up to one’s personal favorite temperature (I brought it up to 45°C on a cold spring day and it was heaven!). The water is heated by a “Chofu” heater with gas. I found this strange thing in the internet, unfortunately, the Japanese firm does not produce it anymore. But there are some distributors in the US who still sell them (there is also a version that heats with wood). This was quite a lot of work and preparation for a soak, but absolutely worth it. Although the hot tub is not beautiful, it conserves very well the temperature. (It also works with sea water, this will be the next project).
No evaluation, because no real hot spring. External link from Strotzbüsch Ortsgemeinde.

Loss
Just chill by the falls #pozar #thermalspring #greece #waterfall #relax


A short article plus a video with the mayor of Lamia (central Greece) revealing that the rustic and free-to-use hot springs of Kallidromos are on the line to be developed, alas. The reason for the change is that the hot spring has now fallen into the hands of the municipality ...

It's a pity that the few remaining wilder soaks in Europe continue to be lined up for development. In previous updates we reported on how developed hot springs in Greece (and southern Europe) were in dire straits as they failed to adapt their businesses from medical tourism to wellness inspired. Therefore handing out carte blanche to private business need not be the panacea for presumed economic ills. Rather cherishing what one has and possibly regulating use is what is required. Private business may well generate some jobs, but usually they will cut out local use and focus on the wealthy.


Flock not
What is happening in the Icelandic affairs section?


A cheeky soak at Hrunulaug. Source

Iceland translates it's geothermal attractivity into inbound tourist numbers. From Iceland Review (July 31):
'Landowners at the natural pool Hrunalaug in South Iceland are overwhelmed by the large number of tourists that flock to the pool every day. The visitors’ conduct is often poor and the land has started to show signs of irreparable damage, visir.is reports.
Eiríkur Steindórsson, the owner of the land, says that tourism had increased steadily since the pool ended up in a travel guide about five years ago. Now there is hardly any guidebook on Iceland in circulation that does not mention the pool.
This year the pool has been more popular than ever with travelers, and about 200 of them visit it every day'.
It continues on how tourists are literally taking everything apart while leaving the owner's family to pick up the pieces. The solution would be to charge the tourists or close the area, neither a preferred option. But whatever would be a solution, it's just too late to pray for common sense.
The article continues on how walking tracks to the geothermal Reykjaladur valley are been worn out as well as tourists trashing the place.
Today I went hiking and then sat in a naturally hot river... emojiemoji #standard #summer #iceland #ilovethiscountry
Another tourist trashing Reykjaladur? Hope not. Source

More soaking issues from Iceland Review (August 20):
'Q: I have a question about natural hot springs in Iceland (we’re planning a hiking tour). A friend went to Iceland several years ago and reported that bathing in natural hot springs is no longer recommended due to cases of swimmer’s itch (bird/snail parasites in fresh water).
...
A: The protists that cause swimmer’s itch were first discovered in a natural hot spring in Iceland in Landmannalaugar about a decade ago. At that time, the Directorate of Health issued a warning, advising people to avoid natural hot springs, particularly late in the year, from August to December or so, as the warm water attracts birds, the hosts of the adult protists, during those months before they migrate south for the winter.
Many people still enjoy bathing in hot springs, and there is no regulation banning people from swimming there. People are advised against touching vegetation in the water as water snails, the hosts of the immature protists that cause the actual rash, hide there. It is not recommended that those who generally have severe allergic reactions to insect bites, such as mosquito bites, bathe in the springs'.
Rosy
Hamam business. 
  • Is this European? Culturally one would be inclined to think so. 
  • Geographically, it's on the edge. 
  • Soakingwise? Well, soaking is also about culture, about de-stressing, about heat.
Personally I've visited a few hammams in Morocco, wasn't really flabbergasted by the experience back then, but it certainly was something different. The ever popular Travelettes blog (Sep. 19) has an entry on their experience with Moroccan hammams:
'“If I’m going to do it, then I want to do it right: the traditional way,” I told him – imagining golden water taps, oriental background music and massage oils smelling of roses. I had no idea that something totally different would be waiting for me…'.
What follows is a  lengthy expose of all kinds of unexpected experiences but ends with some smooth skin: an experience worth it.
En las Termas de Yesa. Año 2005. Tiene que estar el nivel del pantano muy bajo en verano para que aparezcan las Termas #bestplace #mountains #mountain_life #mendiak #montaña #365imagenes #snapseed #pirineos #pyrenees #natural_beauty #nature #naturaleza #navarra #aragon #traveller #travel #love_nature #termas #tiermas #spa
The parting shot from Spain. Source

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

What's brewing ...

This website has the distinction of focusing on what remains of the natural state concerning hot springs of Europe. Most news is bad news, i.e. another source falling victim to development. Thus the re-existence of a lost hot spring is some good news.

On the Canary island of La Palma lies the town of Fuencaliente. Despite this being a direct translation of hot springs there were none.
Lapalma-island.com:
'Fuencaliente means “Hot Spring”. The southernmost municipality takes its name from the hot spring which seeped out into pools on Echentive beach. It was famous for curing all kinds of sickness, including leprosy and syphilis, so Fuencaliente used to attract sick people from all over Europe and even South America. That’s the setting for “A Star in the Water”, one of the stories in “The Seer’s Stone“.
And then Volcan San Antonio erupted in 1677 and buried it under 40 metres of lava'.
Apparently it was rediscovered in 2005 deep down in the earth and a tunnel was built to assist in finding the water. 
But only just recently have the public been allowed to access the tunnel (source) which gives access to a few small, what best could be described as, puddles. Wonder what the future plans are .... 

I'll be heading to south Spain later this year. It's always fun to seek out what lies ahead. Who has heard of Cuevas Hammam Abuelo Jose near Guadix, Andalucia? Well, it might not be totally what I'm looking for, but north of the Sierra Nevada are a number of wildish hot springs to visit. Coming to you soon?

I'll have to look this place up:

'Termas de santa fe. Granada, Andalucia. #dragon #festival #granada #santafe #termas #hot #water #onelove #burnbabilon #chillout #relax #takeiteasy #yah #jungle #paradaise #fucknormal #freeparty #rave #kaotik #fyahburn #runaway #roadtozion #happiness
 
Sascha
Coming up as a regular feature in future postings here, we will have the honour of reviews from around Europe by Sascha: let's term them Sascha's soaks:

Sascha's soaks
Ischia, Italy
On Ischia, there seem to be three natural hot springs. All the other are commercial ones, whereas some of them are very beautiful and definitively recommended. Two of the three natural hot springs are only usable at low tide. 
When I was there, I could see the hot water coming out of the sea, but there was not enough hot water to soak. The one which remains, is on the sea near Sant Angelo (Sorgeto). The water comes out of the rocks at 90°C and flows into the sea. In some areas cold water needs to be mixed up, on other places the water keeps the same warm temperature. Unfortunately, this spot was too touristic for me, as you can see on the picture.
My evaluation: 3 stars (I prefer pools with a constant temperature in a less touristic spot).

Around the continent
Further afield: Abkhazia. Apparently named Kyndygsky (or Kyndyg) hot spring, the water is boiling hot. Used to be a lot more primitive, seems that new Russian money has arrived. But where are the soakers?

Кындыгский горячий источник emoji вот так выглядит днем emoji Скважина считается высокотермальной, температура на выходе около 100 градусов. Настоящий кипяток. Вода течет по системе желобов и постепенно охлаждается до температуры приемлемой для человеческого тела. Здесь можно принять мощный напористый горячий душ и искупаться в нескольких бассейнах. Также есть лечебные грязи. Вода хлоридная, кальциево-натриевая pH 7,5.

Armenia
Where does Europe stop / start? The picture below is from a muddy hot spring in Armenia (source). On the edge of Europe? The hot spring of Hankavan is not really muddy, more sulpheric.

#hotspring #thermal #mudbath #Estonians
 
France
Via my tumblr site, Noel sent me a dozen or more photo's from a visit to Rennes les Bains:

'Rivière salé de Rennes les Bains. Cet endroit se nomme “La fontaine des amours” Elles se trouve à Rennes les Bains dans le sud de la France. Sur les bords de celle ci se trouve un lot d’inscription datant de 1800 voir 1851. Plein de messages d’amours y sont gravé dans le roc et les arbres bordant cette rivière. Beaucoup de couple y viennent de nuit var il y a de jolies bassins étagés. Non loin de là à moins d’un kilomètres se trouve une source chaude ferrugineuse ainsi qu’un lavoir que l’on nomme ” les bains forts”
Source chaude des bains doux de Rennes les Bains dans le sud de la France. Cette une eau chaude à 33° en permanence été comme hiver. L’eau sort en dessous des anciens thermes. Le 26 septembre 1992 il y a eu une très grosse inondation qui à littéralement nettoyé le rivages. Cette une eau thermale de très bonne qualité…'.
Hungary
CNN (June 27) has a presentation on Hungary's best spa's, all based on thermal waters. The article also seeks to warn it's readers:
'There's an emphasis on health and well being, so many of the facilities are more functional than plush'. 
What's wrong with functional?

Iceland
Did we know that Iceland is hiding hot springs from us unsuspecting folks? My1stimpressions:
'Hidden in a canyon of lava stones difficult and dangerous to reach for those who are not used to, there is a hot spring of clear blue water waiting for you. The place is like a hidden forgotten paradise on Earth. At times it gets really full of locals who use to go there to bath and drink in company. Sometimes they enlight candles in it, making the atmosphere even more magic. They say young Icelanders are allowed to get down there only when they are teenagers, and imagining the adventure that means at that age makes you feel jealous of them.
Tourists are not allowed. The place is in a private property whose landlord has allowed locals to bath in it. Only locals. No tourists please. That’s what makes this place special. It is still a place where you can find the pure Iceland'. 
But the you used, is not you

Hrunalaug source

But don't count the inventiveness of the tourists out. The Reykjavik Grapevine (May 3):
'RÚV reports that construction workers for the tunnel found themselves in the position of having to act as lifeguards as well. About half a dozen tourists were spotted – and photographed – bathing in a steaming creek of water near the construction area.
While the heat of the water is a comfortable 40°C, it is not one of Iceland’s many natural geothermally-heated creeks and pools. Rather, it is run-off from the drilling of the Vaðlaheiði tunnel, near Akureyri'.
The Iceland Review  (July 18) keeps us abreast of the legalities of admission fees in Iceland for the use of what are essentially nature's gifts:
'The magistrate in Húsavík has placed an injunction on the collection of admission fees at the hot springs by Námaskarð and the Leirhnúkur-Krafla caldera, by the Association of Landowners at Reykjahlíð'.
However then comes the following news (Iceland Review, July 25): 
'Travel agencies have been warned not to take tourists to certain areas near Lake Mývatn after an injunction was placed on fee collection in the area, in particular to the hot springs near Námaskarð and the caldera of Leirhnjúkur-Krafla where the landowners at Reykjahlíð have been charging for admission over the past month'.
The gloves are off?

Italy
A bit off-topic (well not really): the Guardian (25 April) gives us a Top 10 Wild swimming locations in Italy. Great natural places to be. It includes Terme del Bullicame in Lazio near the Tuscan border.

Talking of Tuscany, if you're interested in other uses of geothermality you need not to look any further than there. The novel part, as reports thinkgeoenergy (July 23), is that geothermal steam is now an integral part of the process of brewing beer with names as double malt Magma, Sulfurea pale ale and the Weiss Geyser!
'A huge range of products have been created thanks to EGP’s geothermal energy in the small towns of the Tuscan hills. A number of agricultural enterprises in Monterotondo Marittimo use steam from EGP’s plants in the production of their pit-aged cheeses, just like pork meat factories do for the aging of their Cinta Senese sausages. The geothermal menu also includes vegetables: each year Parvus Flos, a cooperative in Radicondoli near Siena, produces more than 12 tonnes of organic basil that is cultivated in 20,000 square metres of greenhouses heated with steam from EGP facilities'.
Spain
Day Four: I spent the whole day swimming in the hot springs just outside Valencia! It was amazing!! #valencia #spain #hotsprings #eurotrip 

Not really hot, the Fuente de Los Baños springs delivers waters at about 25 C. Weekends see big crowds.
Turkey
Earlier this year, Nomadikat visits Bursa, Turkey and does the hamam at Karamustafa Kaplicalan. Her account:
'"Turkish baths are a traditional thing," Mehpare explained, "Not many young people go anymore. Turkish Baths are not at all hip – they are considered to be somewhere our grandparents go." She went on to explain how some doctors prescribed visits to the Turkish Baths for various medical conditions, from arthritis to herniated discs. That explained why a lot of women were not in the best shape, and watching a bunch of half-naked women scrub one another was not exactly the scene from a stag film that one might imagine.
At first, I wore my bikini, as I initially did not want to go topless. I was slightly uncomfortable, and a bit plagued by my American nudiphobia. This would be cured, though, by the time I went for my massage. All of the women at the bathhouse were totally topless. It was normal practice to be almost nude'.
Eventually though she loves the experience though hates the lack of hygiene.