All-out

lena.ne.lena

#abanotubani #tiflis #falcon#georgia

Georgia doesn't seem to be a destination high on the list of many tourists. Wikitravel tries to lure the visitors summing the country up as follows:

'Georgia is approximately the size of Ireland and lies along the same latitudes as Bulgaria, Southern France, and New York. For a country of its modest proportions, it presents a remarkable mix of landscapes and climates, ranging from some of Europe's highest mountain peaks to the vast wine-growing valleys and lush Black Sea resorts'. 

No doubt it's past as part of the U.S.S.R. and current political instability fail to attract many a potential tourist. 

However, just recently our special contributor (Sascha) went to Georgia to search and find it's geothermal soaking sites. 
In this of what will be the first of 6 postings on Georgia, he takes us to the baths of Tbilisi, Georgia's capital.

Readers will note that I'll be adding the odd extra info, but basically what's between apostrophes are Sascha's words.

But let's start with Georgia. As in Sascha's words:

'In general, Georgia has some really fascinating spots like Swaneti region (however no hot springs in Swaneti). Architecture of the communism is destructing and disappearing. This can be an attraction for itself, but it is good to know it before starting the trip. So it is definitively not a holiday destination for “all inclusive amateurs”, but for those who are looking for new experiences. This sometimes requires [you] to avoid the main touristic spots which are definitively overpromoted by the tourist agency, but once you leave the beaten paths, there are still nice things to discover'.

Other than in the capital, Georgian soaking sites are at a premium, it seems. Theculturetrip notes 7 hot springs in Georgia. These are:

• Tbilisi sulphur baths
• Samtredia
• Tskaltubo
• Sairme
• Torgva
• Sulori
• Tsaishi

As said, by the end of the postings on Georgia, Sascha will have findings on 6 natural hot springs. Though other this posting, the others don't seem to line up. 
How many hot springs are there in Georgia? We'll revisit the list after all the posts. Just hold on for the ride.

Fall
So let's start with Tbilisi's Abanotubani district (see lead photo). Wikipedia:

'Abanotubani (Georgian: აბანოთუბანი, literally "bath district") is the ancient district of Tbilisi, Georgia, known for its sulfuric baths. Located at the eastern bank of the Mtkvari River at the foot of Narikala fort across Metekhisubani, Abanotubani is an important historic part of the city — the place, where according to a legend the King of Iberia, Vakhtang Gorgasali’s falcon fell, leading to a discovery of the hot springs and, subsequently, to founding of a new capital'.

It's sulphur hot springs: Georgiaphiles explains, though largely draws on an article by Mielnikiewicz and Rimple (Jan, 2012):

'Documentation of the hot springs goes back to the 10th century when an Arab geographer, Abu Dulaf, noted in his diary that “the water in Tbilisi boils without fire,” but recent archeological excavations indicate an even earlier settlement — Roman-style baths with plumbing that date to the 1st century. The Abanotubani baths are built along Persian traditions, but unlike the water in Persian baths (which are manually heated) the water in Tbilisi naturally comes from the earth with a temperature ranging between 75 and 107 degrees Fahrenheit.The bathing tradition caught on quickly, aided by the city’s historic position at the nexus of the Silk Road. By the 13th century, there were 63 baths in the area, according to Tbilisi historian Tsira Elisashvili. In the early 19th century, Russian visitors described 10, about the same number that exist today. Known for their healing powers, the Tbilisi baths were strongly recommended to Russian invalids and city-dwellers, who traveled through the difficult mountain passes to “take the waters'.

Georgian Journal:

'The story goes back to the fifth century when the founder of Tbilisi King Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting with his falcon near the Mtkvari River. The falcon caught a pheasant but then dropped it. The servants, who were sent to bring the bird back, found it boiled in a hot stream. The King ordered to build a city there and made it the capital of Georgia. Therefore the name of the city – Tbilisi, is derived from a Georgian word “TBILI”, which means warm. Arabian geographer, Ibhn Haokal, wrote: “There are hot waters in Tbilisi, which are boiling without fire”. According to the historical sources, there were 65 mineral baths in Tbilisi in the 13-th century'. 

Sascha continues:

'The old town of Tbilisi (which is quite touristic but a must to visit) offers several thermal pools that are not natural but authentic, cheap and therefore worth a visit.
There are 3 baths in the district: pool “orbeliani”, pool “bakhmaro” and pool “no.5”.
The first one mentioned is from outside the most beautiful and looks like a mosque. Unfortunately, there are only private baths possible which are quite expensive and does not give the authentic atmosphere of common baths'.

'I tried the public pools of “bakhmaro” (see pictures) and “no.5” and I recommend clearly the “bakhmaro” pools.
The men section is bigger than in no. 5 and also a cold pool exists.
The women’s section has an own pool, whereas in no. 5 women only have a shower of thermal water (but have to pay the same price as men, 3 GEL).
In the end, it is like a traditional Turkish hamman including a sauna with the difference that there is a pool with natural thermal water.
I forgot my thermometer, but I estimate the temperature of around 43°C.
Scrub massages are possible but costs extra.
Foresee about 1 hour, after that you will become too tired to stay in the pool'.

Booked

We now look at other experiences to be found online. In fact there are quite a few to be read. Following are just a few snippets.

Travelsofabookpacker from Nov. 2017:

'We had a look at six different bathhouses in the Abanotubani district of Tbilisi and used two of them.
...
There are around 10 bathhouses in the Abanotubani area. The Tbilisi bathhouses all have private rooms of varying standards, sizes and prices. Your best bet is to take a wander around the area and ask to look at some of the rooms. The staff are quite happy to show you the options before you make a booking'.

Georgia starts here:

'... nowadays most visited places are in Abanotubani: “Orbelian Bath”, “Royal Bath House”, “Sulphur baths”, “Bakhmaro baths” and the oldest “Bath house #5”, which is  the cheapest and the oldest  and it’s located right in the middle of Abanotubani'.

Dariko (Jan. 2, 2018) looks at the various prices and what you get (or don't).

Georgian bathing pointers by loveatfirstlayover.

Sips

Let's try to sum up. I am using Tripadvisory, but Tripadvisor seems often confused as well. In general Tripadvisor gives this a 4.5 star experience for a sulphur bath though some had lesser experiences. But relies on 900+ reviews.

Others:

• Bakhmaro. Tripadvisor (5 stars)
• Gulo. Tripadvisor (3,5 stars)

martk2016

Sipping chai in the sulfur baths of Tbilisi. The water is scalding in one pool and freezing in the next. A masseuse enters to exfoliate all the dead skin cells from your body and you leave with baby smooth skin and a restful mindset.

• Royal Bath / Samefo / Queens. Tripadvisor (4 stars)

hapyjelybely

Another must-do in #Tbilisi is to experience a #sulphurbath The prices for the private rooms vary according to size, aesthetics and facilities. Ours was the most basic at 40 GEL and we paid 20 GEL each for a body scrub which was very much needed after the constant sweating and being covered in grime. I’m a huge fan of the full body #scrubdown No awkwardness at all 🤗 #jellbellingeorgia #abanotubani #chreliabano

• Bath no. 5. Tripadvisor (3,5 stars)
• Bohema / Fantasy / Mirzoyev Bath. Tripadvisor (4 stars)
• Orbeliani. Tripadvisor (3,5 stars)

What does seem to sum up soaking in Tbilisi's sulphur: shop around for prices. The more private, the higher the price. 
Private rooms include a (dry) changing room and a wet room with hot bath, cold bath, possibly a sauna and a massage place. It certainly looks the way to go on the former: experience a scrub massage.

cilfik

Mezitím v sirných lázních

Proof

Despite living along side a quite active geological fault zone, there's little to note on Croatia's hot springs.

With most of the country lapping up a huge chunk of the Adriatic's west coast, it's mostly in the northern more mountainous areas where you'll discover geothermal sources; though there's little left to enjoy in nature. See f.i. this link to spa's in Croatia

On a recent non-soaking sojourn, I visited Croatia's city of Split which revels in the jewels of it's past: the Diocletian palace. 
Though the palace may once have been on a strip of land between a lagoon, peninsula and the sea it may well be, that it's origins are to be traced back to those with a geothermal origin.
That's at least what Rusko & Balog (2007) suggest:

'Numerous researchers believe that the Emperor Diocletian used the sulphur spring and that it was one reason for building the Palace at that site. This cannot be proved since there are no written documents'.

Well, they mention sulphurous origins, not necessarily thermal. Could they be hot? Not. According to the same source:

'The highest temperature recorded at the Split spa sulphur spring was 23.75° (30 September 1987) while the lowest was 14°C (20 January 2004)'.

Evidence
Let's see what we can find.

Where the palace was once lapping the shores, there's now a café-lined strada (the Riva) which passes from the market south of the palace to the yacht harbour to the north. Take your time and stroll along the Riva and take in the surroundings; but above all smell. Once you have passed the palace walls you'll notice the whiff of sulphur.

This whiff comes from the drain of the source of sulphorous waters. 

It's actually known that Split possess sulphur baths. Tripadvisor: 

'... the smell has been here for 2000 years from an underground sulfur spring that legend says is one of the reasons Diocletian built his palace here--sulfur was thought of and still is used medically to cure certain bone ailments. The fabulous art deco building a stone;s throw from where you were sitting is actually a clinic that still does this treatment and the 100 year old fish market next to it was purposely built there to take advantage of the fact that flies, like humans, are also repelled by such fumes'.

 Virtualtourist (2016) adds some info on the bathing building itself:

'I am not sure if there excist any other Secession building in Split besides Sulphur baths in Marmontova street. This construction was built in the very beginning of the 19th century and is fine example of the Art Nouveau style in Split. It is designed by a local architect who studied in Vienna and came back home "infected" by the Secession.

The spa is still working (its smell could be feel for milles around) and serve as an rehabilitation center for various rheumatic problems'

Where is this building?

Head inland from the Riva up the strollable Marmontova street and 100m from the harbour on your right you'll see the elaborate decorated Art Deco building Sumporne Toplice. This is just before the fish market. 

The building apparently still houses / functions as a sulphur bath though there were precious little clues as to whether it was till in function other than a plaque with this text:

'This building of 1903 designed by Kamilo Tončić is an impotant specimen, with its richly decorative elevations and interiors, of Croatian Art Noveau architecture. It was built over natural sulphur springs that have been used for therapeutic purposes since the 18th century'.

The building itself is neatly adorned such as in the picture below:

Though the Vitaltourist source above mentions it still functioning, this article notes how it needs to be revived possibly to put Split on par with the German spa town of Baden-Baden.

A bit of history by Vlak (2000) which suggests that bathing halted before start of the Millennium:

'The sulphurous waters of Split have been in traditional medicinal use for a full 17 centuries, ever since the construction of the Palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian. The "Sulphur Baths" of Split (Croatia) reached their greatest recognition and popularity at the beginning of the 20th century, when the sulphurous spring was declared to be the source of some of the highest quality medicinal mineral water in Europe. However, interest in balneology and climatotherapy, hitherto so popular in the area, subsequently declined. The "Sulphur Baths" gradually lost their importance and medical use of the sulphurous water gave way to modern forms of physical therapy. The beginning of the 1990s marked the end of commercial and every other use of the mineral water in Split'.

As could be expected, there doesn't seem to be much evidence of any action or possibility to admire the buildings interior. It does seem odd at the least that despite all the assurances of how a sulphur bath is a benefit to anyone's health, the waters simply drain into the harbour ... 

Still it could be worse. If one delves further in Splits history, where now stands the iconic Hajduk FC stadium were public mud baths with sulphuric mud (source).

Notes

Rusko, M & K. Balog (2007) Characteristics and origin of the Spilt sulphur spa (Southern Croatia). Manažérstvo životného prostredia 2007 Management of Environment ´2007 zo VII. konferencie so zahranicnou úcastou konanej 5. - 6. 1. 2007 v Jaslovských Bohuniciach. Proceedings of the International Conference, Jaslovské Bohunice, 5-6 January 2007

Vlak, T. (2000) From the history of the Split hot springs Reumatizam. 2000;47(1):25-30.