Monday, July 22, 2024

Solo

Aguas termales -
En esta foto sólo vemos un pequeño ángulo de las pozas de aguas termales de Alhama de Granada, que esta vez compartía con otras once personas de distintas procedencias a las que no quería fotografiar y con las que echamos un rato muy agradable de conversación acerca de otros lugares como este.
Era una parada obligatoria yendo con mi hija pequeña, ya que no las conocía aún. Fue ella la que me hizo la foto (una de 22 😅) y la que me acompañó durante más de hora y media de baño...
Salimos arrugados de tanta agua, yo incluso un poco mareado debido a la bajada de tensión producida por la temperatura, que ronda sobre los 40ºC.
Fuera del agua también hacía mucho calor, pero la sensación era muy agradable igualmente. Obviamente allí sólo estuvo un nudista esa tarde... 😞 Seguro que adivináis quien era.
(26/06/2020)
__________________________
#nikond500 #tokina1120
#relax #relaxtime #relaxing
#holiday #travel #trip
#summer #verano
#portrait #retrato
#beard #bearded #barbudo
#reflejos #reflexes
#agua #water
Starting off this update of sources topical on the Iberian peninsula.
Galicia en Ruta has a recent (Mar. 29) short reference on Facebook to Termas de Prexigueiro, an outstanding still free hot spring. Including atmospherical imagery.

Lucy and Ben of Rusttoroadtrip have been checking out (Jun. 26) some of Portugal's natural hot springs, most to be found on the Azores. From their insta account, an exception:
'Caldas de Rainha, an hour’s drive from Lisbon, is a city home to the world’s oldest thermal hospital. To us the idea of a thermal hospital was entirely alien, coming from a country where the NHS is our proudest national achievement (that and David Attenborough), yet the therapeutic effects of thermal water are woefully understudied.
As we were shown around the grand hospital building, we were fascinated to discover that students came here from all over Portugal to study the use of thermal water as a healing tool. We were shown around the rooms of baths and ceramic inhalators, some cracked with age'.
Elsewhere on their Iberian (and Azores) tour they have been to locations in the south of Spain (link, Jun. 10). 
On their own website they have posted (Jun. 18) an intriguing stay in Portugal:
'Carved into the steep-sided banks of the river Tua in the north of Portugal, almost invisible from the cobbled road, lies the ghost village of S.L. Hollow-eyed houses with empty window frames and broken shutters peer unseeingly at the impressive view, garden terraces long since overgrown. Only two buildings have roofs and windows in tact, a small guesthouse, little used, and a brand new spa building that was built and decommissioned within 2 years of opening.
...
We can’t resist a bathe, even though the water is only 32ºC it’s rich in minerals, and soaking beneath the stone ceiling, blackened with age, and the ancient stone walls flickering with red candlelight feels rather like sitting at a sacrificial altar'.

Add-ons

Путешествие по термам Италии. Витербо. Термальные бассейны Bulicame и скважина. От самоизливающейся скважины с горячей водой с температурой 60 градусов вода направляется по искусственным каналам в два мелких больших бассейна. Посетителей не много, лежаков здесь нет, ктото приносит с собой раскладные стулья. По всей территории видны старые каналы, по которым направляли воду в бассейны. Об этом месте писал Данте в «Божественной комедии». 
#термальныеисточники #термальныеисточникимира #термы #terme #thermalsprings #hotsprings #terme #viterbo #bulicame
Over to Italy. 
Worldthermalsprings has been hot on tour (Jun. 12 - Jul. 3) of Italy (see above), Rome and the north, a seemingly never ending visit to all commercial and / or public springs available, see their map. Probably best to check their insta account as the website itself has yet to be updated with these finds.

The Facebook page of Sicilia Segreta highlights (Jul. 13) the Bagni di Cefalà Diana which is significant due to being the only Islamic thermal complex on the island.

A find, the excellent Nature & Source Chaude. A French language blog with hot springs in the lead. Mostly from france of course, though there are also entries on Italy. Good info, good research as well as the add-on of drone coverage. A recent (Jun. 18) entry is on central Framce's Source Croizat. Translated:
'When these waters are not agitated (no bathers), natural light helps to bring out their perfect clarity. This light is also a source of energy for the photosynthetic micro-organisms that flourish freely in the water (several billion per litre) and those that cover its perimeter. This thermal plankton (cyanobacteria, protists, etc.), visible on the edges, produces enormous quantities of active molecules in the water'.
Fontpedrouse termas naturales. 🥶🥵
#termas #fontpedrouse #pirineos #rio #riocaliente #aguastermales #enfurgomolamas #soykaracol #eternoviajero #vwt4 #camperlife #vanlife #vanlifestyle #bañostermales #cerdanya #france #fontpédrouse #t4camper #t4 #aguascalientes #thermas #natural #naturaltherapies #natural #natura #bains #thermalwater #pirineofrances #pirineus #pratsdebalaguer
Marketing
Over to the sauna world.

Starting off with a snippet which falls right on the fence itself. ThinkGeoenergy (Jul. 19) report on how the town of Oldenburg will use geothermal heat to rebuild public facilities which include a saltwater bath and sauna's.

BBC look into beer spa's (Jun. 10):
'Beer spas have recently opened in Iceland, Spain and the US – but they take their cue from an older tradition in a country with a long history as a beer bastion: the Czech Republic.
The stained-glass image of one of greatest scientists in history – 16th-Century Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe – looked down on me as I prepared jump into a giant 1,000-litre water-filled oak tub. Assisting me was Nikola Skypalova, who was holding big wooden ladles brimming with key elements to add into the water.
"This is hops – it relieves stress from your body and also opens up your pores," she said, pouring it into the tub. "And this is brewer's yeast, which has a lot of vitamin B, and makes you look younger."
In it went, along with malt – another well-being booster.
...
Almost every beer spa talks of beer bathing dating back millennia – though this seems to involve conflating the historical existence of spas with the co-existence of beer, with no evidence the two came together at ancient kick-back time.
...
Czech beer spas, meanwhile, regularly cite one of the multiple former kings called Wenceslas as a regular beer bather. Sadly, this also stands up about as strongly as someone who's drunk too many pints from the beer spa tub-side taps.
"This is certainly not true," says Libor Zajic, a European brewing history expert at Masaryk University in Brno – though he adds that one of the royal Wenceslases did become the patron saint of Czech brewers in the 14th Century. "It's a marketing trick of companies that operate beer spas – businesses that are a modern invention.
.. 
Beer may have been added to baths in the Middle Ages, as many other substances were, but certainly not with any deeper intention."There may, however, be a stronger case on the wellbeing side. "Beer consists of three components that are beneficial to skin: malted cereal grains, yeast and hops," says Dr Cindy Jones, a biochemist at Colorado Aromatics. "Both malted grains and yeast contain B vitamins, which increase skin hydration and elasticity, and decrease hyperpigmentation'.
An Australian look at Austrian spa etiquette. Sydney Morning Herald (Jul. 11):
'Forget all that nonsense about the Scandinavians and the Germans and their propensity for getting their kit off in public; it’s the Austrians who have taken the art of nudity to a whole new level.
I became convinced of this when two members of our travel group were turfed out of a five-star Austrian hotel spa for the sin of … wearing clothing. And we’re talking swimsuits here, not a three-piece suit and a trilby. The women were agog, and not a little indignant, at being told to get undressed or get out.
...
That night at dinner in a traditional Hutessen restaurant (where you DIY-cook strips of meat by throwing them against what is essentially an upright brazier) a young Austrian public relations woman explained that she happily went to spas/saunas with colleagues (male and female) after a day at the office or at a conference.
It was just a way of life, a social ritual about as controversial as going for a cheeky beer after work. Which is when it hit me; I have nothing against getting my clothes off with a bunch of strangers – after all, I’m never going to see them again – but I wondered if, when it came to friends and colleagues, would I feel different? Not so this young Austrian woman, who looked at me like I was a crazy old stick-in-the-mud. What, your work colleagues haven’t seen you naked?
Badische Neuste Nachrichten however explains (Jun. 28) how catering to tourists means local etiquette can be ignored in the search for more money. 
In the past a visit to Baden-Badens' Friedrichsbad has often resulted in many comments about how un-accustomed one is to the German nacktpflicht. However the operators of the Friedrichbad have decided to allow clothing bathing which will be allowed twice a week (Wednesdays and Saturdays), as of the beginning of July:
„Wir wollen das Bad attraktiver machen und mehr Gäste anlocken“, sagt Cornelia Buchmüller, bei den Bäderbetrieben für Marketing und Öffentlichkeitsarbeit zuständig, auf Anfrage der Redaktion.
„Viele internationale Touristen haben eine andere Sicht auf die Körperkultur als wir. Sie haben das Bad bislang wegen der Pflicht zur Textilfreiheit gemieden“, erklärt sie. „Für diese Gruppen wollen wir uns nun auch öffnen.“
...
Doch in einer Zeit, in der kulturelle Sensibilität und persönliche Bedürfnisse immer mehr an Bedeutung gewinnen, sei es essenziell, „dem Trend zur Textilbadekultur Rechnung zu tragen. Wir glauben, das ist jetzt der richtige Zeitpunkt“, sagt Buchmüller. Mit der Einführung von Badetagen mit und ohne Badekleidung „können wir das historische Kulturgut Friedrichsbad und das Erlebnis der Römisch-Irischen Badekultur noch mehr Menschen zugänglich machen“, hoffen die Carasana-Bäderbetriebe.
Good to see that management are more concerned about their bottomline. Pity though that this rite of passage for international tourists will disappear, just for the sake of some coins. In the past tourists were alerted by management that naked bathing and saunaing was more hygienicinic (example). Not so now?
The article reference on instagram garners quite a few replies. Some examples:
Sehr schade dass wieder mal wir es sind die sich anpassen. Traditionen sind eben Traditionen. Aber wenn's um Geld geht ...'.
Though many defend the decision. 
And then there's organised resistance to the view that the town's cultural heritage should be determined by private companies (Badische Neuste Nachrichten, Jun. 24) seeking profits, above culture / history:
'Das Friedrichsbad habe aber große Bedeutung für das Welterbe und beherberge einige bedeutende Kostbarkeiten, die der Öffentlichkeit kaum bekannt seien. Für die Pflege des historischen Bades und ein „erlebbar machen“ seien geschichtliche, balneologische und physiotherapeutische Kompetenzen notwendig'.
Självklart!! Det är väl bara sinnessvaga som badar med kläderna på..........
#saltholmen #saltholmensnakenbad #blackandwhitephotography #blackandwhite #svartvittfoto #svartvitt #nudebathing #göteborg #gothenburg #sweden #sverige
Swedish bathing culture. A few bath houses (Kallbadhus) in west Sweden allow naked bathing, but only Göteborgs' Salthomen enforces nudity. With a recent example of enforcement reported by Göteborgs Posten (Jun. 29):
'A day in the high summer heat at the cold bathhouse took an unexpected turn for Louise - when her 16-year-old daughter was scolded for wearing clothes.- You have to respect that they are teenagers and that sometimes it can take time, says Louise.
- I protect the nude bath we have, counters the association's chairman.
...
On the cold bath house's website it says " According to the association's bylaws, we all sunbathe and bathe naked. This applies to both members and day visitors.” But in the statutes, the wording is that the association's goal is to " contribute to and 
nurture a healthy and inclusive nudist culture".
It is thus open to interpretation'.
This example of exclusion has been made public, so as to force the hand of management? Opinion differs apparently (see flashback, just 50+ pages (600+ comments) of comments to wade through!), a further news report (Jul. 3) notes from the same source what other bathhouses have as rules. Translated:
'At Ulricehamn's cold bath house, there are also no explicit rules about what you should or should not wear on your body when sunbathing and swimming, according to chairman Jan Fritzson.
- The only thing is that you shouldn't sit with bare bottoms on the lichen in the sauna, but then you have to sit on a seat pad.
The rule that visitors must be naked in the sauna also exists in Varberg and Lysekil due to hygiene reasons.
- But you can cover yourself with a towel, says Eva-Lott Swahnberg'.
For something different. Saunatimes look (Jun. 27) at the Oslo floating sauna scene:
'No Oslo floating sauna trip is complete without experiencing any one of the 15 floatings saunas (and counting) as part of Oslo Badstuforening (Oslo Sauna Association). The saunas are set up in a couple different clusters. I was able to enjoy multiple saunas. Each sauna is special in its own way. Artistic, floating, and awaiting your presence'.
The author also writes up his sauna studded stay while on a sojourn from the US in the same Saunatimes (Jun. 2):
'As an inspiration for your own sauna travels, here is a travelogue of my recent trip to UK and Norway, where I enjoyed these 25 saunas in 9 days'.
3wCheck out the new flagship of the Oslo Sauna Association - @estudioherreros ‘s beauty, TROSTEN. With its playful and colorful expression, the outer facade is made from recycled aluminium, containing more than 75% of reused post-consumer aluminium scrap.
📍: Oslo, Norway 🇳🇴
Special thanks to:

Finally, American Banyasf are on their Central European tour where they were at Therme Wien (Jun. 29):
'Therme Wien was the biggest therme so far and hosted multiple saunas with regular aromatherapy sessions, a cold plunge, 2 steam rooms, a gender-separated area for those so inclined, and beautiful outdoor relaxation areas. 🌿🧖‍♂️ In Budapest all of the thermes were clothing required. In Vienna and for the rest of the trip, all of the thermes would be textile-free, no clothing allowed in the sauna areas. As such, you can't take pictures inside. Just like at Archimedes Banya'.
From Jul. 6
'Day 8 The main event: Therme Erding, the world's largest spa! We indulged in aromatherapy sessions and the Champagne Pool in the textile-free section. There are 24 saunas and, as described on the website, “around 150 feel-good activities … waiting to be discovered by you every day.” It was so much fun that our group closed the place down at midnight. An unforgettable experience!
Day 1 - Budapest
The Sparty Bath Party at Széchenyi Bath was an unforgettable experience! From DJs to aerialist it was an experience - we missed the sauna's of the Széchenyi Bath which were closed for the party but the laser lights, electronic music, and warm thermal waters made for a night to remember.
Have you ever been to a bath party?
#archimedesbanyatour #SpartyBathParty #SzéchenyiBath #BudapestNights #banyasf #suana #archimedesbanya #Saunatour #spaparty

Upperhanded


What turned out to be a very rewarding stopover (in thermal experience sense that is), a visit to Ax-les-Thermes should be high on your hot springs agenda.

The town itself is not too different, especially during the afternoon, very sleepy. However authorities have gone out of their way to make the thermaility of the surroundings as the an example of why you would want to stay here. The village's existence is primarily thanked to this thermaility.

Some publicly accesible bassins have been constructed to enable enjoying the hot springs as well being an attraction in their own right.


Ax-les-Thermes history is very much entwined with it's thermal heritage. Wikipedia:
'The waters, which were used by the Romans, were historically claimed to treat rheumatism, skin diseases, and other maladies.[4] The springs were developed in the medieval period on the orders of Saint Louis to treat soldiers returning from the Crusades afflicted with leprosy. From the 19th century, a spa tourism industry developed'.
The village of 1200+ inhabitants relies very much on hydrotherapy. Again Wikipedia:
'Hydrotherapy (there are 60 sources at temperatures ranging from 18 to 78 °C, feeding three spas: Couloubret, Modèle, and Teich. The waters treat especially sciatica, rheumatism and certain respiratory diseases), winter sports, and tourism in general'.
The Commune website of Ax-les-Thermes with respect to it's heritage:
'In 1241, probably to compensate for the damage caused by a fire, the Count of Foix granted extensive tax privileges to Ax. It only became more popular and space within the walls became scarce. The freely available waters of Ax were used to wash wool, to scald pigs, to make soup, to treat people. The districts of the steam baths were not of good reputation: beggars, acrobats and girls of joy held the upper hand there'.

If my info is correct there are two commercial facilites. 
Thermes du Teich is one (above with park, below), Google reviews amount to 4.4 stars.


Les Bains du Couloubret (below) seems the more popular, Google: 4.2 (3,200+ reviews), Tripadvisor 4 stars (780+ reviews) while Facebook gives 4.5 stars (960 reviews).


Nature & Sources Chaudes probably has the go-to info (Jul. 5) on all the thermal qualities of Ax. It includes a map of the town with the various locations of thermal interest, though not all the mentioned 63 springs.
Highlighted are La fontaine du Couzillou, Le bassin de la Basse, Le bassin des Ladres, La source des Canons, La source des Rossignols, La fontaine du Coustou, La fontaine des Neiges and Le bassin de l'Axéenne.

Finally, another reference, Kucavana (31 Oct. 2020):
'Ax les Thermes is a spa town. I don't think we've ever seen a city with so many pools and hot springs before. It is an incredible place, every two steps you come across a fountain or a small pool of sulphurous waters.
The waters of these natural thermal pools in the south of France are hot all year round and are located in an incredible place in the middle of the French Pyrenees.
One of the most symbolic hot spring pools in the city is le Bassin des Ladres, in front of an old hospital for lepers that has a pond at the entrance to the thermal waters where you can put your feet. It is not uncommon for visitors to the town to refresh their tired feet on it after a long walk or in the attached hot springs of sulfur .
Apart from this natural thermal pool, there are two more significant ones. Behind the casino and that of a large square near the river'.

Revitalized


My followers of this blog will know that I like to highlight the odd mud bath here and there. Especially the natural mud bath culture seems very close to that of natural hot springs. 
On another blog post (Jan. 1, 2013) I have even created a European overview of private but more public mud (and assorted) holes.

If I think about it, I've been to a fair number of mud / clay baths. For instance: Vulcano, Menschel / Bad Sobernheim, Espalmador and Pantelleria, to name a few.

Northeast Spain, Catalunya (Cataluña) and especially the Baix Empordà area is known for it's clay properties, especially the town of La Bisbal d'Empordà is abundant with Terracotta ceramics derived from the local red argila clay sources found in the surrounding Les Gavarres.
Very worthwhile is a visit to the Terracotta Museum. It highlights the local history of gathering clay, stratifying this and it's use for industrial and artistic purposes. Upstairs are artistic exhibitions (the latter, see below). 


But none of this seems to have resulted in a culture which highlights the beneficial qualities of clay and bathing. It's all industrial and/or ornamental.

But not far from La Bisbal d'Empordà, close to the coast, there's a rustic place that has been offering clay baths / clay bathing for years. Sanamolls. Though initially emphasis was on the clay bathing, in recent years the center is developing with more holistically therapies.

What can be said about the clay used?

From the Sanamolls website and translated:
'The therapeutic properties of clay are many and already known, as well as used since ancient times. To mention a few, we will say that clay is remineralizing, vasodilating or vasoconstricting, depending on whether hot water or cold water is used respectively. Among the most well-known properties are absorbent, thanks to its porous nature. Clay is also disinfectant, bactericidal and anti-inflammatory - it helps to heal inflamed joints, bruises and fractures - it is very useful to eliminate accumulated tensions.
As for the skin, it stimulates its functions, leaving it after its application, firm, soft and without impurities, since among its benefits it stands out that it has revitalizing and restorative effects, as well as promoting purification by draining toxins.
The general effect is that of having performed a peeling. "The sine qua non of bathing is pleasure: feeling better after bathing than you did before" Leonard Koren. Cote Framis planted the first tree in SANAMOLLS 30 years ago. Today there is a small oasis of aromatic plants, fruit trees, garden and native trees...
With patience, constancy and enthusiasm, Cote has created a space for long-term activities dedicated to contact with nature and health'.

Sanamolls also has / had a blogspot page. 
Both pages are full of photo's (such as above) which should give you an impression of what to expect.

There are some press snippets.
Dairi de Girona (20 Aug. 2011), translated:
'An unknown place in the surroundings of the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Natural Park offers the opportunity to relax in the open air, but in an original way: by immersing yourself in the pasty mixture of water and mud. It is otherwise known as a "clay bath".
...
The beginnings of these geotherapeutic pools go back to the year 2000, when Framis and the other colleagues of the Association created a small mud bath in the area If you want a bath that acts as a natural peeling, without chemical components and that is revitalizing for your skin, don't hesitate. But prepare yourself.And how does a mud bath take place?
...
Cote Framis, who In 2007 he published his first and only book, entitled The healing power of clay. According to the naturopath, it is a bath that regenerates the skin and even the hair. So what was an experience?
Que.es (29 Jul. 2022) translated:
'Sanamollos is an NGO that has created a large natural space near the Aiguamolls de L'Empordà Natural Park, where there are open-air mud baths that attract many visitors. The clay is scented with natural aromas and has purifying, antibacterial and softening properties. Visitors who wish to do so can complete their treatment with different types of massages and other natural therapies. In this case, an entrance fee must be paid'.
Having had phone contact prior, we arrived just around midday, an appointment had been made.
First off, a massage, though Cote (manager of Sanamolls) noted that usually the experience should be the other way around. 
With the excellent massage behind us, we took to the clay bath, which had been prepared. Not too cool (air temperature was 22C) one slathers oneself in the clay / mud. And relax. The clay dry's out, one can roll around on soil to enhance the process. Then rinse.


Google reviews (just 16!) rate this 4.8 out of 5. Not bad apparently.

When you make a visit to Sanamolls, also include a visit to Aiguamolls de l'Empordà Natural Park, a very worthwhile experience, cool, many birds to be observed.

Enfangada terapèutica a #sanamolls #aiguamollsdelemporda @cote_framis

Worship


With some trepidition, an entry on a visit to the Merens-les-Vals source chaud, Ariège region of southern France.

Located in a forest above the village, savouring the surroundings alone is worth the visit. 
Drive from nearby Ax (or better still, take a train), park near the highway in Merens-les-Vals and climb up through the village towards the mountains. Roughly 10-15 minutes later, you'll leave the last few houses behind you, enter the forest and 5-10 minutes further you'll arrive at the larger pond which has been created close to the source.

Larger? Maybe 10 persons can sit comfortably; there are about half that when I got there, a couple of larger groups in the process of leaving. Very frequented thus.

I'll not add too much additional info, the natural surroundings are particulary sensitive, though I doubt whether the hordes even regard available warnings on this; they'll certainly act selfishy either way. 

So there's already quite a lot out there on the i-net. 
I'll start with this, which sums up the dilemma. The reference is from earlier this year (Mar. 10) from French language website Actu.fr. It highlights the often negative feedback from visitors. And adds (translated):
"Usage is that the owner tolerates bathing there, but not more than that," qualifies a good connoisseur of the valley. Contacted by Actu.fr , the Tourist Office of the Ariège Pyrenees says it is "no longer authorized to promote the sulphurous springs of Mérens, because they are in fact private."
The article refers to a Facebook posting from March 4 on the page Arièjo! O moun païs, a page dedicated to local info. 
The few photo's result in a litany of comments much in line with: it used to be better, it's totally ruined, blame social media, you should have been there 50 years ago. 
Certainly the simple existance of an easily accesible hot spring is one of nature's highlights, which visitors seek out to experience. It highlights how local businesses promote their nearness to this and internet is certainly not helping. But we are also with a lot more and more people on this globe, with more and more free time, so seeking soaking sollace is bound to increase. And that shouldn't be a problem. The problem comes with the lack of decorum, common sense shown.

Some common sense links then. Tierrassinfronteras has their own posting (in Spanish) on this hot spring (from Dec. 2022), it looks like I'm late to the party, unwanted? A translated snippet: 
'The first recommendation is the most important, this site is quite popular in summer and during festivities. Therefore, if you want to enjoy nature and a moment of relaxation, we strongly recommend visiting the thermal pools very early or very late and avoiding periods of high influx.
The second important thing is: this is a natural and wild space, so you must not leave any rubbish and you must preserve and respect it. If you find something lying on the ground, even if it is not yours, take it with you. Together we will make this corner a more pleasant and beautiful place.
The Mérens les Vals Thermal Baths are a place for body worship and relaxation. Avoid disturbing the atmosphere with unnecessary noise, and preserve the peace and tranquillity that can be felt in this magical natural environment.
Don't be surprised if you come across someone naked, the Mérens les Vals Thermal Pools are frequented by people who practice naturism.
Follow these recommendations and you will enjoy wonderful thermal pools in the Pyrenees'.
Wild Road (French) notes (Mar. 2021) a visit is a worthwhile winter activity for the Ariege region. He adds this (translated):
'A little tip for preserving the place: in order not to damage these natural springs, do not wash yourself in them. Respect the calm of the place and do not move the stones that surround the pools. Leave the place as you found it when you left and remember to take your waste away. These springs are very busy and can unfortunately be damaged due to incivility'.
The excellent Nature et Source Chaude blog has a more recent (Oct. 23, 2023) entry on Merens-les-Vals. If translated (from French) it gives all the info should you need should you be willing to partake the 20 minute uphill walk, from the village itself, through the fields and into the beginning of extensive forests:
'At dawn (I finally went back the next day very early because of the crowds), when I arrive at the site, I see a red frog that quickly blends into nature. Then a magical shiver (as always) occurs when the source of the baths is revealed . The vapors escaping into the air soothe and comfort me. The forest becomes a backdrop.
The layout is basic. Natural bathtubs have been dug into the earth and blocks of stone are used to outline the basins'.
Then there's the vlogs of Hiti (in French). She also hits Merens (Jan. 2021). Follow the link to the vdo. It's mostly about the car trip there though.

The popular review sites aren't too generous, the backlash certainly finding it's way to Tripadvisor which only notes 3 stars (from 56 reviews) with quite a few photo's. A (translated) sample:
Nice hike to do. A little difficult for young people (steep and uneven path; steep climb; multiple puddles and rocks in the middle of the path). Allow 15/20 minutes (with young children).
Very busy area so lots of people in the water. Not to mention the lack of manners of the visitors. Too bad (but not surprising)'.
Google only 2.5 stars from 6 reviews.

My own consideration: an eight, though heavily influenced by the lull in visitors.

🌀 Baños naturales sulforosos - Mérens-Lès-Vals (Francia)
Hoy hemos disfrutado de un relajante baño caliente en medio del bosque y rodeados de naturaleza. El agua caliente y sulfurosa y el silencio del lugar nos ha renovado. Ha sido fantástico.
🧭 Des de la iglesia románica de St-Pierre hay que seguir el sendero marcado del GR-10 (marcas rojas y blancas). La poza queda justo al lado del sendero, el olor a huevos podridos del azufre la delata.
🥾 Llevad calzado adecuado, el sendero está empedrado.
⏳ 15min (menos de 1km) des de la iglesia de St Pierre
🌡️ El agua sulfurosa emerge a una temperatura de unos 40°C, muy agradables en esta época del año.
🎟️ entrada libre, pero es un entorno natural, porfavor 🙏🏻 sead respetuosos con el entorno y dejadlo como si jamás hubierais pasado por allí
⌚️ Nosotros hemos ido hacia medio dia y hemos estado practicamente solos. Pero al irnos llegaba bastante gente. Es una poza pequeña.
🅿️ Para AC gratuito a 30min (1,8km) de las termas (N 42° 39' 31" E 1° 50' 9") y a 10min de la iglesia donde empieza el sendero. Para pernoctar tened en cuenta que hay cierta inclinación. En coche se puede llegar hasta la iglésia y aparcar allí (espacio para 3-4 coches.
...
#termas #termasnaturales #bañossalvajes #aguassulfurosas #france #francenature #francia #pirineos #pirineofrances #pyrenees #relaxtime #familyrelax #lifestyle #life #liveoutdoors #outdooradventures #outdoorbath #banysdebosc #termes #familiasviajando #viatgersdc #catalunya_viatjers #catalanspelmon #viajaresvivir
#takemeback
#traveladdict #midipyrenees

Paralyzed


In the past there has been the odd reference to the hot springs of Jafre, (Catalunya, northeastern Spain) on this blog. It's / it was always unclear whether or not it's still open.
thus, passing through the neigbourhood, a small detour was called for.

Jafre is a small sleepy village in the Baix Empordà area of northeastern Catalunya. Looks may decieve, but it seems it's claim to fame are very few.

Technically, the reference of this hot spring to this village is incorrect, as the source is located just over the border with neighbouring village Garrigoles, but a large forest and hilly area inbetween ensures the source is much closer to Jafre village. And more accissible from Jafre.

Looking into some history of the source, it is in fact not a natural source, but a by-product of oil explorating activities. 
The Catalan Wikipedia page dedicated to Pou del petroli (=Oil well):
'The oil well or Bassa de Jafre is a thermal water well in the term of Garrigoles, although the easiest access is through Jafre and this is where one of its names comes from. The origin of the well is the drilling of an oil exploration that in 1962 reached a depth of 2000 m but instead of oil it found sulphurous waters that flowed at about 60 degrees. Even though it was covered, the water pressure caused the well to spring up forming a pool of hot water that the people of the area used as thermal baths. 
In 2003 the water was declared as mineral medicinal and of public utility, and in 2005 a spa and hotel complex was built around it that intended to exploit the spring and channeled the water, but in 2008 the works were paralyzed by the crisis with most of the buildings already built and after a decade they were still waiting to be resumed. 
A local dedicated website, published 2005 and translated:
'Although it belongs to the neighboring municipality of Garrigoles, the hot water well or "oil well" is one of the most well-known and visited places and has spread the town's name around the country. This well was opened in the mid-sixties by the Italian company SIPSA, which was looking for oil on the Can Quintana estate. When they reached a depth of nearly 1000 meters they found hot and sulphurous water, although they proceeded to plug the outlet, the pressure repeatedly crumbled the plug. Very soon the place began to be frequented by people from all over the country and by many foreigners in summer, attracted by the properties of a water that benefits those with bone diseases, such as osteoarthritis or decalcification. This popular "spa" is simply the hole where the base of the surveying machine sat. It is 2x3 meters, and is used as a small swimming pool. The reputation of the waters prompted the Generalitat to build a new well, a short distance from the previous one, but within the district of Jafre, with a significant flow of water (100 m³ per hour) that had a temperature of 50º C. After an attempt to use the facilities for the cultivation of algae for medicinal purposes, the company that owns the place plans to build a spa with complementary facilities'.
kpacn (2017):
#relax #keepcalm #gd #friends #aiguestermals #jafre #birreo #risas #lempordà
A more recent posting (2017; same as date of photo above) on wikiloc refers to a number of relevant issues. Translated:
'Despite being in the area of ​​Garrigoles, some call it Jafre pond, but for the people of Prodalia, who knew its origin, it has always been the Petrol Well.
It all started when in 1962 a Catalan company of oil prospectors called SIPSA began drilling up to 2,000 meters deep.
...
The hole where the machine sat was plugged, but the pressure stubbornly popped the plug, so it became a sort of makeshift public spa of hot water with medicinal properties. A Jacuzzi avant la lettre. The water, like now, came out at a temperature of almost 60 degrees and the vapors surrounded the place giving it a fairy tale halo. It soon began to be visited by people from all over the country and by many foreigners, attracted by the properties of the water, which benefited those with bone diseases, such as osteoarthritis or decalcification, although it had to be careful not to spend too much time in the water so as not to lose your senses.
...
But an urban planning project to build a thermal center ended with the Pou del Petroli, remaining in oblivion.
But the pool springs up again. A recent leak [we're talking about 2017] in the catchment well that channels the water to the future thermal complex, no one knows whether it was accidental or premeditated, has led to a rebirth of the Jafre pond in a new location. A resident of the area has taken advantage of the hot water that runs along the side of a road to reproduce the old pond in a curious and meritorious exercise of poor architecture. The City Council has already warned that the days of this new pool are numbered, because it poses a health problem and does not have any authorization'.
Recent comments on the above are even more up to date:
almalilalibre (14 Nov. 2023)
Marcolic. Author. On behalf of the Jafre association that is fighting for this space to be public one day. (Right now it is private property) We ask you to delete this route. Right now we are in the middle of a conflict. And there are more and more problems with tourists who come from all over. And until this is resolved we do not want any more problems with the police.
Albett thai (28 Mar. 2024)
It is not advisable to go there, the police are constantly passing by and issuing fines, whether you are parked with a van or entering the hot springs, which are private'.
Ara.cat notes (from 30 Mar. 2017) virtually the same.

Could this be the source of (new found) worry:

AQUESTES SON LES TERMES DE JAFRE 47º
Also from this translation from 2017, it seems that the waters were to head elsewhere (to the above?):
'In 1991, the well was sealed with concrete, in compliance with the regulations that require aquifers that are not legally used to be closed. But the thermal water gushed out again and so did the public.
In 2000, the promoter Prestige Hotels of Josep Moyano, owner of several hotels in Roses and Barcelona, ​​showed interest in building a luxury spa in association with the Asian hotel group Six Senses. He bought land there, planned to invest 30 million euros and open it in 2007 as a European reference center for high-end tourism, with a hundred direct jobs, which was like saying half village of Jafre.
The real estate project was cut by the Urban Planning Commission of Girona. The construction started nevertheless. Today it is a ghost town of half-built buildings, degraded, without doors or windows. The developer entered bankruptcy with a debt of 48 million euros. The abandoned complex would be acquired at auction in 2013 for 9.5 million euros. It is now 44% owned by Banc Popular, 38% by Banco de Sabadell and 18% by the Institut Català de Finances. Together they didn't know what to do with it.
The spontaneous spring of thermal water returns has been covered since last August by the municipal services, to avoid public health problems. Another more practical way to avoid them would have been to enable a minimal access structure, as they have done in the outdoor thermal baths in the small municipality of Dorres, in Northern Cerdany (France), with parking for the cars, changing rooms, pavement, railings, for a price of €5 per entry'.
And our experience? 
Well we headed out to the fields, lots of birdlife btw. A walk through the forest and found the original source (below). Dry. Very much so. Nothing else.