No
esperes a tenerlo todo para disfrutar de la vida… ya tienes la vida
para disfrutarlo todo🙈👣❄️🌲
#lugares#lugaresespeciales#rincones#rinconesmagicos
#aguascalientes#aguastermales #frança#france#mountainlife
#mountainplaces #outdoor#outdoormountain#mountaingirls
#winter#winterplace #moments
Heading onwards, Spain is large contributor to this blog, though not necessarily that of Prexigueiro (above) or Bande (below); both from Galicia. Last one should be known to the followers: Termas de Santa Fe, Andalusia.
Today starts the Olympic blackout periode and after sorting all my clothing stuff, this is all I am allowed to wear for the next few weeks.😂 #naked#olympics
Hot on the heels of his Georgian quest for a good soak, he now focuses his attention to the southwestern Romanian town of Băile Herculane.
There are quite a few soaks to catch up with here. Let's just see what we can find on Băile Herculane and it's hot springs. Starting off with Wikipedia:
'Băile Herculane is a town in RomanianBanat, in Caraș-Severin County, situated in the valley of the Cerna River, between the Mehedinți Mountains to the east and the Cerna Mountains to the west, elevation 168 meters. Its current population is approximately 5,000. ... Legend has it that the weary Hercules stopped in the valley to bathe and rest. Unearthed stone carvings show that visiting Roman aristocrats turned the town into a Roman leisure center. ... In modern times, the spa town has been visited for its supposedly natural healing properties: hot springs with sulfur, chlorine, sodium, calcium, magnesium and other minerals, as well as negatively ionized air. Before World War II, when the first modern hotel was built (i.e. H Cerna, 1930) it remained a popular destination with Western Europeans. During the Communist rule, mass tourismfacilities were built, such as the 8- to 12-storied concrete hotels Roman, Hercules A, Hercules B, Afrodita, Minerva, Diana, UGSR, etc. which dominate the skyline. It was visited by all kinds of people, but was especially popular with employees and retirees, who would spend their state-allotted vacation vouchers there, hoping to improve their health. Today, they share the town with a younger crowd. New privately owned pensions and hotels appeared after 1989, along the Cerna/Tiena river banks, spread from the train station to the end of the hydroelectrical dam. Some of the Austro-Hungarian era buildings are derelict for the time being, including many of the baths, because of post-communism property related issues'.
'Baile Herculane is blessed with 16 thermal springs with different mineral characteristics. ... Around the statue of Hercules Baile Herculane’s imperial historical center offers a range of beautiful buildings like the imperial pavilions. Also see the railway station from 1878, which is one of Romania’s most beautiful stations. In imperial times, the Austrian empress Elizabeth – known as Sissi – came to Baile Herculane five times. For her the town was “the most beautiful spa resort on the continent”.
Amazingromania has a deeper look at the architecture of Băile Herculane.
'At present, 16 natural springs wait thermal mineral water, scattered along the Cerna for about 4 km, are known in the neighbourhoud of the resort Baile Herculane'.
'Archaeological digs confirm that humans have inhabited the area of modern day Baile Herculane since the Palaeolithic period. You can visit Pestera Hotilor (The Cave of Thieves) to see proof for yourself. The town is now famous for its luxurious thermal springs. Legend holds that Hercules himself once stopped here to bathe and rest. The city is so fond of its famous visitor that no less than six statues of him have been discovered here. Since WWII, people have come for the healing properties of the hot springs. Baile Herculane is a funny mix of senior citizens enjoying their retirement and the university crowd, looking for a great holiday'.
Travelguideromania has an extensive entry on Băile Herculane with some very good info:
'It was first documented in 153 AD. The first name of the resort was Ad Aquas Herculi Sacras Ad Mediam. It was given by the Romans, meaning the holy waters of Hercules from Ad Mediam.
...
All the springs are emanating a smell of sulfur, some stronger, some weaker.
The source of the spring waters seems to be in fact the surface water.
The water seeps underground and penetrate to depths between 1,000 and 2,000 meters. It heats up considerably (up to 190 ° C). After it rise to surface where it breaks in the form of springs.
The whole chemical process, which begins with the water infiltration into the underground and ends the day out as thermal springs, it can take decades and even thousands of years.
The water temperature is generally 35 ° -45 ° C, but in some cases up to 62 ° C. Water has a high degree of mineralization – as the result of the action of the hot water on the rocks crossed the way back to the surface.
...
Under the administration in Vienna were rediscovered the Roman baths and the resort started to develop.
Bathrooms were built and people were coming to treatment throughout the empire. Visiting the baths in 1852, the Emperor Franz Joseph I said that “now in the Cerna Valley is the most beautiful resort on the continent“.
...
Herculane Baths Resort nowadays: although it is a very important architectural heritage, the historic center suffers a fierce degradation. Even so, the historical buildings are outstanding beauties and worth visiting'.
A very extensive and informative article, a great source of information if visiting here.
'The waters in Baile Herculane are extremely beneficial to the health and come in a wide array of mineralization degrees and temperatures. There are chlorosodic, bicarbonated and slightly sulfurous mineral thermal waters, with a mineralization of 0.5 – 2.6 g/L and a temperature of 38 – 53 °C, chlorosodic, bicarbonate and calcic waters, with a mineralization of 0.6 – 3.5 g/L and a temperature of 46 – 56 °C and chlorosodic, sulfurous and iodized waters, with a temperature that reaches 62 °C and a mineralization of 3.85 – 8 g/L.
The springs available in Baile Herculane are similar to those available in Vichy and Le Mont-Dore, their main characteristic being the high concentration, of around 60 mg/L, of sulfurous hydrogen. More than 15 springs are known, the most important being Neptun, Diana, Hebe, Ileana, Iosif, Hercules and Hygeea, with waters that have temperatures between 41 and 67 °C. Baile Herculane is also well known for its natural aeroionisation. The aeroions are beneficial for the human body by lowering blood pressure and calming endocrine ailments, headaches and insomnia'.
So in general, the springs are well covered on internet.
Hospitable
Let's look at how Sascha approaches Băile Herculane:
'The pictures that I saw before of Băile Herculane were often not too inspiring. But the impression was wrong; I really appreciated the town and the hot springs. In addition, Băile Herculane is a good starting point for beautiful hikes in the Cernei / Domogled National Park that is part of the UNESCO heritage. In autumn with sunshine it is just wonderful.
The best map for the national park is published by muntii-nostri.ro, that map also helps to find the hot springs, although they are all close by the main street on the river and easy to find.
Băile Herculane is easy to reach; from Timisoara it is about 180 km, I took a rental car, but there is also a (slow) train that goes from Timisoara to Băile Herculane.
However, some hot springs require a long hike on the main street or a taxi. Because, the best hiking trails are a bit more inside the national park, a rental car is certainly a good idea.
It is also advisable, to spend 1 day in Timisoara, the town is in a good shape (in comparison to other Romanian cities).
Direct flights to Timisoara exist from Frankfurt Hahn and Brussels Charleroi with WizzAir.
It is easy to imagine how beautiful the city of Băile Herculane must have been in the past, when Sissy [of Austrian empire fame] stayed several times in her house close by the river.
Today, most houses are run down, the thermal complex is closed and also a number of (communist) hotel complex. It is like the city felt asleep and waits for complete face lift.
It is better to know that before travelling to Băile Herculane in order to avoid being disappointed. It’s part of the Romanian reality.
I travelled to Băile Herculane in October [2018] and there was no need to make a reservation before, which permits to negotiate the hotel prices. Some hotels also have pools with thermal water, and some few of them have the pool outside, which is quite nice in the evening after a long hike.
Do not expect too many young people; the average age should be around 60+. One reason is that retired persons in Romania get vouchers that permits to pay only 50% of the regular hotel price for a period of 60 days per year. Another reason seems to be that Romania does not have too much thermal towns, and Băile Herculane is the most known.
During my travels in Georgia I met a Romanian couple and they shared my point of view, that Georgians were not as friendly to tourists as we expected. “You should go to Romania and you will feel real hospitality” he said. Well, as most of my friends I had not a real idea of Romanian hospitality. After Băile Herculane and Timisoara, I have to admit they are really friendly and helpful. In each hot spring I found somebody who spoke a bit English or German, each soak ended in a discussions and translations for the other soakers. I had the impression, that in Romania, soaking is much more a social activity than e.g. in the Pyrénées / France where the impression was that everyone is soaking on his own'.
Murky
Sascha has visited nearly half what is officially listed as hot springs belonging to Băile Herculane, but not the 16 mentioned above. This post introduces Băile Venera. Sascha:
'The hot springs are described in a geographical order. Coming from the main road from Timisoara, you enter first in the town of Baile Herculane and the first hot spring to visit is Băile Venera.
Băile Venera is located in the town of Băile Herculane. There are inside bathrooms (entrance fee 7 Lei for adults) and an outdoor pool which was empty at the time of my visit. This complex was first built in 1838 during the Austrian-Hungarian Emperor. To find the free concrete pool, it is advisable to check the situation from the other side of the river, as the entrance is not directly visible. It looks that you are crossing private ground, but in reality it is the path to the pool. When you enter into the official Băile Venera ground you are on the wrong way.
The pool itself is 38°C warm; warm enough for a long soak. The water is somewhat green-murky, but seems to be normal and natural (the thermal water in the hotel had the same color). According to the hotel owner it is slightly radioactive, but the intensity is so low, that even children are admitted to soak as long as they want'.
The hot spring of Băile Venera has it's own Facebook page and it does seem that there's a more official part to this hot spring. In the photo above tou can see a sign above a lower building.
What Sascha has been looking at is the more rambling part, probably the citizens bath ...?
Furthermore from the website Barepockets.com it has the following:
'Băile Venera (“Venera Baths”) in the Old Historical Center is one of the very few surviving Roman baths in the resort. Not long ago, almost every hotel had its own baths, and there were several public ones to choose from. Now, they’ve all been left to rot, sad reminders of a golden age long gone. Băile Venera bears testimony to Roman-bath architecture, with high vaulted ceilings echoing and amplifying each sound'.
The final Georgian soaking report from Sascha, concerns that of Senaki / Menji.
Located in western Georgia the Senaki wikipedia page notes:
'At a three kilometer distance from Senaki the resort Menji can be found. During Soviet times it was a famous balneologycal and recreational water resort, which, nowadays, is severely damaged and abandoned'
'Menji
Banleological Resort is located in Western Georgia Senaki District, in
the Valley of the River Tsivi. There is subtropical climat, warm Winter
and warm and humide Summer. Menji is known by its Hydrogen Sulphuride
and Chloride Natriumian mineral waters, that are used for the treatment
of the following deseaes: joint bones, peripheral nerval system,
gynecological and heart, blood vein deseases. Season - whole Year.
Sanatoriums are under reconstruction works right now'.
Broken down Sascha picks up from here:
'Each local can show the way [to Menji]. The Menji Sanatorium was in Russian times well known to treat skin and stomach illnesses. The sanatorium is some kilometers west from Senaki town. The sanatorium today is a ruin, the last floor broke down and it is not recommended to visit the building. Surprisingly, the sanatorium is still habited by refugees from Abkhazia. It is hard to believe that the refugees are in such poor living conditions since years and nobody seems to care about them. After the Russians left Georgia, the sanatorium and the old spa were abandoned, however, the springs still exist a few kilometers further to the west'.
Let's have a look at these springs then. Sascha:
'A very friendly local took the pleasure to show me the real hot spring (after crossing by foot a river and private land). Here again, the thermal water is boiling, soaking is impossible. I could not determine where the water flows; I think it flows into the river, maybe it is worth a try to search further for some pools. The local also showed me near a pond, two other cold springs that were used in the past for stomach problems. The taste was extremely disgusting, like liquid old eggs. If anybody is interested in going here, let me know, he gave me his number and would be happy to show to other people the hidden treasures of the past. He speaks only Georgian, but as usual, after a while, a minimum understanding became possible'.
'I asked him if there were no real pools left with a possibility to soak in. Unfortunately, this was not the case, but around 2 km away on the fields exists another source with healing powers'.
Holed So Sascha continues:
'Without his help, I would never found the ramshackle (GPS: N42.283314°-O42.018571°) which was not closed and seems to be open for the public. This water was lukewarm and should be used like a shower but not for more than 15 minutes because it is highly mineralized. Not really sure if I understood for what illnesses the water is recommended, in any case the shower was very relaxing and the discovery of new spring was a great experience. The fact that (at least) 4 different sources with different healing effects are so close together, makes the Menji place quite unique in Georgia'.
The ramshackle
'Finally, on the road back, I stopped at the old spa of Senaki, one can imagine the beauty of the past. On the picture, you see on the roof some holes.According to my local guide, the holes are from Russian machine guns when troops destroyed the place before having left Georgia'.
Piped I would have imagined that there would quite a bit of info on the internet concerning these hot springs. But that's not what I can could find. As ever there's the fall back option of info from Thermalsprings.ru: with accurate precision Thermalsprings.ru notes that the former described hotsprings are those named Tzivi (Tsivi):
'Location: Tzivi village located west of district center of Senaki. Well Tzivi-north (provisional name) is located 400 m north of the train station Tzivi, as well Tzivi-South - B 1 km south of the station.
Tzivi North Tsivi
Konstantin : This box from which protrudes a pipe 2, the water is very hot. When they were greenhouses. Even say there is a bath - but not in the public domain, it is necessary to make arrangements in advance. Just so purchased will not work. Near the river Tzivi - muddy.
Tzivi-South
Constantine : Once there was a great resort, it is worth the distance a giant 9-storey building of the sanatorium - all dead and destroyed, tube from the source to the sanatorium - local dismantled. This remained a cottage. Water barely warm, but pleasant. You can drive any car'.
Though Tsivi in Georgian means cold ...
Then the other only worthwhile share is that by Marleen Laverman on circumbendibus (Jul. 13, 2016):
'We decided to drive towards the mountains of the high Caucasus, but we take it easy.
We read about hot springs on our way, and because our last shower was more than a week ago, they sounded even more appealing to us. Of course, we know that our expectations shouldn’t be too high, but there are two hot springs on our way and one of them should be good enough to wash ourselves a little bit, right?
The first one we want to check out are the Menji hot springs. A spa resort, as our tourist map tells, with curing mineral water. And it showed a picture of a beautiful gorge with stones and clear water. Let’s go there!
We have to take a dirt road and arrive in Mengi village. When we ask for the hot springs, nobody knows about it. But after sometime they seem to realize what we are looking for. “Ah, Sanatorium!”, and they point in a direction further away.
So, we drive on, out of Mengi village. We drive over a train track, pass a Soviet style apartment block and drive into a street. Outside of one of the houses there is a Georgian woman and I ask her where we have to go for Mengi sanatorium. She points us back again. But further than some pointing, our conversation doesn’t go. Too bad that we don’t speak any Russian! It seems like almost everybody in Georgia seems to know at least some Russian.
We turn the bus and drive back. We decide to take the dirt road that leads to the river. We drive on and on and than we end up at a place that is used as the local trash heap. Hmm, oh no…
“Why aren’t there any signs? It should be a place you should visit according to this tourist map!” I say. We try to turn at the small dirt track and drive back to the main road.
“Ok, let’s drive to the nearby city to ask there, they will know for sure”, Roderick says. We continue our quest, Roderick is notorious for not giving up easily… After talking to some people, they point us back in the same direction as where we were coming from. We pass the old Soviet apartment block again. It seems unmaintained, but at the same time it is full with laundry and we see some people walking around.
“Maybe it is this place?” Roderick says.
“No, I can’t believe it, did you see the pictures??! I don’t want to believe it!” I say.
We drive around the building and eventually stop in front of an old, crumbling stairway made of stone. Three man are sitting in the shadow of the trees. We stop and ask them: “Menji sanatorium?” They nod their heads and point enthusiastically at the building behind them. We are somewhat confused: should we be happy that we finally found it? Or should we be sad because it really is the place that we were not hoping it would be?
“I will take our bathing suits and towels!”, I say, still hoping that we would find our paradise. When we walk up the stairs we see the remnants of the sanatorium, which our now used as cow and chicken sheds. And when we walk further we meet some of the people that live in the huge unmaintained Soviet style apartment block. With gestures we try to explain what we are looking for: we make movements like we are swimming or bathing – and in the end they point in the direction of the scrap heap again… Disappointed we walk down to our bus. Maybe we should accept that we can’t find it.. But it looked so good on our map!'
The quest continues with little success.
And so does this finish our final entry on Sascha's entries on Georgia. Certainly a lot to discover.
