Wednesday, June 29, 2016

The sailor and the soak


Skinopi bay, directly north of the port town of Adamas (Adamantas) on the island of Milos (yes, Greece), has a reputation for thermality. 
But whether or not this is real remains to be seen.

The reputation is disclosed on the official tourism website of Milos which has this limited info on the supposed hot springs of Skinopi:
'-          Skinopi
Temperature: up to 41 C
Composition: alipiges (hot springs)'
Alipiges refers from Greek as a saline / salty source. 
But this is about all the info that's available on the bay of Skinopi's thermal reputation; all other references a copy of above. So not much to go by.

Still one never knows.
Skinopi certainly is not a heavily visited place, even though it's only 10 minutes from Adamas. The main reason for not going may well be the access road: a narrow windy and at times dirt road weaves itself up the hill from Adamas and once beyond the mount crashes down to Skinopi.

At the end of the road on the bay, there's a house to the south, and a number of sirmata to the north. 
Sirmata are small structures with a living upstairs and a boathouse downstairs. At least in the old days. Nowadays they are fashionable tourist villa's. Though that wasn't the case here.

The bay of Skinopi looking northwards, to a number of sirmata, sheltered from northern winds.

After parking the car and looking around, it didn't look like we will be seeing any soaking action. Based on my research and the lack of any facilities / hints. 

We decide to shift the search northwards, if not for the thermal opportunities at least for observing the quaint fishermans houses.

Cats
There's one other person on the bay and by the noise he's making one would believe there to be many others. But once we draw closer we realize that his chatter is meant for his cats. 

The older and getting bald man greets us heartily, asks us from where we are, apologizes for the ruckus with the cats and then shows us that the cats respond well to his chatter as on command one of them jumps into his arms.


With little prompting he sets off explaining how, as a sailor, he crossed the many seas only to retire after 35 years of service. He then took up fishing in the Aegean, but has now really retired on his own at his little sirmata. 
"Sometimes I go fishing"
he says, pointing to his tiny dinghy, 
"I catch a few fish for myself. And the rest for the cats". 
Life could be hard. And lonely. But he seemed very content with how things turned out.
"You know, I have lived my life".
Bubbles
Having said that, I disclose my reason for visiting his part of the world. 
"Ah yes. Look". 
He points to a place in the water just a meter away.
"Where there are bubbles, there is hot water". 
I place my foot over the bubbles and indeed the water is markedly warmer.  

 

He continues
"Sometimes, the bubbles are much more lively. At night I hear them from inside my house!"
But not today. The last house south, he notes, has a source inside. There's no outflow, but the owners have a tub which they fill from the source. 
"And you see the rock at the end of the bay?"
He points southwards. 
"Behind that rock is another source, in sea, between two rocks. A nice bath. But very difficult to get there. Only with a boat".
I'll take his word for it, but make a mental note to search for this. Later maybe.

After a little more small talk we thank our Skinopi host profusely and see if it's possible to get our rental Fiat Panda back up the hill
Though we also take the opportunity to wander around the vacant house to the south: no thermal source to be seen from the outside.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

New kid on the block

ohemsarahgee at Talknafjordur:
When it's a rainy day and you've got the hot spring to yourself #iceland #hotspring #talknafjordur #heavenonearth #mountainbabes
In honour of Iceland's advance to the Euro football elite, a compilation of some of the best Icelandic soaks and or soaking conditions. Likewise stamped Euro elite soaks. Are we sitting comfortable?

Then let's begin. Note we have some question marks on locations. 

Oh and there's a new site for all you soakers in Iceland: hotpoticeland.
 
na_walker at Hofell
Pickle pickling in a pot #iceland #hotspring 📷c/o @ianwduncan
ecstatic_existence at Reykjadaur:
Bathing AuNatural with my love in a natural hot river. An amazing experience!
#Iceland #hotriver #reykjadalur #love #travel
_miss.mandy_ unsure ....
 "Actually, the best gift you could have given her was a lifetime of adventures..." 💕 Soaked in a natural hot spring by the ocean today...it was wonderful. 📸: @shaespring

 Breezydidwhatnow at Fosslaug
'A couple from the US was staying in the bnb that night and they had heard of a natural hot spring in the area. Eydis gave them the low down on where it was and they invited me to join them. I agreed and took off with them for a soak. I think I earned it after so many hours of riding! It was a little pool right next to a river with a lovely waterfall close by. The water was hot but amazing. It was nice to sit and visit with strangers and turn them into friends'.
mariekelambrichts at ...hmmm ...
 Relaxing in a hot tub with this amazing view on the sea and the mountains! ✌🏻️ #iceland #ontheroad #hotspring #explore #travel #view #mountains #sea
oytunfolkehogskole, possibly Marteinslaug?
Naturfoto klassen #diggerlaifen i varme kilder på Island 🙌💦😃🇮🇸 📷@vidrblokau #øytun #langtur #naturfoto #island #iceland #naturephotography #photo #nature #friluftsliv #utno #hotsprings 
abbijayne at Nauteyrarpottur 
Tonight we sat in a hot spring. Naked. Drank champagne. And watched the northern lights. Happy 40th. Happy cancer free. Happy freaking life. #inspiredbyiceland #visiticeland #hotsprings #cancerfree #westfjords

marion.wp 
Eyjafjallajökull,06/06/2016 11:54:18 pm
@kayllown at Landbrotalaug
admiring the views from our secret natural hot pool. Pretty sure I had the better view though #toplessinnature #europeanstyle #nudist #ourcamplife #everydayiceland #iceland #wheniniceland #hotsprings #tattoo #tattoogirl #mygirlfriendissmokinghot

hartmanoutdoorphotography at Hvalfjarðarlaug 
Happy Friday! Hope your weekend is peaceful and rejuvenating :) #icelandroadtrip516 hartmanoutdoorphotography-
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#skinnydipping #geothermal #hotpot #iceland #whyiceland #middleodnowhere #inspiredbyiceland #hotspring #icelandwedding #icelandweddingphotographer #icelandweddingplanner #icelandroadtrip #darlingweekend #reykjavik #icelandhotpots #nomad #nomadness #gypsy #alwaysgo #lifeofadventure #mystopover 


isa-jere, could it be Sturlungalaug?
 Péninsule de Reyjkanes, nouvelles sources d'eau chaude sauvages....
icollectplaces at Kerlingarfjöll

fjolasig at Hrunulaug
💅🏼
 
laramunozs at Seljavallalaug 
Being late on our schedule made us be the only ones in this pool between mountains close to Vik, best experience of my life (and the coldest) #reykjavik #vik #iceland #globalworkandtravel
breetashski at Grundarfjördur
My new favorite way to take a warm bath
#hotsprings #iceland #secreticeland #bath #nature #travel #explore #europe