Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Stunned

Another ice adventure right next to a canyon with incredibly blue water. There are still many hidden places like this around our home
Další ledové dobrodružství hned vedle kaňonu s neuvěřitelně modrou vodou. Kolem našeho domova je stále mnoho skrytých míst jako je toto
An Icelandic themed entry. 
Where shall we start? Topical I hear you say.

New on the block? Inspired by Iceland (Aug. 9): 
'Welcome to Hvammsvík - Nature Resort & Hot Springs, a newly opened nature resort located in the middle of Hvalfjörður in Visit West Iceland, which is only 45 minutes drive from Reykjavik. This stunning resort offers eight natural hot springs situated along the shoreline, allowing guests to enjoy this magnificent view of the ocean and the surrounding mountains  #inspiredbyiceland'
From the Hvammsvík website:
'Eight natural hot springs that evolve into the ocean; temperatures range from ocean temperatures (around 10°C) to 42°C in the old original hot spring'.
Google has 44 reviews, all but one are 5 star reviews. While Tripadvisor's 18 reviews come to 5 stars as well. Consistency across the board.
The price? Slightly more than 50 euros!

Travel and Leisure (Sep. 14) also mention the Hvammsvík hot springs:
'There’s now a new way to experience the Icelandic waters at the recently opened Hvammsvík Hot Springs. Located in ​​Hvalfjörður, just about an hour northeast of Reykjavik, the 1,200-acre family-owned estate is home to eight hot springs that pull from the property’s own geothermal source 4,593 feet underground'.
If you google Hvammsvík, you will receive a great number of hits concerning a recent soaking experience. Do note that some seem not to have headed out there at all it seems. For instance Thetravel.com (Sep. 22) went to experience Hvammsvík. At least that's what the article implies. Reality: I don't think so. Why then leave this impression? The place must have a good PR person.

Despidiéndome de Islandia con el viaje en grupo por la isla😍
Pedazo de foto que me ha hecho @mari_jose_aranguren en @hvammsvik
Actually looking at the many current photos and one such as above, I do believe it does look similar to what may have been in the past: a free hot spring.
Proof? Reykjavik Grapevine (Dec. 29, 2012) has a list of hot springs in south Iceland. It also has geo details of what they note as Hvalfjarðarlaug hot spring:
'This pool is in Hvalfjörður near Hvammsvík. Driving along route 1 from Reykjavik, turn right on road 47. Follow this road until you can turn left near Hvammsvik'.
The GPS numbers used in the article are also identical to those of the new resort ...
Then there are a couple of Iceland Monitor articles. Nov. 25, 2019:
'There are plans to build sea baths in Hvammsvík cove in Hvalfjörður fjord, West Iceland - a 40-minute drive from Reykjavík. The plans, which require changes to the current land-use, have been posted by the Kjósarhreppur district, Morgunblaðið reports.
...
The sea baths are to be located at the site of the cove’s natural pool. A parking lot for 50 cars is planned, in addition to parking spots for 2-3 buses. The service building will measure 500 m2 (5,400 sq ft). Efforts will be made to use Icelandic material and Icelandic art as much as possible for the project. All the pools will be built of stones from the beach or the vicinity'.
So much for the neighbourhood. Then Sep 17, 2021:
'Further development of a recreational area and sea baths in Hvammsvík cove in Hvalfjörður fjord, West Iceland, will be partly financed with proceeds from the sale of 30 lots in the area, Morgunblaðið reports.
Hvammsvík, located only a 40-minute drive north of Reykjavík, was purchased in 2011 by former WOW Air CEO Skúli Mogensen'.
So the hot spring hype continues, another free accessible hot spring to be off-listed ...

Connect
But is Hvammsvík something for you? I don't have the foggiest. Nowadays, there is literally too much info out there, making a choice of hot pots is mind-blowing. Unless you decide to visit them all.

But maybe there's a shortcut. The Iceland Hot Pot Guide, a recent (?, Sep. 13 updated) app on Android:
'Iceland Hot Pot Guide - app with all hot springs and pools over the Iceland'.
Quite a few of the most popular hot springs and hot pools from near Reykjavik are included, this info for free. Want more? For (just) €5,49 they claim info on 160 hot springs / pools on the island. 
Roughly 1000 downloads of the app currently, no reviews however on the app itself? 
I must say it looks pretty slick, it might be a good alternative to other websites or guidebooks, though the former of course require no wifi ...

Directly in competition is the EpicIceland list of all hot springs:
'Enjoy our unique and detailed list of all Icelandic hot springs! Currently 59 hot springs. Note: the page is still a “work in progress” and we are adding new and new info every day. If you think some info should be updated, feel free to contact us! Also, please, if you know of any hot spring not listed here, let us know and we will give you all the credit for that one! 
Comes with some descriptions and an interactive map!

Then there are a couple of websites which deem themselves invaluable when concerning soaking info.
Reykjavik Excursions (Aug. 9) has a guide to hot springs and geothermal pools in Iceland. Mostly though of the constructed variety.

With this in mind, Tosomeplacenew informs of the alternatives to the Blue Lagoon (Jun. 3). They list 23 alternatives:
'We have been to the Blue Lagoon twice, and although quite liked it (but have a new favorite now), we do understand many don’t wish to visit this hot pool.
When we spoke to travelers, these are some of the reasons they shared:
Too expensive (it is expensive as compared to some of the other geothermal pools listed in this guide)
Too crowded (it is not super crowded at the pool as the lagoon is big enough to accommodate a large crowd and tickets are time-stamped)
Difficult to find a time slot that works for your itinerary (we have been there. Because the Blue Lagoon is located near the airport it is suggested that people visit before flying in and out of the country, and sometimes tickets are sold out in advance!)
Too popular (and you want to visit something offbeat)'.
Readers might be interested in this small soaking side note (and in itself quite a step in noting how mainstream soaking has become).  IcelandMonitor (Nov. 14):
'The board of directors of the Blue Lagoon has made a decision to begin preparing for the registration of the company on the Nasdaq Iceland Main Market'.
Anyroad. Hey Iceland (Nov. 11) has compiled an overview of possibly 30 soaks. The intro is catchy:
'Hot tubs and natural hot springs have been a part of Iceland's culture since the settlement era. The love for swimming and bathing is engraved in our DNA. For centuries we have known the health benefits of bathing in the oh-so-wonderful warm mineral water and de-stressing and relaxing every muscle in your body after a hard day at work. Almost all Icelandic swimming pools are geothermally heated so they are warm and cosy all year round. Most of the facilities also sport a hot tub or two. Swimming pools are even considered one of the most important places to socialize, work out and unwind'.
A very varied overview
Campervaniceland (Aug. 12) has their own overview of course:
'Iceland is notorious [not] for its natural hot springs all over the island, and one of the things visitors love to do is sit in the warm water and watch over the chilly, majestic Iceland landscape. In this article, we reveal which Iceland hot springs are worth a dip during your next visit'.
One of their of what is to believed to be the benefits of a soak on Iceland:
'Feeling Connected
This is an interesting benefit that we all discovered first-hand during the Covid pandemic. We all have an incredible need to feel connected with one another (no matter how big of an introvert you think you are). And you don’t need to stock up on your social engagements to do so – even just being around people will give you that connected feeling and lift your spirits. All over the world community baths have served that purpose all over the world and the Iceland thermal baths are no different'.
With a best of springs and a best of pools.

Heading more locally, Beyondthemoments (Jun. 9) has a best secret hot springs of Southern Iceland. It actually means just one (secret) and goes at lengths to reveal the secret which results in quite a lot of feedback from other tourists who have consequently done likewise rendering the secret quite useless.

Less of a secret (depending on your definition I suppose), but yes south Iceland. And that all important connection feeling:

from one of our magical @twimclabel expeditions in Ísland. blistering cold, sea sickness and salt. just like home. looking forward to our next adventure ❄️
Fear
And then we delve into Icelandic soaking culture. 
First up a recent (Sep. 22) lengthy Reykjavik Grapevine article on the most controversial soaking related habit of Icelandic pools:
'Many tourists in Iceland try to avoid bathing before going to swimming pools, reports Fréttablaðið. The staff at the swimming pools say that the problem is a fear of being watched.
...
They all say that there are no special penalties for not taking a shower without a swimsuit before going to the pool.
“This is a problem and has always been a problem,” says Aðalheiður. “We’ve done what we can to avoid this, for example, by being in the changing rooms during the busiest times,” she adds.
Visitors to Vök Baths who book in advance receive a video sent by email 24 hours before arriving at the pool, where the local rules are reviewed, including the fact that everyone must take a shower.
...
Elín, Karen and Brá agree that there is nothing to fear, even if one and all go to the pool without bathing. The pool’s chlorine level increases in line with its dirtiness.
“We also use this to get people to shower, saying that the more people who don’t, the more chlorine there will be in the water,” says Karen.
In Vök Baths, things are different because there is no chlorine in the water but a continuous flow.
...
“Most people take a shower, but the question is always whether people wash properly or take off their swimsuits, but we also have a changing room where people can take off their swimsuits privately and we just have to trust that people take off,” says Elín
“It varies depending on the nationality, but most people have a fear of being seen naked in common that’s why they avoid showering naked,” adds Elín'.

Is this really such a contentious issue?
Yes, delve a little deeper in the web and you'll hardly believe what you will find.
Dangerousbusiness has updated (Sep. 12) its 10 essential tips for visiting Icelandic hot springs:

'7. You have to shower – naked
There's no naked bathing at any of the organized hot springs in Iceland, though. 
Speaking of showering, you're expected to do it – sans swimsuit – before getting into any pool or hot tub in Iceland. There are signs all over every locker room, and sometimes locker room attendants around to remind you, too.
In some cases, there may be one private changing room, or a few shower stalls with doors in each locker room. But in most cases there's just one large open shower area that everyone is expected to use.
I know this part is often shocking and uncomfortable for some American women (I get it; naked people in locker rooms wasn't normal where I grew up either), but it's quite normal in Europe. It's very likely (in fact, I'd say it's guaranteed) that there will be women walking around in the locker room naked – and the same is true in the men's locker room.
Don't stress about it if there's no private area to shower. Avert your eyes if you want, shower quickly, put on your swimsuit, and then move on'.

Is showering not naked in Iceland a taboo? Apparently:

ICELAND 🇮🇸
Don't enter geothermal baths without having a shower before.
#dondoo #discover #interestingfacts #aroundtheworld #travel #trip #iceland #island #icelandtrip #icelandroadtrip #geothermalbath #baths #shower #icelandthermalbaths #naturalbath #thermalbaths #perfectnature #exploreiceland
Then again they miss the naked part ...
On Reddit/visitingIceland there's even a recent (3 months old) posting concerning the showering possibilities at most of the paid soaking places:
'I am a very modest and self-conscious person, so one thing I was worried about is if any of the baths would offer private showering areas- so I will list that as well in my review of each place in case it helps anyone else'.
Well, that might just be a lifesaver for the more prudish soakers, possibly a sign how soaking culture is moving forward (or dare I say backwards ...).
Again a good comments section; comments sections usually never cease to be boring, often better than the article / question itself.

But we are not there yet. 
Things can get even weirder (in my eyes). Again Reddit (maybe I should ignore this as a reputable source of info), a month ago:
'I am a 24 year old girl , currently in Reykjavik and I want to go to a outside pool such as Blue Lagoon which I heard it is a turist trap.
In others pool I heard there is a communal shower thing I need to have completely naked. I am not used to this. My concern is if it is okay to wear nipple coverings so I will not get fully exposed.
Do you think I will stand out as weird by doing that?'
The answer by nearly all respondents was yes.

A sight for my sore eyes:

Islandia Dzień 4 🧡 Pamiętajcie, że rzeka jest gorąca u góry. Na dole pizga. #iceland #reykjadalur #reykjadalurhotsprings #hotsprings #icelandhotsprings #rangarbingeystra #polishgirls #travelphotography #traveltheworld #travelgram #icelandroadtrip #icelandtravel #icelandadventure #icelandnature #icelandphotography













Luckily for the counterbalance, there's this from What a shame Mary Jane, a recent (Nov. 7) vlog. The author heads out to an underground hot spring (now that's a secret) which all genders enjoy naked. Why not?
This brings Mary Jane to discuss why we are so hung up on non-nudity. It's all thrown at us on a daily basis: naked equates sex, such is what advertising firms want us to believe. But of course it's not she discovers. And prefers.


More or less on the same subject. But a less recent find. Urvor (Mar. 17, 2020) has a post called Getting Naked. In the article author Ellen Wild reflects on the role the (mostly) geothermally fed swimming pools are playing both in city life as well as in Icelandic village life (the feeling connected maybe?). And how the author shuns swimming pools outside of Iceland but embraces these when on sojourn on the island:
'It doesn’t matter how small or remote the village, it will have a swimming pool. The origin of this social meeting habit lies in those amazing hot springs lying around in the Icelandic nature. It is the middle way between two Icelandic extremes, the weather and the searing hot volcanic activity. Now and then you find that sweet spot that is a hot spring with just the right temperature.
But what I love the most about this swimming pool culture is maybe not the pools in and of itself. It is the culture of body neutrality that is a direct consequence of it. The male and female dressing rooms are open and communal. The shower is also open and communal. On top of that, everyone is required to shower and wash thoroughly before entering the pool. Naked. Considering the frequency Icelandic people go to the pool, it means that they see each other naked a lot. Mother and daughter. Grandson and grandfather. Nieces. Schoolchildren and their teacher. Friends. They grew up with this being a normality. There is no shame. A body is a body, without any unnecessary connotation.
I love the confrontation this brings to tourists. A confrontation that hopefully makes them question their own belief systems and the cultural habits of their upbringing. There is no need to have shame for oneself. And a good starting point to practice this is with your own body.
The discomfort that is brought to said tourists is forcing them to come out of their comfort zone and face oneself. It is something to contemplate while enjoying the warm water. This is the personal growth that comes with a visit to an Icelandic swimming pool.
So, once in a while, skip a psychology session, come to Iceland and get naked'.
Right. Or not?

For the sheer amount of geothermal in Iceland, naturism is frowned upon... we've only had the chance a couple of times.
Then on the opposite scale: a couple which fund their travelling by selling pictures of themselves clothesless. Yahoo (Sep. 7) note that their travails also include Iceland. A Patreon account -no less- for proof.

Finally for something totally different.
A swim-in cinema?
'SWIM-IN SCREENINGS
RIFFs popular SWIM-IN CINEMA took place in the pool of Sundhöll Reykjavíkur'.
Better views are to be had outside:

#thelittlethings #naturelovers #sunfollower

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