Combo

sophie_deschanelles

ALL THE HOT TUBS ARE BELONG TO US!!!

But seriously, I wasn't planning to get into a single pool during our trip and didn't even take swimwear ,but I got a combo of one each night! (sometimes 2 and sometimes in the morning hehe). Didn't risk going down the 2 cave hot springs we found in pitch darkness, though I did dip a toe in one of them, so I suppose that counts.

Thank you @theanswerisrpm for supporting me on my crazy endeavors and even pushing me forward when I feel like chickening out

#hotsprings #laugur #ísland #iceland #roadtrip #adventure #nightphotography #auroraborealis #naturalhotsprings #venividivici

There's not much current affairs for the Icelandic soakers.

Only Reykjavik Grapevine (Jul. 19) has something recent: an article concerning a bath wear incident at the new Sky Lagoon. The complainant notes that the actions applied contradict Icelands law:

'Visir reports that Diljá Sigurðardóttir and her boyfriend paid a visit to Sky Lagoon last Saturday to celebrate their anniversary. As she frequently swims topless, and has done so for the past five years, she intended to do the same at Sky Lagoon, but took caution and read the spa’s rules of conduct first. Nowhere did it mention any requirement for covering one’s breasts while there; only that a swimsuit is required, which she wore.

Despite this, shortly after they were in the lagoon, an employee approached the couple and told Diljá that she needed to wear a bikini top. She refused, and so the employee retrieved a manager, who repeated the order, explaining that “people of different cultures” use the facility, or she would otherwise be escorted out of the lagoon. Diljá opted to leave voluntarily.

An update was added:

'Sky Lagoon has now decided that they will allow topless bathing for all guests, regardless of gender. Dagný Pétursdóttir, the managing director of Sky Lagoon, thanked the guest in question for pointing out the legal framework'.

And while on the costume subject, there's this experience by Hihostels who shares (Jul. 2) :

'It made sense that Icelanders would be so comfortable in their own skin that nudity among the same sex wouldn’t be a big deal. For the locals, showering while naked in communal, gender-segregated changing rooms was a routine, everyday matter.

Not for me.

...

As soon as the warm water ran down my hair and back, I closed my eyes and began to relax. The soothing force of the water drowned out the voice in my head that told me I needed to be ashamed of my body. Taking my time, I thoroughly scrubbed myself clean.

I can’t explain why or how, but it began to feel like the most natural thing in the world. The other bodies around me didn’t matter. Though there were no curtains separating us, it didn’t feel like we were in each other’s spaces. I turned off the shower, wiped myself dry and put on my bathing suit with no particular urgency'.

It's actually quite a readable account, she then continues with this subject and her experience in Sweden. Sorry a bit off-track:

'As the skies turned rosy, Katharina, one of our two local guides, suggested that we relax in the sauna before dinner in a few hours. “You know, it’s an important part of Swedish culture, and the sauna has an amazing view,” she said, “We have some beers to share,” she added with a wink. While some in the group wore bathing suits, this time, I decided to follow the example of the Swedes. Was I really over feeling ashamed of my body? It was time to find out.

Sweeping aside the initial, tiny bit of hesitation, I got naked, showered, then wrapped a towel around myself, and stepped into the sauna. Inside, a panoramic window overlooked Lake Langas, a pretty expanse of blue surrounded by slopes bursting with bright reds, oranges and yellows.

We passed around bottles of beer, shared life stories and laughed until the tears came. “The bond of the sauna,” someone said. With my towel now spread out below me on the bench, I realized how comfortable I felt in just my skin—love handles, bulging belly, body hair, stretch marks and all. I closed my eyes for a few minutes and felt the sweat trickle down my skin, happy, empowered and grateful for the long way I’d come'.

ellithor

Hot spring days ... @sparklejensen

Now back on track please. TotalIceland (Oct. 26) notes

'It seems the age old custom of bathing and enjoying a swim in anything other than your bare skin has in just ten years given way to horrible looking Speedo´s and various forms of hideous designer bathing suits.

You can no longer bathe naked anywhere here without difficulty; loud screams from Japanese tourists and constant pointing and whispering among people from the United States. And some fancy places as the very expensive Blue Lagoon or Fontana steam baths in Laugarvatn explicitly forbid any kind of nudity.

This is a shame indeed and entirely the fault of the growing number of foreign tourists making demands about civility'.

Blame the foreigners, though there might be some truth in this (see first reference in this blog). Overall it seems societies are becoming more squeamish with how we look like. Thanks also to the so-called social media which enables a body-shaming culture with reference to the north american context. Anything out of this context needs to be tackled so it seems.

The post does note that the further you are away from the tourist trail, the more acceptable your birthday suit practice becomes.

Milky
Looking at what else has been published, let's focus on the more personal accounts.

Two Wandering Soles (Oct. 13) looked at cost cutting while visiting in Iceland. They have an insane amount of suggestions, but at no. 35 comes:

'Bathe where the locals do

...

Simply type “hot spring” into Google Maps and you’ll be astounded at how many there are around the country. With a bit of digging, you’ll surely have a long list of free hot springs around the country that fit into your itinerary'.

Viola and the world (Mar. 7, 2020):

Szybka kąpiel w studzience

Tym razem na pierwszy ogień poszedł mój towarzysz. Ja byłam jeszcze zbyt zajęta badaniem sytuacji. Przerażało mnie zimno, ale też nieznana głębokość tej siarkowej studni. No i oczywiście wyobraźnia podpowiadała mi, że w takiej dziurze mogą skrywać się najdziwniejsze rzeczy, które wciągną mnie w dół. Tak więc badanie terenu pozostawiłam partnerowi, który był po prostu odważniejszy.

Ale niebezpieczeństw nie było. Pozostało mi tylko uporać się z myślami, które już same zmieniały mnie w kostki lodu.

Nie chciałam się jednak im poddać. Zmotywowana wszystkimi filmikami przekonujących zwykłych śmiertelników o tym, że wszystko jest możliwe dzięki sile myśli, próbowałam skierować moje na właściwy tor. I chyba zaczęło działać, bo gdy partner wyszedł z wody i uporał się z ubieraniem, ja w mgnieniu oka weszłam do studzienki. Choć z rozbieraniem poszło nawet nieźle, to o zakładaniu stroju kąpielowego, który mieliśmy przy sobie, nie było mowy. Zresztą panowała taka ciemność, że szkoda byłoby nie skorzystać, z tych kilku minut nieskrępowanej niczym wolności. W wodzie, mimo niewysokiej temperatury, było nawet przyjemnie.

Nawet udało się zrobić kilka zdjęć. A po nich przyszedł czas na najgorsze. Wyjście! To była prawdziwa tortura. Usiadłam na zamarzniętym ręczniku, a drugim równie sztywnym próbowałam powierzchownie otrzeć moje ciało.

WakeupReykjavik notes in a what's to do in November post (Oct. 12):

'Go on a hot spring adventure

...

November is the perfect time to go on a natural hot spring hunt and you also have high chances of catching glimpses of them northern lights while in the water!'

Beyondthemoments (Sep. 16) visits Seljavallalaug and gives hints concerning other pools nearby. Shallow though, but hotter.

bellaskova

What a treasure. I still can't believe we actually found this place. When I leave Iceland, this is the one place that I will never forget. Discovered out of pure luck, we found a natural pool in the middle of no where--with this view. After every few hours we contemplated getting out but it was so incredibly difficult to leave this place. Somehow we managed to gather 8 hours in this hot springs and I don't regret a second of it. 

Marinatravel (Aug 17) has a good overview of the hot springs of the Westfjords:

'Hot springs can be found all over Iceland and most of them have a perfect temperature for diving in and relaxing. Also, they are well maintained and for some of the people built facilities like showers and changing rooms. You will find many hot springs in the Westfjords in western Iceland with breathtaking views over the fjords. Not many people know about those hot springs as they are quite hidden from the tourist’s eye and are located in remote areas. But that doesn’t mean you cannot go there and relax your mind and body in a quiet place'.

Bubble.com has a Top 10 of Icelandic hot springs you must visit:

'No hot spring list would be complete without the addition of a swimming hole inside an actual volcano crater. Askja is a central highland favorite near the Dyngjufjöll mountains

...

To reach the crater, you’ll find yourself trekking through places of year-round snow, colorful lava fields, and many geological reminders of how alive the earth underneath your feet once was, and still may be.

Wondrous though these sights are, they pale in comparison to the milky blue lake at the bottom of the caldera. If the weather is fair, you can attempt the path down into the crater to bathe in the 24°C sulfuric waters. There are no facilities out here, so don’t forget your towels!

Though Askja sleeps for now, you can spin and float in her opaque teal waters and know that she yet lives, bubbling away far under the earth. A swim truly unlike any other'.

moreal

Lake Viti, Askja. Iceland. You win again Earth. Don’t give up on us.

Strict

Then on to the international press, there's been quite a bit of attention been brought to Iceland.

No less than for instance Vogue (Oct. 20) have published an overview on Icelandic swimming pools.

'This is a bathing culture unlike any other. There are a host of unspoken intricacies, rituals, and specific rules around hygiene and etiquette, which is refreshingly strict around shoe removal, use of electronic devices, and a soapy shower sans swimsuit prior to entering the water'.

Pretentious?

Washington Post (Aug. 19) has a very readable article. A snippet:

'Near my riverside camp spot in Heydalur, a Westfjords farm with a campground, cabins, riding stables and restaurant, water gushed from below ground into steaming tubs just outside a greenhouse. Inside, fruit trees overhung a small, warm pool; saddles and bridles stored nearby gave the humid room a pleasantly horsy smell.

In the 12th century, Bishop Gudmundur Arason had blessed these hot springs, said Stella Gudmundsdottir, Heydalur’s tiny, white-haired matriarch. “He was blessing everything, really — cliffs, ponds, whatever,” Gudmundsdottir said. “But he blessed the hot pool, too, so people believed it was holy.”

After dinner and a swim in the greenhouse, I walked across a shallow river and flower-filled meadow to a simple hot spring ringed by stones. Blossoms bobbled on thin stalks at the edge of the possibly holy pool. I floated with eyes closed against the midnight sun'.

Salon Privé Magazine (Oct.) has 4 amazing hot springs in Iceland to visit.

Travel and Leisure (Nov. 6) has 7 of the best hot springs in Iceland. Most of course fee paying, but also including Seljavallalaug:

'Don't let Seljavallalaug's low-frills digs fool you — this pool in southern Iceland is one of the area's most calming natural gems. At 30 by 82 feet, Seljavallalaug is among the country's largest swimming pools. It's free and open to the public, but unlike most hot springs, it's a swim-at-your-own-risk kind of place. Seljavallalaug is not regularly cleaned, and therefore, algae can accumulate. It also has no lifeguards or facilities — and for many, that's the draw. The location, tucked between mountains on the rugged southern coast, promises dramatic mountain-meets-ocean scenery'.

Lastly, National Geographic (Aug 17):

'While the Blue Lagoon, just outside Reykjavík, is world-famous for its warm, milky waters, you'll find plenty more idyllic swimming spots around the country, from a modern spa with a swim-up bar to remote hot springs reached via a countryside hike'.

gummoli

@yarahelviti and I taking out morning bath in warm geothermal pool

Warned

espacios_naturistas

Aguas sulfurosas saliendo de las rocas a 60 grados hacen que te puedas bañar en el río en cualquier época del año. Vaya un descubrimiento.Fotografía de @carlos290483

As the pandemic worries extend into a second European winter season, the past few months have not been very kind to the last remnants of our free and wild soaks. No need to remind you all, just look at the posts of the last couple of months.

However there is still more developments to share.

If you paid attention the last few weeks, most of the poor news came from France. Particularly the destruction of the Source Felix Croizat (b.t.w. here's a website with more historical background).  

Though there is also hope here. Apparently the local government that tore out the pools earlier this year, has now decided on an alternative plan which would see new construction of pools, but this time fenced, so at nighttime it can be locked. There is though doubt. The source itself sits within a no-construction / destruction natural zone with international status. 

In the meantime yet another makeshift pool has been composed by concerned locals. Keep on soaking.

In the overall discussion concerning this hot spring, I did come across this info on another free hot spring not too far away from above mentioned: Chateauneuf-les-Bains (Auvergne). 

Not really soakable, it does have a shallow basin in a public park. With temperature of 34-35°C. As can be expected, the majority of the two sources are syphoned off to the local thermal complex as well as to a bottling plant. This is where I delved the above info from.

Then to Austria. Europe's only natural and free and seasonal hot spring is likewise also under threat. Measures in the valley to protect flooding are rumoured to affect seasonal flows. A Change.org petition has been up and running hoping to ensure the seasonal hot spring will not go under as local authorities will see the light.

The soaking and wild swimming culture are very similar; though soaking has less opportunities whereas wild swimming is trending towards compulsive swimming rather than spiritual solace. 

But anyway. 

The Guardian reports (Aug. 26) on belated action concerning fertilizer run-off (a continent wide problem), but in this case Spain. And only after many fish in the Mar Menor (Murcia) wound up dead. Besides swimming the Mar Menor also offers excellent mud baths. However:

'Ecologists have warned for years that life in the lagoon is being suffocated by decades of nitrate-laden runoffs, mostly from agriculture, that trigger vast algae blooms – described as extreme eutrophication – that deplete the water of oxygen.
Wednesday’s ban on the use of inorganic nitrogen fertilisers within 1.5km of the lagoon was welcomed by ecologists, who have spent years calling for action. “We think it’s a good step but it comes very late,” said Sallent.
He called on the regional and central government to take urgent action, such as curbing the intensive agricultural practices of the area and creating wetlands around the lagoon that could act as “green filters”. Failure to do so risks incidents similar to that of the past week becoming more frequent.
“It’s unfortunate. This was a jewel, a singular site that at one point could have been a national park,” he said. “But instead, in the 1970s and 1980s, it bet on aggressive urban development and later intensive agriculture that was also very aggressive. They prioritised these economic sectors and they forgot the environment.”

It's odd that protecting the environment always ends up playing second fiddle to economic plundering. How long can we still use our natural waters?

Perceptions
Thus we come to the now-for-something-different section. And hopefully not too far away from the soaking culture.

Last year, Oslo's art and event center (SALT; complete with sauna) had an exhibition named Sweat. Translated:

'The artist behind the latest art installation at Salt is Mikkel Aaland (b. 1952), a San Francisco-based photographer, filmmaker and artist. In collaboration between Aaland and SALT, we have hung up more than a hundred different towels in the Arctic Pyramid.
Sauna enthusiasts from all over the world have contributed towels, personalized them with art, words and their actual sweat to our celebration of the world's well-being. Along with towels from countries such as Turkey, Japan, Italy, Australia, Russia and Mexico, Aaland's own towels with printed photographs from his world visit are also in search of the perfect sweat. Each towel represents a moment when someone leaves the stress of modern times behind and prioritizes health and well-being. Contrary to the contemporary perception of sweat, it has had magical connotations for traditional societies'.

I believe in the past (March 2018) I may have referred to Irish sweathouses. Very recently BBC has an article (Oct. 18) on these:

'Malone [Leitrim County Council Heritage Officer Sarah Malone] their aim was to identify and demystify these timeworn structures, which are scattered across Ireland and were used as a sort of extreme stone sauna from the early 1600s to the early 1900s. She said they had so far recorded more than 100 sweathouses in Leitrim alone – more than anywhere else in Ireland, and a staggering concentration given that this tiny Greater London-sized county is home to fewer than 35,000 people'.

Out of faith for quite some time (150+ years?) these were mainly built and maintained in areas with poor access to health facilities / know-how. They are believed to have come into existence organically and rely on raised atmospheric temperature to induce a sweat which assists in improving blood circulation and filtering out toxins (as the article states).

Lonely Planet also has an article (Sep. 9) on Europe's Best hot springs. Pretty much drawn up from all over Europe, there are just 1 or 2 free soaks to be had on the list; many though require splashing the cash.

Travel Tomorrow (Sep. 29, 2020) has 5 naturist-friendly thermal spas in Europe:

In many European countries, nudity inside spas is the rule and not the exception. Of course, you can wrap yourself in a towel or wear a robe when walking around, but you’re not allowed to wear any kind of swimming suite. So forget your swimwear and jump into one of these naturist thermal spas!

Note that what they don't mention is that these natural thermal spas are not so thermal; some of them  don't even have any access to natural waters!

tumimii

Dulces termas☺

#trip #happy #amazing #nature #hotsprings #termas [] #spain #backpacker #mountains #lake #water #picoftheday #naked #beautiful #lovetotravel #aragon #goodvibes #therapy 

While we are heading down this lane, I might as well bring up an article (Jan. 13) by the excellent Nakedwanderings bloggers concerning etiquette at Europe's spa's:

'Many naturists take their first steps into social nudity at the nude beach. But in parts of western Europe, another phenomenon is quickly becoming the new number one place where people get naked with strangers for the first time. Or even with friends. Especially in countries like Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands, the wellness or spa center has proven to be a great stepping stone for naturism.

Of course, these countries are not particularly known for having year-round great weather and perfect nude beach days are rather limited. Spa centers, on the other hand, are great to visit on a rainy day. With lots of indoor facilities to keep you warm. And even on sunny days, the outside pools are refreshing and the garden is excellent for working on your tan without sand crawling into places where it’s not supposed to be'.

It does need to be noted that the sauna culture works often contradictory to the general (beach) culture. For instance, all spa's in France are very much clothed de rigueur.

Another snippet from the article:

'Ever seen a very upset naked European? Try leaving the door of the sauna open after you exit. It takes a while to heat these things up, so warmth is very precious. If you hear someone yelling “this is not a church!”, it means that you didn’t close the door fast enough'.

Busted
The culture shock area. 

Germany's sauna culture once again dishes up a haunting experience. Wanderinggermany (Sep. 8):

The little board stated nonchalantly that I was entering a naked German sauna- no exceptions! It was nude or bust (no pun intended). As I glanced down at the sign and then timidly back up to the Saunahof, it was as if being naked in the sauna was absolutely no big deal to everyone wandering around inside. Apparently, for a sauna in Germany, it wasn’t. But for this little American girl….I wasn’t so sure!

Luckily, I’ve always been a bit hippy footloose and fancy-free. And when it comes to travel, I say, “Hey, when in Rome….well, Germany!”

So, off went the suit and into the German Sauna baths I went!!!

Despite the shreiks and shocks, a good and informative article. 

silvatica__

Giorno 5: bagni silvatici 🌿🛁

 []  #termenaturali #naturelovers #visittuscany #toscananelcuore

Wanderingcarol (Sep. 19) visits the thermal baths of Baden-Baden:

'If you visit Friedrichsbad, you’ll be shedding your aches, and also your clothes. Yes, the Friedrichsbad bath experience is completely without clothes. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it.

...

Today the bath circuit at the Friedrichsbad spa is a 17-step wellness ritual of dry air bathing, steaming, soaking and being pummelled and scrubbed with a brush – all while being very very naked.

It’s a dream of a building. You’ll be sweating amidst richly-painted tiles and a Beaux Arts dome, but clothing is not an option.

And don’t expect to get dressed again for awhile – the complete bathing process takes more than three hours. It also includes views of the opposite sex you might not want to see.

Yes, in addition to being naked at the spa, you’ll have the pleasure of being in mixed company.

...

The lack of restrictive clothing means better circulation for you. And don’t worry, the atmosphere at the Friedrichsbad baths is anything but wild. It’s more like being in a temple dedicated to water.

After all, being nude is all part of the German spa experience, especially in the saunas where clothing is often forbidden. (I should know. I’ve been kicked out for wearing a bathing suit, and learned my lesson fast.)Avoid my mistakes and read my guide on German sauna culture, and while you’re at it, don’t miss these essential rules of sauna safety.

While there’s no escaping nudity at the Friedrichsbad Roman Irish bath, it does elevate a mineral bath into an adventure – maybe that’s why it’s the best-known Baden-Baden spa of all'.

Rachelsruminations looks (Aug.?) at the European soaking society; but that of the late 19th century:

'All over Europe in the 19th century, nobles and royals traveled to European hot springs to “take the waters.” Many of these thermal towns are still spa towns today, and they’ve united as part of the European Historic Thermal Towns Association, (EHTTA) one of the Council of Europe’s Cultural Routes'.

She visits a few German spa's and has more recently published 23 fun facts about Wiesbaden which include 10 about the hot springs of this city.

Revealations

We are now heading into south-eastern Europe.

Lonely Planet (Sep. 20) has put online an article on Budapest's thermal leisure sites:

'Following an unprecedented four-month closure to all of the city’s pools due to COVID-19, Budapest’s thermal baths are now reopen and back in business. Don’t get your towel in a twist deciding where to go, we’ve tried the lot—from the city’s 16th-century Turkish baths to Széchenyi Baths' "Sparty" nights (spa-party, geddit?!!)—and can now reveal all.

Here's the naked truth about Budapest’s thermal baths: Everything you wanted to know (but were too self-conscious to ask)'.

Though it covers many aspects, despite the titillating title and above potential, naturalistic soakers need to heed this:

'Nudity is not permitted in the public areas at any of the thermal baths'.

Ukraine. 10 best hot springs in Transcarpathia (Jun. 26), all very much developed and well visited though.

anastasia_guk15 at Chans - Lumsory (one of the highlighted soaks):

•Feel it and enjoy• ⛰

Kostenurka (Apr. 2) visits the Bulgarian hot springs of Rupite:

'But behind the fence there are thermal lakes in which people sit in the open air. Returning to the car, we moved along the right road to the next parking lot. There is a simple bathing house with swimming pools and recreation areas. Entrance fee is 3 levs (1.5 euros).

And since at the moment all the spas and pools are closed due to a lockdown, everyone is basking in the wild baths. Behind the lakes, there is an unofficial camping site and people in swimsuits and robes constantly come from there.

...

I very carefully dipped my hand into one of the pools - the temperature to the touch was much higher than +40. Like an incredibly hot bath. And people go and go, in bathrobes, in swimsuits from cars and from the camping. They sit down in the lakes, smear themselves with white clay ... Changing rooms and benches are installed near the lakes, everything for comfort even in a "wild" place'.

The excellent World Thermal Springs undertook a recent soaking sojourn to Bulgaria. My admiration to their whirlwind tour: sometimes up to 5 resorts are visited daily. All quite staid though. They also did visit Rupite (Oct. 9).

Getting muddy in Bulgaria. A Danish article (Vesterbroliv, Sep. 27) concerning a visit to Burgas and around. Google's translation is gibberish though. So just a photo then:

More mud to finish off with. Things to do in Kavala (Greek Macedonia)? Midnightblueelephant (Nov. 2020):

'To my utter surprise, the mud bathing [at Krinides] wasn’t done in a bathtub of sorts but in a huge pool of mud. Men and women are separated and there are various grid steps that you can access the pool with, which come in handy getting rid of the big chunks when you leave.

The mud itself feels weird in the best way possible. You float, you move in slow motion and it took me a moment to get over feeling a bit claustrophobic. After a while, I copied the other bathers, held on to a rope, and floated on my back.

THESE LADIES WERE AN ABSOLUTE HOOT. I ASKED FOR PERMISSION TO TAKE SOME PHOTOS, NOT THINKING IT WOULD BE GRANTED BUT THEY LOVED IT AND WOULDN’T STOP POSING'.