Worship

With some trepidition, an entry on a visit to the Merens-les-Vals source chaud, Ariège region of southern France.

Located in a forest above the village, savouring the surroundings alone is worth the visit. 

Drive from nearby Ax (or better still, take a train), park near the highway in Merens-les-Vals and climb up through the village towards the mountains. Roughly 10-15 minutes later, you'll leave the last few houses behind you, enter the forest and 5-10 minutes further you'll arrive at the larger pond which has been created close to the source.

Larger? Maybe 10 persons can sit comfortably; there are about half that when I got there, a couple of larger groups in the process of leaving. Very frequented thus.

I'll not add too much additional info, the natural surroundings are particulary sensitive, though I doubt whether the hordes even regard available warnings on this; they'll certainly act selfishy either way. 

So there's already quite a lot out there on the i-net. 

I'll start with this, which sums up the dilemma. The reference is from earlier this year (Mar. 10) from French language website Actu.fr. It highlights the often negative feedback from visitors. And adds (translated):

"Usage is that the owner tolerates bathing there, but not more than that," qualifies a good connoisseur of the valley. Contacted by Actu.fr , the Tourist Office of the Ariège Pyrenees says it is "no longer authorized to promote the sulphurous springs of Mérens, because they are in fact private."

The article refers to a Facebook posting from March 4 on the page Arièjo! O moun païs, a page dedicated to local info. 

The few photo's result in a litany of comments much in line with: it used to be better, it's totally ruined, blame social media, you should have been there 50 years ago. 

Certainly the simple existance of an easily accesible hot spring is one of nature's highlights, which visitors seek out to experience. It highlights how local businesses promote their nearness to this and internet is certainly not helping. But we are also with a lot more and more people on this globe, with more and more free time, so seeking soaking sollace is bound to increase. And that shouldn't be a problem. The problem comes with the lack of decorum, common sense shown.

Some common sense links then. Tierrassinfronteras has their own posting (in Spanish) on this hot spring (from Dec. 2022), it looks like I'm late to the party, unwanted? A translated snippet: 

'The first recommendation is the most important, this site is quite popular in summer and during festivities. Therefore, if you want to enjoy nature and a moment of relaxation, we strongly recommend visiting the thermal pools very early or very late and avoiding periods of high influx.

The second important thing is: this is a natural and wild space, so you must not leave any rubbish and you must preserve and respect it. If you find something lying on the ground, even if it is not yours, take it with you. Together we will make this corner a more pleasant and beautiful place.

The Mérens les Vals Thermal Baths are a place for body worship and relaxation. Avoid disturbing the atmosphere with unnecessary noise, and preserve the peace and tranquillity that can be felt in this magical natural environment.

Don't be surprised if you come across someone naked, the Mérens les Vals Thermal Pools are frequented by people who practice naturism.

Follow these recommendations and you will enjoy wonderful thermal pools in the Pyrenees'.

Wild Road (French) notes (Mar. 2021) a visit is a worthwhile winter activity for the Ariege region. He adds this (translated):

'A little tip for preserving the place: in order not to damage these natural springs, do not wash yourself in them. Respect the calm of the place and do not move the stones that surround the pools. Leave the place as you found it when you left and remember to take your waste away. These springs are very busy and can unfortunately be damaged due to incivility'.

The excellent Nature et Source Chaude blog has a more recent (Oct. 23, 2023) entry on Merens-les-Vals. If translated (from French) it gives all the info should you need should you be willing to partake the 20 minute uphill walk, from the village itself, through the fields and into the beginning of extensive forests:

'At dawn (I finally went back the next day very early because of the crowds), when I arrive at the site, I see a red frog that quickly blends into nature. Then a magical shiver (as always) occurs when the source of the baths is revealed . The vapors escaping into the air soothe and comfort me. The forest becomes a backdrop.

The layout is basic. Natural bathtubs have been dug into the earth and blocks of stone are used to outline the basins'.

Then there's the vlogs of Hiti (in French). She also hits Merens (Jan. 2021). Follow the link to the vdo. It's mostly about the car trip there though.

The popular review sites aren't too generous, the backlash certainly finding it's way to Tripadvisor which only notes 3 stars (from 56 reviews) with quite a few photo's. A (translated) sample:

'Thi B

Beautiful but very busy (Aug. 2023)

Nice hike to do. A little difficult for young people (steep and uneven path; steep climb; multiple puddles and rocks in the middle of the path). Allow 15/20 minutes (with young children).

Very busy area so lots of people in the water. Not to mention the lack of manners of the visitors. Too bad (but not surprising)'.

Google only 2.5 stars from 6 reviews.

My own consideration: an eight, though heavily influenced by the lull in visitors.

4_enautocaravana

🌀 Baños naturales sulforosos - Mérens-Lès-Vals (Francia)

Hoy hemos disfrutado de un relajante baño caliente en medio del bosque y rodeados de naturaleza. El agua caliente y sulfurosa y el silencio del lugar nos ha renovado. Ha sido fantástico.

🧭 Des de la iglesia románica de St-Pierre hay que seguir el sendero marcado del GR-10 (marcas rojas y blancas). La poza queda justo al lado del sendero, el olor a huevos podridos del azufre la delata.

🥾 Llevad calzado adecuado, el sendero está empedrado.

⏳ 15min (menos de 1km) des de la iglesia de St Pierre

🌡️ El agua sulfurosa emerge a una temperatura de unos 40°C, muy agradables en esta época del año.

🎟️ entrada libre, pero es un entorno natural, porfavor 🙏🏻 sead respetuosos con el entorno y dejadlo como si jamás hubierais pasado por allí

⌚️ Nosotros hemos ido hacia medio dia y hemos estado practicamente solos. Pero al irnos llegaba bastante gente. Es una poza pequeña.

🅿️ Para AC gratuito a 30min (1,8km) de las termas (N 42° 39' 31" E 1° 50' 9") y a 10min de la iglesia donde empieza el sendero. Para pernoctar tened en cuenta que hay cierta inclinación. En coche se puede llegar hasta la iglésia y aparcar allí (espacio para 3-4 coches.

...

#termas #termasnaturales #bañossalvajes #aguassulfurosas #france #francenature #francia #pirineos #pirineofrances #pyrenees #relaxtime #familyrelax #lifestyle #life #liveoutdoors #outdooradventures #outdoorbath #banysdebosc #termes #familiasviajando #viatgersdc #catalunya_viatjers #catalanspelmon #viajaresvivir

#takemeback

#traveladdict #midipyrenees

Paralyzed

In the past there has been the odd reference to the hot springs of Jafre, (Catalunya, northeastern Spain) on this blog. It's / it was always unclear whether or not it's still open.

thus, passing through the neigbourhood, a small detour was called for.

Jafre is a small sleepy village in the Baix Empordà area of northeastern Catalunya. Looks may decieve, but it seems it's claim to fame are very few.

Technically, the reference of this hot spring to this village is incorrect, as the source is located just over the border with neighbouring village Garrigoles, but a large forest and hilly area inbetween ensures the source is much closer to Jafre village. And more accissible from Jafre.

Looking into some history of the source, it is in fact not a natural source, but a by-product of oil explorating activities. 

The Catalan Wikipedia page dedicated to Pou del petroli (=Oil well):

'The oil well or Bassa de Jafre is a thermal water well in the term of Garrigoles, although the easiest access is through Jafre and this is where one of its names comes from. The origin of the well is the drilling of an oil exploration that in 1962 reached a depth of 2000 m but instead of oil it found sulphurous waters that flowed at about 60 degrees. Even though it was covered, the water pressure caused the well to spring up forming a pool of hot water that the people of the area used as thermal baths. 

In 2003 the water was declared as mineral medicinal and of public utility, and in 2005 a spa and hotel complex was built around it that intended to exploit the spring and channeled the water, but in 2008 the works were paralyzed by the crisis with most of the buildings already built and after a decade they were still waiting to be resumed. 

A local dedicated website, published 2005 and translated:

'Although it belongs to the neighboring municipality of Garrigoles, the hot water well or "oil well" is one of the most well-known and visited places and has spread the town's name around the country. This well was opened in the mid-sixties by the Italian company SIPSA, which was looking for oil on the Can Quintana estate. When they reached a depth of nearly 1000 meters they found hot and sulphurous water, although they proceeded to plug the outlet, the pressure repeatedly crumbled the plug. Very soon the place began to be frequented by people from all over the country and by many foreigners in summer, attracted by the properties of a water that benefits those with bone diseases, such as osteoarthritis or decalcification. This popular "spa" is simply the hole where the base of the surveying machine sat. It is 2x3 meters, and is used as a small swimming pool. The reputation of the waters prompted the Generalitat to build a new well, a short distance from the previous one, but within the district of Jafre, with a significant flow of water (100 m³ per hour) that had a temperature of 50º C. After an attempt to use the facilities for the cultivation of algae for medicinal purposes, the company that owns the place plans to build a spa with complementary facilities'.

kpacn (2017):

#relax #keepcalm #gd #friends #aiguestermals #jafre #birreo #risas #lempordà

A more recent posting (2017; same as date of photo above) on wikiloc refers to a number of relevant issues. Translated:

'Despite being in the area of ​​Garrigoles, some call it Jafre pond, but for the people of Prodalia, who knew its origin, it has always been the Petrol Well.

It all started when in 1962 a Catalan company of oil prospectors called SIPSA began drilling up to 2,000 meters deep.

...

The hole where the machine sat was plugged, but the pressure stubbornly popped the plug, so it became a sort of makeshift public spa of hot water with medicinal properties. A Jacuzzi avant la lettre. The water, like now, came out at a temperature of almost 60 degrees and the vapors surrounded the place giving it a fairy tale halo. It soon began to be visited by people from all over the country and by many foreigners, attracted by the properties of the water, which benefited those with bone diseases, such as osteoarthritis or decalcification, although it had to be careful not to spend too much time in the water so as not to lose your senses.

...

But an urban planning project to build a thermal center ended with the Pou del Petroli, remaining in oblivion.

But the pool springs up again. A recent leak [we're talking about 2017] in the catchment well that channels the water to the future thermal complex, no one knows whether it was accidental or premeditated, has led to a rebirth of the Jafre pond in a new location. A resident of the area has taken advantage of the hot water that runs along the side of a road to reproduce the old pond in a curious and meritorious exercise of poor architecture. The City Council has already warned that the days of this new pool are numbered, because it poses a health problem and does not have any authorization'.

Recent comments on the above are even more up to date:

almalilalibre (14 Nov. 2023)

Marcolic. Author. On behalf of the Jafre association that is fighting for this space to be public one day. (Right now it is private property) We ask you to delete this route. Right now we are in the middle of a conflict. And there are more and more problems with tourists who come from all over. And until this is resolved we do not want any more problems with the police.

Albett thai (28 Mar. 2024)

It is not advisable to go there, the police are constantly passing by and issuing fines, whether you are parked with a van or entering the hot springs, which are private'.

Ara.cat notes (from 30 Mar. 2017) virtually the same.

Could this be the source of (new found) worry:

PATTET FITER

AQUESTES SON LES TERMES DE JAFRE 47º

Also from this translation from 2017, it seems that the waters were to head elsewhere (to the above?):

'In 1991, the well was sealed with concrete, in compliance with the regulations that require aquifers that are not legally used to be closed. But the thermal water gushed out again and so did the public.

In 2000, the promoter Prestige Hotels of Josep Moyano, owner of several hotels in Roses and Barcelona, ​​showed interest in building a luxury spa in association with the Asian hotel group Six Senses. He bought land there, planned to invest 30 million euros and open it in 2007 as a European reference center for high-end tourism, with a hundred direct jobs, which was like saying half village of Jafre.

The real estate project was cut by the Urban Planning Commission of Girona. The construction started nevertheless. Today it is a ghost town of half-built buildings, degraded, without doors or windows. The developer entered bankruptcy with a debt of 48 million euros. The abandoned complex would be acquired at auction in 2013 for 9.5 million euros. It is now 44% owned by Banc Popular, 38% by Banco de Sabadell and 18% by the Institut Català de Finances. Together they didn't know what to do with it.

The spontaneous spring of thermal water returns has been covered since last August by the municipal services, to avoid public health problems. Another more practical way to avoid them would have been to enable a minimal access structure, as they have done in the outdoor thermal baths in the small municipality of Dorres, in Northern Cerdany (France), with parking for the cars, changing rooms, pavement, railings, for a price of €5 per entry'.

And our experience? 

Well we headed out to the fields, lots of birdlife btw. A walk through the forest and found the original source (below). Dry. Very much so. Nothing else.