Chill

Soaking sheep
There aren't many hot soaks that are as picturesque as that of Hrunalaug, Iceland. 

I've seen references (Snaeland & Sigurbjörnsdóttir, 2010) in which it was suggested that the hot spring of Hrunalaug may be originally intended as a sheep dip.

However since long discontinued (hopefully), the sheep troughs are now delightful hot springs. Whether there is no need for dips anymore or whether there are no sheep, the older structure now functions as a the changing shed, for the attached hot spring. This tub can hold about 3 persons (see below). 

Behind the shed is a larger and also hotter spring which is half carved out of the hillside. This tub can hold a lot more persons, I've seen photo's with nearly 10 persons crammed in here, but that does seem to be the upper limit.
Temperatures of both hot springs are said to be a delightful 37-38 C [1].

Whipped around
This being early March though, winds are whipping around the grassy hills that surround the village of Flúðir. 

Before or after this village, one can take a turn eastwards, onto gravel roads that loop to meet near the 19th century church of Hruni (source). 

Pass this church, then turn right (there's a small sign directing to Solheimar). This is before the gravel road heads up in the hills. 
Down this straight road for 300m and there's a small car park with a no-camping sign, on your left, just after a cattle grid / fence (see below).

Park here, cross the hillock on foot, the hillock providing some protection from the howling winds.

Out of the wind you will see the small shed with grass on the roof, with a pool in front. This shed can be used for changing, essentially keeping you clothes dry and keeping yourself out of the wind. At the southern end one can jump in the small pool but on a cold day as today, the slightly hotter pool carved in the hill at the back is the better choice.

On my visit, the waters were delicious, considering the near zero temperature outside temperature, a massive wind-chill factor and the need to walk bare-foot on iced snow to get to the hot spring behind the changing shed. 

Enjoying this hot spring just meters away from the shed, a soak lasts long in these conditions. 
Consider the choice: stay longer or get out walk through the cold to your now cold clothes? So I stay longer ....

Take-off?

Hrunalaug is easily rated as one of Iceland's best (source). The article adds:

'The little hut is convenient to change your clothes in (or well, just take them off - most people just bathe naked since there is no-one around you!), especially at winter time'.

Probably your best source of information especially concerning  the directions  (but don't worry, it's not so difficult) is an excellent photo blog which can be found at getoffthebeatenpath.

Interesting side stories include the more recent past of Hrunalaug hot spring. This website offers information (in Icelandic) that the spring has had it's ebbs and flows. Apparently after the Hekla volcano eruption of 1980 the spring flow stopped. Slowly the spring reappeared but colder. Only in 2000 after an earthquake the temperature and flow re-established itself.

Another interesting point is that it's also used for Baptism (source)!

Less encouraging is that I have seen that in times past the place has become a drop-off point on the party scene. I can certainly imagine the charm of a night time soak, howver the discussion on a German language forum, noticed that the revellers were less keen, the morning after in clearing their rubbish ... Hopefully,  such habits won't last ...

Here's a youtube impression of Hrunulaug:

 

Tourist trail
A soak in Hrunalaug is easily to combine with a visit to some of Iceland's most popular tourist sights. Less than 20 km's away from Flúðir one can visit both the Gullfoss waterfall as well as the mother of all geysers: Geysir. 

Gullfoss is a essentially a lot of water dropping 30m into a crevice over a 2 km wide drop. In winter, the waterfall is winter wonderland (see below).

Geysir is the site of what would be the original geyser, one of the very few Icelandic words that have made into the English language. Through the ages Geysir has had it's ups and downs, literally. However recent eruptions are infrequent, partially as the workings have become victim to tourist vandalism. Not to worry too much as just besides Geysir is Strokkur geyser which erupts 10-30m every few minutes (see below).

On a final note, Iceland is known for it's freedom to roam policy. When visiting the two above expect that entrance fees may well be required as this philosophy seems to be crumbling as the ever increasing influx of visitors is requiring more and more efforts to manage; therefore the need for cash. 
Looking further let's hope that tourist numbers will not spoil such great places as Hrunalaug!

Note:
Snaeland, J.G. & Þ. Sigurbjörnsdóttir (2010) Thermal pools in Iceland. Skrudda, Reykjavik, Iceland

White-out

Gem hunting

Few soaks come better than those in the hinterland of Hveragerði.

The village of Hveragerði, which is located 45 km's due west of Iceland's capital of Reykjavik, is a minor hot spot in it's own rights. Those just passing by on Highway 1 can notice the greenhouses all running on geothermals, while on the river which flows north of the village, one sees quite a bit of steam rising.

The local website tries to entice more of those passing by to stop:

'Without doubt, Hveragerði´s, most precious gem is it´s geothermal park'.

The park has it's own Facebook page. 
Especially during summer, the village highlights it's geothermal background, there's even a geothermal oven to bake bread! It's good to see that the inhabitants take pride in their village and it's geothermalism.

However, despite Hveragerði having it's own hot swimming pool, those tourists with non-fixed programmes can seek the hills yonder. 

Guidance

Alternatively the area where I am heading is named as Reykjadalur (which means steamy or smokey valley), Hengill (after the volcano), Klambragil (one of the springs) or Rjúpnabrekkur, probablt the most accessible site. The former is explained:

' ... named so because of the winter population of ptarmigans in the area'.

With the possibility of mixing these up, let me start at the trail to Reykjadalur valley, the starting point which may or may not be called Rjúpnabrekkur. To get here, from the main highway one turns into the village itself and takes a left once the main drag has come to an end. 

Looking back at the car park

Then follow the river (named Varma), the asphalt surface runs out where a loop around grassland one comes to a parking spot near a bridge over the now much smaller river. 

Beyond the bridge crossing the river, are a number of hot springs, though it's not here that tourists are heading. Instead avid soakers zig-zag through the springs up the steep hill.

Note though that Throb of LA Swimming also mentions there are some hot soakable springs near the parking lot. Other mentions are made of luke-warm springs.

This way up

Beyond the steep ridge, more ridges are to be traversed but after a good half an hour hike, the path rejoins the river once more. That's not before a couple of great vista's have come and gone: behind one, out towards the ocean or of the valley itself with a rather big waterfall.

Once back near the stream itself, there are a number of hot springs, on the west bank, it's very evident by the steam. One can bypass these boiling hot pots including a few muddy ones. If into mud take a sample to use once cooled down!

This is easy soaking territory. You predecessors have already enhanced the soaking opportunities with the construction of small dams, making small pools up to half a meter deep.

Small world

My visit was on an eery snow laden day. The track up was do-able, but once beyond the ridges, the track was barely visible under the snow. And out to sea more snow threatened. So taking the trail up, soaking and heading back down it was all done in a rush.

Despite the adverse weather conditions, there were still a few other soakers in Reykjadalur. 

All that was needed to make a great soak, was to make a choice of pool: your predecessors have constructed small dams making 30-50 cm deep pools. Helped on by differing temperatures, one could take a soak in the white landscape.

Despite the lack of gawkers, todays dress code was well-dressed? 

If one continues onwards, a left turn brings one to the hot spring of Klambragil. Further up the valley a shelter used to exist, while the other valleys nearby also have their own springs, not sure what their soaking qualities are though.

In summer many tour companies organize activities in the hills above the village: cycling, hiking, horse-riding. Naturally all expecting to finish with a soak!

Otherwise

There's plenty of info on Reykjadalur and the other hot springs nearby, fear not. For instance Gonguferdir.net has a couple of photo's plus a link to a walking track, great to download on your mobile whatever electronic device: if need be, you can seek advice.

Other good resources (and reads) are besides already mentioned Throb's trip account are those from Unlocking Kiki and alavigne which describes a good and entertaining entry on a hot spring hunt. 

Note that Reykjadalur is rated as one of Iceland's best soaking sites (source).

Finally, in Snaeland & Sigurbjörnsdóttir's Icelandic soaking bible, the authors have separate chapters on Klambragil and Rjúpnabrekkur / Varma. 
They describe ways of getting to both (they note an alternative way from the Hellisheiði power station) and have pointers on temperature; in Klambragil these of course they can vary, while at Rjúpnabrekkur temperatures are a little low, 33C.

Note:
Snaeland, J.G. & Þ. Sigurbjörnsdóttir (2010) Thermal pools in Iceland. Skrudda, Reykjavik, Iceland