Crowning

xusdelacruz at Caldes de Montbui (Catalunya):

Ahir una de freda , avui una de calenta.#elsafareig #aiguestermals

Let's look in more depth at what some of the official and unofficial press have been printing / publishing in the last couple of months concerning Europe's soaks and soaking culture.

And it's the latter we delve into first. 
Closely tied with the soaking culture in free and wild hot springs is the sauna culture of a larger part of northern / northwestern Europe; even though it's exemplified by the ever-increasing size of what are becoming sauna amusement parks what seems to be at odds to this very sauna culture itself ...

Anyway, it starts off innocently enough with yet again another article of culture shock. In this somewhat older article (Sep. 18, 2017) on Germany's sauna culture, a US journalist visits a sauna in Berlin. The concluding remarks of the very readable article:

'Everyone headed to the shower. When I dried off, my skin smelled like eucalyptus and baby oil. In my blissed out, post-Aufguss state, my hang-ups about nudity seemed overblown.
Nobody at Liquidrom was there to judge me, nor was I at Liquidrom to judge anyone else. Everyone was there for the same reason: to relax. And, in the end, I was able to relax too'.

So not such a bad experience overall.

Then I share you with the news from Wiesbaden (Germany) with it's eloquent Kaiser-Friedriche (KF) therme, which has natural thermal waters on offer. Or not?

I was hoping to head there end of last year-ish, but recent reviews on Tripadvisor painted a bleak picture. Lots of one and two star reviews such as this:

'Als langjähriger Stammgast habe ich lange ein Auge zugedrückt, aber die letzten Wochen sind wirklich der negative Höhepunkt einer Serie von Pleiten, Pech und Pannen.

Nachdem immer wieder einzelne technische Schwierigkeiten über die letzten 3 Jahre auftauchten ist nun seit Wochen die Hauptattraktion defekt: alle (!) 3 Thermalwasserbecken sind nicht nutzbar, was für eine Therme eine Lachnummer ist.

Heute erlebte ich dann noch einen Schaden am Dampfbad (der immerhin wieder nach 30 min behoben war), einen verdreckten Boden der großen Sammelumkleide und einen Stoffel von Bademeister, der grußlos und muffig das Peeling-Salz verteilte.

Die Krönung allerdings war die vollmundige Ankündigung, ab dem 2.1.20 donnerstags Textilbaden anzubieten. Die neue Prüderie ist also in Wiesbaden angekommen, nur frage ich mich, was die Leute dann ohne funktionierende Thermalbecken mit ihren Badehosen machen sollen: das Saunaholz durchweichen?

Es ist leider insgesamt ein schlechter Scherz für Stammgäste (die die letzten Wochen kaum noch kommen) und Touristen, schade!'

I sincerely hope you can read German, but basically the complaint concerns the unavailability of thermal pools, the overall poor management, but especially the announcement that clothing will be allowed on Thursdays.
True? If you look closely on the KF website you'll find this notice:

'Currently, both thermal seating pools (37°C and 39°C) and the wild pool (42°C) are not available due to a technical defect'.

It basically means that all soaking facilities are out of order! A visit means you'll just have the KF sauna and steam rooms on hand, no soaking. Prices though have dropped, I believe. 

So I skipped my wished visit, let's hope things improve soon!

Anyway as in the above review, there were quite a few complaints concerning KF therme in similar vein: the introduction of special days where the sauna culture of nakedness is ditched, is the beginning of the end.

It's not only in Germany that this fade is catching on, also in the Netherlands and Belgium, the new and extensive sauna paradises are willing to dress up to entice a new breed of sauna-lovers (those with hidden fears?) so as to improve the bottom line of the investors of these entities. Rather than maintain the traditional sauna culture.

A Dutch news website, nu.nl (Dec. 4, 2019) looks at the pro's and cons of dressing up for a sauna run.

A synopsis: allowing costumes means larger wellness resorts can entice more potential visitors, especially a younger clientèle who might just start a lifetime love affair for sauna and embrace the more traditional sauna culture.
Many commentators to the article abhor this dressing up: to sauna is to sweat. Bathers capture the sweat meaning less hygienic and less sweating / cooling down abilities.
However there isn't any scientific base for this (or is it too logical?) retort the clothes lovers. 

Other reactions:

- clothed sauna days are more raucous (so much for the new attuned clientèle),

- bathers are not meant for high temperature sauna's.

Elsewhere, I know that some sauna palaces have reversed these new policies, apparently allowing everybody to be dressed means an open invitation for voyeurs even though everybody is clothed!

The amount of reactions (>130) to this article just shows how passionate the debate is. On both sides.

I myself take my sauna's mostly in Belgium, where public sauna's are mostly geared to the naked. Just the other week I went to a new-for-me establishment when there was a dress-if-you-wish-day. Typically, management said, roughly 20% will be clothed, though those dressed will often strip during the day it was said. On this particular occasion I actually didn't see a swimsuit at all, fyi.

Anyway, I thought, is there really no scientific research on sauna culture?

So I stumbled on Wanderingcarol, who has a recent primer (Dec. 31, 2019) on German sauna culture, a very lengthy, informative and entertaining article: 

'I was going to learn every German sauna rule there was, not just the basics like ‘yes, German coed saunas are nude’ but also the nuances and intricacies the average North American couldn’t be expected to know.
I was going to become a sauna ninja.
...
Why You Can’t Wear a Bathing Suit in a German Sauna
* Bathing suits hamper circulation, and saunas are supposed to stimulate circulation.
* Bathing suits are filthy germ-ridden things, and you don’t want bacteria in a sauna. (I don’t actually understand why they’re more germ-ridden than the naked private bits held within them, but who am I to make the rules?)
* As you sweat, the water evaporates off your body. This cools you down and helps control your body temperature so that you don’t overheat and shrivel up into a crisp. Sweat can’t evaporate under a bathing suit.
* If you are wearing a swim suit in a sauna it makes all the nude sauna goers around you uncomfortable'.

kimieabreak

The baths in Budapest were a bit to "public pool" for me when it comes to winding down and relaxing💆🏼now #saunaculture In #germany is more my speed. There's Nothing between you and a zenfull afternoon👀 sitting in a #steamroom buck naked and swimming around pristine pools with fleshy strangers becomes very natural pretty quickly when you realize that NO one is looking, being weird, or sneaking off to perverted corners #usa ❕🌅this photo in itself was a great story...There was the most stunning sun setting through the woods across the lake that I just had to capture. But as the sun was quickly sinking I was waiting for the room to empty as to respect people's privacy. One gentleman seemed to be in it for the long haul so before it got too dark I ran out to grab my phone, came back in, and in broken Germlish tried to explain that if he didn't mind I'd love to grab a photo of the sunset-not him-but the sun, we got lost in translation and he offered to shoot a photo of ME watching the sun 😂#selfie "for you not for me" he was holding My phone so the photos obviously weren't going anywhere and we both laughed as he took the shot. We smiled, and enjoyed the rest of the sunset. THIS was such an attractive human moment. I left feeling #relaxed #rejuvenated and a bit more glowy ................ 🖼 #germany #europe #naked #sauna #happygirl #beinghuman #aunatural #itsjustskin #freethenipple #deutschland

More bits on how to dress for a sauna vìs-a-vìs research.
Dutch newspaper the Telegraaf (Jan. 4, 2016) explains in facts and fables on sauna. Translated:

'[no.] 3: Naked or with swimwear in the sauna, makes no difference in operation.
Fable .
Naked in a sauna is more hygienic. The sweat that you lose remains in your swimwear. You can also cool down less well with swimwear on, and this is very important. So get out of clothes quickly!'

Gabrielle Reason (Oct. 30, 2019) has an extensive research on sauna culture with lots of facts:

'It seems the Germans are the only culture to have such an openly and widely embraced attitude towards nudity, and they’re probably all better off because of it. Research indicates that spending more time in the buff with other naked folk has a positive impact on mental wellbeing, by reducing dissatisfaction with our own body. This is because they’re exposed to a whole host of imperfect bodies, and also receive nice compliments on their own. It’s even being explored as a therapy to overcome body dysmorphia ...'.

So no, it doesn't look like there's scientific research backing sauna nudity. But then again, it seems so logical ...

Skins

Back on topic. Let's look more at what's trendy and /or trending.
Discover.is (Jan. 15) has 9 of Iceland's best hot springs on offer:

'Hot springs in Iceland are proven to be an effective way to straighten out your muscles after a long chilly day. Moreover, the warming sensation helps to relieve stress and tiredness, hence, it is perfect to acquire relaxation. Iceland is popularly known for its hot springs, which can be found either in the middle of the road or inside famous spas. These naturally occurred hot springs in Iceland are geothermally heated to provide hot bath to tourists'. 

Similar, acanela (Feb. 3) shares must see hot springs on Iceland. Note, seeing isn't soaking.

'Iceland’s world-famous hot springs are unquestionably something to add to your bucket list'.

adorably.naked

#Icelandicwinter on the beach? It was perfect weather for #hotsprings. A few years ago we met 📸: @icelandic.naturist and spent a perfect midwinter afternoon naked in #Iceland with new friends. #northernlights

The Reykjavik Grapevine offers a tour to the new Húsafell Canyon Baths. There's also an article (Jan. 20) concerning the attraction:

'There are three baths to choose from in the Húsafell canyon. Urð (Earth) is the warmest, at roughly 41° Celsius, while Hringur (ring), modelled after Snorri Sturluson’s own secret hot tub in Reykholt, is 10º cooler. Down a flagstone path is a nameless bath, which is the coldest of the three and, on a day like my wife and I experienced, is clearly reserved for those who wish to assert their dominance and prove their insanity.
All three were constructed using methods dating back to the 10th century, and the entire site was made from locally sourced, natural materials. Stone from the canyon floor was used to construct the pools. The changing rooms were built using salvaged timber from old telephone poles. Even the hooks on the walls and the goatskins on the benches in the changing rooms were sourced from local farms. The entire setup was put together with the goal of preserving the integrity of the canyon while also allowing discerning adventurers to take in a magnificent view'.

Travpr (Dec. 11, 2019) adds:

'Husafell Canyon Baths is a new wellness destination located at the edge of Iceland’s western highlands less than two hours from Reykjavik. Nestled at the base of Hringsgil Canyon, the sustainably built facilities include three traditional geothermal pools 30-41°C (86-105°F), an icy glacial stream 10°C (50°F), and an outdoor changing bathhouse with rinse-off shower. The remote nature baths are accessed on a short nature hike offered from Husafell including spectacular sites like Langifoss waterfall and the now extinct Okjokull glacier. Open year round, Husafell Canyon Baths appeal to wellness visitors and nature lovers seeking an authentic Icelandic spa experience in a spectacular, off-the-grid landscape'.  

Liberé

A new find? Translated from vivereoutdoor (Aug. 3):

'In Acquasanta Terme, just 20 km from Ascoli Piceno, there is a small but wonderful corner of paradise called "Lu Vurghe". 

It basically is a restored Roman path which also leads to / past a hot spring.

It's certainly sulphuric in origin, how hot? Management informed me: 28 °C ...

vale_neji at Lu Vurghe:

Trovarsi a metà strada per noi è diventato questo.. 😌❤️#weekend #insieme #terme #acquasantaterme #discover #marche #regionemarche #luvurghe #newplaces

Oh btw, we're now in Italy.
Travelconnectexperience has a guide (Jan. 9) to Saturnia hot springs (Toscane):

'There’s a chance that you are disappointed if you visit here expecting to have a secluded thermal bath. Instead, your trip to Saturnia might result in a communal experience. This won’t take away any of the uniqueness and beauty of the “Cascate del Mulino,” as locals call it.

All-in-all a good guide to soak.

The same source (Dec. 9, 2019) has another primer on other hot springs, notably around Viterbo and closer to Roma (Lazio):

'Italy is definitely a thermal destination for hot spring lovers, but you need to research a bit to find out the thermal baths which would best suit your travel plans'.

sea_raki_and_rebetiko at Carletti pools, Viterbo:

Paradise smells like rotten eggs.#italy #italia #hotsprings #termelibre #thermesnaturelles #nature #vanlife #sundaymorning #workandtravel #sulfursprings #sulfur

The Guardian (Jan. 23) has an overview of yoga-sauna-spa hotels in Europe:

'Winning tip: Opera and thermal baths, Italy
Listening to Puccini and other Italian opera classics while sparkling stars lit the night skies was just the tonic I needed last summer. I stumbled on the lovely resort of Salsomaggiore Terme, when I was driving around the verdant hills of Emilia-Romagna. I thought I might stay a day to enjoy the thermal waters – but ended up staying a week. The town is full of natural water fountains, belle époque buildings, peaceful cafes and eateries. The elegant Grand Hotel (doubles from €120 B&B), where I stayed, offered open-air tai chi classes in the gardens, and all kinds of mud and relaxation treatments are available at most hotels in the town.
Nigel

Ebookers has an article (Jan. 7) on hidden hot springs in Italy, seven soaks, some commercial, none though hidden.

sir_bloody_pix at Caronte termi:

Ancora mille viaggi, avventure e sogni da realizzare insieme ❤️Temperatura esterna 5º@sapienza_martina#nature #naturephotography #style #travel #world #natura #naturalbeauty #terme #termenaturali #termecaronte #mylove #mylife #mybeautifullgirl #unavitainvacanza

Rust to Road

From Rust to Road trip have been seeking soaking alternatives in wintery Europe, less popular. 
From their tumblr account, a report (Jan. 9) from northern Macedonia:

'We climbed up to a ledge overlooking the valley where sat a small, silty pool of perfectly steaming water, fed by a tiny trickling stream. Beneath the weathered limestone, dug into the face of the wall, was a small squareish hole with a glimmer of blue water at its foot.⁣
Steam billowed out as thick and dense as the low clouds which clung to the surrounding mountains, clearing for a moment to allow us to see the back of the cave disappearing into blackness.⁣
We quickly stripped off and sunk into the hot water and the inky depths, trusting our bodies to the unknown within, but once our eyes had adjusted to the darkness the full beauty of the cave was revealed.⁣
It was big enough to hold ten, maybe twelve people, with a jagged rocky ceiling and smooth, textured walls.
We lit a couple of candles, melted the wax slightly and stuck them to the walls, then lay back to admire the natural wonder we were in with the relaxing sounds of water dripping from the stalactites above and the distant echoes of the Call to Prayer.⁣
This was the fiery, steaming heart of the earth where we sat enclosed by cliffs while the magma-heated waters from below the ground bubbled up. The pool was 40°C, the perfect temperature to sustain an hours-long bathing session, while we chatted to elderly locals in half-English and soaked the day away.

We felt truly privileged to be here, soaking in our second hot spring in just as many days. There were very few in North Macedonia, but we’d managed to sniff them out, and it wasn’t hard when they smelled as pungent as this one.⁣

Along with the sulphurous fumes a noxious gas was spurting from the pipeline that fed the pool; enough to make you light-headed. The water erupted with a deep gurgling sound as the earth spewed hot water at just the perfect temperature for bathing.⁣ (source)

Then a couple of months ago they posted a vdo on a hot spring near Bormio, northern Italy:

An experience related in this post (Dec. 30) when they were in Serbia: 

'The swirling thermal waters alternated between hot and cold as they washed thinly over the surface of our bodies, while the curious villagers looked on, smiled and waved as they passed.⁣
We’d come to Lukovska Banja in search of a hot spring, and what we’d stumbled upon was an entire thermal park. Water spurted from springs at temperatures varying from ice cold to well over 70°C, throwing clouds of steam up into the crisp valley air'.⁣

Clocked
More articles / references, but from a variety of European nations:

Outdoorito, a Polish website, ends up in Slovakia's Kalymeny (Jan. 6). Translated:

'Finally we reach the village of Kalameny. We key for a while among the narrow streets heading north. When we leave the last houses behind and after a while we see a pair of hovering high in the distance, and immediately after the cars parked on the side of the road, we know that we are already in place.
We are lucky, there are only 3 people in the lake. We cross the bridge and choose one of the benches nearby to leave our clothes. One by one we enter the water. It's not hot, the way I like it best, but it's warm enough that it won't be cold with this few-degree weather around. With the whole body submerged, you can sit in the lake as long as you like. We are surrounded by a forest. A wooden clock with hands was hung on one of the trees. All in all a fun theme in this somewhat wild atmosphere.
...
The only negative was the overfilled bin and some rubbish falling around. As part of the payment for the bath, I recommend taking a trash bag with you and picking up a few pieces lying around. There are few such natural pearls, so it's worth taking care of.

Lesser news. 

Ideal.es (Nov. 23, 2019) reports on an Italian murdering a Spanish during a brawl at the Santa Fé hot springs. Thanks for the tip-off of this.

negrainsumisa at Santa Fé:

Las xanas

National Geographic visits (Apr. 18, 2018) Georgia's former Soviet-style spa's:

'In the 1920s, Tskaltubo was a thriving spa town with an exclusively Soviet clientele. Citizens would flock here as part of a state-funded health program on sanctioned vacations meant to reenergize them while they contemplated socialist ideals. If the workers were healthy, as the theory went, the workforce would be healthy and thus more productive to support the regime.
Although many of the buildings are abandoned and falling apart, sections of the spa complex are still in use as a resort today.
...
The state-funded program, called putevki, required citizens to take mandatory spa vacations for at least two weeks each year. Citizens would take trains to luxurious spa complexes and upon arrival, they would each get their own rooms. Doctors would prescribe them a series of rigidly scheduled treatments, including things like mandatory time for sunbathing'.

Spatoursbulgaria (!) gives us 10 reasons to visit a spa in Bulgaria (Jul. 22):

'Spa in Bulgaria is a pleasant surprise for all travellers. Do you know that Bulgaria takes second place in Europe in terms of hot springs existence?
There are over 1600 mineral springs, providing all types of mineral water existing in nature. The country is rich in hot and cold mineral water with temperatures varying from 20 °C up to 103 °C. The hottest geyser in Europe is also situated in Bulgaria – Sapareva Banya. This enormous resource of natural factors, combined with an excellent climate and contemporary hotels provides an excellent opportunity for all-year-round treatment. This makes the country one of the leading spa destinations in Europe'.

 

  bitch_who_lifts at Rupite:

What you at today Órla? Awk here, nothing much just had a wee swall in a natural mud bath ✌🏻💁🏽‍♀️🍻 #bulgaria #mudbath

A visit to the Loutra Pozar springs, northern Greece. By ivasays (Dec. 27, 2019):

'I’m really glad I decided to visit the thermal baths in Loutra Pozara, Greece, and its waterfalls. I visited in the fall, and with color changes in the leaves, the stunning view of the forest and waterfalls was absolutely magnificent.
You can give your body a day to relax and heal for all that wear and tear it goes throughout the year'.

inspiritana at Kaiafa (possibly?):

The last week I have mainly spent at wild hot springs ♨ 💦 🧡 There is nothing better than having a natural bath tub with 38°C after a tough day or the challenging yoga practise in the morning. 🙏 And you know, as a vanlifer you don't get hot tubs or showers too often! :DAs there are quite a lot of hot springs here in Greece, I have planned my route towards Turkey in accordance to the thermal springs, hehe! What a luxurious time 😍❓Have you been to any natural hot springs? Where is your favourite one?#inspiritana#vanliving #vanlife #vanlifesociety #vanlifecommunity #thisisvanlifeing #vanlifeeurope #campervanlife #vanlifers #vanlifeculture #vancrush #vandwelling #vanlifedreams #camper #roadtrip #vanlifediaries #vanlifedistrict #campervan #adventure #van #naturalparadise #paradise #hotsprings #water #natureparadise #swimming #greece #travel #traveller

Belgium 

The Guardian (Jan. 20) has an extensive article on eastern Belgium's Spa hot spring. While staying in Spa, the author notes:

'But the main attraction for us was Les Thermes de Spa (€21, child €16), a modern complex of pools sourced from the local Clementine spring and naturally heated to 33C. It’s filled with jets of water and Jacuzzis, and has an outdoor section surrounded by nature. We spent about four hours exploring the different areas of the spa, including sauna and steam rooms, relaxation rooms scented with alpine herbs, and sunloungers bathed in the warming glow of infrared light.
The connection with the surrounding natural beauty is what makes the spa so special: the complex’s huge bay windows look out on to the Wallonian countryside – even the sauna has a large window overlooking the valley'.

Though I can agree on the interesting town of Spa, I felt the local cuisine and certainly the Thermes themselves did the town no favours. It seems over on Tripadvisor and google the reviews also differ widely, maybe it's more about what one is used to.

Then again the article finishes with:

'This article contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a small commission if a reader clicks through and makes a purchase. All our journalism is independent and is in no way influenced by any advertiser or commercial initiative'. 

I have my doubts ...

A final photo to see us off?

blackmetal_cat

This is a smile of true happiness 😊 - Fontpédrouse hot springs/March ‘19Anxiety faded away, Xanax and Valium withdrawal : 5 months now 🤘...#pyrenees#pyreneesorientales#fontpedrouse#hotsprings#nature#thisismyhappyface